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| Messages 1 - 797 of total 797 in this topic |
jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2014 - 07:11pm PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2014 - 07:17pm PT
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Nov 14, 2014 - 07:26pm PT
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Dude, don't take this place so seriously...doing so will seriously take the fun out of it.
Just grow a thicker skin, and keep posting up good sh#t like this. It'll all work out.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2014 - 07:47pm PT
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thebravecowboy
climber
walking, resin-stained, towards the goal
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Nov 14, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
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hand-panned, betch
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2014 - 08:32pm PT
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I do better in life than online. Would like to get on the rock with ya some time T.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Nov 14, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
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Thanks for the effort, but it just ain't the same.
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Nov 15, 2014 - 02:09am PT
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that's it, I'm moving to Carson.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2014 - 05:56am PT
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Haven't had time to pan the concentrates yet.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Found something interesting in northern Nevada today.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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80% YER GUNNA DIE
15% hmm
4% looks ok
1% good
Basically much better than Fisher Towers
Base jumpers might like it better..dunno
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Looking for this canyon I spotted on Google Earth. See if it had any potential. Found it and it marginally does. If someone took enough time they would find a few acceptable lines. Or tons of short sport stuff.
Think I found some bighorn sign.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Climbski2 - whhaaaaaatttt?
Great thread JR.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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climbski2
WOW!
You gotta get in there and check it out, at least a couple routes.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Dec 10, 2014 - 07:05am PT
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I don't mind sharing the location. Just wondered if anyone would actually be interested. 1000 creeks gorge. About a 4 1/2 hour drive one way from Reno near the Oregon border. Along the 140.
I did walk in about a half mile. (perhaps about a 5 mile end to end hike) Seems to get hiked fairly regularly and has a nice trail.
The gorge opens at two ends (east and west) and has access at both ends by dirt road plus at least one access point easily reached by road on the south rim. I had to use the west road that starts at the campground of Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge near the headquarters by the Opal mines. The east end of the road was a bit too steep and wet from recent rain for my 2wd car.
Some of the walls are at least 700feet maybe more. Much of the gorge is deeper than it is wide, which is unusual. Unfortunately every big (complete) line I scoped out would involve some serious loose rock risk. More than I am interested in anymore. Not much in the way of smaller crack systems. Lots of old school chimney type routes if you like em. Yay for rock funnels eh?
Some pockety rock, lots of potential for short face sport routes. Perhaps long ones if into the work.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Dec 10, 2014 - 07:22am PT
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I've explored a bunch of canyons/cliff lines in SE OR and SW ID that are similar those in climbski's images. The rock is rhyolitic ash-flow tuff. He describes its climbing potential fairly well - lots of interesting fun short stuff (mostly sport) with potential for longer lines if you're willing to do a bunch of cleaning. The crack lines are typically discontinuous and associated with rock of poorer quality. Typically these areas are very hot in the summer and very cold in winter - so a few weeks climbing season in spring and fall.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Dec 13, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
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Out in the wilds of Nevada with Rick again.
Climbed up two pitches, then rapped. Going
back to finish. Hopefully jonnyrig can join us.
The corners going up to the giant roofs look
great!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Dec 13, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
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Underneath the Roofs.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Dec 15, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
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Is that part of or an offshoot of the Owyhee River? Lots and lots of interesting stuff in that river gorge spanning from Oregon into Idaho and Nevada.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2014 - 04:05pm PT
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I missed the chance to climb with you guys due to being in california. Hoping to get out with you next time. Thought I'd call you this last weekend, but ended up having to fix my truck and entertain guests. Weather wasn't much for climbing though anyway. Between all that and spending 9-10 hours a day at the new job with a commute and kids to pick up after, haven't been climbing or exploring much. And getting fat besides due to sitting behind a desk. Ugh.
Climbski2's pics look similar to a lot of nevada rock. Lots of it you gotta just walk up and lay hands on it to really be sure whether it's choss or not. Looks a lot like High Rock Canyon, and some of the stuff in the northeast by elko. Doubt I'll get much climbing in up there at new years though.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2015 - 11:43pm PT
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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This thread could go on forever. We've all walked past rock that if it were close to a road, like El Cap or Tahquitz, would be a world famous climbing destination.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Somwhere in the hills of NV...
Ok maybe just over the hill into the Mojave...
Team TIE DYE
And 'FIST' N' CHIPS'
right 'InYo Face'... right above a popular picnik area parking lot:
(long scoll to get to the route/short approach)
Fist-N-Chips
Heck... 'Save it for a rainy day' is within 15 minutes of a parking area as well...
save it for a rainy day
I love the desert... you don't have to go but 15 minutes~ 1 hr to find 'Obscure' ! :)
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2015 - 09:19am PT
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Set out to climb another obscure outcrop. I've been eyeballing this for a few years while we were out chukar hunting, but Rick and co beat me to the firs attempt. We set out to make the third attempt at the summit; but the wind convinced us this was not the day.
Bottom to top, maybe 300-400 feet. Lots of available routes. Easy approach. Quite a lot of other climbing in the area, variable approach times.
We fell back to an area with less wind and warmer temps. I forget what Rick calls it, Grunge Summit? Anyway, I like to think of it as Shotgun Alley. We made a run at bolting and cleaning up a route, ground-up style, while bullets whizzed overhead from rednecks shooting at Tannerite, with the attending occasional concussion when they'd actually hit their target. It's ok though, I had my walmart bicycle helmet.
Overall, not a bad day. And some great apple pie.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jan 19, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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Does that look like an alien, or what?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 19, 2015 - 10:37am PT
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Nice obscure stuff.....
Wild Granites anyone?
Shawn
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 19, 2015 - 11:39am PT
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Learning Trad wazz up wid dat?The laugh is more commonly : Ha ha ha! not hurr hurr hurr..
Oh wait the playfulness of my approach that you dismiss as residual damage from substance
abuse, is not to your liking. Well, I respect that, but call foul on your supposition, my faculties or more fouled by Lipotor,that I take now, than anything that I may have taken in the past.
Please take this in the spirit that it is meant, I was pointing out that some areas , zones, are word of mouth for very good reasons.
If some one having already been to a sensitive or whatever you want to call those zones, need to go on this forum may be they are venturing beyond the 'sheen of thier Steele'!
Ae turn of speech meant to drag up an image of Knights and shiny weapons as well as placing a sideways nod of acknowledgement , A Wink Wink , Nod Nod, sort of thing.
As people step out of the regular they need to be checked. Before they are tested by fire,
it helps build resolve to pursue an endeavor or in some cases, it leads to discretion, the better part of valor .
What is the slope ?'chart'? Measuring in your picture above ? Do you have something to do with Hilaroad ??
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 24, 2015 - 09:40am PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2015 - 11:27pm PT
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It was a beautiful, warm, sunny day here in Nevada. Not what you'd expect of the middle of winter. So Bob, Rick, and I headed out to the obscure crag.
Bob led us up the first pitch.
!st belay
Rick began the 2nd pitch and I continued it to the 2nd belay.
Rick led us up the 3rd pitch, where you can exit if you choose.
Climbing with a pack sucks.
At the top
But we opted for the 50+/- ft fingers/hands crack exit to the ridge line, and the relatively easy departure back to the truck.
Roughly 400 feet of obscure granite. One very fine day indeed.
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perswig
climber
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Jan 26, 2015 - 05:48am PT
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Nice rock.
Nice hip-belay.
Bring any tricams?
TFPU!
Dale
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 26, 2015 - 06:15am PT
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Very nice. WTF!? You guys seem to have pushed the envelope past 5.3d?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 06:29am PT
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Hip belays indeed, Rick and Bob both. As a courtesy to your belayer, you should sew up the route and not fall. And at the speed these guys move, it's hard to pull rope through an ATC fast enough to keep up. Inspired me to hip belay my other partner from Sacramento on a route once. He was skeptical, but I caught a fall (top-rope, naturally). 5.3d is the going grade for this stuff. Lots of other route potential out here.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jan 26, 2015 - 06:44am PT
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Looks like fun for all.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2015 - 08:06am PT
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A few more routes up this crag and then we'll post up a mini guide so the more adept can hopefully establish more of the classis crack, face and roof lines. This place is unique. Free camping far from any crowds, a relatively short all downhill approach and a relatively short all level exit.
Stats for yesterdays climb tentively named Frustration: pitch 1- 130',.5.3d, or 170' if one starts at the toe of the buttress. Pitch 2 - 160' 5.3d, belay under a large roof. Pitch 3 50', 5.3d . Pitch 4 120' 5.3d, fifty feet up a finger crack and stuff above then fourth class scrambing. Then fifty feet of fourth class scrambling to the very top and level traversing exit off.
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Jan 26, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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^^^^
Hurr hurr hurr?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
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Okay,okay, i get that your growing weary of the 5.3d schtick.
Its kind of hard putting a number grade to new routes in never before climbed areas. You are not used to the peculiarities of the rock, the passage forward uncertain, your just thinking about adequate protection and not getting stuck in a runout position with the way forward unclimbable for you. Anyway if we had to put a number to it, probably in the 5.7 to 5.9 range with good pro, but leaning and awkward in places.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
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Ratings are invariably subjective though, arent they? I agree with your assessment though, and have no doubt there are both harder and easier routes up. Would be interesting to see somebody else pull through one of those roofs. The pack i think made the awkwardness most apparent, but still fun, and sure beat the hell out of going back to the base for shoes jackets etc. There are shorter single pitch climbs in the area as well.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
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Here is another obscurity for you. 1000' tall, 500' of slab topped by a 500' headwall, all appears glacially polished.
And down canyon from the above is crack city, 350'+ I estimate.
Too many good crags out there.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Jan 26, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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Stay away!!! You might get stickers in your socks!!!
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Jan 26, 2015 - 07:02pm PT
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When are you guys going to be on Ellen's show?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2015 - 07:15pm PT
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Yes W.L., Nevadastan.
No Ellen, we're holding out for Jon Stewart.
Or chased off by Buzzworms, Fuzzy.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Jan 27, 2015 - 01:46am PT
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Cool to see what you guys are climbing out there. I ran across some obscure cliffs recently. Pretty freakin' remote though.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 30, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
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Going on a recon of the next route up there tomorrow. My wife will be belaying and since she refuses to rappel or get more than one pitch off the ground it will be just a tentative exploration. All help is appreciated Ron. And Tad, if you like well protected moderates on great rock the route we did last weekend is for you.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 08:24pm PT
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Don't forget the extra R for SNORRT (Senior Nevada Obscure Rock Recon Team). Not sure I quite qualify as a senior yet, but I'm sure crabby enough.
I'd climb with ya any time, Tad. Ron, nice to see ya around. Got a new 223 to sight in some time.
I would like to join you Rick, as you know we were supposed to go to Sacramento this weekend, but both the kids have been throwing up for three days, and I think I'd be in serious trouble if I left Brenda alone with them tomorrow. Your wife might enjoy one of those little short walls too, and the one Brenda and I did has a pretty easy walk off with a little scrambling there and has fair anchors at the top.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2015 - 09:26am PT
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Laptop died and I had to fix it. Ran across some old pictures, not sure I even remember where these are. Guess I need to get out and find them!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 13, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
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Great day out in the NV wilds on "Exploratory Surgery Crag". Route follows cracks and face near left hand skyline. Three pitches 1) 100' 5.5 . 2) 125' 5.9 ends on a perfectly flat golden ledge on the prow of the butress. 3).140' 5.7 follows a perfect right leaning finger crack 50' to the top of "Aguille du Mini", then lowers off the backside to a notch and 80' fourth class romp to the very summit.
Bob leading pitch 2.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2015 - 11:13pm PT
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Nice. I thought you might be tempted to get on that pile. Good name too. Looks like a beautiful day to get out, vs stuck in the office like me. Maybe later this weekend?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2015 - 08:54am PT
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It's not a pile JR. There are at least a dozen quality routes on this formation, though as usual most are beyond my age diminished abilitity. You probably have monday off for presidents day? That would be a good day, weather permitting. Pic of the start of pitch three.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2015 - 08:56am PT
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Heh, that was tongue-in-cheek! Looks like a lot of fun. I'll talk to the better half and see if she'll let me out.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2015 - 09:19am PT
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From the top of the crag I was spying additional road access that opens up another multi mile section of formation studded ridge to easy approach access. Beginning to think this area will exceed, Donner, Woodfords, or even rival the Leap and hwy 50 corridor as a source of a high quantity and quality climbing within easy reach of the greater Reno/Tahoe/Carson area climbers.another pic taken by Bob that shows the unusually perfect mid winter climbing conditions.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 14, 2015 - 11:36am PT
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Very cool stuff guys... You sure know how to get a guys blood pumping for NV obscurities... Exceeding Donner or Woodfords??? Ridiculously bold, but I like it...
Here's some armchair research to keep in the spirit, looks abundant and large.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 14, 2015 - 11:52am PT
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Been paging through this string looking for some info on the big cave west of Ely above 6/50. Heard about some stuff being done out there in the 5.13 range.
Routes? Pics?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 14, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
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thats about 10 grades over our level.. sorry.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2015 - 12:45pm PT
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Good one Derek!
I thought the comparison with other Tahoe area classic locations would wet some appetites. I believe its quite true though. A few more routes in the bag and we'll post some detailed info on location, access, approaches, free camping, amenities (ha ha )" etc.
Bruce, plenty of projects there in the upper ranges.
Footloose-you out there and still climbing ? Maybe you'd be interested in some new route development?
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 14, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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Patiently awaiting gps cords... Looks like 'Wild Granite' type formations, It's not that far away from civilization (ie reno tahoe) is it? (see how i did that there? trying to get you to spill some general location info?) so slick i am...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2015 - 05:07pm PT
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Ron, there are at least 3 formations that look remarkably similar. Two next to each other and another sixty miles away. Haven't seen any sign of Alvin, or anyone else, at these crags.
T?3- you'll have to wait at least another month. Got to get in another few licks before we have competition. I promise you northern nevada guys are going to love the ease of accessibility and the shear quantity of quality routes in need of first ascents.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2015 - 05:34pm PT
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We would have more routes done out there if not for kids and work. Those with stout 4x4's could even explore beyond what we've found. We'll get there, no doubt.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 14, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
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Rick and Jonnyrig, you're bigger men than me if you're already tossing the idea around of spilling the beans! If you truly found something as spectacular as reported, complete with a small hike, decent road access,AND it's totally undeveloped, AND it's reasonably close to the Reno/Tahoe area... I say keep it to yourselves!
haha, let us dumb-dumbs wonder about "what might be" out there from our desks and armchairs. Congrats on the find guys.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2015 - 06:59pm PT
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I don't think I'll ever boulder again Ron. Exactly for the reason you described. Hell, im not ever going to get up anything difficult again, so save the body for a few routes that might actually matter. No Guide, more like help yourself instructions to great new routing in the wilds without regulations, fees, crowds .
T? 3. We've found four areas in four seperate ranges now with vast potential for development. We are just concentrating on one before we post up the details. I've been accused over on the Climate thread of not contributing anything positive to the ST virtual campfire. I think this pending release will more than dispel that notion.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2015 - 08:03pm PT
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Ron, gotta get my RV ready for sale. Never use the thing anymore and it sits in the yard like a sore thumb.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 14, 2015 - 08:08pm PT
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Ron, I agree wholeheartedly: Nevada has a "last frontier" feel to it... but quality abundance near civilization?!?!?... that definitely has my ears perked...
I can't dispute the testament of Jonnyrig posting endless pics of desert choss (and quality) in previous threads... The guy has more 1st hand commitment than my "Google Earth Scan's" will ever have... this much is certainly true.
Either way, I am stumped... Even with the awesome power of Google Earth. Hence the props.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Feb 14, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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I know I haven't contributed to this thread but I love it! Thanks everyone on here.
Now if I can just convince my wife that our next trip should be to Nevada...
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
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I think Rick is out exploring more than i am these days, and has found bigger, better rock. There are some we,ve not visited together, mainly due to time/family/employment constraints. No doubt, if you are willing to get out and camp, it opens a world of possibilities.
Ron, id love to take a few guns out- but i am turning wrench tomorrow to pay off the holidays. Responsible adult paying the bills and all that b.s.
Meanwhile T?s got me looking for flat top mountains over 7kft on GoogleEarth. Haven't found your little canyon yet, but found some other interesting looking stuff.
Rick, I think I found the wall in one of your pictures a page or two up. If not, what I'm looking at may well be worth the hike.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 14, 2015 - 10:42pm PT
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Thanks alot Jonny, now I've gotta scan for this too...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
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Is that the area I think it is jonny? The one somewhat east and south of Dome of the Rock?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2015 - 11:33pm PT
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It's not the one I've been out to. Considerably southeast of Dome of the Rock, by a different highway entirely. You've been to the area, but south of this. I've been prowling GE longer than I should tonight, trying to find T?s picture. Ha!
Man, I would love to just tour the state for a month or so and just climb stuff. Maybe when i retire. lol! Just found a lake with a bunch of shorter rock around it, from top-rope stuff up to 2- maybe 3 pitch stuff, from the looks of it. I should be able to show you several locations monday, but they all involve much longer drives than we've been at, and some of them would be considerable on the approach. Places to go and camp for the weekend, as day-trips wouldn't cut it.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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I think Dan might like the slightly overhung thin hands/fingers crack that starts below this wall, and arches its way up to the ramp below that wall. Hell, I'd kinda like to see someone do it. I'm getting too fat, and it was above my grade to begin with.
There's a twin off-width next to it as well that goes up a corner too.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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Ron, maybe you guys can drag me out there some time?
Here's one I've been to. The rock is a sort of granodiorite or something. Doesn't lend itself much to crack systems, but it's clime-able. My partner wasn't up to the approach or the long climb, so we opted for a short little thing way down lower on the mountain than the one I have the measure on. It looks to be a steeply inclined ramp. Steeper than the ramp at the monkey wall in your pics above, but c'mon... potentially 800ft of 5.6 oughta be worth it, eh?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 15, 2015 - 05:11pm PT
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OW OH WOW, SO MUCH STOKE & FROM GEEZERS NO LESS</;+D
Try not to tell the young folks not to NOT boulder, anymore, it is the best way to cull the herd!
Besides you don't want to be responsible for killing the Pad industry do you?</;+D
Also Keep it to your selves, I do not Have Facebook or any of that other crap.
I do have A postal address and not that going postal has a good reputation , but it still works fine for communicating effectively.
I'm not so old , just A bit broken right now, I have tons of small rock hell, spots way over on the eastern atlantic shores stuff that has my name attached but will i get credit? do I care? (well yes that is why I'm spraying here!)
GOOD ON YA' men, FOR GOING AND GETTING AFTER IT, Anything you add is proud!!
ROCK CLIMB FOREVER THATS WHAT HANS & FRITZ TOLD ME!!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 15, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
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sorry for the thread hijack, the Gods of rock (or chozz) compelled me!
the Eye scared face in the dirt up hill is looking with your disdain at me too.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 15, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
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And so you will Chim. Im up to AK feb 17-26. Anytime after that would be great. You should hook up with Jonnyrig, he's got abilities being wasted tagging along with geezers. Get us some contact info.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 16, 2015 - 08:45am PT
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One area at a time Chim. Im not ready to give up the location of the crag that the monkey man wall is on just yet. Still have a few moderates picked out that needs to be done. Anyway I think the one we'll show you will more than please with the project potential and ease of access. Especially, after doing those forty five degree beach sand approaches at Woodfords.email your phone number and ill call when I get back to set up a trip.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Feb 16, 2015 - 09:13am PT
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Rick,
Fascinating. I was flying back from Colorado on Friday - flying low near the peaks to minimize the headwind - and flew over what I now know as Wild Granites. I thought - "what the hell, that looks fantastic" I spent the rest of the flight flying from spire to thumb to outcropping, etc. Reminding myself of all the potential Nevada has to offer.
Research brought me to this thread. And an idea.
How would you Reno guys like to go for a recon flight? I would have three seats open in a Cessna T210. It actually has six seats but for a recon flight four is good. You could photograph the place you are working on and/or check out new places. Some afternoon on a weekday would be best for me. I fly out of Placerville and could pick you up at Stead or Carson City - or Reno but they charge a ramp fee there.
Perhaps in exchange one of you could introduce my wife and I to your new area?
 Ney
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 16, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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Ney
I returned emailed you through ST. Let me know if you got it. The pm function on this site often doesn't seem to work 100%.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Feb 16, 2015 - 08:45pm PT
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Thanks Rick, got your message. Ron - if you are interested let's try to put together a flight when Rick gets back from Alaska.
I know what you mean about the roads. From the air there are roads everywhere in Nevada. Mining roads built and last used decades ago still look like roads.
Here's a trip I did over Northern NV a while back. I wasn't looking for crags though. In fact I wasn't looking for wild horses like my passengers. I was flying low and making sure I wasn't going to hit anything.
https://vimeo.com/neygrant/wildhorses
Ney
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
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I wont be likely to go, but as a thought you guys should take a gps and mark wayponts for any promising crags. And a camera with a good lens. By the way, thank you for the stellar opportunity!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 10:56am PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
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Maybe if you bring the hula girl off your dash.
Hell, I'd kinda like to go too...
but I HATE flying. And I doubt the better half would let me anyway. She hates getting stuck with the kids while I'm out playing.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
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Really? Yer breakin my heart dude.
Here's a short obscurity.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
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Maybe you ought to come up and climb with us some time, Dingus.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Feb 17, 2015 - 03:48pm PT
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Hi Dingus,
I have three open seats so when Rick returns we can set a date and see who can make it. I kind of like to ski so my secret wish is that the weather will be terrible for a while and we'll have to put it off...
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Feb 18, 2015 - 08:51am PT
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Here is what we don't want to see on the flight - Nevada dust storms. Very cool looking though when you are not in one. (Don't worry though, for a recon flight only good weather!)
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2015 - 09:50am PT
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By the way, nice video on the horse/burro trip. Diggin that wing-mounted camera.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 18, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
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What an offer Ney. Wow. If the mission ever goes down and there happens to be an extra seat on the bus... Well, I am available. I only have google earth theories to offer as far as beta goes, but do have a Canon 5d with a long telephoto lens to bring to the table. Not expecting a seat by any stretch, but with an offer like that, I mean, you gotta at least let your availability be known!!
Happy hunting to everyone. Here is one just just inside Cali that I've always wanted to get to:
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Feb 18, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
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but do have a Canon 5d with a long telephoto lens to bring to the table.
That camera could be nice to have, although too long a lens and you have flown by before you get anything good in the frame. I once flew a photo-flight over Half Dome to take photos of my wife and a women's hiking group on top. Per FAA regulations I was being a good pilot and staying 2,000 feet above, which meant using a long lens. My wife had a radio and was asking after the first pass if we got any good photos. I could hear them screaming in the background and could see them jumping up and down on the summit. But my passenger/photographer said he completely missed them and didn't get any shots at all. I did another pass and the same result. Dang. Now I'm feeling guilty because its Yosemite and no one wants an airplane buzzing around and I don't want to get in trouble. But I am legal so I do another pass and we get some fuzzy shots. Good enough anyway to go home.
And that photo looks like a sweet place with nice granite! No dirt airstrip nearby?
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 18, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
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Don't want to thread drift, but I have any lens we would need. super wide to 400mm...
And definitely no airstrip nearby! A huge meadow if you want to get crazy haha.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 22, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
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Bob Pinckney on the second pitch of a three pitch new route (first pitch still to be done) on Dome of the Rock. 11-12-2014.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
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Using google earth, I've made dots all over Nevada for places I'd like to visit now. Kinda wish I was better about flying. Oh well.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 25, 2015 - 10:32pm PT
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Some nice looking rock there Rick
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Feb 26, 2015 - 08:55am PT
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Thanks for all the great photos and info. I love this thread.
How about a Twin Otter and a bunch of us could go recon?...LOL.
For years I've driven through Nevada and just went past really interesting looking mountains and crags, but only hung out one time in Lamoille Canyon in the Ruby's. All my climbing buddies bailed on that trip so I just went with my dog.
This next September I am going to explore several areas around Ely with a co-worker buddy from Alaska.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 03:58pm PT
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
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I have a place I know. People have been there, but I've never seen anybody. Tends to be short. Some of the easier looking stuff...some I've actually been on.
I've spent the most time around this,
And this. This thing that looks like it could go, if I were a johannsolo, or henny. I donno, it certainly captured my imagination.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Update on flight:
My plane is grounded for a few weeks for maintenance. My main heading gyro (HSI) died and is being rebuilt. I'm taking the time to redo the audio/intercom system with new shielded wiring, which entails removing a lot of the interior panels. I'll let you guys know when I'm back in the air.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Ney, anytime you want to sample the remote but accessible rock would be fine with me. No airplane scouting trip necessary. Its sometimes difficult to recruit people for new routing in the wilds and it sounds like you have the bug for such mild adventure.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2015 - 06:46am PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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I think you exagerate my lack of exageration Ron.
Im not out their finding world class rock. More like viable alternatives for the local yokels who like a bit of adventure off the beaten track.
I compared our current area of development as being better than Donner and/or Woodfords. Well, that could be accurate given enough will and work. We'll see how our fellow yokels like it. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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To dream, you have the really good stuff, far flung out west
But soon as the snow melts this is gonna break out! the trail is in
I have freed 36 lines some on lead some on top rope,5.6-5.12,
five yellow Blazes incuding the tree in the fore ground
the six lanes wide road it sits on, puts it in plain view, and parking on state land
granite, 70 feet and higher good pro,
it needs boltzs to count on the east cost!(some say coAst )
the two pictures above are on the same formation
I have no Boltzs,
Some more of 'mine' is all somewhere that climbing would be frowned
upon due to rickety real estate values.I do not let it stop development, a real estate license, can be a plus. . .
Screw my anonymity those who can do , Do!!
While others drive by to boulder along the power lines.
Gauntlet thrown
Happy spring
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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[photoid=401784]Another awesome day in the NV wilds. The sun shined brightly from a cloudless sky, the temperature perfect, the rock, partners and climbing were phenomenal. Two new high quality routes done by Bob, laine and myself. Both approx 300', both about 5.9 and well protected, though they weaved improbable paths for such a moderate grade.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Rick - I think it is "Park Laine"' not "Park Lane"
(take off from Park Lane Mall in Reno)
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Much more vast Ron.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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I just want to say how happy I was to see my three favorite threads right now on the front page this morning... This being one of them.
Sounds like Laine got to pluck a sweet cherry with you guys this weekend! Right on.
I spent my weekend exploring the mysterious Wild Granites in the Toiyabe range.
We took a highly recommended "detour" (I actually think it may be faster) on State highway 2 (aka 722) and saw some awesome country.
I think there is definitely some untouched stone as you pass through the Bald Mountain range.
We got to the Indian Burial Ground Rd by night fall and were giddy about what lay above us.
We got the main campsite for our first night, which is really cool. Fully set up for a dirtbag to park there for many-a-day.
The hike was more involved and longer than we both thought it would be. The formations are so massive, that it seems like it will be a casual 45 minutes to get to them from the campsite, but those looks are definitely deceiving. We cliffed ourselves out once, and had very large packs on with camping and climbing gear, and the approach took us over 2 and half hours.
The place is certainly not one that you will conquer on your first outing. If places like Lover's Leap beg you to climb them, then the Wild Granites might be double-dog daring you to climb them. The highly discontinuous crack systems, the eerie and all too consistent sound of rock fall, and the untouched feel of the place all add to its mystique.
I'll be back.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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I know what you mean about that approach T?s. We camped at the site with the topo 2x12 nailed on the tree in september 2008. Is this the same camp you were at? Anyway with a full moon and with the aid of a mushroom dinner we marveled at the perfect visage of an indian Chief, feather headress and all, near the prow of the largest formation. I dont imagine you picked out the same image, did you? Anyway the next morning arrived cloudless, and thinking we were going to make a day climb out of the easy looking approach and crag we marched off in the 80 degree morning packs stuffed with big wall racks two ropes and two quarts of water a peice. Two and a half hours later and in now 95 degree temps we arrived waterless at the base. We did a decent recon but climbing was out of the question without water in the heat. What that place needs is a mass assault with a well stocked spike camp.at the base.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Nice pics, Tyson. We'll need to go out there soon and see what we can get done.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Yes, rick agreed on the gear stash needed at the base of the towers. Even then it will be a big task.
Temps for us were very good, and there is still some spring snow left, so we had all the water needed. The next month or so seems to be prime time if you want to stay camped up there for multiple days to try and get something done... but, like I said in the first post, the rockfall was really consistent, and I'm sure it has alot to do with the spring meltoff shifting things, so it's a bit of a catch-22.
Yes the first night we stayed at the site with the topo, it even has a swing now, ha... and a vagabond stove of sorts, plus an awesome table built by some the FA dudes. The IPA's we brought didn't quite elevate us to Indian Chief sighting levels, but we had fun anyways.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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T?S, I think there is an old 1/4" bolt leading up to that chimney system you mention. Here's a photo from directly below:
And this might be the bolt:
If not there it's nearby. Maybe leading up to the roofy thin crack left of the chimney? In any case, definitely scope very carefully with binocs - and even then assume 5.11 R slab climbers may have been there first. There's at least one multipitch slab route a bit up to the right, also with old rusty 1/4" (VERY hard to spot even with binocs). Might be nice to bring a replacement kit while you're up there!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Greg, we can make that happen. If you can spare some ASCA gear, we can replace them. Probably better stuff than my SS wedge bolts.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
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Looks like a good trip T?S. Droolworthy.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Very cool info Greg. That is definitely the same chimney system. We never saw anything shining in the binocs the whole weekend, we had a spotting scope, but left in the truck cause it was too heavy to justify, in hindsight I wished I would've lugged it up there. I definitely wasn't squinting hard enough to spot old rusty leepers with the binocs we did have up there.
I would have been surprised if a line as clear and good looking as that hadn't been climbed, it just looked so untouched, everything did really, that I started to convince myself that things like that might possibly be undone! Looks like it has been many seasons since it has seen a repeat attempt.
We didn't see much more than a pin the whole weekend, the hard men of yesterday appear to have kept it relatively clean up there. And a slab route to the right? wow. I'd love to learn more about that, considering the lack of hardware on that face and lack of protectable sections! Bold!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 12:20am PT
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On our 2008 recon we saw that single bolt, a widely spaced 2 or maybe three bolt line to the right on the slab, and a pin or two with attached tat hanging a couple pitches up on the very steep wall to the right of the prow. This place has been climbed on sporadically by a relative few for over forty years. Im sure there are at least a few dozen climbed lines and room for a few hundred more in the greater area. Too bad the route establishers dont come clean with some route descriptions. It's not like, given its distance from amenities and long approach, that it will ever see crowds.
Yeah, that too high picnic table and improved rock walled fire pit with cook setup was there in 2008 T? S.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 08:40am PT
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Somewhat in agreement DMT. But the Granite Wilds are the biggest (rivals Calaveras in size but exceeds it in quantity of formations) highly visible chunks of granite in the state and in full view of hwy 376 that has seen a fair amount of traffic since at least the 1950's. I know Alvin McClane put up some routes their in the 1960's. Before that I could see the Colorado or Utah or alternately the Californian pioneer modern climbers of the fifties taking a break to sample it on their cross country pilgramages. Anyway, just a location of the routes start and some description like upwards following the line of least resistance for ten pitches would suffice. Anything, so one doesn't find themselves halfway up a grade four FA only to find themselves confronting fixed gear on a used route. These highly visible and Impossible to Ignore crags are a little different than the smaller more obscure gems we are finding-it has a long and undeniable history. So, I ask any of the participants in that history to please cough up a little general info.
Tyson, any more pics or general locale of any routes you completed?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Mar 10, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
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I don't know Rick, like Dingus said you can't put info back in the box.
On the other hand, the Wild Granites are pretty dang obvious. As you know, the approach is kinda brutal with the endless sand slopes wandering among boulders. The season is short since you will fry most of the year when it's not freezing and snowy. And they are a long, long way from anywhere.
I think you and a lot of obscure FA folks would really like a way to know what's been climbed before. It doesn't much matter for remote crack systems, but faces - particularly runout faces - are important.
Most folks see both sides of the coin. But leaving some places "unknown" is getting harder and harder in the internet age. It's kind of cool to have huge expanses of obvious granite in the "unknown" category. When we went there in April '08, there weren't even any footprints until a few very old ones near the base of a wall.
And I just checked…as of less than a month ago, Wild Granites are now on Mountain Project, posted by some folks who did a 5.7 on a small formation. So the writing is on the wall...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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Anyone out there know anything about the routes sport and trad established on these western central NV limestone crags. Quite an extensive amount of limestone, most of good to high quality and ranging up to 500'. Saw at least three bolted lines on steep walls with tat at least ten years old.
[photoid=402089]
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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[photoid=402092]
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Mar 10, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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Very cool shots of the WG T?S. Was out there a couple of times in the 90's with my kids. Although we weren't climbing I immediately saw the potential. Would love to hear or see pics about climbing in the area. BTW the night shot of the main cliff is beautiful. Thanks
lars
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 10, 2015 - 10:22pm PT
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Don't spill the beans on new areas. Leave them for others to discover just as you did. Suspend your ego's need for recognition. Let your routes go like the wind.
The problem with this is that some of us really like history. Also, one of my favorite things about climbing is being somewhere that nobody else has. The whole "get the FA experience twice" goes totally out the window for me when I find out a line has been climbed or find signs of passage en-route.
The people who pass through without a peep just make me to spend a lot of time finding out what has been climbed so I can search out what has been not. If they shared with the community it would be nice. The FA experience is more than just the physical act of climbing without info, for me at least. It's also not about credit. Any time I do a new route I put my name last and would be totally find just saying "anonymous."
I guess if there's no fixed gear and nobody ever crawls out of their cave years alter to say they climbed something then it's all good. However, the fact that people do that casts a shadow of doubt over all the trad routes in an area, which is a bummer.
I don't know, just a bunch of opinions...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 10:23pm PT
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Dingus do you want to see new areas and routes and learn a little climbing history or do you just want to argue? Why don't you relax and enjoy the thread, inject a little less ego generated argumentation, and maybe contribute a little obscurity discoveries of your own. After all amigo this isn't one of those contentious political threads.
Now does anyone have any information on those limestone crags I posted. They are located 4.5 miles south of Imlay, off hwy. 80, in Prince Royal Canyon. You can drive virtually to their base. Only a 5-10 minute approach to the closest formations. Pretty good limestone. I bouldered around the base and found pretty much everything solid as rock. I saw three bolted lines, but the bolts were hard to see and im sure their are plenty of other established lines.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 10, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
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Another cool looking crag Rick. This thread is giving me a new respect for Nevada.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
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Just a drop in the bucket so far Limping Crab. There is an incredible amount of good rock out there in the void, plenty of them unclimbed. Glad you are enjoying Jonny's thread thus far. If you have the time and inclination get a hold of us and we'll gladly climb a new route or two with you, or at least point you in the right direction.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 11, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
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Dingus
I don't enjoy your posts about ego,
especially on a pure climbing thread.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 03:41pm PT
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 11, 2015 - 04:30pm PT
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Fighting thread drift with another photo of where the wild rocks are.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 11, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
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As a warning against topic drift-MORE--SMALL ROCK HELL WILL FOLLOW BICKERING AND THREAD DRIFT.
Along with the other Maven's here, I respond best to sincere request for beta.
If you see something that you want to get on just ask.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 11, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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Laine I see another great option for a future path. Avoid the cracks entirely on the face to the right of you in the picture. Probably take a few pins and bolts, but could be totally done on the lead. Thanks again for your participation last weekend. Couldn't have had such a good day without you. You are a safe, methodical, ever steadily upward climber and a great companion for the wilds.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 11, 2015 - 05:23pm PT
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Yea I agree Rick. The sporty trad lines out there are endless. It's kind of a granite Red Rock where many positive face holds present great opportunities for upward progress on steep terrain. Look forward to getting out with you guys again real soon.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 11, 2015 - 09:23pm PT
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"he whole "get the FA experience twice" goes totally out the window for me when I find out a line has been climbed or find signs of passage en-route."
No offense my friend but isn't that your ego talking? Presumably every climb you do is an FA for you, the first time you do it, regardless of the passage of others.
Maybe, I think of ego as something you do to impress others. The feeling of being somewhere nobody else has been is for myself. If that's still ego then so be it. You should see some of the stupid places I hike or caves I crawl through for that feeling :)
Now so I'm not guilty of only thread drift, here's a picture of a couple rocks in the background along one of the forks the of the Kings River that I don't think have been thoroughly checked out. Sorry it's not Nevada but there are still obscure places in the Sierra. I think.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 11, 2015 - 10:15pm PT
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^ Well that place doesn't suck
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Mar 12, 2015 - 01:24am PT
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Waterhouse peak. A face I've always seen on the way back from Kirkwood. OK, i didn't always see it. in fact I never saw it until I became a climber.
Ashley gettin' after it
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 12, 2015 - 06:50am PT
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DMT
Never said we didn't want people to know about and/or climb here.
In fact, we try to get people to join us. Only Jon Taylor & Laine Christman
have stepped up to the plate. You are completely wrong about ego,
we want to share information about a great area that has a lot of
pontential. Ego is not driven by the desire to climb 5.3 d! Let the
younger crowd get the FA's of harder routes beyond the ability of
old farts. Come join us soon, would like to meet you in person
and climb with you!
Bob Pinckney
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 12, 2015 - 08:04pm PT
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Well another day and another virgin crag in the NV wilds climbed on. This formation has a west facing and south facing aspect both 450+' tall. The rock is very high quality and if the crag we visited last weekend could yield thirty lines this one could yield at least sixty.
Bob starting up the 5.9 first pitch of Dreamliner.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 12, 2015 - 08:17pm PT
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Me continuing up the splitter of Dreamliner pitch one.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 12, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
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Here is a pic before we started up that shows the nature of the crack better. This is a five star route.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 13, 2015 - 08:31am PT
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**Yeaowwwzzaa! Dreamliner looks incredible guys! Nice work, holy smokes. Cant wait to discover this place for myself.
**
Here is some more Purgatory Peak stuff...
A better pic of the corner (although the first pic better captures the angle of it, which was near vertical and right leaning, and very very awesome.)
Here is a good look at the upper pitch (which we didn't do for time reasons but looks good and probably easier as well.)
Here is a photo of a corner we have our sights on for next time.
Here is a route we wanted to jump on right when we got up there, and in hindsight, we should have, as the ledge it ends up on would have set us up to walk to the route we did climb...
without topo marks:
And here is a cool sunset from when we got back to the truck just for good measure.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 08:38am PT
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I like the shot with Winnemucca Lake in the background. And the sunset. Never had anyone who was interested in making that hike up! Maybe one of these days...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 13, 2015 - 08:54am PT
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I second the motion on that pic with Lake Winnemucca as a back drop. Looks incredible. The approach keeps me and the other riff raff away, though.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 13, 2015 - 09:00am PT
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Si, si, this is my favorite pic as well.
That route in the pic really looks like it could be classic as well.
As far as the approach, yes it is long. But it was so much more straight forward and user friendly than we thought.
If you do go for it, definitely start at the purgatory boulders high parking area, and sort of side hill your way trending right up the thing. Taking the road that starts you a little closer to the peak and sets you up to hike the main draw/gully looks to be about as horrendous as can be. The side hill option puts you in the best gully/draw, with the least dramatic elevation gain (no scrambling, just hiking) the whole way. Took us two hours, and we were in no hurry.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 13, 2015 - 09:11am PT
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Thanks for the info Tyson. You should get with John and/or Laine and do some more new routes on that crag we climbed on last weekend. This crag is begging for many more new lines beyond my meager abilities.The 20 minute relatively level approach doesn't give the great cardio workout but allows for more climbing per day trip.
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ElbowHornet
Boulder climber
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Mar 13, 2015 - 09:55am PT
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Hey there say Gnome...
Please post up more pictures of the same three blocks of choss. What's your mission, to infect every thread with rambles and identical shots of the nobody-cares-crag???
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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Post up your favorite obscure rock and have an excellent day!
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ElbowHornet
Boulder climber
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Mar 13, 2015 - 11:02am PT
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Hey thurr say Rong ANderson
you should make a new guide called driving wrong way on freeway like an a**hole and bragging about it
moron
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 13, 2015 - 11:49am PT
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Nobody has enough time left on earth to put up with senseless b.s. like you just posted above elbowhead. Stuff it up your azz and please cork it.
No paper guide Ron. This is it, a self help guide written in electrons only. For now, anyone interested in venturing off the beaten path for quality new rock climbs in the remote locations we're highlighting need only to privately ask. It would be nice for FA'ists to chronicle their adventures in the NV wilds here and in other related threads for eventual repeat climbing enjoyment to those not quite so fond of the unknown
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
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Yes indeed. Could be climbzheimers too. They're related.
Post that pic! As to location? It'll come to you in the middle of the night, like warm bowl of water and one of those realistic dreams where you're peeing in the closet...
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 13, 2015 - 08:03pm PT
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Hey Rick you guys heading back out this Sunday?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 13, 2015 - 08:41pm PT
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Quite possibly on Sunday Laine. Want to go new routing?
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:08am PT
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Now I know you fellas learned to climb in the Cretaceous and that these are 5.3d type routes, but is that seriously a hip belay? Too funny!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:26am PT
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Yeah Cowboy, self taught in the cretaceous at that. Been getting so much shet over my bomber (held many a long fall) hip belay that I broke down and bought a ATC Guide device. It still takes a little faith on my part to trust anothers life to a little chunk of metal.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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Awesome Rick! Do you dulfersitz your raps? Or do you munter?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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Caribiner brake. I quickly advanced from the dulferschitz after the first painful experience some 45+ years ago. On another note, nobody has evet been hurt while climbing with me. I take others safety seriously. How about you Cowboy?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:44am PT
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Yea Rick I'm down for some new routes. Make check out another formation across the way?
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:03am PT
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Depends on the obstacle at hand. I am pretty new-age most of the time but have been known to bust out the munter or the dulfersitz (Yowch!) for lighter-weight applications. And no, no injuries for those in my party, ever.
That pic of you under the roof with the hip belay is pretty classic man. Wish I could pull that one off! Although perhaps I will, if my partner takes much longer to get his ass in gear today.
EDIT: And yes, I hear you on the strangeness of those tiny (<50 g) devices to which we entrust so much.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:07am PT
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Have any of you been to the Blue Mass Scenic Area north of Ely? Was there [also with kids] about 20 years ago.
lars
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:20am PT
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I dont recognize the name Lars, but have scoped out the limestone of eastern nevada. Some first class rock and some pretty large formations. Saw some canyons near Railroad Valley with walls near 1000' tall.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:32am PT
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Blue Mass is granite Rick. It features some outstanding crystals in the rock. Unfortunately my pics are buried somewhere in my studio.
lars
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:35am PT
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Laine, do you mean the crag Bob and I climbed on thursday? That thing will blow you away with the shear numbers of incredible climbs. There is at least a dozen high quality face climbs 5.10-5.11 to the left of our route. There are three pitch crack, corner, and roof infested climbs to the right of all levels of difficulty. Im out for this weekend, but shot you an email. Hope you and Jonny and whoever else have a highly productive trip (he is a climbing machine) . Post up some pics of the used routes you make.
EDIT: Looks great Lars.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:47am PT
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A new crack a day...
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 14, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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I'm out for this weekend too, working on the
Air Lockers so we can easily get up that
other road beyond the normal parking area.
Go for it Laine & Johnny & anyone else
you can get to join you!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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Rick and Bob both keep me on hip belays. I,ve not tested it, but have no doubt both would catch any fall i might take. They can pull slack faster than i can with an ATC too.
Put a friend on TR hip belay, just to see. Knew he would fall, which he did. Personally, i have no desire to catch a lead fall that way. But its a good skill to have, along with prusiks, munters, and various ways to tie yer own harness.
Maybe heading out to climb sunday.
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 08:24pm PT
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Mar 14, 2015 - 08:38pm PT
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This is a really enjoyable thread,
then we have: ElbowHornet with major weirdness last night,
and heights with major weirdness tonight.
strange shist dudes.
Ron? Would you hunt them varmints down?
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
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Dear Frtiz,
Just looking to get bravecowboy to realize that blocking a three year olds calls isnt really a grown up thing to do. Especially when that little boy calls him daddy.
I wouldnt call it weird, dear Fritz.
Do you have children?
Because, if you did, you may know where a parent is coming from.
Bravecowboy can pretend to be all he wants on Supertopo, but I am here to make a point. He doesn't care to tell the little boy that he doesnt want him, or what ever the reason he abandoned him is.
The fact is that he would rather post on supertopo then give him a call.
This was the only way to get the bravecowboys attention.
And I damn well will for my son.
Bravecowboy, call Ben and tell him you are done with him, because he asks me everyday about you.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:17pm PT
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Heights.. this won't work. Life is complicated.. but trying to embarrass a person into doing something you want...'
Well..you got a lot to learn the hard way it seems. Don't we all..suggestion.. enjoy and be really grateful for what you have.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:29pm PT
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climbski2: I think this is all about heights, and is an expression of its own state of mind. It has 4 posts on ST, all are tonight, & 3 are on this thread.
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:32pm PT
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I cant tell my boy that daddy isnt coming back
I want one thing from bravecowboy
to call him and tell him, something, anything!
thats it.
i dont know what to tell him, he asks almost every day where daddy is, why he wont call him.
i think the boy deserves closure.
and then i will be done
thats a promise
and as for gratitude. I know about it. i have a perfect boy and a lovely life with abundant opportunity. it is the cowboy that needs to learn gratitude, for the little boy that loved him. and the woman that loved him.
this isnt about cowboy and i.
its about the relationship bravecowboy built with my son
I want Max to tell him on the phone that he wont see him so he stops asking me.
fair enough? I knew how to reach the selfish boy and I will post until he calls.
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:50pm PT
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Ron,
No because this is directed at (notso)bravecowboy.
When he fixes this, I will lay off.
Until then. I apologize for any inconvenience.
But, this is what Max gets for breaking that little boys heart.
Isnt it funny how sometimes your own actions affect other people?
Lesson here perhaps?
I would embrace that fact that I am not going to let him hurt my son without him knowing it and, if anyone is a single parent out there, they might actually encourage bravecowboy to take responsibility.
just throwing that out there.
no one likes to feel abandoned, or unloved. especially a child.
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:01pm PT
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Actually my three year old does. ;)
and, its funny that you are comparing yourself to a three year old!
I am sorry that the only excitement you get is some pictures online.
I think you ought to get a beautiful woman to climb in bed with than getting upset about your silly internet thread being contaminated with real life. Hey, I am sure you are perfectly nice guy. Be a little more compassionate, maybe that pretty lady will find her way to you.
on that note, how old are ya ;)
A woman has got to do what shes got to do, and this is the internet after all! so roll with it!
I HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE WOOOHOOO!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
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When the going gets weird the weird get going.
This reality show is way better than some old dudes drooling over choss piles. I'll trade my crusty old climbing shoes in for some popcorn now.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Well now we know why he doesn't call eh?
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:09pm PT
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ruining supertopo one post at a time!
WOww wee!
Hey but guess what?
I got all of you attention, and I got rid of an as#@&%e boyfriend!
So, I am having FUN!!!!
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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Thanks, I wouldnt mind.
All you old dudes are so kind
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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No my dear, you're making this thread and ST better with each post. Carry on.And can you get a little more risque.
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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this was fun,
thanks for all your time :)
oh btw, yes model's pictures do get re-posted
thats the whole point! if you dont have a honey, I know my photo made you smile!
and it should! life is short!
I am smiling now!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
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Wait, can't you hang around please.......
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:18pm PT
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Oh and Ron
I know you are Max's buddy, and thats why you hatin'
but, take a deep breath darlin' and just know, I am having fun here.
and I am a crazy woman. I have passion. Aint no denyin' it!
I am comfy in who I am. Are you?
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:22pm PT
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Ahh Rick Summer. I may hang around.
And to some others.
I know you are trying to hate on me b/c i am a hot daughter aged feisty sassy woman, but, really, I am being real with you.
And so lets be honest, how real are people when they post online?
Mostly a facade!
I really am not trying to piss any of you off. I am just bored, and making a very very strong point to the the little baby cowboy. (dont mess with mama bear)
Hows the popcorn?
I do have you all excited. and a little angry perhaps
start me a thread then !>!!!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
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What is it about meth? Always the same behaviors. Sucks.
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
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You do METH!
jezz dude thats nasty
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:26pm PT
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How about i write f*#k you
and post that
youre just sad because your dick has cob webs on it
F*#K YOU
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
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I suspect she will be up posting long after us old folks have had a couple nights sleep..She is fixated now.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
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I wish you and your son the best. Hate to see relationships go south; but sometimes it happens. We're not here for, and we're not capable of playing psychologist on a public forum like this. And I'm not sure it's going to get the results you're hoping for. He's a cute kid, and at three years old I have no doubt he deserves the best from his parents.
I'm not entirely sure a public pissing match is the best; but hey... that's your call. Hopefully, you'll both do what's best for the kid. I wouldn't trade mine for the world. Daycare plague and all.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
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You got this thread ringing like a jackpot in Vegas Heights. Come on you can do even better.
EDIT: By the way, is the cowboy the bio daddy?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:31pm PT
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Holy crap jonny.. they sure are growing up fast!
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
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Hey, I like your humor dear, but I just dont get it. Are you wishing you had a taco? Do you have a taco? When you f*#k your gf is it like f*#king a taco?
I mean dude.
I dont want to hate on you, why you hating on me so hard?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2015 - 10:36pm PT
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Yes, both walking and kinda talking. Starting the two-year old tantrum meltdown stage. I gotta find that stash of earplugs. Waiting on warm weather and a lack of illness... every week some new cold... so we can start camping. Haven't invited ya for a BBQ cause we haven't had one yet. But we will. Got plenty of elk burger in the deep freeze!
Seriously... daycare plague. We've had hand foot and mouth, RSV, sinus infections, ear infections, fevers, colds, flu, and norovirus. Just this year! Add teething and the regular bumps and thumps kids just learning to walk tend to get, and it's good times in the burbs for sure!
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
|
Jrig
Your kids are BEAUTIFUL!
thank you for sharing and saying something that sounded human
you know what its like to have a precious life to watch out for
and you know as well as I, if someone hurts them, daddy is watching out and he isnt going to stand for it.
You are awesome
keep lovin those babies, I sure love mine
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:39pm PT
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hey my butt is beautiful
if anything i was sharing a nice photo kindly like all you folks have done
I dont know supertopo lingo and i apologize for that.
can we be friends? or you still mad?
(oh, stipulation, drop the taco talk, peas?)
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2015 - 10:39pm PT
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I had tacos tonight. They were super.
It's not hate, heights... it's wanting the best for your kid. I'd want the best for mine too, and I've seen the worst with my ex and her kid, which was not mine. I watched my ex and her kid's dad run the gamut of nastiness, and her kid ended up on drugs, maybe dead by now. She could have done things different. It's not hate, it's a suggestion that maybe you could do things a little different, maybe a little better.
And yes, I love them very much.
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:42pm PT
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Jrig.
3 is the best years
2 was rough
now he asks for a spot when hes bouldering and put all his own gear on
hes amazing.
ps: daycare sickness is the pits. But later, they'll be so healthy and happy from a wonderful dad. so cool
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:43pm PT
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John have you and Brenda looked into in -home private day care for the kids. The one year my wife had to go back to work in '86 it sure worked for cutting down the illness rate for our kids, and actually at little additional cost.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2015 - 10:46pm PT
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Well, we hope we do a good job raising them. After all... They'll pick my nursing home when I finally lose my mind!
Take care of that boy, eh? I got grandparents coming to visit so I can go climbing and post up pics of some wickedly awesome new 5.3d's to this thread manana.
Good night to you Heights
Rick, no. Figure it's better to just grin and bear it. Pretty soon they'll be in school proper, and by then should have quite the immunity built up. It's really not so bad unless one or both of us gets sick too, like last weekend when I got called home. It pissed me off at the time, but in retrospect it's probably good that I hauled ass home. Brenda was truly having a rough time of it then. Otherwise, we actually manage fairly well.
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 10:49pm PT
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You are all okay in my book
and if you actually knew me, id be prolly be okay in yours too
goodnight, be well, I had a great time on supermofo, i mean topo
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
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Mar 14, 2015 - 11:01pm PT
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The saga of the Brave Cowpoker?
The B. C. had a sweet thing goin' he saw what a side of life might be like.
Now Cowpoke, what's in a name? Has an agenda to not grow up too soon
He must maintain, His freedom rules . . His.name is Let's not say that,!
if you broke it, found it broken and crushed it, or tried to,
You deserve this and a rail ride, old school style, offa' the ranch,
but we all see that is not the case here!!
The brave Cowboy is not the Bio dad!
The Girl Said SO and has now deleted that important fact
you know how to come back it is as easy as posting more new cracks
To have dipped and danced long enough to stir Heights fancy
You know how, and what it takes with that mommy.
I hope that you are brave and face the shrew and her sweet kid, as a friend said,
tell her to give up and tell the kid whatever she likes that is what she will do anyway.
Goyl, Heights,
you got Moxie
a 5.8 climb in the Gunks Have You been? lots a guys at the Gunks, just saying.
You know, Hieghts, that spewing here will only antagonize the man,
Certainly not making him into a caring father.
Caring father, you are working on making him into a dirt dwelling climber for life.
Get off his Back and move on! (don't hate the Messenger)
Please care that many good men here are fathers and we try to find balance, but climbers often suck at the family game.
Sad really it is the only game if and when you get old.
That if I could I would post up pictures of small chunks of rock, small but not choss,
The point of the pebbles is multi dimensional I like yelling MeMe Me into the wind,
that and they need to be seen to remind others that there is rock every where
knowing that a rock eater is trapped in the mud of small rock hell & all the fun that the
BraveCowboy Is trying to shun.
Heights you tuff S. O. B. Keep running 'em down,
many a climber has chewed up more than they could bite.
Some choked, some choked to death on stone dust
a dear friend got the chop by a insane female...she used a gun.
Some got married and sleep in a cell down the hall,
it is a self made hell
That is akin to a never ending lead fall.
As to your son he needs a dad, maybe a newer to the game gym climber,
Who you can mold to fit your Ideal of a man?
Good Luck If that Is your plan.
Non -climbers are much more Malleable -.
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/malleable
The shame is that in two or three hours, Heights felt the need to take half her sIht down,
She had the stones to post up and came out swinging Head shotzz
Heights showed some thin skin, that was not a win for anyone,
That is a required step in troll growth, this is a live one to bad guys can't play nice,
To Heights,
Thank you for the art that was entertainment! and vice versa!! I know that was not your GOAL
All activities related to the behaviors found on the SUPER TACO are reasons to not participate in said activities,
that is a name that describes this food stand for the imagination !!
A food truck with a limited menu,that,is hit or miss at any try . . .
you might get great goods or the shizz, but you keep coming back.
The taco comment threw you off, and getting back the neon Mojo never happens.
The next three or four posts will be people sensing, weakness, aiming strikes to the belly if you don't cover up,
in a hole?. Stop digging!,
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Heights_
climber
I wish I knew
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Mar 14, 2015 - 11:05pm PT
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Well success everyone.
Bravecowboy as on this thread the whole time under another name, funny
brave
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
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You didn't answer Heights. Is the cowpoke the actual bio daddy?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 11:55pm PT
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I didn't think so Heights
You and especially your son need serious help
Your not helping a three year old by climbing over a stack of loose boulders and soloing an offwidth right over his head
I urge you to get with whatever family you might have, to care for your son while you attempt to get your head rescrewed on straight
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Mar 15, 2015 - 12:37am PT
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Fool me once
Shame on you.
Fool me twice
Shame on me.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 15, 2015 - 06:22am PT
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Wow, less than 24 hours since I last posted! And I was shutting down the off topic ego
comments? Nothing compared to this!
On a side note, (climbing), Rick bought a belay device! Of course we just looked at it
on its for sale card and left it in the truck when we went climbing! Ha Ha!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 06:34am PT
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Well, I don't know about y'all, but I'm going climbing today. Gotta get this thread back on-topic.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 15, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
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Another successful day out in wild Nevada. Bagged two new routes in the howling wind. One 9+ corner with a bulging OW and another short 5.7
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 15, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
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Awesome Laine, John and Maryann. Now what do we call this formation? And are you interested in some real classics on our newly developing crag after i get back from New Mexico on the 25th?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 09:26pm PT
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Yes. Definitely interested.
I'm downloading video to pull stills now, more pics to follow. Calling today's OW corner Washoe Zephyr. Recommended wide cams, a windbreaker, and goggles at the belay.
The whole crag? Hmm...
chukar's roost?
Gerlach-south?
selenite scramble?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 15, 2015 - 09:50pm PT
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Look closely at the upper right side of the crag picture I posted above. Do you see the face (of what?) In the picture? In a smaller image it kind of looked like a lion head.
It sounds like you got an eye full of debris in the howling wind.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
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Darn. Not once did I actually look at the 2nd roof with the camera. Oops.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 15, 2015 - 10:19pm PT
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Doggon' It your stuff looks awesome ! Absolutely the wind is howling here right now.
That Beautiful breast of rock in the wilderness call it;
Totally Tit Walls, or Brest of the Basin, now really that face looks like a hippie in a head band but lion sure I see that long face but sure !
A Tit Too Far Walls,. The Tooth of the Basin the Molar, or the Rack of the Basin ,Left right and center.
balls to the walls and what fits in a witches Bra ! nix the tits and get Witches Balls Wall
When you are in a hole stop digging !
Killer looking rock but I m not get dumped or dumping the family unit , what's the local bathroom availability?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 11:09pm PT
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Look back one page for the latest pics. ^^^ Two new routes up.
Am I on target with Steppin Out? It looks to me like there's a route that needs attention left and straight up from its start to the third belay of our first climb needs attention, along with the entire right side, which looks like some moderate 2-pitch stuff.
Gnome, there's a bar with a bathroom at Bruno's in Gerlach.
Washoe Zephyr: If you stand at the belay on top of the red line in a breeze, you'll understand.
http://www.twainquotes.com/Zephyr.html
I've forgotten what we called the green route, damnit. Goes, what, 5.8? 4th pitch is behind the top formation, a short 8/9 fingers and hands corner crack. Most everything ends up at the confluence at the top of Washoe Zephyr and Steppin Out. From there, a 20 ft 4th class (unless you fall off to your right, then pancake 120ft at the bottom) to the top walk off.
Yellow has a tentative name, but that's Laine's call. 70?ft 5.7 with good pro. There's an overhung hands/fists just under and parallel to it that needs some loose flakes cleaned first.
Thanks Rick vvv
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 15, 2015 - 11:47pm PT
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Your lines and belay locations are a little off John, but a good start. Center route is on my list as well as some lines on the right side. After the cracks are all climbed there is still plenty of possibility for face climbs. I head to N.M. in a few days, after, its the lengthy hump in to the other new crag and the leaving of a total gear stash.
EDIT: I see you fixed the line of stepping out pitch one, but the belay is above the big roof at the first prominent horizontal crack.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 16, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
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A little photo bump to spur interest in further new routing. Another unclimbed formation only a 25 minute relatively level approach from what i now call "The Sphinx" parking area. Lots of long single pitch crack climbs.
John, good lines and belay stations now on the photo. Ask Bob for a name for the left hand route which i put at pitch1; 130 or 170 feet dependent on start location 5.5. pitch2 165 feet 5.8. pitch 3; 50 feet 5.7. pitch 4 125 feet with a 5.9 move or two. Stepping out pitch 1; 185 feet 5.8+. pitch 2; 115 feet 5.9 because of the first move off the belay, the rest is pretty consistent 5.8. Laine, Bob and i looked at that offwidth looking thing high on the south face and first off its incredible it went at only 5.7, second you've got to be kidding with the seventy foot estimate, thats got to be at least a hundred. You guys are climbing with seventy meter ropes and therefore things seem a bit shorter to you.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
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That works. And that new area looks pretty freekin sweet. Sphinx it is.
It's not the 70m ropes, it's just that I suck at estimating vertical distances. Probably best I tie knots in the ends on unknown raps. We were ogling some of the northern formations while we were there as well.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 16, 2015 - 05:12pm PT
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The Sphinx looks like it hosts some really nice cracks, Rick. This place is great. The FAs go so smoothly, I'm averaging 2 per day, crazy! No real additional work needed. Locate, rack, send, done. Just that easy.
I'm hoping to get out there again for a day next weekend, maybe I can bag three.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 16, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
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Sphinx is what im calling the original formation that we have quite a few lines on now Laine. Hell look at Johns lined picture above, you can even see the beard, arm, and paw with just a little imagination.
John that new formation I posted above is up the road and 200 yards beyond the spring,turn off the road to the left and up the hill another 200 yards to a saddle. At that point look southwest slightly downhill and youll see the left hand profile. Another 200 yards to the base. All distances are approximate.
I really like finding new crags, doing a few routes, then finding a handfull of others that enjoy the experience. Have at it guys.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 16, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
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I see it Rick. Cool crag! So good to see Hillrat out there getting after it!!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 17, 2015 - 06:39am PT
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Sphinx - great name - I like it
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 17, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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A bit eroded over tke eons, nut still pretty obvious in the route line picture. Don't you think Bob? After you get your rock crawlin 4x4 in shape its off to the temple of Luxor on down the ridge.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 08:55am PT
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Elsewhere in the area:
Circa 2012: this is the single pitch short thing on the approach to the Sphinx. I'd say the crack runs maybe 5.4, with a huge flat top and some good anchor points, with an easy scramble down on the south end. 60-70 ft tall? and several other, harder lines available that haven't been done. Probably would make a good top-rope area with a few bolts.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 17, 2015 - 10:51am PT
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John you're only a couple miles south of Luxor Peak in the top photo. That's where sone of the largest fornations in the range lie. That buttress below and straight in line with Brenda in the same picture could be pretty good also.
EDIT : I believe the crag in the third picture of your post above is the crag with all the cracks I posted the picture of. Perhaps my estimate of approach length is just a wee bit light.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 06:12am PT
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Troubleshooting 4x4 completed! 4 new BF Goodrich tires, new front axle
actuator installed. Drivers door latch repaired & drivers window repaired.
New compressor for air lockers ordered, should arrive this week.
Will be close, but should be finished & ready to go by the time you get back
from NM
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 18, 2015 - 06:55am PT
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Thats great Bob, definitely get us closer, but we might just have to resort to dirtbikes to get us within reasonable approch of Luxor.
In the meantime here is a picture of The Obelisk, The Sphink' companion crag which catches the morning sun earlier. Three routes here previously described and pictured in this thread: The left crack, Tad's Siren Song (yes Hocking we were discussing your april visit while putting it up) , and Park Lane. Room for plenty more.
In case you haven't noticed I'm leaning heavily towards calling this 3-5 mile chunk of mountaintop "The Egyptian Ridge". It's written in stone and with some reference to the northern locale officially written on the map.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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I've been on the east side of Luxor hunting chukar. Go over the pass, north past the ranch on the east side of the range, and watch for roads heading back up the mountain. We parked at the bottom and hiked up. The road on top appeared traveled, but that was a decade ago. There's some other rock up there in the saddle, but not like we've been going after, and I've not explored the west face of Luxor proper.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 10:16am PT
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Question about exploring Nevada countryside: I'm doing a big loop this summer, and deciding between Hwy 50 from Tahoe area to Great Basin, vs. going through Tuolumne past Mono/120 to Hwy 6. Any input/suggestions?
I assume Hwy 6 is more scenic since it's a smaller road- but how much extra time am I taking on? I'm trying to fit as much exploring (and getting out of the car time) as I can on a 2 week vacation with the kids from SF Bay Area to Yellowstone and back (while tagging the City of Rocks get-together and visiting my bro near Boise). Not sure if I should just gun it as a night drive to Great Basin or take time checking out central Nevada. Lots of inspiring pics in this thread.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 11:16am PT
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I haven't travelled 6. What I will say about Nevada is that unless you get off the highway, no matter which one, you miss most of the scenic areas. The highways are generally built down through the low desert flatland, and there just isn't much exciting out there. If you want to see sights, do a little research around whatever route you choose. Nevada is littered with mountains, ghost towns, hot springs, rock hounding, wildlife, even fishing. You just don't see it from the blacktop. Often they're accessible via very short, easy side trips that people simply aren't aware of.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 18, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
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Yeah Tad, pyramid lake southeast shore is only about 45 minutes away. Great fishing for Lahontan Cutthroat .
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 06:39pm PT
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Ron, take a look at King Lear on google earth. There's a whole lot of rock, but it all looks like volcanic choss in the pictures on GE.
Now, just a few miles north of that...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 18, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
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Bob are you in for going up to our newest crag weds 25th or thurs 26 then again for a second time (after I stash a full rack and ropes) on either weekend day the 28 or 29? I think that's what it will take to put up a few of the very best routes yet. I might leave the gear up there for another week.
Are there any other adventure oriented and in shape climbers in the Reno/Carson area that could also fit in those dates? If so post up or pm if your interested in a little exercise and some great routes.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 19, 2015 - 06:56am PT
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You bet I'm in - you would win!
& would it be great if anyone
joined us!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 19, 2015 - 08:49am PT
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Great Bob, now where are the younger guys? Laine, Chim, T? S, anyone? It's a bit of a hike but not like Purgatory. Hell we'll even take a weekender only if they pack a little more than their fare share since we'll already have the gear there. John has already said he'll be in sacramento that weekend.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 19, 2015 - 11:32am PT
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No can do for me, Rick. Heading to Red Rock the weekend of the 28th.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 19, 2015 - 03:40pm PT
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It Is Still Snowing Here !!
SCHIST AS FRITZ SAYS.
NOW that I am dogless, I want to roam, Man Oh man The stuff you guys are on ...
Is my lurking and cheering any help? My chances of a trip to your area is doubt full.
When does it get too hot.
If it ever gets warm here,..I will post up more small rock hell shots from a New spot by a lake.
If you would rather I not Pollute your great thread Let me Know!
It is an amazing spot. all sorts of 5.Hard(12's) and up potential !
Any rope guns under thirty want in ?
So much rock some free time and no one around? Danna B ??
I have seen A Cat NamedFEAR?? and Pod? or Posh yeah that was it, Is Posh an admin. at Mnt Prj?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 19, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
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Well have fun down there Laine and give the egyptian ridge a good go this weekend. The first three new route day would be a welcome addition. I was going to go to Redrocks myself this spring but the local stuff has got me pretty hyped. Please post up your new routes so we know where the newly tread ground lies and a few details of the climbing.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 22, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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Another pic of Kumiva Peak.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 23, 2015 - 06:35am PT
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Got out to the Sphinx this weekend. A few of us repeated the route I did with Jon and Maryann (washoe zephyr). Then we rapped back down and did a line just left of it that ascents a black and orange streak. The route crosses Stepping Out only briefly. Very moderate I say 5.8 but a bit spicy on the face.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 23, 2015 - 06:51am PT
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Great pictures, great climbs, great area!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 23, 2015 - 09:37pm PT
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Looks like you can go almost anywhere on The Sphinx, and moderately at that. Laine were the edges and holds as solid as they looked in the orange streak pic? And did the route intersect Stepping out pitch one belay then go left in the horizontal crack to the next vertical crack?
Tyson, if you liked this crag you'll be blown away by the potential on the next one.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 23, 2015 - 09:56pm PT
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I was definitely impressed. The rock quality was very good. Very little cleaning (as in none) was needed for that moderate little cherry. The black/orange streak in question was bullet, with great edges the whole way.
The double roof just right of this route looks like it might end up being a king line when it gets sent. Looked much bigger in person!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
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Great pictures. Glad to see people out there enjoying it. After a bit of climbing at a sacto gym with cracks, i'm concluding it will be someone else who gets the FA on those roofs. Sure hope I make it out to the new spot soon!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 23, 2015 - 10:16pm PT
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Next thurs and again on the weekend looks to be the next trip John. Either day you could make it would be great. I might leave the gear up there for another week.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 24, 2015 - 06:41am PT
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Rick, the orange streak route includes the boulder problem right of the SO belay but then goes straight up where the orange streak continues via a finger crack and edges into a final crack.
Also, we added another bolt to your single at the top so you can rap and avoid the walk around to the base. A single 70m rope will get you to the base of WZ. The horizontal traverse left at P1 belay of SO to the next leaning crack still lays in wait...
Excited to see pics of the newest rock
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2015 - 07:54am PT
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nonspam bump.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 24, 2015 - 07:55am PT
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I see Laine. Intermittent crack and face pretty much straight up but crossing SO's diagonal crack just above first belay. Didn't see it when I was there. All those positive edges peppering the rock add a whole new dimension to the route possibilities. A moderate wonderland, one might have to go overhanging or horizontal to find the difficult ground.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 24, 2015 - 08:37am PT
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Yes moderate is the name of the game out there, but I'm anticipating the double roof route to be in the 11 range. Super stoked to get the FA on that bad boy. Wanna call it the Pharaoh's New Move (assuming I bag it of course)
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Mar 24, 2015 - 10:01am PT
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I shot this photo from the gunner's window of a blackhawk some years ago. There are a few published routes there now at the right margin of the photo.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Mar 25, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
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Cosmic, was that last photo the inspiration for the movie Tremors?
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Mar 25, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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the wilds need to be wild. No pictures of the sick sport climbs?
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bob
climber
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Mar 25, 2015 - 07:06pm PT
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Obscure rock in a familiar area. aka elseware. Go get some!!!!!!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 25, 2015 - 08:34pm PT
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Yo Scott, post some pics of your and Coston's FA in wild granite. That selfish bastard won't share!
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Mar 26, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
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Good looking rock bob.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 26, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
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Well, Bob, John and I had a little unfinished business to tidy up on Dreamliner. The result was a 500' route, the equal of any in this accessible yet remote range. Pitch one 160' 5.9. Pitch 2 190' 5.9. Pitch 3 150' 5.7 to the top. An intricate fourth class decent followed. Considering the long, steep approach, the length and continuity of climbing, and the difficult decent it makes for a hard grade three day, for geezers anyway.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 26, 2015 - 09:49pm PT
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Starting the decent from Dreamliner which is pictured and described in the previous post above. Another incredible day of climbing explorations in the Nevada wilds.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2015 - 06:18am PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 27, 2015 - 10:53am PT
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Great Tad. Looking forward to your visit and tying in with you for a few moderate, well protected, classics at our amazing high desert discoveries.
As for this weekend; there is s glaring gap right up the center of the Sphinx, as depicted by Jonnyrig's excellent route course picture. Perhaps its time for an exploration to fill it?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 27, 2015 - 11:10am PT
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This area looks really great!! Wish I lived closer. Love putting up routes especially crack routes or which it looks like you have plenty. Mike
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 28, 2015 - 08:47am PT
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Glad you like it Mike. If you're ever out this way you should detour our way to sample this fine high desert granite and perhaps put up a crack line or two yourself.
Tomorrow Bob and I are off in his newly repaired 4x4 rockcrawler to try to get within relatively easy approach distance to what appears to have an abundance of larger formations (300 to 450 feet) at what I call the Temple of Luxor.
This area is shaping up to be a major climbing resource with dozens of walls, butresses, pinnacles, etc up to 6-7 pitches for the largest formations.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 28, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
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Rick starting the 2nd pitch of Dreamliner.
A 5.9 move or two to get established in
the crack proper. Up higher more 5.9
awaits. Quality Granite with the odd dike
here and there. Three fixed pins (knife blades)
in the crack and 1 fixed pin at the belay.
Use a 70 meter rope.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 29, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
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Bob's 4x4 handled the entire length of the Egyptian Ridge with ease and in fact there was only two twenty foot sections of the entire six mile length that required a short wheelbase high clearance 4x4. All long approaches are now eliminated. We saw vast acreage of high density boulders, clifflets, and single pitch crags as well as figuring out the departure points of various crags listed below. To those who aren't familiar with the area the following will mean little.
Mile 0 (the summit of the 2wheel drive pass road)
Mile .5 the Sphinx, Obelisk and various other clifflets and bouldering parking .
Mile .7 the first twenty foot section of boulder strewn road.
Mile .8 a good flowing spring ( bring your purifier)
Mile 1.1 a summit and departure point for the Crack wall and other pinnacles in its vicinity as well as three darker colored diorite laden butresses on the west face of the escarpment. Park here and walk uphill west, gaining a couple hundred feet to a saddle on the ridge. At this point the Crack wall is downhill to the north a quarter mile. If one continues northwest, sidehilling one reaches the two pitch northern buttress after a half mile. If one goes west down a ravine the middle butress is reached after a quarter mile. If one goes southwest and over another ridge the southern buttress is reached.
Mile 2.5 after going down a short steep hill a flowing spring and ranchers cattle gate is reached. Always close ranchers gates behind you. Turn left and continue after the gate.
Mile 3.0 closest approach to Twin Crags ( within 150 yards) which have several good one pitch crack climbs, many shorter cracks and faces as well as large boulders with overhanging cracks.
Mile 4.7 Turn west on a secondary road track and travel uphill .6 miles to a pass very near Luxors northern shoulder. Walk west a few hundred yards, gaining only a 100 feet or so in elevation, to Luxor's northern shoulder. Go over the shoulder northwest to a steep gully going down between the first two northernmost cliff formations. The bulk of the climbing is to the south from the gully's bottom on butresses and walls up to three pitches. The cliff front extends a half mile to the south and contains many quality single pitch crack climbs as well as the larger formations.
Mile 5.7 where the plethora of clifflets and boulders finally become sparse. The road continues down and west from here for another six miles to the highway 2500' below.
Consider this description a sort of first ascent self help guide. There are literally hundreds of routes to be done.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 29, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
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I'd ask about the mileages from which pavement to the "2wd summit road," but really, no one needs to have that sh#t published here.
Cheers again for getting after it!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 29, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 30, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
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My short approach compared toYOUR SHORT APPROACH??] man what a wall [Can you see the Quality in My find?? ] It is all in the eye of the beholderIf this is all you have*This is still iced under the leaves These are much better conditions, than when the bugz that are sure to come.take over, in late June.
EDIT : 4/2/15,
Today I was back and played End Games (a working name), No hint of passage but five neatly stacked rocks at the base,
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 31, 2015 - 06:19am PT
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I know right !!
I am the only one that can see these??
The last pic shows the 'short approach' potential! !(and the proximity of dense population)
The 1st pics of the cave and traverse need to be cleaned . . aggressively mmm
To within an inch of placing boltzz !
(Many would be needed to protect from ground fall). . Joke !! ..Ha HA chocking sounds,
After cleaning the dyno to the 'leaves' seems fun, static will be more fun, and all on top rope.
until some kid wants it ,
. The Slope is un-forgiving.Hard for a spotter to stand any where near the fall line of the climber .
A down Hill stance as much to provide first aid as to stop the tumble, before it turns into a cart-wheeling rag doll fall into the shifting tray sized talus ,
what ? NO Takers?
Fun routes some Wide and leaning some old aid to free and re aid as a good A3!!
Top rope is a weird slingshot carnival ride and hard on gear.
The slope is still way to frozen for my #1 belayer to join me.
This is Reason #2 not to rush a good season on snott slick hillsides. This is just one of five or six chossy piles that need work.
So I found chalk at one of my spots!!??? and the wife thinks it's mine from the location, The Gnome above the rt 84 Waterbury exchange, Ext 7/11 Stew's ViewCAR WASH CORNER, zone.
but I am holding out for a girl who can send v10!
I did not see any of my tell tale rock stacks .
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 06:20am PT
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Ron, make a little time and head out with us. Admittedly, our approaches have a little more sage than the Gnome's.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 07:47am PT
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Ron - it would be living history if you could get out there
with us - not to mention a blast!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Tad
Sorry to hear the sad news.
We were looking forward to your
visit.
The rocks & us are always here!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Another view of side buttress of Luxor
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Sorry to hear that Tad. I was looking forward to your visit and tying in with a fellow oldster, but family first makes for a balanced life. Perhaps next fall when it cools down again?
Bob, im starting to get a little bored with frequenting the same mountain range over and over again. Maybe its time to move a few ranges over and climb a few long anticipated projects. Are you, or any others viewing this thread, game for this coming weekend?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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This is elsewhere. Heading back in a few weeks for more.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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OK Bat.... its time to fess up on the location of this obscure LA local spot....
Help a brother out, OK?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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PM sent Guy
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Family visiting this wknd Rick, (Cheryl's
brother & S.O.)
but yes, other areas would be great to
check out!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Perhaps monday or tuesday then Bob? The route diagonals up from right at bottom to left on top. Four pitches. Begins left of center of photo on obvious ramp up vertical and monolithic section of wall. A couple of those larger boulders at the crags base are as large as a four story office building.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Definitely, just let me know the specifics
and I'll be there.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Lost Park
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that super-sucks Tad-man! happy it was autos and not people hurt!
and yeah, seriously, I am sorry for the taking that cancer does.
Cpt. Anderson, well, you know the joke about rock-masons and what they'll lay? (anything, the heavier the better)
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thebravecowboy
climber
Lost Park
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The keystone is the locker, the one that holds it all together. What were you talking about? ;-)
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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When it rains it pours Tad. Keep a careful eye out for your family and self until these troubles pass.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Woke up to a couple inches of snow here at paiute creek canyon this am. Hows it look your way Ron and Jrig. Tad, the weather report is showing cold temps and good possibility of precip during your previously planned vacation window. You probably wouldn't have missed much even if fate hadn't put the kabash to your plans. Bob we might have to put our next trip off till thursday and even then look for sunny exposures.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2015 - 10:00am PT
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There's a dusting in the higher elevations, but nothing noteworthy.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Slight dusting of snow here too!
I'm sure good weather will return
as will we!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Well I had a partner flake on me at the last moment today. In the mood for some climbing, and with everything already in the vehicle, I resolved to go it alone. After doing some improvements that enhance the environment for campers at the Sphinx parking/camping area, I wandered off to the crags top. Have had a number of new routes in mind but settled for a direct finish to our original Northwest Buttress route. I'm usually not one for preinspection or toproping, but what the hell I told myself as I rapped the prow of the upper buttess. This finish is about 5.8 and much preferable to our original finish since its full 125' is honest climbing rather than the degeneration to fourth class after 50' on the line to the left. High, high quality face climbing after the initial flake/crack which sucks in bomber small cams and wired stoppers. Higher above the cam up under the overlap might be a good place for a single bolt to keep it consistent with the well protected nature of the rest of the route.
Anyway, im up for organizing a group Camp/climb trip out there after my return from AK on the 19th. All you regulars are invited and I might just pm a few denizens of this forum I've wanted to meet or remeet for new routing adventure on some of the best rock and settings around.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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While you're working that great wall, Ron, ask Steve if he wants to go also. You guys bring the marshmellows and I'll buy the beer.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
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shh...
the rock is whispering...
can you hear it?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Apr 19, 2015 - 12:45am PT
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What is the horseshoe looking thing in the top right of the picture with your wife in it?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 19, 2015 - 07:20am PT
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My Chimney, Is cleaned,where it needs to be this is now the hot new climbing area in NJ! the Blue Gus Chimney named for Gus Neff, Tye Neff's son from Los gatos Ca. (?I have lost touch)and his suffering while belaying in the cold.
The right side of the chimney is Photo opportunity wall and can be climbed at three well protected grades depending on the obstacles choosen, the most direct(.11c/d) finishes straight out over the overhangs at the top, with a big throw to a square cut hold just below the final roof.
This move can be avoided by moving right to the skyline edge and back left and up.
Four very diverse lines travel up the left side of the Blue Gus Chimney, and take a joint start for gear and then fan out the easy way is 5.8 yet it mirrors the 5.11c! Two other lines weave up and go at the mid 5.10 range.
There are about seven distinct yet tangled lines and when the Ice sets up the thing is an Ice Box!
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Apr 19, 2015 - 01:56pm PT
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Rick and Ron - I'm back. Sorry I disappeared on you. I went to England for work, got sick from that trip, had to have a key instrument (the HSI) rebuilt, blah, blah.
However the plane is back in the air and I am ready if you are. Weekdays are better than weekends (but I'm open) and early morning is best for smooth air. I'm up for air photos of the place you are currently working (if, perhaps, you are thinking of a guide) or reconnaissance of other areas.
I think there was someone else that wanted to go that had a bunch of camera equipment?
Ney
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Apr 19, 2015 - 04:34pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 19, 2015 - 06:36pm PT
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Well another classic moderate climbed in the wilds of Nevada. Here's JRig leading the first pitch of The Ramp, 190' 5.7. It would have been a little run out but I convinced him to place a bolt to keep it in character with all the well protected moderates we are establishing.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 19, 2015 - 07:10pm PT
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One and the same Ron. You cant tell from the pic but the monolithic wall this ramp steeply ascends is dead vertical to slightly overhanging. A plethora of holds renders the ramp moderate.
About 70 in the sun at this crag today Tad, buy of course its north facing aspect didn't recieve any sunlight during our time there. We wore light jackets. I think the high in Reno was in the mid 70's.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
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There being just us two, we backed off a couple lines that were very loose and/or poorly protected. More to do here though.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 08:16pm PT
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Nice wall Ron. Tad, im jealous. Nice lookin rock up that way, and real snow!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Apr 19, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
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Do you know Ty/e Neff or his story?
I don't, but he or someone with the same name put up some climbs on Tom's Thumb (Susanville Ca. area) in the late 80's after I pioneered the place 76-78.
I knew Tye when I lived in Susanville and then I moved to Plumas Co.
We climbed a bit together...Pigeon cliffs, your thumb routes, and other assorted choss outcrops from Chester to Taylorsville.
I've climbed just about every route worth doing on that Thumb of a rock there.
Also a bunch further back in towards the reservoir (Antelope) from Genesee V. mostly on other obscure (tiny) formations.
Quality varies...mostly choss.
Which is why I moved to Truckee...well via Delhi:-)
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 19, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
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Delhi Dog, Ron & Tad that is Amazingly cool coincidence! The One and only Ty Neff!?
Ron, how does he spell his name?
Delhi, tell more did you ever meet his son Gus?
Tad that, ha ha, sucks, why didn' you climb all of that chunk when you had the chance? Just kidding but no stupid symbols if the sarcasm don' t getcha' the climbing will!
All that I can say as of now is that his son and I were inseparable for the kidz very tough teenage years, Ty was no longer in the picture. His Mom, a photographer who traded darkroom time for climbing time.
Then they moved to Los Gatos
I would see the Blue Gus one more time
he was in the Gunks and by the fates,
let two black six month old puppies get
out of a house on the edge of greater Gunks range, in mid summer.
That meeting was a test the I badly failed and your question
Makes me regret my stupidity for losing my temper.
I have been trying to find any of them, father and son, without anyone saying anything till you now.
Where is the written reference ? (Not mnt prjct)
His mom's new married name was Donna Compton, and she might know, her husband was Kevin I think but am not %100, sure, she climbed he played guitar.
Ty remains the question though , he left me a message once on a answering machine, it was a hoot. Now that I have kids I realize how bitter sweet the words were.
I had fostered in his son a climbing style that he was also a strong proponent of. and that he was calling to thank me for banging pins and forcing mixed lines in the middle of no-where as if they were front and center some where, Gus had shared that I had turned him into a Popsicle when the ice in the back left corner up there set up blue , Gus turned blue, Gus had a blue streak in his hair and my language was blue, so pardon if He, Ty, The Father, not the step-dad, Was Blue also!! it was a five years to late for the concerned dad routine, and a funny message.
This is my current girl friend she's sweet on me and I climb all over her
All most all of the rocks that I am posting are on public land and have been cleaned & climbed by myself
Some climbed on top rope, the ones below I have led. . . &&&The views when approaching Raven's Crest, Sugar Hollow&
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Apr 19, 2015 - 10:28pm PT
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Must have been around '85 or so...
My soon to be wife got a job teaching in Susanville. I came along for the ride and did part of my student teaching in Janesville.
Moved on to Greenville to work, then Taylorsville, then Bangladesh, then... other places.
Ti was married to another woman at the time, a nurse. She now lives in the GV area remarried. I see her every once-in- awhile mostly at the World Music Fest in July.
Ti...never saw him again after that so no I never met Gus. At least I don't think so.
We did do some weird sh#t though BITD that involved rocks and chalk. I remember climbing with this 1 legged dude and he'd dip that one leg into a chalkbag...
I spent many days wondering Plumas Co. looking for rock worth climbing. Not enough snow or climbable rock though...use to get tired of going to Grizzly dome. Guess I was spoiled from my days in Yosemite and the high country.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Apr 19, 2015 - 11:34pm PT
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yep...choss
too bad 'cuz it looks good on first viewing.
Found better rock up around Lake Davis...
edit....420 perfect:-)
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2015 - 11:10am PT
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Who wants to climb at the Sphinx area near Gerlach on saturday?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 22, 2015 - 04:36pm PT
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We are planning on heading out there is weekend but Sat is looking pretty wet right now. Sunday might be a better bet. Will keep ya posted.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 22, 2015 - 05:21pm PT
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I'm planning on being out there both days if possible. Probably do something unheard of; repeat as many established routes as possible with a direct finish to our first one. Climbing with my son Max, but would welcome a third to our party. I didn't get enough affirmatives for the campout, so kinda abandoned that idea for this weekend.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Apr 22, 2015 - 07:05pm PT
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I'm going to pass this time, Dr's appnt next Tues - want to see if there are positive results
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 22, 2015 - 07:20pm PT
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Hey Laine, any new routes by you guys since last report?
We'll miss your company out there Bob.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2015 - 09:49pm PT
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We are game for saturday, weather permitting. Sunday I have to be in Tahoe. Hoping to go camp out there for the weekend some time soon, maybe move a few boulders out of the road. Good luck at the doc's Bob!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 23, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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Rick - Nothing since that orange and black route I did with Tyson and Patrick which I posted up several weeks ago.
I've been planting seeds of how cool the area is in the minds of local climbers (no details though). Given the moderate nature and cool setting, it could actually see some action. Maybe in a year or two we will be ready to do some sort of press release of a tentative electronic guidebook. Tyson is really good at making that sort of thing.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 23, 2015 - 12:40pm PT
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This is a place that I have just re-gained access to, IT Doesn't look like much does it?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 23, 2015 - 01:26pm PT
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& These are the way the camera saw it
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thebravecowboy
climber
Where'd the cheese go at?
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Apr 23, 2015 - 08:43pm PT
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Gerlach sounds sorta like broccoli, but i dig it.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 23, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
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Laine, let's just make sure that Tyson includes the Gnome's and the Cowboy's routes from ranges a bit further east. Perhaps Cosmic can be enlisted to illustrate the twisted nature of the climbs.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 24, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
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First I phoned Cosmic and woke him up to say thanx for sending snow my way in mid-april,
Then I begged extra time to just down-load & up-load, NO photo shop . . . Yet.
whoot whoot ! I was able to climb, ground up - on sight - old school: three placements,In 148 feet.
( I was without any tools of any kind Not even a nut pick )
(Darn-it I did not bring the pinz n' hammer) wait that is after this at the startNice packs?Any one ever use the mom-jeans porta-sack?
my old friend who now says he would prefer to be called "Blind Lemon Jim"
Here is the start This sort of shot I usually post only if there is nothing elseOr asz well there he is in the treesI am really trying, the pics are what they are and I am glad to have them,
here this is pulling through to the middle of the crux: to a stance only ten feet from the top, maybe it will clean up?
( The pictures? probably not, and the route, yeah, it has a death flake that I left and some hollow sounding rock . . . )
the Bulging white outside corner, covered in Lichen leads out of the corner, the moves to the crux top-out - Bullit Hard Pudding Stone conglomerate a number 1 hex and a opposing number 4 stopper, at the lip, stand into the bushes and brambles, Watch out for the indigenous Bottle plants, they grow like that, right on the edge. . .
whaddya 'spect
It is New Jersey!?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 24, 2015 - 09:11pm PT
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After,
the call to that weirdo - Who sleeps anymore?-
The traffic closed in and seventy minutes of white knuckle NJ rush-hour driving ensued, with a lite dusting of snow, not sticking, but making the drive bumper to tail pipe,
This is the Sawmill River Parkway, red lights are announced by billboards, red light notices, 500 feet before the intersection of six lanes funneling into two, fun
Does any one remember, the legend, "Mr Sir", Jack Mileski, and the description his driving in NJ traffic?
People do this every day !!? The crux of the day will be the rush hour drive home mthrfkr Friday !
The rush starts at three and so no way to beat it and when I get home thin rations and no beer!
The blind photographer, wants to deny that he had a conniption and more than once told me
The equivalent of - get down from there & your gonna die , what will I tell your wife?
So
The name; Stress Test seemed to fit. Also this climb climbs right off the base of an old ski slope turned convention hall and park.
The climbing here at this part of the area is the lesser of the crags as far as difficulty but the ease of the approach and the availability of parking along with great view from the family park area, also were part of the name, the climb is center stage in front of old ski area ,
but no one climbs here.
That is to say climbs here the way it needs to be climbed - as in throws up new routes with volleys of 'Trundle Thunder' 5.10/b r, the other part f the Stress Test was to see if we raised any buzz.
The likely hood that the seam had been top roped was not borne out by my search for, moved rock,drift, brushing or anchors , rope cuts thru dirt etc. but the base was clear and the slab start had a very easy step up start. It was 5.7? easy 5.8? Three moments of really don't mess up here, 5.9? It is hard to tell until some more gardening, any-way, very R/X the way I led it but with three pins/bolts it could be G
I left a four foot long 100 pound block shaped like the head of a Marlin. The thing was so loose! that I feel bad that I left it. The thing sits at the end of some thin face moves over hollow rock, and a bit of a stand up Leaves it in your face.
Don't grab it!
The block sits with the spike side blocking good gear, it should go it is a death block!!
(I did not touch it but it is a perfect 'handle bar' hold if you only climb in a gym)
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 25, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
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My son Max flew in from Ak friday night. I had promised him two days of climbing at the new desert crags, but we awoke to a snowstorm this am. This forced a very late "alpine" start, arriving at the crags base at 3 pm after trudging through 3 inches of wet snow. Undaunted we made the coveted (haha) 2nd ascent of Left Crack on The Obelisk via the faceclimbing pillar of Tad's Song variation. A few week bands of snow showers alternated with sunshine. The crags should be good and dry by late morning tomorrow and we'll be looking to do the second ascent of the northwest buttress of the Sphinx whose 2nd through 4th pitches are pictured below.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 26, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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It was another beautiful day out in the high desert, warm even when the wind wasn"t gusting. My son Max and i did the 2nd ascent of the northwest buttress of The Sphinx, but forgot a vital component of the bolt kit and opted not to run out the direct finish.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Apr 26, 2015 - 08:59pm PT
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Rick! Thank you for sharing your adventure with your son. I am impressed that you two kept climbing on what many of us consider a "really-crappy weekend" in the high desert of the Great Basin.
Congrats on going for it! (glad you hit a bar to celebrate on the way out!)
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 26, 2015 - 09:18pm PT
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Worse than that Ron.
Thanks Fritz. We had a good time and the conditions were at least 50% favorable.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2015 - 10:21pm PT
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Nice! Looks like fun. We all have the crud here, so couldnt make it out.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 30, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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Well the SNORT, Seniors Nevada Obscure Rockclimbing Team ( combined age 122 years), was a little busy again in the NV wilds on this beautiful high desert (6500') day. Established the Right Crack route, 3 pitches, 330', 5.9 on the Obelisk.
We also rapped down from the top of the Sphinx and established the stellar direct finish of Northwest Buttress route. This airy 125' pitch climbs out over a huge roof then up the very prow of the buttress, with a little 5.9 near the beginning. Being a little unnerved by the void underfoot i didn't get a clean lead. With stoppers and small cams in the initial crack as well as a few cams under overlaps, and a lead placed bolt midway up the pitch, it has adequate protection. Sorry no decent pic of this pitch.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 30, 2015 - 08:10pm PT
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Tad we are still eagerly awaiting a visit from you. All of these routes we are putting up are just moderates, high quality, and well protected. You'd love it.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 30, 2015 - 08:41pm PT
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Thanks Chim. When are you going to get out there? We could use all the help we can get. There's harder routes out there begging to be climbed. Next week its the Crack Wall ( previously pictured in this thread) which should yield plenty of crack climbs in the 5.8 to 5.11 or harder range.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2015 - 11:11pm PT
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Sure would like to climb memorial weekend; but I'm busy tying the knot. Kinda important, that.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Tying the knot Jonny?
So is this weekends bachelor party thing Is your bachelor party?
At any rate congratulations to you and Brenda.
I might be out of action this weekend. Yesterday on the hike out I felt a pop and considerable lasting pain in the ball of my left foot as I did a twisting motion when stepping down heavily. This morning I can barely walk on it.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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The foot ? Oh no
Planta Fasacia(spelling )??
What shoes were you in ?
Like me were you in untied lite weight hikers?
I took my eleven year old up a trail that he finds stiff and down . At the end of the trail ,with maybe a thousand feet to the car I insisted we stop and sit and breath,Talk a bit let the hart rate slow, take a drink.
When we were rested he stood up took two steps to a rock the size of a 36 inch TV that popped like a molar from its socket and rolled over stopping on the boys legg
Suspension of daddy license and big time time out!
The kid was fine but the rolling talus has been set on edge by the heavy snows and ice till mid March.
Stay careful
Jonnyrig....But if your gonna go get hitched then I'm to late in warning you and kids already may your honeymoon night be your own, with no interruptions from peanuts or crew.
We call ours 'units' but that is just cause they occupy space in a way that reminds us of the futility in trying to bring order to chaos. . .
GOODLUCK!! See that you name a climb for her but make it a name that she likes or picked.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2015 - 07:33am PT
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Yep. Bachelor campout. Just pulled the plug. Both kids are puking this morning. I wont be going anywhere.
Rick, heres hoping that foot is just a temporary discomfort that rights itself by morning.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2015 - 07:35am PT
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Thank you!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Chim Chim
There was a 13 degree difference in
the temperature from the valley to the
climbing location. Remember, 6500 ft.
82 in the valley equals 69 up top.
Not hot at all.
....and that third pitch direct finish,
let's just say that while coming up
second, I thought, holy sh*t, I'm glad
I didn't lead this pitch!!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Wow
Congrats to jrig & Brenda!
Hope the kids feel better soon.
Rick - hope the foot is temporary.
Tad - I don't have plans for Memorial Day
and there won't be any crowds there!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Yeah Bob, thats what I was thinking as I messed up the lead. The void below weighs heavily on the mind in that airy position, for a geezer like me anyway.
Although the first pitch is less than stellar, the direct finish with the high quality of pitch two and three (could be combined with a 70 meter rope) below make this newly aligned Northwest Buttress route into a four star route, at least.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Oh - almost forgot
Rick & Yvonne have taken the time and effort
to improve the location by establishing a
latrine!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2015 - 12:36am PT
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There are easier routes out here.
This was a fun 80ish foot 5.6ish climb that could be top-roped with good anchors and several lines to choose from. Rick did something else to the right on his own, probably 120 feet or so, not sure what he'd grade it at. Point is, a little something for everyone. And this just a 5 min walk from the truck.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
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You know, it's a pretty sure sign your bachelor party is not going well when:
a) only three people show up
b) there are no strippers etc
c) nobody gets drunk
d) you actually remember everything
At least, that's what the weekend was supposed to be... a bachelor party dirtbike riding camping out in the desert hanging out in hot springs rock climbing barbequeing good time.
I f-n give up.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Only two showed up? Hell, I thought I was there too. Must have been an acid flash back.
On another note; Ney emailed me. He's ready to fly some of the boys around. I declined for now-would rather spend my limited time on the rock at this point. If any of you other guys are eager pm him.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 04:56pm PT
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My bad...
Thanks Rick for heading out! I know the single pitch thing isn't really your game; but my buddies there were struggling and bitching their way up as it was. I think the hike down to the other formations would have killed them. Seriously... I had invited about eight other guys.
Anywho... I'm thinking of calling this the Kitty Wall (or kiddie wall?). Those ancient Egyptians had a thing for cats after all... and in honor of my attempt at getting a party going, and the way it turned out, in any event I'll call the new route "herding cats", an 80ish ft 5.6.
Green route on the right of it that Brenda and I did some years back could be called "simple glyph"? Only maybe 70 feet of 5.4, as I recall.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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This is your twisted east coast reporter
the crap that claims it is ' Climber' today
What pansy azz bullshit
they pull up on holds
and go ooow it is dirty, my hZnd hurt
Really?
The kid was being shown gems . . .sixty feet just past vertical
He said oh yeah we've been there there are no lines,
there is nothing to climb,No it is not the Gym or the slicked-out Gunks and yes there is real flora and fauna, good to great rock all short, small rock hell at it's best.
to think that it is summer the heat sucks,and the season of heat for you is worse I'm sure?
Stay Stoked I am so in if the winds blow right I hope you know that ! The wife has threatened to get me a bus ticket so I'm staying put but if she gets mad enough at me to fly me out to, what to her, looks like east hell, then - sign me up.
It maybe hard to stay in Gerlach though . . . .2¢
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Alexander Kirkpatrick
Trad climber
Carson City
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Cool stuff in the desert. Is anyone heading out that way this weekend?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2015 - 09:57pm PT
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Not me; but i heard a rumor...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Yeah, im going out there tomorrow and saturday. You like well protected moderates Alexander?
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Welcome to Supertopo Alexander!
You are more than welcome to join in the
search for obscure climbs.
This Selenite place is a good one!
Bob Pinckney
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Keep up the good work Jonnyrig. Hardly anything better than obscure treasure hunts.
Better than standing in line at overcrowded crags any day.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Two short new routes today with Bob. On the south face of the Obelisk-a steep corner to 5.9 exit mantle followed by easy face. The second was on a 100' formation just east of the obelisk which involved a short crack 5.7 to a classic looking but easy open book to the top. Repeated Left Crack 5.9 with the Central Pillar of Tad start as a bank of rain clouds seemed to quickly approach. Heard a voice to my left from a neighboring ridge as I started following the second pitch- It was Alexander who arrived about 4:30 after a short day of work. Going to be a busy day up there tomorrow with Ney and his wife, Alexander and myself. Sorry no pics today.
Post up Tad. Try to include a five mile stretch from the Selenite summit road to the north.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Couple of photos from yesterday.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Busy day out at the crags today. Alex had camped overnight, I met Ney and his wife Betsy on the way in and drove them the last half mile up the four wheel drive section. Nothing but repeats today. Went two teams and repeated Right Crack and Park Lane on The Obelisk. Then we all four did the Northwest Buttress of the Sphinx with the direct finish, an excellent route. Another day of perfect high desert weather with forty mile vistas. On the way out we saw a guy and gal climbing a 75' craglet to the east. From the look of them and their vehicle I had the impression it might have been Laine and his wife. Laine was that you? Anyway, no pics again; sorry getting lazy in my old age.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 10, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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Yep, we spent the morning catching cutthroat at the lake then drove up around 2. Did 3 routes on that crag and installed a set of chains at the top. The crag was much better than expected. The routes range from 5.9-5.11 and are mostly finger cracks. I'll post up a annotated photo when I get a chance.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 10, 2015 - 09:14am PT
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Good well rounded day Laine, what with the fishing in the am and 3 new routes in the pm. Hey i gave your email address out to these folks i climbed with yesterday. all good and interesting people and all eager to climb with people like yourself who are well versed in desert cragging.
On another note; it appears my wife did get a few pictures. here is one below with us two parties climbing Right Crack and Park Lane on The Obelisk simul.
Laine, im here for eleven more days, wanna go do the central diheral on The Sphinx (should be among the very best on the crag ), or go to the Crack Wall (well over twice the size of your crag yesterday and many more continuous cracks) next weekend?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 10, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
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I'll see what my schedule is looking like but that seems fun. I'd like to camp out there soon if the weather would hold up.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 10, 2015 - 08:32pm PT
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Yeah camping there is great, has good vantage points for sunrise and sunset. Far from any city lights the stars are bright. We have plenty of fire wood and will stock the place up.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 10, 2015 - 08:46pm PT
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You Guys! You're kill in' me!
Holy hay bales !
I actually live near an air port or two and between needing to have hired a plane last month before the leaves came in, and seeing the real new zone - your zone! I am not getting back at it here like I should.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 11, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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Thank you Rick! We had a great time and we'll be back memorial day - sorry that you'll be north by then. Great climbing in a wonderful high desert setting.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 11, 2015 - 10:21am PT
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Alex, you were asking about that super looking granite on the east side of the Toiyabe range - the Wild Granites? Here is a photo from my plane. It apparently is a heinous approach, but I bet this photo will get some folks thinking about going up there. What fine looking granite!!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 11, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
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Here's the topo of the crag. 2 min approach, about 65feet tall. Chains at the top in the alcove. I'll need to install a protection bolt on the 5.11 to make it lead-able. It was my initial line but I back off after I was only able to get in the smallest micro-nut in the seam. Not willing to take a whip on it, instead I went for the hand traverse left and up. The right hand route should only be TR'd. It's a nice way to end the day.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 11, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
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Too bad you don't have a helicopter Ney. That would be the way to stock a climbers camp at the Wilds.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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Dang. Memorial weekend I have a previous engagement that would be really bad to miss, or I'd head out there. I think you'll enjoy it though Tad.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 11, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
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Tad, your GE only shows the first couple miles of the ridge as far as i can tell. I've located some, but by no means all, of the formations climbed and unclimbed in this section. Some of these crags, especially the close to roadside ones, have seen sporadic visitations by climbers over the years.On others like The Sphinx and The Obelisk we have seen absolutely no sign of previous passage. I'm letting the cat the rest of the way out of the bag on this area to drum up a little more interest and hopefully more available partners to climb there with in the future.
Epyptian Ridge Formations
1. Kitty Wall
2. The Obelisk
3. TheSphinx
4. Crack Wall
5. South Buttress
6. Central Buttress
7. North Buttress
8. The Slab
9. Christman's Pinnacle
Also Tad it looks like Ney is wanting to go there on memorial day weekend.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2015 - 08:14pm PT
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I think its safe to just call it the Kitty wall, given the single pitch, close to parking, easy routes available. Works with the egyptian ridge theme, and i,ve no doubt there are bobcats and/or lions around. Toward the south end someone could probably carve a harder sport single out of it if they wanted.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 12, 2015 - 07:59am PT
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Tad-
We are definitely planning to be there Memorial Day weekend and can show you around - we will probably start with the climbs Rick showed us and those are a great introduction.
Do you have a reasonably high clearance 4WD? (like not a Subaru)
Ney
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 12, 2015 - 08:07am PT
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Eat yer hearts out!
Not a good pic but what do you expect shooting through the driver's window doing 80?
I actually got out of the rig to take this. OK, so it is a bit of a walk,
but it's BIG!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 09:03am PT
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Your dodge will have no problem up there, if you're careful. There is one tight turn with a couple protruding rocks to get to the main parking area. Rick and Bob have run the ridge in a better rig, and they can speak to the road conditions beyond; but there's a heinous pile of rock immediately upon leaving the main area that you probably don't want to attempt without a second rig. If you walk 100 yds up the road, you'll see what I mean.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 12, 2015 - 05:16pm PT
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There is one tight turn with a couple protruding rocks
Anyone have access to dynamite? Many of us have drills. Those protruding rocks are annoying. I run in the morning on a canal by a hut full of explosives, away from the main maintenance yard. But I have a feeling it is locked.
Tad - I think we'll try to be there all three days, SSM.
And I'm kidding about the dynamite. I know that blasting these days takes a lot of licensing, permits, etc. etc.
That is unfortunate about the pile of rocks. I was looking forward to exploring further up the ridge. We may have a Jeep with us, but it isn't ours so I'm not sure I should be doing any serious four wheeling.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 12, 2015 - 06:53pm PT
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Tad and Ney, with a couple six foot bars, a few shovels, and three or so strong backs the initial obstacle to the campsite could be made traversable by any 4 wheel drive. The other obstacle a few hundred yards north of the campsite would be easier to fix. With these two obstacles out of the way the entire ridge road could be passed in a subaru.
Im going to stock up the camp with firewood this week. With any luck there should be plenty left for memorial weekend. If you keep the fire low and throw some sand on it at the end of night and whenever you leave it should present no problem.
Bob and John are out of it for awhile. I dont have any confirmed partners for cragging this weekend. Anyone out there that can definitely climb this weekend?
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 12, 2015 - 07:52pm PT
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with a couple six foot bars, a few shovels, and three or so strong backs
I've got a six foot bar and a shovel, but the three strong backs will be harder to come by. But I will bring the bar, shovel and a pick just in case.
Tad - we have a van we sleep in and if like last weekend we'll make it most of the way Friday night and will arrive Saturday morning.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 12, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
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Nice John. Which area of Nevada are those?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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JB- reminds me of a ridge line in the Humboldt range, though i,m betting you,re elsewhere.
Guys, i,m willing to work on that road if we can arrange a camping weekend some time with brenda and the kids, plus someone to help her watch them. I,l bring a bar.g and a winch and comealong. We might spend a day
on the road and one on the rock.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
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2nd at the top of the hill. That third left in the sharp hairpin just over the top takes you to Laine's new routes.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 13, 2015 - 04:56am PT
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THERE IS A KITE FLYING FOOL THAT IS A MASTER ROAD BUILDER!!
A climber of old school bold style and well versed in the rude demeanor of all manner of rabble .
His hardening in the fires of the gang of boozy Czech's of the gunks in the 80's, he is now in the Big Mike Zone.
He was good friends, well traveled and respected, by everyone that gave him a chance.
The things
He Has Been the major hands on builder of are amazing! Highway off ramps in Utah and curving walls of blocks as large as big as SUV's. He also spent
15yrs building trails and roads for The Monk Preserve.(wilderness builds)
I sure drool at the looks and stuff! Your get it done attitude, that stoke that climbers bring when things fall together.
Good luck and BooYHA for what ever gets done, just getting' out there is great !
Good on ya'!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 13, 2015 - 07:26am PT
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If I'm free Memorial Day wknd, I will show up with 4 x 4 rig for day trip. Can't camp
right now, Wife recovering from bad dog bite, needs commisurating (sp).
Will also bring firewood and breaker bars, winch, shovels etc.
Bob Pinckney
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 13, 2015 - 08:28am PT
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How come nobody liked my rocks? I was actually hoping somebody had the beta on them.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 13, 2015 - 08:37am PT
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I like em Reilly. What is their general location? Off hwy 6 perhaps?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 13, 2015 - 09:10am PT
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Rick, go east, young man!
I might have been doin' 90 when I took this 'un...(Really shoulda rolled the window down)
E Kneevada sportclimbers' paradise!
Could be trad or sport...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 13, 2015 - 11:42am PT
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Here's a pic of The Slab, number 8 on Tad's GE image I did the locates on. Might take a solo trek out there tomorrow. Alex was at the base last week and reports clean and bulletproof granite. With any luck I just might have another quality easy to moderare climb to report on.
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john bald
climber
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May 13, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
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Reilly, I do like you pics.
Having climbed on the big one you showed, approach not that bad.
One of my pics is of the same crag you shot from a distance.
Glad everyone is getting after it.
Six days of climbing at six different spots. No climbers anywhere, just an old mormon
stopped by to preach a little.
Last day Ibex was invaded by airplanes partying on the playa.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 15, 2015 - 04:58pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 15, 2015 - 05:50pm PT
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Actually the webcam caption lies, it actually was thurs 39 F with flurries. Had the gear for a solo run on a new route, but abstained
I did, however stock the camp with about 4 nights worth of firewood and will add more. I go out and find access for a major new climbing area, establish a host of quality routes, and add improvements, all pro bono. Who loves you guys?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 15, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
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Ney, Betsy, and it sounds like some of their friends, are going to be there memorial day weekend. Bob said he'd drive up for the day. You should have no lack of partners to explore the area with Tad.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 18, 2015 - 07:36am PT
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Thanks Rick,
Weather is looking good (well, ok), so Betsy and I are still on. Tad - I did get your message. Looking forward to it! - Ney
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 18, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Was going to try to get up there one more time before the big drive north on friday , weather permitting, to climb and drop off more firewood. Looks doubtful now. Have an acute tendinitis flare up in my right hand after doing a couple hours shovel work on clogged culverts on my road saturday evening. Betsy, do you know of any quick and effective veterinarian treatments? Anyway, most of you have Bob, John and Laines email. These guys are all great people, safe and competent climbers and knowledgable of the area after frequent visits. Have fun, be safe, put up a bunch of new routes.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 18, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
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Hi Rick,
Betsy says go to a good physical therapist and they'll probably give you ultrasound treatment with cortisone. Then go to Alaska and don't use it for a while.
Have a good trip!
Ney
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2015 - 09:38pm PT
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All of Ron A.'s contributions to this thread... poof! Like a fart in the wind.
Not that it matters what I think or what I do; but I'm not sure I'm interested in opening up locales on a public forum such as this, for the benefit of people who may subsequently decide that I've offended them, thus condemning my climbing contributions along with whatever "offensive" commentary I may have made. If you want info on any future locations posted here, shoot me a message.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 20, 2015 - 04:11am PT
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The Selenites (Egyptian Ridge) is a great area to climb!
I live in Woodfords, CA. It is a 2 hour and 45 minute drive one way.
I have yet to camp there, have made 10 or more trips to the area.
Well worth my time!
Have plan to show up Sat or Sun (not sure which day yet). Will bring 4 x 4 rig,
firewood, fire ring.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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May 20, 2015 - 06:48am PT
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Wow!
Nice to read you guys are getting it done. I Love Nevada!!
Just read apparently Ron's no longer at supertopo? Please tell him
I'll miss his input on the Woodfords thread and elsewhere - he was always informational and caring and passionate - tell Ron that I wish him the best and hope to see him around!!
Happy climbing everybody!
P.S.
Hey Bob, nice to read you're still in Woodfords. Sure wish we could of hooked up last year at Woodfords. Sure wanted to. Long story short: Life got in the way. But apparently you're getting it done, way to hold up your end, ha! Maybe one of these days I'll have some time to get back into it. Actually I'm sure I will.
Be safe.
Happy climbing!!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 20, 2015 - 08:18am PT
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Dingus,
It would be great if you could make the effort to
get up here, I would enjoy meeting & climbing
with you! There is so much untouched, it is mind
boggling!
Bill
Great to hear you are still around! I know how
that goes with life! Roust me anytime you want,
you will be pleased that I am now an owner of &
am practiced with a belay device - Black Diamond
Guide
Bob Pinckney
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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There are some areas that bear no exposure. Then there are others, like the Selenites, with so much rock they have more than enough for decades worth of exploration. In deciding to share that with the climbing community, I personally felt privileged to participate in something fun and positive. I dont believe such a large area is at any sort of imminent risk of overexposure, so didnt mind sharing with the masses.
Watching how climbing content and history is so easily nuked, based apparently on the offense of a minority of butthurt individuals here, I feel no desire to share any more of these experiences in such a fickle public setting. On an individual basis perhaps, face to face. No more here.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 20, 2015 - 09:50am PT
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I hope you have all our posts backed up John. Be a shame to lose it.
It takes a ceratain type of climber to wander from the social scene of the herd. This Selenite area is in no danger of overcrowding since there is no social scene. Just great rock, forty mile vistas, near absolute silence, night time skies ablaze with stars. Climbing as it used to be before it went mainstream.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2015 - 10:47am PT
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I have not felt the need to back anything up. The thread stays, unless/until admin takes a disliking to me.
Y'all feel free to post as you wish. And, as always, I appreciate the opportunity to climb with you.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2015 - 11:01am PT
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Thanks Tad! Looking forward to meeting you some time. I'm not terribly bummed, I just don't see the point when they play whack-a-mole AND purge good climbing content, as we've seen with multiple personalities here in recent history. I'll be around.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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Dreamliner is not illustrated, nor will it be.
Washoe Zephyr in red, the main central corner. Steppin Out in orange between Zephyr and NWButtress in green.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2015 - 11:04am PT
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I think they are, at least Laine's formation, Kitty wall, Obelisk, and Sphinx. I haven't been to the others, so can't speak about their accuracy. I'm betting those formations shown will give you LOTS of quality time on the rock, as many have route potential well above and beyond what we've already done, at many grades. There are hundreds of other rocks out there from boulders to less than a pitch, all with potential right off the parking area. If we weren't getting hitched, we'd be out there to show ya around. Bring a fair camera, the views are great, and the flowers are blooming. Bring a rain coat too, maybe a tarp to keep rain off. Heard a 30% chance this weekend, which most likely means afternoon T-storms.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2015 - 11:17am PT
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Yes, that's the Obelisk. Between Kitty Wall and Sphinx. I know Rick and Bob established the first route, that starts from the lower left and runs sort of up the arete to the top, with some 5.9 moves up there and a bolt or two. I can't remember what they did on the second that leads up to the golden ledge. You'll have to ask Rick or Bob. I think they may have established a third route too; but again... I haven't been available for much climbing lately, and haven't kept up with so much going on at home.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 21, 2015 - 05:41pm PT
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I'm going this wknd.
I'll be there Sat AM.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 21, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
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You and I, John, put up a route there also. It goes up the narrow pillar between Left and Right Cracks and finishes via left crack. Tad, we called it Central Pillar of Tad. About 120', 5.6, with three bolts and several stopper/cam placements. You'll love it and the first ten feet of the second pitch is the only 5.9, the rest including the third pitch no more than 5.6-7. There are several other routes not on John's topo and not on Tad's list.
I just might delay leaving till sunday to avoid some of the Memorial day crowds at campgrounds. If so, and If my hand is less screwed up is there any if you I could tie in with on saturday?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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I was giving you guys the credit Rick. Hope you all have a blast!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 21, 2015 - 06:15pm PT
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Of Course! (Tieing in & having a blast)
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Alexander Kirkpatrick
Trad climber
Carson City
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May 21, 2015 - 06:17pm PT
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Here are a few treats from my trip out
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 21, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
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Okay, from what I gather Ney and Betsy are going to be there saturday morning, Tad 5-6 pm. So Bob are you coming out saturday, what time? Are you going to be out there Alex, if so when?. Laine are you coming out?
Actually Alex. Your picture shows the north side of Sphinx Nortwest Buttress. That and your previous pinnacle picture are great shots.
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Alexander Kirkpatrick
Trad climber
Carson City
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May 21, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
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So i am trying to get out there early Sat and leave Sunday after climbing.
looking to round up a partner before heading out.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 21, 2015 - 07:10pm PT
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 22, 2015 - 04:58am PT
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I am planning on arriving Sat AM, camping Sat nite,
& leaving Sun afternoon around 3:30 to 4:30 PM
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 22, 2015 - 07:36am PT
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You'll enjoy the camping out there Bob.
I really wanted to get out there climbing one more time with you good folks before leaving. Yesterday I started normal use of my hand again while doing chores outdoors at my place. Unfortunately the tendonitis (self diagnosed) worsened over night and the resulting swelling and discomfort tells me climbing now is not in the cards
Hopefully I'll be bugging you guys to go out climbing on a return visit sometime over the summer.If not then, then next fall. Good climbing to all, be safe,
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 22, 2015 - 07:58am PT
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Same here- have a safe trip and get well - we need you
back in action again!
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 22, 2015 - 08:49am PT
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I did a recon flight yesterday on the Egyptian Ridge but it didn't work out very well. I started early, but the clouds were already building and it wasn't safe to fly close enough for good photos up on the ridge with the cloud layer mere feet away.
Still, I was able to get photos of the some of the lower climbs, and also the big peaks.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 22, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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Here a couple of crags identified by Rick previously:
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 22, 2015 - 09:00am PT
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ARGH! Get on it!
Wishing you all a great time from small rock hell
(with no desk top to post a photo )
But
You all know
that I would show fresh rock,
it is the season!
Now if I can just find a 'willing to go off grid' partner. . .
WAIT ABIT. . . . .
And wtf as to some zzz hole not wanting content?.. In a page or two I was away like what a second in ST time?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 22, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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Good pics considering the conditions Ney. I think that is the central buttress. The three pillars of north buttress show up good in your photo. Its not to bad of an approch from the next road pass past the camp. Could be a few good two pitch routes up the faces of the pillars.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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May 22, 2015 - 09:55am PT
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Removed by request.
Yeah, yeah, internet freedom censorship etc…but it's about respect for fellow climbers.
Here's a teaser from a few years ago (but long after the FA), Karin following Land War in Asia, Inconceivable Wall. FA 9/21/97, location remains undisclosed…
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 22, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
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Considering where the photo was taken, I bet not…
And where, sort of, was the photo taken? It looks like fun.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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May 22, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
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Removed by request...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 22, 2015 - 02:05pm PT
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I was going to say it was from the Granite wilds main crag summit. Anyway it looks like there is plenty of spring water in that drainage. Clear an LZ Greg and I'll look into chartering a chopper.
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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May 22, 2015 - 04:25pm PT
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 23, 2015 - 09:47am PT
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Saturday morning 9:45 am Memorial day weekend. For those that haven't left yet for the Egyptian Ridge, it is rainy and fogged in. yuck. Here is a photo:
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Alexander Kirkpatrick
Trad climber
Carson City
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May 23, 2015 - 09:53am PT
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Thanks for the update! I will hold off and head out tonite or Sunday morning.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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May 23, 2015 - 11:32am PT
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Ugh! Thanks for the heads up. We are headed out near there today. Motorhome does not like the mud. Guess it will be an afternoon of mountain biking in the mud instead of climbing. Hopefully the weather will improve tomorrow.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 24, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
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Just got back from the Egyptian Ridge area.
Arrived Sat at 8:30 in the morning. Pouring
rain. Brought firewood, fire ring & tools to move
rocks. Did some trail maintenance.
Tad showed up Sat afternoon & we sat out the rain
& watched the fire. Sunday was sunny and nice.
We set off about 9 to hike over and climb the Central
Pillar of Tad. All went well, and even did the direct
finish! Hiked back, and left around 2. Laine arrived
with a friend Sunday around noon.
Bob Pinckney
[photo
id=412003]
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 24, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 24, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 24, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
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Good job Bob. You're efforts are not only key to establishing a great new climbing area , but you go all out putting in campground improvements. Where are the public service awards?
Bob, by direct finish do you mean of the Northwest Buttress of Sphinx? What do you think after doing it a second time, more like 5.8?
Tad, sounds like the weather was terrible, but once the rain parted what did you think of the rock and area?
Laine any good new routes?
Camped south of Missoula tonight. Should be at Lake Louise in Alberta tomorrow.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2015 - 11:14pm PT
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Well, we couldn't make it out this time. Pressing engagement and whatnot. We had our fair share of rain here too; but the wedding went off without a hitch. The little kids enjoyed the heck out of the puddles, and everyone had a great time. Thank you for the warm wishes and gifts. Never thought this would have happened twenty years ago. Hope to see y'all out on the rock soon.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 25, 2015 - 12:22am PT
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We had our fair share of rain here too; but the wedding went off without a hitch. I thought getting hitched was the whole idea.
Congrats!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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May 25, 2015 - 07:24am PT
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Congrats to all that persevered in getting out & climbing during a stretch of really wet Great Basin weather & especially to Tad, who drove a long ways knowing that the weather was going to suck.
Special congrats to johnnyrig on getting hitched!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 25, 2015 - 08:34am PT
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Congrats Johnny you both look very happy!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 26, 2015 - 07:06am PT
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Not much to report from sunday, Rick. Repeated your northwest route on the Sphinx. Though we might have started a bit further down in a low angle chimney. We attempted to get to the first roof right of Washoe zephyr but without a few protection bolts it proved much too runout. Instead I followed a natural line to the right of the roof. This takes you to the west face and then the top of the formation. Pretty basic but still a fun, full 60m pitch of 5.7. If repeated I'd recommend breaking it into 2 pitches to reduced rope drag.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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Glad you had fun up there Tad.
We had our own fun elsewhere. I'm afraid it's been too long since the better half got out to climb; but she enjoyed it and wants to do more as our limited free-time allows.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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May 27, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
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Hey Greg,
Please remove your pictures of that wall in the wilds it has been climbed. Some things don't need to be on the internet.
Sorry to get all Brian Law on you.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 08:04pm PT
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Do you own it?
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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May 27, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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I don't own it. The forest service does. You spray like a cat.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 09:01pm PT
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Then go click a different thread.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 27, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
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Johnny, if you have ropes, I would immediately put them in sealed plastic containers. Long story..
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
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Better yet...
Go click on the forest service website. Take the time to whine and complain to them about allowing public access to public properties. Tell them how overcrowded and abused this place is causing the unfettered wild lands of the country to become. Demand restrictions to access, restrictions on activities (such as climbing), and limitations on just exactly what people can say about their participation in outdoor activities they can spray about on the internet. I think that would be an invaluable use of your personal time.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 27, 2015 - 10:04pm PT
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No teaser about your route out at the wilds, Scott? Bummer. Heard it was decent. Stoked to check that place out.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 28, 2015 - 01:59am PT
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Please remove your pictures of that wall in the wilds it has been climbed. Some things don't need to be on the internet.
Sorry to get all Brian Law on you. Damn. I thought the Washoe were weird for all their "Women shouldn't even look at Cave Rock when they pass" crap.
Johnny, send me a text or message next time yer gonna be in the neighborhood. Minutes from the house.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 28, 2015 - 03:56am PT
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Angry dwarf . . .five Phuket ?
Hey,Scott Thelen
In Utah I know of a few remote crags you Fkckr,t, try and stop me
see you on the project !
That is what I was first thinking then I just had to laugh,
Well so it is a locals only thing?
Sadly if any one cares Every stupid stone I post needs more climbing and exposure not lessIn Utah I know of a few remote crags you Flickr, try and stop me see you on the project !
Scott Thelen, that still seems t make me feel better but
I see that in deference to good sense,
you all believe in Some sort of hypocrisy :
Post
Edit
Delete
Rinse repeat
Remove. Hustle cheat lie deceive
After trying to be different . . . .
And
Scott Svcks,
I do not care who he is
Freedom starts with knowledge!
I strive to be free. . . .
Those of us who are different,
Scott, I know the feeling and it is hard to watch the easy way this next gen will get to find the quality without putting in the time you did in finding your way but post instead, crow of . . . - - thnx for the memories. . . .
Enough of that . . .
We salute your Wedding JRiG
Rain is good luck, long lived marriages start on rainy days good on you for hanging in here
If there is some more to spat or spray and if time for you to post is limited get in touch
Try this, for some help getting this 'out there for all' out from another covert thread!
Go post under "sparks to flames, , , ,. . .i may post a link . .
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 05:48am PT
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Thanks Gumby, will do. Figured someone would recognize that.
Like your web page, by the way.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 06:47am PT
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Dingus & Scott
How selfish can you be?
Trying to keep areas to your self?
Get over it.
You both can continue to try to tell us what to
do or what not to do, it's your free time; but
I will continue doing what I want to do irregardless
of your feelings!
Have a nice day!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 06:48am PT
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That is a nice way of saying Fu*k Off
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 06:49am PT
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Its as easy as not being a dick.
I ask about ownership, and the snarky response amounts to "f*#k you". Yeah, that generates some love, doesn't it?
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 28, 2015 - 06:52am PT
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This thread has many photos of the Granite Wilds, so it isn't one photo. In fact, one of the photos Scott asked Greg to take down was actually mine that Greg reposted. After I took that photo from a plane, it didn't take me long on the web to find out what it was, that it had been climbed, etc. I don't agree with exposing everything - Rick and others kept the Egyptian Ridge location under wraps for some time and I respect that, but the Wilds don't seem to be a big secret on the web.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 08:09am PT
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Obviously, I don't own it. Apparently Mr. Thelen has some reason to request the picture be removed, and that's fine. In asking about ownership, I seek to establish whether the area in question falls under private ownership. If that is the case, then it would be entirely appropriate to request the removal of that picture from this thread. Since it falls under forest service control, the matter of public ownership allows for public use; and Mr. Thelen's objection becomes nothing more than a personal request, for personal reasons.
"You spray like a cat" is condescending and disrespectful. It generates a similar response to your own when questioned about various aspects of your own climbing escapades, to wit: F*#k off.
There are numerous areas we've NOT posted here, yet; and, subsequent to the removal of some forum members and their climbing-related content, I've openly stated that I have no intention of relating the location of any further development of these obscure areas on this forum, a point which I'm now reiterating. Should I occasionally post a picture or two, it would be with the intention of sharing some excitement and appreciation of remote climbing possibilities with you, the climbing community.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 09:35am PT
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Have a nice day.
Go climb something.
Post up or shut up, either way. Whatever.
Not everything makes it to the WWW. Same as waterfalls, decay, your favorite coffee house, climbing with kids, or whatever the f*#k you enjoy doing. Some things we keep private, others we post for others to appreciate. Or not.
We're here to enjoy it, and that's what we should be doing.
L8r.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 09:52am PT
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Dingus:
Its about respecting local ethics. And local ethics say 'don't publish.'
Bob:
and how is Davis, CA local to Gerlach, NV?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 10:03am PT
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http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-wild-granites/110087262
How about this: Include your "local ethics" with a picture of your "local crag" so there won't be any question about what those ethics are.
Can we let it rest now?
Climb. Isn't that part of what we're about?
Post. Isn't that why we joined a forum?
Don't post. It's your prerogative.
Enjoy your life, and enjoy sharing the experience. Negativity blows.
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son of stan
Boulder climber
San Jose CA
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May 28, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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Despite the long history of book burning mobs around the world,
I can't quite see a guide-book burning party in the REI parking lot.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 10:17am PT
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You want climbing content?
This thread is climbing content.
Now, STFU.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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OK Dingus,
It's time you post up a link proving this.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 10:30am PT
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No answer from Dingus because no proof!
Only his and Scott's opinion - 2 people total,
what a huge consensus!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 10:37am PT
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Dingus makes sense:
Posting to a climbing thread on a website that
earns revenue publishing climbing Topos, suggesting, telling,
whining, that we not post about new climbs & areas!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 11:35am PT
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The thing is Dingus, you've made your point
known over and over and over again.
At this point, it is Bullying
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 12:21pm PT
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Not ego, but history for me
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 28, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
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. . . . . in 35 yrs. and never said anything about those crags and climbs until I became aware of a recent guidebook effort that had the history, ethics and FA credit wrong. I made the personal choice to share my history and beta so the complete story could be told.
That my friends IS THE REASON TO RUSH TO PUBLISH!!
The Current way it goes is for the new crushers to re name the entire zone and all the formations and then expand the history at the same time as getting that history dead wrong.
we are having hail and thunder storms so I have tried to finish this despite loss of service sorry,
I was dead against and by my self out loud against the stuff closer in to Las vegas being posted and I died on that sword,
Real for Reals DMT, have you ever stopped in Winnemucca? Never mind Gerlach!
inhttp://www.mapquest.com/us/nv/winnemucca
&
Never mindhttp://www.mapquest.com/maps?city=Gerlach&state=NV
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 12:40pm PT
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Exactly
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 28, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
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One problem with keeping things hush hush is that others will discover them and they may not be so quiet.
I had heard of the granite wilds and someone once told me where they were but I never checked it out and forgot where they are exactly.
SO some new folks find out and say something.. the OG asks them not to publish.
A lot will depend on how well the OGs present their wishes. Being cool and polite about it and explaining a bit of the history can go a long way.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 28, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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Back to some climbing content. I had to fly to Salt Lake City today and I swung by ER because my last photo trip really didn't work out well.
Here are some decent photos of the previously disclosed crags. Note in the spirit of non-disclosure, I have photos of three crags not previously disclosed so I'll hang on to those. (click on photos to make them larger)
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 28, 2015 - 08:35pm PT
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Many of you last heard from Betsy and I when I posted a photo of us stuck in the mud last Saturday. And there we sat until Monday - but luckily we got some climbing in.
We had arrived early Saturday morning with the Egyptian ridge hidden in clouds and rain, so we headed out towards a low angle pinnacle that I had seen from the plane during my recon flight a few days before. We got stuck in mud and eerily ended up in the center of a cow roundup in the middle of a field. A cowboy and his dog came riding over and we were feeling guilty that we were stuck in the middle of the jeep track, but he was only asking if we had extra beer. He ended up with wine, which I felt bad about because he surely thought I was a wus not having any beer.
We hiked up to the formation Saturday and spent the day with our dogs Bodie and Ande hunkered down under rocks in the rain watching water pour off the face. But what a face it is! We picked out some lines and went back to the mud-bound van for the night.
We got the van stuck again on Saturday evening and freed it after almost two hours of work, and then decided to just leave it in place until Monday when everything was hopefully dry and we could drive it out.
On Sunday we put up two probable new routes on the face. The first, High Desert Solitaire, starts on the left side of the face, a bolt protects some 5.9 moves up into a right leaning 5.6 crack.
The second climb, called Visions of Empire, is a face climb up the middle of the face, 5.7/5.8. Note it takes a full-length 70 meter rope to rap from the roof/belay.
We are absolutely biased, but they seem like nice routes.
Alex Kirkpatrick drove out Saturday afternoon to investigate our stuck van and to make sure we were OK. Thank you Alex. He ended up camping with us, and we all did the big hike back up to put up a third new climb called The Hourglass, 5.7 with maybe a couple of harder moves. From the top you can rappel down through a notch and end up at the bottom of the face/crack climbs, where Alex led the routes we put up the day earlier.
For getting almost hopelessly stuck in the mud, it turned out to be a fantastic climbing weekend!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2015 - 09:25pm PT
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Fantastic pictures Ney. Nice FA's.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 28, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
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We bought a plain white van. Betsy designed the interior and I did the exterior (graphics, heavy duty suspension, off road tires, lights etc.) Sportsmobile built out the interior and did a great job. We are having fun with it. 4WD just came out and they are just starting deliveries, but we couldn't wait. I actually have traction sleds which would have helped greatly last weekend but I thought I would only need them in the winter so they sat in the garage. They will now live permanently on the roof.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 29, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
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Been in an internet blackout for the past week as we drove through Canada in route to Alaska-roaming data charge avoidance.
Glad you enjoyed the crags Tad. Your, and others, enjoyment is precisely why i (at least) have shared location and limited beta here. Dingus and Thelen's secracy and drama queen freak show be damned.
Ney, good climbs and room for many more on a crag we've so far have been mum on location details.
Congrats again John. I liked the wedding pictures of yourself and your beautiful bride.
Well, that's all for now-tired of pecking left handed while on pain releiving prescription narcotics. Probably have to have surgery on my primary paw to regain something approaching normal usage.
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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May 29, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
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Funny how Dingpuss insists on sharing his squirrely little crags whilst posting endless selfies, has the audacity, even the temerity, I mind you, to attempt to deny someone sharing some real quality climbing content, claiming some arbitrary ethics clause, when some of his earlier posts, (albiet other threads) concerning retro-bolting and route ownership, refuse to accept "local ethics" at all. William Faulkner
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 30, 2015 - 11:44am PT
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This is a guide to all the secret climbing areas of Nevada. Hopefully I didn't leave one out so I know I've pissed off as many people as I can.
Actually I just flew to Salt Lake City and back and zig-zagged around to areas that caught my interest. If did catch a truly secret area just let me know and I'll delete that one. Otherwise, it seems like if someone wants to put in the effort, go for it.
This does show there is truly a lifetime of climbing in Nevada. For most of the these areas I'm only showing one photo of many. Also, note that the GW are within plain view of a paved road - they really are not that obscure. Some of these are definitely off the radar.
I'm still confused as to how one would know if it is an under-the-radar-kept-secret-for-decades-don't-dare-publish-on-the-web sort of place?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 30, 2015 - 03:55pm PT
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Wow, that looks great! I wish I lived a bit closer.
Good to see Tad on the rocks! and congrats to all you locals.
Edit. Good to know a Sprinter can get in there, just in case I get a hankerin'. Here is mine in AZ.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 30, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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NEY,
WHY DO YOU CONDONE THE REMOVAL OF PERSONS FAVORED ZONES??
It is not an easy or sought after thing that we here are sharing , I come from the Land of CLOSED TO CLIMBERS and if ever there was proof that having the history right the current Rock & ice has the Joe "I cut down a tree so what" Kinder story where they and he try to re-name Cascade crag, some other name and try to claim that destroying nature in a place where a tree to cliff climb already existed was the right thing to do and not that big a deal.
PLEASE POST UP EVERY ROCK OUT-CROP YOUR CAMRA CAN PRODUCE!this sits off the road in plain sight all winter.No One else, in the last ten years.
Although some one dismantled my anchor and used half of it in a death rig top rope :
using one strand of suspect webbing to one tree growing out of the cliff ,
to top rope a crack that eats gear and is all of 5.10. (NOT Pictured)this last picture is taken from about the same location of the shot that appears on the other site with a big(0) for number of routes
I have lead routes and am trying to link the moves on the face that is on the left side, in this picture (there is some distortion, for-shortening) .
The hanging arrett?
on the left sky-line? the pure, best lines need bolts
and some crusher of the finest kind
not J KINDER PLEASE.
and the routes right of the crack/hole also are pure gold for the east coast.
tradmanclimbs,
hey,
what no response?
you are welcome to the next first ascents.
hey,
Danna B?!
hey,
fear?!
hey
any one .
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 30, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
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Dee - Nice Panorama!
Gnome - I understand both positions but I don't have strong feelings either way myself. I actually kind of want to post and view climbing content on this thread and not argue.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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May 30, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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That's what I wanted to do too!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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I agree with Ney. I'd rather keep the climbing up and leave the arguing elsewhere.
Like your sense of humor Ney, that far end of the E.R. area looks promising. Was that second picture out by Lovelock? If so, that's probably limestone, and a killer hike to get there. There's another area without such a killer hike and possibly longer routes out there, if someone wants to explore some possibly worthless rock with me some time.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 31, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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That second shot is west of Battle Mountain somewhere. I can probably zero in more if you really want to know, but I doubt you do...
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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Full thread copy/paste as word doc's. Original thread as well.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
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I like that idea a lot. We're planning several trips with the kids this year, so hopefully by then we'll have the system dialed, such that Brenda can come along and get some climbing in. She expressed an interest in having me build a crack machine at home so she can train! If nothing else, maybe head up your way for a tour of some north country.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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J-Rig and Tad,
That would be great - I would enjoy meeting both of you. Maybe a dry weekend too where we could actually drive up the pass. I just bought an air compressor for the van. I've been told I wouldn't have had as much trouble had I deflated the tires.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
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I need a pack mule and a babysitter.
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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Jun 11, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
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Ney, Think I've been to one of the paces you flew over.....Saw it on a bike ride in '90, came back 10 days later with a box of bolts. Lesson is, always touch the rock before you convince yourself that you discovered the next City of Rocks.....Climbed one pitch, left a back-off piece and never returned.
Last week, solid virgin rock up to 4 pitches in height:
In '85, I told the Kid about the amount of rock in NV, he asked if I wasn't too worried about keeping it a secret, would I tell him more. I laughed more than any of us could climb in a lifetime.
Good way to find Rock:
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 11, 2015 - 02:35pm PT
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He bangs iron I hope you don not totally disapprove? They are opening routes the way they want to! The way it was the way it is and the way it will be! I hope to get out there and go ground up with my 23 pounds of gear if you want, you should grab at the chance too.
Now,!
on to
Oldfattradeguy2!!
Ho
Of course you have
you mofo !;)
Good to know that you still have an eye for this it has me fully sucked in too!
The quality will come after the routes see some more climbing traffic.
Tell tales of the Pamegat here the zone is reawakend you know, I wish that you could see it five to fifteen parties out there in your shire!
Peace Leeds.
Bontique far from there and then again may be not that far.
huh.
If rgold spells it bonticou, and I am addressing the holder of the doctorate that was gained by the knowledge of its formation I had better spell it that way too.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Sorry to sounds so dickish!
It is now too hot here in small rock hell !
and I post at the peril of being as big an azz as ekat thinks I am.
oh well
I'm not the lizard I used to be.
Take a bit of time some time and look back at this amazing saga it has the roller coaster feel to it. And has descended in and risen to lows and highs of the taco ,
JRig I've been wondering about that, good on you, this, your labour of love is fully appreciated!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
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Ha! I'd die of old age before I made it up a complete aid pitch at this point. I've gone waaay overboard on ebay. I figure this way I can afford to forget a piece now and then as I thrash my way up the choss.
Some day I'd like to go after a wall. Clean.
Meanwhile, now and then, I practice things that will either get me into... or out of... serious trouble. There are other strange and precarious ideas stuck in my head. Rapping into canyons with gold pans, then getting back out. Finding caves nobody's ever seen. Communicating with my children through the teenage years...
But, I'm realistic. Haven't found a cave, and wouldn't disclose it if I did. The amount of gold I've found so far wouldn't fill a thimble, although I thoroughly enjoy the prospect(ing). Exploring new rock and putting up easy-to-moderate routes, with the odd bolt or fixed pin as appropriate.
Anyway, here's my latest aid practice, at a bouldering area. I don't think this thing goes twelve feet; but I tied a couple slings into ladders and slogged my way up with nuts and cams. Blew a #1 fcu and the 5mm prusik caught me. Coulda got a headache there from a whopping 8ft up.
And one of my someday-project areas, conducive to panning. Prob'ly shuck a few pins down there somewhere getting out.
Honestly though, the wife would prefer me to give up this climbing thing and build her a compost bin, some shelves, a den, and remodel the kitchen.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Jun 11, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
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'Communicating with my children through the teenage years... '
Ah hem...good luck with that one Johnnyrig.
lars
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Jun 11, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
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Dang, I want to go back out to ER or to check out some other areas but it is now getting so hot out there. Could climb at night and sleep during the day but much easier said than done.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jun 11, 2015 - 06:10pm PT
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Yo Jonny. Exciting to see all that gear. I'm getting seriously low on the pins I bought from you-we've left lots of them fixed on our mutual new routing ventures( sixteen new routes with you and Bob over the last fall to spring season) out in the NV void. Perhaps I could buy more to justify your ebay shopping fetish. Just a thought. Another thought is to bring Yvonne along next year and we can all trade off baby sitting duty so Brenda and all can get in some climbing.
Why no new routes to report from you all over the last two weeks? EDIT: Not meaning you JRig, was asking Bob, Laine and crew, and to a lesser extent Ney.
Ney, concentrate on the west faces early am to noon, then switch over to the north facing aspects for pm. If you do this it should be tolerable even on a 90 degree day down below in the valley.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2015 - 08:56pm PT
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It has been wet and rainy here, we,ve been to Sacramento, the wedding, etc. Havent had time to get out.
Brenda's game for a campout when you get back, and im sure i could part with a few extra pins.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 11, 2015 - 09:30pm PT
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What ever dude
your time is not worth it but what ever that post is about ,
Seek help.
It stands to show who you are. . .
I can sling it but why ? This is a great thread that your bothering
I said I was heat stroked. . .
The things that you said:
Farouk
Boulder climber
Sylvan Grove
Jun 11, 2015 - 09:16pm PT
and I post at the peril of being as big an azz as ekat thinks I am
Your a bigger azzzzz than that turd bucket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Leave the real climbers alone and go back to your dumb_azzzzzzzzzzzzzz retarded sh#t on the other retarded thread with the other retards you retard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nawmean????????????????????????????????????
No what is the spew of letters speak English before twisting. .
Come out and climb with me any time !
In fact tomorrow I have something to do but other wise any time
Any time I climb your welcome to join me
I just closed down a puppy mill run by your brother Ahmedabad
So bring it you 'efn hole, man whore piece of . . . slick 'n greasy?!that is you right!
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jun 12, 2015 - 06:04am PT
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Whoops north fork of kings
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2015 - 08:40am PT
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Anyone ever bother with this short stuff up above Hobart Reservoir on the east side of Tahoe?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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Well, Rdog, if you're not doing anything in a month or so, maybe you'd like to ride up there and put up a few lines with me? Pretty much guarantee they'd be less than a full pitch. Can't seem to get out of the f-ng house to go climbing these days, so I figure in a month or so it might be possible to take a half day near home to see if I still remember how to place a nut.
Or, you know, if someone else wants to go...
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2015 - 07:21pm PT
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Aug 12, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Aug 22, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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Sounds good Tad. How about a mid September weekend camp/climb trip? How many of you regulars are up for that?
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Aug 22, 2015 - 11:47am PT
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Unfortunately we are out most of September (and all next week) on vacation trips so we'll miss that. We do expect to get out there this fall sometime. Some cool weather climbing sounds wonderful out there.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Aug 28, 2015 - 07:42am PT
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Count me in
In the meantime, I'm doing laps on
"It's Better with Bacon"
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2015 - 08:15am PT
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I have a wedding to go to mid-september. I'll have to check dates; but no guarantee I can make it up to climb anyhow.
How's the hand Rick?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Aug 28, 2015 - 10:46am PT
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Looks like Bob and I might have the place to ourselves again.
How's the hand? Coming back slowly. Right leaning cracks like Park Lane where you are primarily jamming with the left hand and augmenting with face holds with the right would be just the ticket.
Of course repeats lack the thrill of discovery, but i'm sure in those tens of square miles there are new routes perfect to write our names on.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2015 - 11:58am PT
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Glad to hear it's healing. I'm in the midst of classes now, gearing up to fix my other house and get it on the market, and generally booked up pretty solid. Climbing is sporadic, at best. Let me know when you plan to head out, and if I can make it I will. No promises.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Aug 28, 2015 - 08:24pm PT
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Sounds good Tad. Let us know when in oct. In the meanwhile we'll do a little more exploration in sept.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 28, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
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Lost Horse Canyon Near Goblin Valley Utah.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 28, 2015 - 09:04pm PT
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Two routes now. 4 people on top ever, likely. :) about 700 ft face
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Aug 28, 2015 - 09:21pm PT
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Nice work Vitality. Also to the older gents... keep up the good work.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Aug 28, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
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Great job on all the new routes on the big stuff in the Sierra's Vitaly. Your routes make our little crags look anemic, but somebody has to do them.
Ok Tad will let you know. As far as Oct. goes-if one or more of you guys can organize all interested parties for a trip that would be very good. I've tried a few times with varying schedules making turnout little to non existent. I'm free pretty much any of the time on pretty short notice so I could work with whatever dates are chosen.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Aug 28, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
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What a cool thread - I just love the way this whole thing has played out - with the hook-ups, the stoke, the shut-downs-turned-awesome, the strange and the unknown.
Keep it coming.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 30, 2015 - 01:25am PT
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from the armstrong pass thread
We hit this up recently, but only the dirty corner on far left and stuff on the back. called it the buddha cause it looks a bit like a sitting buddha (and fortress was already taken)
Lots of cracks going up the center to the top. The rock quality down low on the front and lookers right side is good. Towards the back it fell apart when you looked at it. Not sure how it would be high center but i suspect good. You would probably need a some webbing and a biner or two to rappel off the back but we didn't investigate that too closely.
As I mentioned in that thread, it's a bit of a hike in (5 miles, 2,200' elevation gain) but there is still a rope and set of nuts up there if anyone wants to get after it. let me know and if i'm not going i'll pm you the whereabouts of the gear.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 30, 2015 - 10:23am PT
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Obscure rock get together ,
I See, oh man that's so cool
Can only hope though
Egyptian ridge tee shirts???,,,!!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 30, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2015 - 11:43pm PT
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Yeppers. I can make either of those dates. Might even accidentally convince the family to go. Still got enough gear after the purge to make a run at it. Will bring some elk burger.
"I climbed a Sphinx with SNORT in BFE Nevada"
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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I'm in, but please let me know soon if it is the earlier date because I wasn't going to come down till about oct 10th. No problem with the 3rd-4th, I just need to know.
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
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Putting it on the calendar. I suspect a wooden picnic table might not last terribly long in the Nevada outback. Things have a way of becoming unfortunate targets out there.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Thumbs Up here!
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couchmaster
climber
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What a great thread. Love seeing you dudes getting on new rock and new routes in the wild and wholly. Great lines for having to hunt and peck at it. The only part that sucks, and it sucks big, is when you are talking to Ron Anderson, and as all of his posts and pics got whacked (deleted), we are left wondering WTF!!!!????
Anyway, good to see some here still get on the raw stuff and get it done. Nevada climbers rule.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Hey Guys,
We just may make it - trying to move some things around. To my knowledge the Aretes on the following photo have not been climbed and I've been thinking about it since the spring!
Should be fun!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Thanks for putting this together Tad. Should be fun; tall tales and idle banter around the campfire at night and new routes as far as the eye can see during the day. By the way, Bob and I did a route up the prominent corner and crack system of the crag in the picture you just posted.
Ney, those aretes look cool as does the crack system on the sidewall.
Hey Frumy-is that crag in Idaho?
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The Chief
climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
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FRUMMY... How can you classify (EPC) as obscure. Even in your photo there's a paved two lane road with power lines going right up to the base.
AH.. too much gym time. I get it now.
Carry on.
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MikeMc
Social climber
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Never got up to this, but I drove by many times en route to visit family in MT.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2015 - 10:58pm PT
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Good looking rocks in the posts above.
I believe the wife and kids may join us on the trip.
Just need to flip the axles now.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Sep 13, 2015 - 11:50pm PT
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Perhaps this would be a good time to return your books. Work is closed and I typically don't have the minis those days. What's the feeling on dogs?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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Dogs that don't bite are welcome. They have plenty of space to run around, bark, chase rabbits, and be otherwise.... dogs. We'll probably have ours with us.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Sep 14, 2015 - 10:31am PT
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Starting up a new 3 pitch deal.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Sep 16, 2015 - 01:36am PT
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Sep 26, 2015 - 01:41am PT
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Nice stuff Hooblie.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 26, 2015 - 03:00am PT
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Not sure why I didn't say what your fearless cowboy said that's my kind of geographic anomaly
Small rock hell, th middle of everywhere
Thanks you Hooblie!
Excellent
And
Inspiring
any spires to climb out on the Egyptian ridge? K'leopatra's Needless?
Can you tell a grown man wants to cry for choices made along time ago!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2015 - 07:19am PT
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Hooblies got game!
Gnome, you busy next month? Hooblie? Bravecowboy? Come on out and join the fun.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sep 26, 2015 - 07:59am PT
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OK, I'll stick my neck out and make an executive decision that I hope works for everyone!
SNORT Presents The First Annual ER FEST Climb n Camp Oct. 24-25
I'm in
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2015 - 08:55am PT
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Weekend of october 24. Looks like you got the rig for it Dingus. Robbers Roost out of Smoke Creek? Got lots of chukar up there. You go as far as Cedarville? Lots to see along the way, and some good hot springs.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Sep 26, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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Definitely DMT, and others,
would enjoy your additions to the
get together!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Sep 26, 2015 - 10:21am PT
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I'd love to make it out for some of that goodngravy granite, but I'm purt well lashed to the study-stock for much of the fine fall weather.
Still though, I get my lovely local little tidbits
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Sep 26, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
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We might be in the vicinity of Egyptian Ridge the fourth weekend of October (something not to far from there has had my attention....) and might show up for a bit of climbing, exploring and camping.
Here are a couple of (very poor quality from a cell phone on a dark, overcast day) photos from when we were passing by Egyptian Ridge over Memorial Day Weekend. Beautifully desolate country out there.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
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Sent a few emails out to those who may or may not be around the taco these days.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Sep 28, 2015 - 06:20am PT
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Bump
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Sep 29, 2015 - 07:16am PT
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SNORT Presents The First Annual ER FEST Climb n Camp Oct. 24-25
Wives, GF'S, friends and families welcome.
BYO: Booze, Food, camp chairs and Stoke.
IN List:
Tad +0 (Mo can't go. :()
J-Rig +3,(wife n kids)poss. 2 more?
Rick +?
Bob + 0
Ney and wife
climbski2 +?
adventurous one +?
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Sep 29, 2015 - 07:19am PT
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Campsite condition as of yesterday!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 29, 2015 - 09:06am PT
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You guys should go climb these obscure gems! Lots of new route potential and no lines on the existing lines ;)
Great season for obscure rock.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Sep 29, 2015 - 10:17am PT
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Vitaliy - Those are some amazingly enticing photos!! That's an impressive amount of rock in some of those photos. Have yet to get down there (So much great climbing, Yosemite etc., that must be passed up headed south from Tahoe to get there) but those photos just bumped it a bunch of notches higher on the to do list.
Back to Northern Nevada - It's looking more promising that Nancy and I will be able to stop by the ER Fest and campout for at least one of the nights (maybe more depending on how motivated we get for my nearby climbing/exploring project) on our way to our primary objective of the weekend.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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Ron says "No.."
Laine will probably come.
Ty has other obligations.
I'm sure if anyone else wants to join in, you can get directions from one of us.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Sep 30, 2015 - 06:40am PT
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Don't really post here much any more but this sounds interesting. What part of Nevada?
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Sep 30, 2015 - 07:43am PT
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Monday was a nice day to go climbing at
the Egyption Ridge area. Rick was ready
to test the carpal tunnel surgery, and I had
recruited another rope gun - Emily. Left
Woodfords at 7:15, met Rick at the McDonalds
in Fernley at 9:00, made it to the Selenites
around 10:15. We decided to warm up on our
favorite climb - the Central Pillar of Tad - 5.8.
Emily stepped up to the plate, and lead off.
Emily was on a roll, lead the second pitch, and
Rick brought both of us up the third and last pitch.
We had lunch while looking at the climb Park Lane
5.9. Continuous awkward right leaning crack and
face leading to exposed and spicy moves higher.
A typical Laine Christman classic, one of the best
routes on the Obelisk. Emily, feeling brave,
headed right up, did fine, and decided to lead every
pitch!
All in all, a great day! We pulled out around 4:30,
and a few miles down Hwy 447, we pulled in to
check out the Purgatory Boulders. 200 acres
of quality boulders. Right below the Purgatory
Peak climbing area.
Tad - metal fire ring gone, same would happen
to a picnic table
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2015 - 08:09am PT
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Ty posts up here sometimes. He and Laine have climbed together, and though we've talked about it, haven't had the opportunity.
Bob, looks like you and Rick are tearing it up out there. Also looks like Emily enjoyed the trip? Glad to see y'all getting out!
We're bringing a trailer, and as such will have to camp somewhat below the regular parking area. No way it will get through the rocks. Hoping we can all agree on a central area...?
Incidentally, chukar season will be open by trip time. See any birds out there?
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Sep 30, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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Emily said she would smiling for days!
Rick and I were wondering about your
trailer Jrig. I said if anyone would try to
pull it up to the top, it would be Johnny!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 30, 2015 - 08:41am PT
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BUMP For stoke
And there is ... A top rope cliff full of 5.12's & up that is across the high way - as the crow flys from the Wendy's parking lot roughly.- The walk starts at the park & ride at s23 at the south bound East View exit. This is the park & ride lot that is closest to the paved walks along the ponds/ reservoirs the twin ones.
Walk, away from the water, turn left back up the paved trail parallel to the hi-way,
till the 'worthwhile' (large enough)
but highly visible, rocks,
between the trial & hi-way appear. ..( I can't/ won't guess distance ... . e-device )
There was a tornado in this area that left a scar going uphill if you can spot this head over the slabs allowing for elevation gain over the top of the ridge, then down the back hillside to a wide carriage road.
WHAT IS THIS ? Why don't I add it where it belongs ? You ask , I can't seem to remember enough of the locations location, they are all in upper west jester NY that was auto correct but to trespass to climb is A drag, That said, the climbing there is amazing if you can find it avoiding the TICS little bugs that bite, and make you very sick. the key? anyway I don't think it can be posted . , .mmm private Rockefeller lands.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2015 - 10:49am PT
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Good looking rock Gnome.
I gotta flip the axles on the trailer first. I think top of the ridge above Christman's crag there would be fine, but Brenda will kick my ass if I break our trailer. I'm going to bring some aid gear though. Maybe take a look at some roofs...
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sep 30, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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Cool.. Aid belaying sounds just about my speed right now. Perhaps I can tend the BBQ and inspect the beers for quality at the same time. You will probably be ok.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Sep 30, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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That sure looks beautiful...
I wonder if I can borrow Dingus' van for an adventure...
So much out there that I saw and want to know more. Thanks for the share, and hope to get up there!
Cheers
LS
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Oct 19, 2015 - 07:02am PT
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Bump, for this weekend
The Sphinx, Stepping Out, 5.9
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 19, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
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Toproping today off hwy 445. Steep volcanic or metamorphic, 3 lines in the 5.9 to 5.10 range. My son's GF climbing.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2015 - 11:52pm PT
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Looks like fun Rick!
Brenda's going to miss seeing your wife at the campout. Glad there should be at least a couple other ladies there she can talk to though.
I took a deer out on the north side of the mountain, out past Unionville where you poked around the end of the road. I think there's some decent granite, though short, on the north side if a guy's willing to hike, still would like a closer look at the south side.
Here's a shot of another range a little further out as taken through the binoculars with the cell phone. Looks worthy of an outing to explore it, anyway.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 20, 2015 - 07:32pm PT
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Bob and I made the pilgrimage to The Crack Wall today. We found a quality line to the right of the big chimney/gully and suited up. Just as we were about to start I found a military style ring angle driven up under a flake at the bottom. I belayed 155' up on a good ledge with plenty of available
anchors. Bob soon joined me and we decided that because of the gardening and trundling of a good sized block that the climb showed no signs of previous ascent and we had pulled off yet another good FA to compliment the growing total of excellent Egyptian Ridge routes. We named it Geri Atric and asessed it at about 5.8. Bob scrambled upwards looking for a rappell point or walkoff down the short backside. After 10 more feet Bob called down that he had found an established rappell anchor consisting of a stopper, long ring angle, and #2 cam- so much for our FA.
Anyone out there willing to step up and claim authorship of this climb? The anchors are recent, probably within the last month or two.
Bob has the pics, hopefully he'll post them.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 20, 2015 - 09:54pm PT
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[photoid=432116]
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 20, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2015 - 06:19am PT
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Not mine.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 21, 2015 - 07:26am PT
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Atop the first, and more logical belay ledge, I had convinced myself that the bottom ring angle was a trappers anchor. After discovery of the top anchors, and considering the bottom ring angle ideal for a upward pull, then the fact that the block directly in the climbs path that was ready to fall at a hares breath, I came up with the idea that the route had been done by a rope soloist. A soloist, who's rope would be in peril by the block going both up and down, could not afford to trundle this menacing block.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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It's an odd menagerie of pieces, which at first glance appear to be connected only through the cable loop on the stopper. When I look closer I see the ring on the piton serving as the main point. Where the pieces all connected as pictured prior to your arrival?
Maybe worthwhile to ask on Mountainproject as well. Sounds like Ty and Laine had made a trip out some time earlier this past year to investigate the roofs, maybe they left it? I think they put up a two-pitch somewhere out there, not sure where. Thought they were not so much in favor of leaving fixed pieces though... Laine maybe headed out this weekend, so will be able to ask him.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 21, 2015 - 09:18am PT
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The stopper and ring angle were connected by a quick link, the cam had a wire gate biner. I didn't think Laine or Ty liked using pins.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 21, 2015 - 01:59pm PT
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Hey folks, wanted to chime in on the anchors. Not mine, I would never leave behind cams like that. I'd place some rap bolts or leave behind some webbing. Perhaps it was left by some folks who read this thread and were itching for an FA?
Unfortunately I won't be able to camp but am hopeful to make it out there on Sunday.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Oct 25, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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Photo of cam before:
1 lobe frozen, 1 lobe 1/2 range of motion
yellow plastic scraped away
yellow sling nicked and weathered slightly
Photo of cam after:
lobes all working smoothly
black plastidip over yellow plastic
yellow sling removed, ready for reslinging
Will return if owner can be located
Oddly, Rick and I traversed right, 5.3, and
walked down, no need to rappel
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 25, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
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Nice work Bob. Sorry for your wifes medical difficulty that couldn't allow you to make it out to the get together at the Egyptian Ridge.
John and family, Derek, Tad, and John and Nancy made it. The weather was heavily overcast with a chilling breeze that made the low to mid fifties Temps feel pretty cold at times. Despite this John and I put up a new three pitch route, 5.9 A2, starting in a long classic jamcrack , the second Crack left of the toe of the buttress. Not having wide cams to protect the upper fist/off width we traversed right out onto the prow of the buttress 70' up. Another 60' ended the pitch at the first belay of Northwest Buttress route. From here 60' of 5.8 face climbing on the prow brought us to a vertical to overhanging, left slanting, thin finger Crack which necessitated about 15' of aid (Would probably go free in the 5.11-12 range). John belayed 40 feet higher. Another short pitch of easy face brought us to belay 3 of NW Buttress Route. From here one can either continue up the prow of the butress via NWB direct finish or step left and finish via the original 5.9 corner with the fingercrack.
This morning was even colder than saturday so I brought John and Nancy on a partial grand tour of the Obelisk and Sphinx. Meanwhile John and Derek explored south of the saddle and discovered a new and easily accessible single pitch wall with some quality rock and future routes.
All in all it was great to see my buds John and Derek again and to meet Tad, John and Nancy for the first time. John and Nancy were stoked and we have another trip planned in the near future. Thanks all
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 25, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
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Rick leading pitch 3 of the above.
John at top of P2
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 25, 2015 - 06:36pm PT
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Oh yeah, almost forgot. While unloading the truck I found a Black Diamond harness with a grigri, atc, cleaning tool, and several locking biners. If the owner will let me know I'll get it back to them as soon as possible.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 25, 2015 - 07:02pm PT
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Yeah it's mine. No worries no rush, when you get back sometime will be fine.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Oct 25, 2015 - 07:47pm PT
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oo-la-la
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2015 - 09:38pm PT
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Tad, thanks for putting it together. Had a great time, and good to meet you. Hope we see you again soon.
John and Nancy, good to meet you too. We'll get on some rock one of these days, maybe drop that canyon. Who knows?
Rick and Derek, always good to see you guys. Good times, and good stories. I'm sure we'll get together soon.
Y'all who couldn't make it, we missed ya.
Looking forward to the next get-together.
Oh yeah, I am in possession of a jacket someone left over toward the Spinx. Tell me what color it is, and I will get it to you. Was not left on this trip, as Rick found it on the approach Saturday.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Yesterday, the high temp at ER only reached 42. In spite of this, and the trudge through snow on the the approach, the conditions were perfect in the still air of the south faces. Two short new routes, the first pictured here was approx 130', 5.9. The second was on the Sphinx upper south face ( first Crack system left of John and Laines off width ) was 110' 5.7. If the storms continue to roll in this might well be the end of the season in the Selenites.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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Took advantage of a beautiful fall/winter day in the Selenites to put up two more routes with Rick. 42*, but comfortable in long sleeves on the sunny southern exposure, avoiding the snowy northern faces. Two new routes, in the 100ft neighborhood 5.easy with some harder moves, and both with chimney-ish features. Overall, lots of fun on desert granite.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 09:43am PT
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Yes, there is potential for a number of new lines. Most look like easier routes; but there are some lines we saw that, though only in the 100ft range, would definitely present enough challenge to keep the younger crowd busy. Bolts recommended for some.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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New formation have a name yet?
Hockman's Escape kinda rolls off the tongue.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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I hadn't given a name any consideration. That one sounds good.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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The football is on I'm not watching, Eagles vs Cowboys Dallas up 7 - 0 at the end of the first 1/4, I've let my beer get warm taking in all the stoke!
I'm looking and thinking this is so cool !
The ER and all older boys refusing to grow up just climbing fresh stone and yuking it up! It is a long way away from me and in some ways not far at all. Not to tall and the drive in is real but doable? I've got the bug seeing it all and I will ask to get a reprieve to figure out how and who to hook up with to get to the Egyptian Ridge.
I want to get there next spring and it will be this gthread that I look at instead of eating desert
I need to lose weight all winter and get my arse out there this spring , I can't wait.!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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I'm looking for a partner for ER south face of The Sphinx formation anytime in the next week. I spotted a long and classic right leaning finger Crack from the route John and I did a few weeks back. I'll scope the conditions of the road and approach tomorrow when I go up that way looking for Chukar. Any takers? Post here, call, or email.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2015 - 11:11pm PT
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Let me know when you find a partner. I *might* be able to sneak out there, if it's before next friday.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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I'm scoping it tomorrow John. So far no recruits. Bob is out till his wife recovers. Might try Laine or Alex. You wouldn't be playing hooky now, would you?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2015 - 06:22am PT
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Classes are finishing up. Proctored one final yesterday, another on monday. Next week I finish grading and have a couple meetings to attend, hunting elk the following week.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mostly cloudy up there today with 34f temps and a stiff breeze. No snow except for the darkest recesses. Despite the low temps once the sun came out in wind sheltered areas it was quite comfortable. John let me know which day works for you and hopefully it will coincide with a sunny low to still wind day. The birds were a little spooked today. Got off 3 shots but the 100+ yard range and my rusty aim didn't connect.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Great you guys are getting after it! Wife's surgery
is Dec 11th, + 6 weeks recovery. I realized it would
be the perfect time to get my Kaukulators resoled.
I sent my shoes to Barry's Resoles, should have
them back right about when my wife has recovered.
I have also reslung all of my old cams! In the
meantime, I will keep lurking on ST! Good Cheers
to All!
Bob Pinckney
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2015 - 07:38am PT
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Rick, I will send you a message today. I'd like to get out there if possible.
Wishing your wife a speedy recovery Bob. We'll get out and break in the new soles in no time! Hoping to get my wife back on the rock next year as well, maybe some of the easier routes at the Leap or Tahoe, or even out there close to you guys?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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By my count we now have 17 routes on The Sphinx and formations within 100 yards of it. With very few exceptions, all these routes have been moderate, well protected, bullet proof rock without any need of cleaning, and follow classic features. Still probably another 30-40 routes to go, but most of them are going to be more difficult. Lot's of highly featured face climbing to be done. Might soon be time to break out the drill gun.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Really enjoy this thread. Thanks for posting all!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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If you like the thread Vitaly maybe you should join us out there on the rock. The place is frequently climbable in winter when your Sierra walls are buried under ice and snow. Most of the remaining lines will take someone of your talent.
Yeah Tad, don't tell Phillo, he'll want us disarmed.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Feb 10, 2016 - 03:48pm PT
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Shoes back from Barry's Resole!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 10, 2016 - 07:54pm PT
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^^^^^ Time to burn some of that new rubber. Saturday ?
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Feb 10, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
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Always good to explore and make new moves
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Feb 11, 2016 - 06:09am PT
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Dome of the Rock, Saturday sounds good!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2016 - 07:58am PT
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We all met at Ferntucky (aka Fernly NV) at 9am. By noon, we had passed OJ's new digs, hiked the killer approach through ice and snow, a new (pot farm?) fenced-off, enormous, steel, windowless building, multiple-no-trespassing-posted new gate, and were basking in the perfect February sunshine, no long-johns required. Turned out to be around 60 degrees, so we ditched the cold-weather gear and suited up.
The route had previously stymied us, due to the cankle-snapping base block below the 9+ schmeery-lie-back-on-kitty-litter-cruxy-boulder-start. I suppose we could have gone super-oldschoole for the double-shoulder-stand jesus nut placement; but it somehow seemed more appropriate to pull a true ground-up 1st ascent, in good style, and just gofer it. All 10 feet of it. (Though in reality it was probably 6 ft. Guys overestimate, right?) Besides that, Bob had fresh resoles so I had to, or he was gonna blast it. Cause we all know new shoes won't make you climb better; but resoles will make you a rock god, and Bob was on fire!
I'm going to have to rely on Rick and Bob to fill in the details on grades and length; but overall the whole thing, bottom to top, is I think in the neighborhood of 400ft and tops out under easy conditions that drop around the 5.5ish range, though the majority (discounting the 9+ start) is in the 5.7 range, with mostly good pro on fantastic granite, with a couple short runouts and some kittly litter stuff in between. We swung leads under perfect sunshine and light breeze. You couldn't ask for a better day.
Made it back to Ferntucky around 5pm. Given the details of the route, the timing, and the conditions, I would like to propose a name for this route: Freeballing 9-5. Thoughts, gentlemen?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2016 - 08:21am PT
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yes, downloading...
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2016 - 09:16am PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2016 - 09:21am PT
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Some stats:
415' old school 5.9
Pitch 1: 140'. A spot for the the leader is advised till they get the first pro at 15' above an ankle breaking pile of rocks at the start.
Pitch 2: 75' 5.7.
Pitch 3: 200' 5.7 to the top of the Rock or 170' to a walk off.
Incredible winter day. Not a cloud in the sky and perfect high 50's to low 60' on a very sunny face. Yeah, Bob was on fire. Fess up Bob- you have to be cheating by practicing at the rock gym.
EDIT: ST instructions say you can upload pic files up to 8mb, but I can never get anything over 5mb to upload. Any suggestions from the crowd? Free balling 9to 5 sounds good.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 14, 2016 - 09:25am PT
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Nice job guys, you know how to have fun!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2016 - 09:05pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 14, 2016 - 09:55pm PT
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No biggie. We'll get that little section of Crack next time we repeat the route. With our penchant for new routes that will be about never.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 15, 2016 - 07:36pm PT
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nice work guys, rock quality looks pretty agreeable!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 20, 2016 - 05:36pm PT
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Had another great day on the south face of the Sphinx with Laine Christman. Sunny, very little wind, ambient temps never exceeded 45, but at times with the solar sw and reflected lw radiation it felt quite toasty-certainly shirts leave only. Did a great new route Twins Crack, handjams, finger jams, liebacks and face, 125' in the 5.9 range. Laine had some stoke going for toproping so we then did a pair of 110' crack/faceclimbs. One that laine did but I declined to try involved a 5.10-11 overhang and the other a 5.9 jamcrack/faceclimb. Both good routes but in need of leads. Finished up by running up Day Tripping which is a moderate classic. Below is a pic of Twins Crack.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 20, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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High on the second pitch of Day trippin. Four star moderate classic on Sphinx' south face.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2016 - 10:17pm PT
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Nice!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 21, 2016 - 09:08am PT
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I like the spirit y'all have, very fun looking things happening in Nevada.
I'd like to check some of it out when I get up there.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 21, 2016 - 03:29pm PT
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Any time is the right time Blue. We need all the help we can get. Literally decades, if not centuries of quality new climbs to be done on the 30 mile ridge of the Selenites; some sections just for the hardiest of souls who don't mind death march approaches, other sections with easy 15 minute jaunts to the base, and still other lesser pinnacles and boulders you can literally drive to the base of.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 21, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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If you like the thread Vitaly maybe you should join us out there on the rock. The place is frequently climbable in winter when your Sierra walls are buried under ice and snow. Most of the remaining lines will take someone of your talent.
What town are you guys close to? I'd be happy to meet up and go climbing. Fear the drive is a long one from the bay area...No natural talent here that's for sure, but I do like to climb to the point that I don't think about it only when I sleep. :)
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 21, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
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A loosely associated group of friends strung out on the Sierra eastern front from Reno to Woodfords climb there Vitaliya. My place is NE of Reno about 20 miles, and exactly 78.1 miles and 78 minutes from the easy approach Sphinx/Obelisk parking. Come on up, should be a about a 5 hour drive for you. Drag old Ed H along for good measure. Will show you around to routes I'll never be able to do. With a few notable exceptions it's just cragging, no where near the size you've been racking up, but good rock in a great location.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 22, 2016 - 12:23pm PT
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Glad I was able to get out with you, Rick. However I worry if we let Vitaliy in on the goods there will be no more climbs left after a month. ;)
On another note, I heard from a good friend some folks were getting their feathers ruffled by all the "new" activity out in the Selenites. The details were vague but suffice to say, according to some unnamed historian, its all been well trodden out there. Regardless of an FA, repeat, or simple tick, its quite adventurous fun in a beautiful place.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 22, 2016 - 03:40pm PT
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Laine, I wouldn't worry much about all the routes getting done and lines forming at the base by hordes of the standard type of possible incoming outside climbers. I've been inviting climbers out there for 3 years now and other than those that post here (about a half dozen) nobody else has managed enough stoke to actually climb out there. Additionally,in more than thirty trips to the range I have yet to encounter any other climbers other than those I already know and some boulderers at Limbo's base. Then again, Vitaliy isn't the standard climber as evidenced by his ravenous appetite for new routes in the Sierra back country. So Vitaliy, the historians, ghostly apparitions of climbers past, and the few active locals ( i guess myself included) now respectively request you not climb out this pristine range.
Don't worry though Vitaliy, I've found at least 3 other good mountain ranges I can bring you to.
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Gary
Social climber
Where in the hell is Major Kong?
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Feb 22, 2016 - 07:17pm PT
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Sure seems that somebody is having too much fun. This is a great thread.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 22, 2016 - 07:26pm PT
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If I make it out there, it would be more for the hang, than climbing the place out. If I wanted to put up new routes with short approaches, I'd drive over to Mt. St. Helena area in the north bay. I'm sure there is plenty to work on there. But I like to keep the ratio of miles to pitches higher than any sane person would prefer. :) anyway, I'd be happy to do some sort of a weekend supertopoer meetup. The more people from the forum can come the better. I can do my best to bring Ed. I see him at the gym sometimes.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Feb 22, 2016 - 07:28pm PT
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I'm just kidding around about V. His vision for routes would be a great addition.I think it's great there is so much interest in this area. You are right, Rick. A few lifetimes worth of lines are out there. I dare say the facing climbing will likely rival the cracks in terms of steep pulling. I look forward to having more folks enjoying the goodness.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 22, 2016 - 08:22pm PT
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You may be just kidding Laine, but I think we should keep Vitaliy blindfolded and wound up only for the very most killer approaches. This guy is a whirling dervish and if unimpeded could disturb millions of feet of delicate virgin cliff eco system as he lays waste to FA after endless FA.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Feb 22, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
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I haven't posted in this thread but I appreciate all the stoke. You guys are doin it the right way out there..
V - come on up to st. Helena anytime and the north bay crew will show you the classics and some new stuff.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 26, 2016 - 06:03pm PT
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Looking up at a to be done first pitch of a 450' buttress at undisclosed ER location. An easy 20 minute all downhill approach and an even easier 15 minute downhill and sidehill descent to the car parking. Like an adventure?
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climberevan
Mountain climber
Gardnerville, NV
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Feb 27, 2016 - 07:58pm PT
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Hi all, I've been lurking around & following this thread for a while. I'd love to get out to the Selenites & elsewhere at some point to check out the remote walls. I did a big dirtbike loop around NV last year & found all sorts of amazing rock, and it only whetted my appetite for obscure climbs. How does one go about hooking up with you guys? I live in Carson City.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2016 - 09:10pm PT
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PM me or Rick, Laine too. We're all local. I'm in Carson too. They're just north of us. I'd be happy to meet and chat, and we can probably carpool the next run from here, that is... next time the wife lets me go. Right now my household's down with the flu and I'm mired knee-deep in prepping an albatross of a house for sale, so I'm unable to get out when I'd like. Other than that, it's all good.
As far as unnamed historians getting their feathers ruffled, maybe it's about time they step up and name what they proclaim to be already done. No evidence of it exists, or at least none's been found. There's so much rock out there I, for one, would be more than ecstatic to give a wide birth to any formation on which "it's all been done" in favor of sending new FA's on any one of the other hundreds of lumps of useless choss out there.
Step up. Claim your history or let it crumble like the dust of so many vast ranges of rock lain to waste in the annals of Earth's countless eons.
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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Feb 28, 2016 - 07:19am PT
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Working in central UT West Desert, might have to expand this thread to the other side of the state!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 28, 2016 - 09:39am PT
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Yeah, post up Oldfattradguy 2. Are you talking Utah or eastern Nevada? I've checked out the eastern state a bit and found lots of big limestone. Would be good to see some pictures.
As far as remote NW and central Nevada. Lot's of all kinds of rock. Little sign of previous activity.Ron and i saw some old rap tat on the Trejo slab. Saw some bolted limestone routes in the Humboldts. There is some toprope tat on a few lesser ER pinnacles that are easily accessible, Limbo has some sporadic history starting 40 or more years ago, same with the Granite Wilds, but the vast majority of medium sized crags that take some exploration to figure out access have no signs of previous activity. That's not to say somebody visited them and did a route or two, but certainly there was little to no development
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 28, 2016 - 09:55am PT
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OH LALA!! looks a bit wide , at least up through the middle but who can tell sitting to far away. Im all sorts of Jealous....
And the overhanging Face and cracks on the right Hand side, up high! WOWZA!
That I would call "The Gnomes Divorce" (TGD)
dreaming ....Dreaming BIG for me....
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 20, 2016 - 09:49pm PT
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Had another stellar day at Egyptian Ridge on Saturday. Rick and I finally had the chance to climb the corner system that splits the Spinx down the middle. The warm weather meant climbing in the shade would be preferable so we headed down the north side of the formation and around to the toe of the Sphinx located on the west side. Looking up the route, which is the most obvious line on the wall, it takes a direct line to the summit. A massive roof halts upward movement on the final pitch but it appeared that it is possible to avoid the feature and continue to the top on the right side.
Overall we were stoked on the quality of the line. Clean cracks and great belay ledges made this a four star route. Note there are a few blocks on the route I would avoid at all cost. Below is a description of the route.
3-19-16
King Tut
5.10 3 pitches
FA Laine christman and Rick Sumner
P1- Climb up easy rock to a left slanting hand crack. Traverse the arching crack and lieback to easier terrain (5.9). Continue up the corner to a stance below a large roof. Step over onto slick stone and place gear in the finger crack below a short, steep section of face, right of the main corner. Fired the finger crack utilizing a hand crack in a flake that's up and right (5.10). Watch the flake though, as the point of attachment looks minimal. Belay at the ledge via two pins and small cams.
P2 - Continue up the stellar finger/hand crack in the corner to a massive roof (5.9). At the roof follow a hand crack out the right side of the roof. Belay at the ledge.
P3 - Continue up the corner into an off width. A #6 is needed to protect this section. Follow the crack trending right. Gooding jamming in a chimney/corner leads to the top. Belay using finger sized cams.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 20, 2016 - 10:41pm PT
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Stellar Looking ,
Great to see you getting after it.
I said it Before. . .
the climbing, the positions,
it has so got me, still,
Hhaha X s everywhere, I used to feel obligated
X marks the spot . . . Yeah, corny but .,. .
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 20, 2016 - 10:43pm PT
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On a crag with many a quality climb this one stands out as one the very best. Certainly it takes the most striking line with the lone exception of the yet to be done double roof route. This route was done in pure style; no preinspection, no bolts, no falls, with Laine firing it with little hesitation and artfully placed protection points. I kind of think there is a couple 5.10 sections at the bottom and top of pitch two. Now that this cherry has been picked I feel the best routes within my ability have been done and I can move on to other (unknown and untrodden crags) equally good nearby formations without regret of missing a great fa. Thanks Laine.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 21, 2016 - 09:34am PT
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Jeff.... Not Nevada
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 21, 2016 - 03:48pm PT
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Did you get those shots with a drone Jeff Constine? Awesome angle.
By the way the op says nevada and elsewhere. Obscure crags anywhere I think are appreciated.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
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Nice job gents. I'm a little jealous. No worries though, plenty of lines to go out there.
Ain't just Nevada... there's stuff off the beaten path everywhere. All are welcome.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 21, 2016 - 09:01pm PT
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John, left of Tut is Tut's Mama and Papa-the two sidewall cracks between Tut and NW Buttress. They've got your name written all over them. Also, that new crag with the mega classic crack system, bigger than the Sphinx and just as good of rock.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 22, 2016 - 12:22pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 22, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
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Anyone repeating King Tut should use extreme caution at the "use at your own risk" flake at the top of pitch 1. I don't recommend using it for protection or pulling on it in any other way than via handjam. I examined it fairly closely while Laine was establishing belay 2 and I could have, and probably should have, trundled it. This section would still go without the flake via a left hand pinky lock and lieback maneuvers in the 5.11 range.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 23, 2016 - 08:24am PT
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It would be a shame if that flake came off (and dangerous for anyone below). I'll inspect it a bit more next time. Perhaps an epoxy job is in order.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 23, 2016 - 10:18am PT
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Scrappy Crag here.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 23, 2016 - 02:43pm PT
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That's right Laine we talked about it. Would take a large quantity of epoxy and perhaps bolting and chaining it to the wall for an extra measure of safety.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Four of us made it out this past Sunday to the Sphinx and climbed Steppin' Out, King Tut, Orange is the New Black, and Washoe Zephry. On King Tut, my partner and the other team both opted for the loose 5.9 alternative section to gain the pitch 1 belay station. This involves stemming straight up the corner then moving horizontally right to the belay ledge atop pitch 1 rather than moving right onto the face and pulling the slick 5.10 underneath the belay ledge. While a bit easier, much caution should be used going this way.
I also inspected the flake/crack that protects the 5.10 crux of K.T. just below the pitch 1 belay and it's actually quite solid.
The Sphinx formation is now equipped with two rap stations that, with a 70m rope, will get you down to the base of S.O / K.T. To do this, approach the top of Washoe Zephry, set an equalizer on the bolted anchor and rap down to the ledge at its base (35m exactly). Move left to another rap station (with rings) that takes you down to the base of the formation. Climb a route to the summit and clean your upper anchor set up.
Cheers,
Laine
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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A little bit of Saline appreciation, it's starting to get a little too warm or at least it will be in the next month or so but I am going to try and get out one more time.
That last photo also shows Monkey Tranquilizer, 5.9, it takes the obvious crack system on the right side of the picture. First pitch takes the shaded off width and the second takes the hand crack off the ledge. Two raps to the ground from the top. Bolted rap stations.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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I drove up 376 from Tonapah yesterday and was amazed by the Wild Granites.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2528821&tn=120
They are somewhat more extensive than previous posts show, although the best is clearly in the middle.
Just to the south is a whole other group.
And lots of challenges another few miles north, although the rock doesn't look quite as good.
I had driven up to the old mining town of Ophir, a few miles to the south. Although the road is a steep 4-wd challenge & fords a small creek about 6 times, it wasn't dangerous. Granite on both sides of the canyon, but I didn't have any routes call out to me. Anyway I was there to see the old mines & ruins.
Ophir's boot hill is at the mouth of the canyon, but apparently was a popular place, due to the great views.
In fact people were "dying" to get in there.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Good job Laine. The rap approach probably saves 15 minutes of time threading your way down through the fourth class boulders to the base. So, you did four of the best routes all in a day, now which is the best on the rock?
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Apr 11, 2016 - 02:42pm PT
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My daughter may be moving to Boise to go to school next year. I been going up hwy 95 for years and may be going more often. Always wondered about climbing and wanted to camp up in the range just east of Hwy. Can any one shed any light on this area.
Thanks much,
Jeff
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 12, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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Yea, it saves you at least 15 minutes if not more -- plus you don't have to bring any approach shoes on the climb (tho I know you don't anyway, Rick). The main benefit is it is much less dangerous than walking around. I know Tyson can attest to the treacherous nature of that deproach. Let's not forget about how it also protects the delicate ecosystem out there.
I'd have to say the best rock from bottom to top is on Washoe Zephyr. That thing is soooo clean. A great lead for those looking to get into off-width climbing. Nice job on that one, John.
Edit - The best line overall is King Tut IMHO. That dihedral pitch is intimidating from below, but a pleasure once you're plugged in.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 12, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
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Some pile I will work on this summer.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Apr 12, 2016 - 06:14pm PT
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Thanks DMT. No reason to go where the Sheep go, just put up your own deal.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 12, 2016 - 07:24pm PT
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Sweet routes, Jeff!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 12, 2016 - 07:51pm PT
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Exactly my thoughts Laine. We must protect the delicate desert eco system and keep from spilling blood all over the place on the deproach. Haven't done Washoe Zephyr yet-will have to talk John or Bob into it someday and maybe add a lower pitch up the chimney offwidth thing just right of the start of Stepping out. Keep up the good obscure work guys with new routes are far as the eye can see.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2016 - 09:35pm PT
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It's all looking good. Thanks Laine, hope we get out there again, maybe this summer. All you guys posting here are nailing it!
I just signed paperwork to list the house. Then, while working baseboard around the new carpet killed another live f*g bedbug! FML. So, tomorrow I'll be calling the exterminator. Again. The next two weeks will be finishing baseboard, cleaning, hauling trash, then painting the exterior.
So, you know, if anyone's bored...
After that, I might get out of the cage once or twice to go climbing this year.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 15, 2016 - 10:38am PT
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Revised topo of the Sphinx, Egyptian Ridge, Selenite Range NV
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Apr 15, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
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On my way to the Saline Wall we took a little detour and stumbled upon this wall. It's probably 150'-180' high and a quarter mile wide. It's in the Inyo's near Cerro Gordo.
Is it limestone? it had a very course rough texture and is bullet hard. Looks like some fun crack climbs as well as face.
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Chossboss
Trad climber
The GNAR
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Apr 15, 2016 - 04:32pm PT
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Batrock, that looks like some sweet varnished limestone!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega
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May 11, 2016 - 02:29pm PT
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Can anyone tell me about this? Who/when/details? It was the anchor of a short sport route I ran across in an obscure part of Nevada. Two other routes in the area on velcro-like stone.
Thanks in advance, and feel free to PM me.
Jerry
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega
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May 11, 2016 - 03:38pm PT
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Where in Nevadastan was that anchor?
You've probably been there: Way out a dirt road, past the wild horses, split left just beyond a small outcrop, climb up through the pinion and juniper forest till the road ends. Walk up the hill, farther than it looks, to a cliff that was shorter than you thought, only to discover that you weren't the first, and its probably not worth it, but you are here, and so were they, and the time to climb is now, so you do, and you have more fun than you imagined.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2016 - 06:41am PT
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Way out a dirt road, past the wild horses, split left just beyond a small outcrop, climb up through the pinion and juniper forest till the road ends. Walk up the hill, farther than it looks, to a cliff that was shorter than you thought, only to discover that you weren't the first, and its probably not worth it, but you are here, and so were they, and the time to climb is now, so you do, and you have more fun than you imagined.
This is why we're out there, isn't it?
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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May 16, 2016 - 09:00am PT
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not the most prickly bit of az
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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May 16, 2016 - 02:32pm PT
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Ground up 5.12 rig, south Sierras. Masada 5.12b
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 17, 2016 - 08:26pm PT
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Obscure and Elsewhere
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GoVertical
climber
Stamford, CT
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Jun 10, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
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Wow! This thread is great. Kudos to all of you guys getting after it and finding these gems in the obscure reaches of Nevada. I'm inspired—especially by those photos of the Wild Granites, which I was ashamedly unaware of until just now.
I'd love to be able to share adventures of my own and make contributions to the discussion here, but I just moved to NV for a job (I'm a geologist for you rock nerds out there) and it turns out that Elko is exactly in the middle but also literally as far away from all of my climbing partners as I could possibly get—I'm sure there must be other Nevadastanis who are familiar with the feeling. So, here's a quick plug: if anyone would like to take a chance on inviting me out to join in on a climbing trip, I'd be eternally grateful! If that much isn't in the cards, general advice on how to begin plugging into the impressively adventurous Northern NV climbing community would be very welcome.
My apologies for the off-topic post, please PM any sincere replies, and thanks in advance!
Disclaimer: In case it matters, I am of average strength (i.e. I'll slow you down on anything harder than 5.10) and of an age (27) that doesn't necessarily connote the experience that a more seasoned climber might seek out, but promise that I come equipped with the requisite humility and know-how to safely climb rocks.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2016 - 07:14pm PT
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Elko is not the middle, but there's some good climbing there. Look at the Humboldt range for established routes on good rock. Then take a rack with you and a camera to record the obscure stuff you encounter. Most of it will be volcanic and chossy, but I've seen good potential out there in the north too.just keep your eyes and mind open tothe possibilities and you might be surprised.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jun 10, 2016 - 07:59pm PT
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Be in Fernley by 9am tomorrow Go Vertical and we'll be glad to bring you to the crags.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jun 11, 2016 - 07:22am PT
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Yeah, I'll guarantee you safe passage, for the day anyway. I leave the politics behind on my excursions, but just in case we run into any rabid right wingears foaming at the mouth and thirsting for liberal blood, I carry a sawed off shotgun in a back scabbard for easy dispatch of "problems". Ha Ha, Ha Ha.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 11, 2016 - 07:33am PT
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Govertical, what's all this Stamford Ct then? Eh. ?
You made the transfer from gym jumper to off grid adventure?
Excellent !
FRESH KNEES, young blood, clavicles shoulders n' elbows, to hammer home anchors!
Your up 'kiddo' heehee;)
Not that I'm able to go, still stuck in small rock hell, but I am so envious !
Go , Govertical go.
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GoVertical
climber
Stamford, CT
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Jun 12, 2016 - 05:47pm PT
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Thanks for the replies—wasn't expecting so many so soon!
Johnny, I just meant Elko is in the middle of where all my partners live (Tucson, Denver, Seattle, Bozeman, SF, etc), so it can be tough to coordinate those long distance trips. But to your suggestion, I went exploring in the Humbolts today and definitely found some of what's out there. A bit chossy in places, but looks enticing nonetheless—has anyone done any multi pitching in Lamoille?? Not much info on MP and the guidebook is out of print. Looking forward to Harrison Pass as well. Unfortunately, rain and lack of partners kept me off the rocks. Gonna keep trying to meet people in Elko to get out with.
Gnome, yes sir, I started out as a pre-teen gym rat at Go Vertical in Stamford before they closed up shop in '07. I even bought my first rack with birthday party tip money! Back then, I cut my teeth at the Gunks, the 'dacks, and a few summers in Acadia. But these days I work in the mining industry, so I end up in some more remote areas taking whatever climbing I can get nearby or on the occasional road trip. I'll keep trying to do what youth I have left justice while Im here in NV, haha.
Rick, I've got a non typical work schedule, so it's tough to make plans too far in advance, but if you want to keep me posted next time your going out to climb, I'll definitely to try to make it.
Thanks again, all! ...And of course, let me know if anyone wants to rope up!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jun 14, 2016 - 03:52pm PT
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This is your Egyptian Ridge weather report for June 11. Perfect weather, mid sixties. Moosedrool and I had a decent introductory day, repeating Daytrippin on Sphinx south face, Left Crack on Obelisk, as well as toproping some new ground just left of NW Buttress pitch 4.
So far, I've climbed there every month of the year with the exception of July and August. That will be remedied soon. Comfortable conditions can always be found by adjusting the compass heading of the aspects climbed according to the weather.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2016 - 04:07am PT
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Nice going! I managed half a route in France with my wife and my nephew.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jun 16, 2016 - 09:51am PT
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You didn't miss anything John. Sounds like you're having a good time in Europa.
I'm kinda getting tired of climbing on Sphinx and Obelisk, but feel I must finish this mark off of the calendar.
Are you game for early July? Perhaps a go at that unclimbed crack line on the totally unclimbed N. Buttress I posted a pic of in late winter.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2016 - 11:45am PT
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Having started classes I'm going to be relatively obscure myself during the current semester. Got a 22 credit case-load this go-round. Y'all have fun out there now, ya hear?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Aug 29, 2016 - 01:54pm PT
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I hope you can get free the weekend of the 10th Jonny. All set with my younger brother Pat-tuneup on some classics on fri the 9th and something new with you on sat 11th, hopefully.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 29, 2016 - 04:57pm PT
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wild formation Bravecowby. Thanks for all your photos of climbs on al the threads.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2016 - 06:18am PT
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Yes, I'll be there Rick.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2016 - 09:17pm PT
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Another fun day in Nevadistan. Making America great again, one route at a time.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Sep 13, 2016 - 08:25pm PT
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[photoid=470783]
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Sep 13, 2016 - 08:28pm PT
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Yes John, another great couple of days in the Nevadastani high Desert.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Sep 18, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2016 - 10:36pm PT
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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today's catch. primo en la tierra privada
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2016 - 11:07pm PT
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I got nothin.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Nov 10, 2016 - 09:57am PT
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Pyramid Lake in the first, J?
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bob
climber
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Nov 10, 2016 - 11:06am PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Nov 10, 2016 - 11:34am PT
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Looks like great stuff Bob. Where is the general location? At least which quarter of which state?
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bob
climber
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Nov 10, 2016 - 11:51am PT
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Just above the Merced River. Who'd have thought??!?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 10, 2016 - 11:54am PT
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Free haz is a lame azz ecuzzz"..
Why this double loaded I've no idea I'm going to dump the both of them any time now
Ho wait ?
Hmm lets see if I place the lame az azz iz it needs to be on the next page if I deleted theses two
I d loooze the saze.....
Just using 'Z's' in placement why?
I've no answerz?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 10, 2016 - 11:56am PT
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Argh it won't load ! Hold one I've got to wait a bit yo use a desk top
No ' Zs'
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bob
climber
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Nov 10, 2016 - 12:05pm PT
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^^^^^^^. I'm a moron gnome. I don't get it.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 10, 2016 - 01:10pm PT
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Okay okay I'm just memorized by the last few amazing Rocks
Wow I'm stuck in small rock hell here!
Still can't post pictures
Soon though . . .
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2016 - 07:07am PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 29, 2017 - 06:46pm PT
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Good conditions, sunny high 30's, Jan. 29 at Iron Butte. John and I saw Jack and Alex up there also.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2017 - 07:47pm PT
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Bootied a cam too. Surprised more people weren't there. Even more surprised the other guys turned out to be someone we know!
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Feb 18, 2017 - 02:53pm PT
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welcome to the alt-vert
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2017 - 08:03pm PT
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Made it out to the Selenites with Rick today. Turned out to be a really nice day. Repeated an established route and established a new one, calling it Sunshine. 5.8ish? Single pitch on the right side of sphinx.
Can't upload any of my other shots due to size. All panoramic. Oh well. Saw some caterpillars
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 14, 2017 - 09:42am PT
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Another beautiful day out there in the wilds where few climbers roam. Cool temps tempted us again to the the formations sunny side. This route, the 7th on Sphinx's southern face is on the far eastern side. Continuos left leaning handcrack that eats pro.
Thousands of quality routes still to be done. Perhaps by later generations.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 14, 2017 - 12:08pm PT
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Later this summer Moose, maybe June or July, jonnyrig and I will have to get you out there again. New routes this next time. Lots of unfinished business on the shaded northern exposures if the temps are high.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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Moose, you mean next to the river? That's book of Red. It's at the end of river road, where boats take out just above the washed out dam.
And yes, hoping to get out again in June. If i can make it we're taking two 4x4s to do some ridge running and explore new formations.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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May 14, 2017 - 06:59pm PT
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pitches 4 and 5. the FA told me that they wrapped the summit with their rope, rapped, and then again but off a single pin
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ruppell
climber
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May 14, 2017 - 09:21pm PT
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I'm glad I actually read some of this thread. If you guys want a 3rd 4x4 with recovery gear along hit me up. I can climb and I can drive.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 15, 2017 - 07:51am PT
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Um, that should read Mezmorized!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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May 15, 2017 - 02:46pm PT
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What's in the hole?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 16, 2017 - 11:39am PT
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I spoke with a guy who has been establishing some boulder problems out at Egyptian Ridge in the Selenites. His dog stepped on a hunting trap near the base of a wall. He saw several more in the area.
So be careful hiking around out there - especially with your furry friends.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2017 - 11:50am PT
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Had that happen to my dog several years ago, only it was on the east side of Sparks right above Vista Blvd. We'll keep our eyes open.
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bob
climber
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May 16, 2017 - 02:33pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 16, 2017 - 06:30pm PT
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DMT, there's some good climbing lines in your picture a few posts back. Have they been climbed yet? I don't suppose you'll give up the formations location, eh?
Laine, any new routes by you and friends out at the Ridge lately? I imagine work and the twins are keeping you a bit busy.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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May 16, 2017 - 07:10pm PT
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new Lyons Ss baby tower today, solo loco. "Donnie's Rotten Lil' Smoky" 5.8 A1+
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 26, 2017 - 03:52pm PT
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Egyptian Ridge Gang: Betsy and I will be out on in the area tomorrow, May 27th. We are heading to the Pyramid area to put top-anchors on the climbs we put up a few years ago. A couple of nice face climbs - Visions of Empire, 5.8 and High Desert Solitaire, 5.9. Both two pitches. We didn't have enough power in the drill for top anchors and since the walk-off is kind of heinous we thought it would be nice to finally finish up. The anchors can also be used to rap down from Dreamliner.
Anyone heading out there?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 26, 2017 - 05:05pm PT
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I'm not around to head out Ney. You two should also look towards putting up new approach routes on the lower tier. Several good choices to the left of Dreamliner. One a flake system, another straight in crack system. Could be classics. Good luck and good climbing.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 30, 2017 - 08:32pm PT
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Rick and gang,
We spent the weekend at Egyptian Ridge and did some new and old. First the old and I'll post later with the new climbs.
We climbed "Stepping Out", 5.9 at the Sphinx, 2 pitches.
Rick - that is an awesome climb! Really a classic with a bit of everything. I thought it was basically over after the friction run after "stepping out" and then there is a an awesome hand crack. Well done. Betsy says 4/4 stars.
We did forget how to get to the Sphinx and ended up bushwacking down and around, but now we know...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 30, 2017 - 10:24pm PT
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Yeah, that's a great route Ney.
Bob and I found it and were glad to have Laine lead it on the FA.
We did a 190' first pitch ending 50' higher than your belay station on a good ledge. The second pitch, also very entertaining, was 110' ending on the big ledge adjacent to the new approach rappel route.
I'm eagerly awaiting pics and descriptions of the other routes you did, especially the new ones.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 31, 2017 - 10:55am PT
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Betsy and I spent Memorial day weekend at Egyptian Ridge climbing new and old routes.
The first order of business - this was Memorial Day weekend after all - was to secure a campsite among the crowds.
It was a little surprising. Almost everything in the Sierras is still snowed in with our heavy snow year and still no one is up at ER climbing.
We put up one nice climb (Bodie Dreams)up an orange buttress (5.9) putting in three bolts and also a top ring anchor for a full 35 meter rappel (70 meter ropes only!) This rap is also usable for the first pitch of Dreamliner.
We also put up two easy fun climbs on the same wall. "Walk Like an Egyptian" 5.6 (Come on, you knew that name was coming...)and Pharaoh's Tomb, 5.7. WLAE meanders around a roof and you can pick your route to the top. PT follows a fun crack up.
We also had a little work to do higher up on the upper tier of this formation. We reclimbed "Visions of Empire" that we had put up some time ago, and we replaced the mid-wall belay bolts with ring anchors, and we also drilled and put chains in at the top. It is a very nice sustained 5.8 face climb with 5 or 6 bolts. So now you can rap off in two 35m raps (yes, it requires a full 70 meter rope). This formation is at a for-now undisclosed location.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2017 - 12:12pm PT
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Looking good there Ney. Haven't been back to that formation this year, though I'm hoping to later. Spent the weekend closer to Ice House, though without any climbing I'm afraid.
I think Rick and I may be heading out there in June. Will you be around? For me, it all depends on how the kitchen remodel goes once I get started on it...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 31, 2017 - 04:24pm PT
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Good work by the Grant's!
That rap route you installed goes a long way towards making the crag civilized. Previously it was a heinous bushy descent of the first tier and an even more heinous fourth class descent off the very top.
This area, part of a 30 mile rock studded ridge of the Selenites, provides a very viable alternative to early season Sierra and a year round alternative to places like Donner and the Leap. Although, you could provide free shuttle bus service and install neon lights on the crags and still get few takers. Actually, this a good thing as it enables the relative few active here to pick the plumbs at their leisure.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 31, 2017 - 05:55pm PT
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Thanks Rick. And you only have to take one 70 meter rope up that hill. But it better be 70 meters!
A word about the raps. The first tier rap station is fairly low down because it really is 35 meters to the ground. So it is hard to see from above - best to spot it on the way up Dreamliner or Bodie's Dream over to the left. If someone goes up there a rock cairn or two would help mark it so you can head directly to it when walking down from the second tier.
The top rap station (also the top of Visions of Empire) is found by heading straight down the summit blocks towards the steep face, then traversing right towards a small ridge. Rap straight down and the ring bolts are right above a long, small roof (which you should see from Dreamliner on the way up). Then its another rap to the bottom of the second tier.
It may be worth mentioning again that the all three raps need a full 70 meter rope.
We've put up quite good (damn good really) face climbs just to the left of your Dreamliner crack, on both tiers. (Turns out, who needs a crack?) So now there are six great pitches (especially the upper tier) up there, lots of 5.8 with some 5.9.
Enjoy!
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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May 31, 2017 - 05:57pm PT
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Jonnyrig - yes, let me know when you head out there. June is kind of busy but I'd love to go.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jun 21, 2017 - 09:18am PT
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none of those pesky mushroom ice caps on either summit
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 21, 2017 - 06:13pm PT
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New spot I found.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2017 - 10:03pm PT
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Nice pics. Too hot and too busy to get out this month Ney. Hopefully heating out soon and will holler at you if something shapes up.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 27, 2017 - 03:55pm PT
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 27, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
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Batrock- I've been thinking about the double crack route near the cow camp. It's not a huge route, but it looked good. I'm off right now, and the family loves to camp up at cottonwood.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 27, 2017 - 06:34pm PT
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Tom, I'd love to get back up there. There is so much to do just around the cow camp area. I leave for Maui for 12 days on Thursday but when I get back I would be up for another trip up there. I also had my eye on this climb that you and I looked at several years ago and think it would be pretty good. Up the short seam then take the traversing crak to the left then up to the top. Look very doable.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 27, 2017 - 07:11pm PT
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Ha! I'm in Kauai from the 14th through the 21th, then Silver Lake from July 31 through August 9th. Maybe we could squeeze something in at the end of July, otherwise end of August and into September should be pretty nice up there.
Shoot- the one in your last shot has always looked good. Sling that top knob for the toprope anchor and have at it.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 27, 2017 - 07:51pm PT
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Tom, I can probably do either I'm pretty free since I retired and always up for climbing.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2017 - 10:17pm PT
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There's two dome areas on the West side of Big Smokey Valley that boast 1800 foot walls, ranging from slab to overhanging. Huge potential. A geologist told me that its quarzite similar to Tuolomne. Cleanly cut pluton chopped in half by glaciation. I will be scouting it for possibilities this next spring. I have a house about 30 min away. Top out is about 10,000 ft elevation. Difficult approach.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2017 - 10:29pm PT
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2017 - 10:31pm PT
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2017 - 10:32pm PT
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2017 - 10:33pm PT
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Actually there are three whole areas with a total of about twenty giant features
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2017 - 10:35pm PT
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Actually probably 8500 ft elevation top out. 12000 ft peaks in the area
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jun 28, 2017 - 12:39am PT
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I'd be game to check those out with you Chainsaw. I'm currently located in Susanville. A short drive (for me) away.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jun 28, 2017 - 06:33am PT
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There is a hidden 50 year history of climbing out there Chainsaw. In the undeveloped camp at the mountains base is a 2x12 nailed to a tree just next to a crude picnic table. On that weathered slab of wood are etchings of a few lines up the largest feature. Those who have done limited climbing development out there have been tight lipped. It would be interesting to hear their stories.
Also of interest is a nearby Indian burial ground and abundant signs of prehistoric activities. I should also mention that from the climbing camp is clearly visible, at night and in moonlit conditions, a perfect visage of an Indian in full headdress traced
onto the overhanging face of the largest front formation. Mushrooms help in identification of this feature, but is unnecessary with a little imagination.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Jun 28, 2017 - 10:56am PT
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Are we talking about this place again:
If so, Salamanizer and Chainsaw, PM if you head out that way, I may have something useful for you.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Jun 28, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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Could not resist weighing in here with some of my favorite places. All three photos are places I have worked and hope to return to in a non-working scenario where I can indulge in a little alpinism and gratuitous rock climbing.
First photo is of a range that looks like a miniature version of the Tetons but is in south-central Nevada. There are vertical walls here many hundreds of feet high. These rocks are composed of densely welded rhyolitic ash-flow tuff, some of it is manky and some of it is bullet-proof.
This densely welded ash-flow tuff in central Nevada is called "The Wall" on USGS topos, is several miles long, several hundred feet high, and is columner-jointed like Devils Tower. Much of this rock is superb for rock climbing.
These granite knobs have attracted local dirt bikers because of all of the cool dirt roads around them, but I have no idea if local rock climbers have ever visited them. Again, I have been here many times for work but never the freedom to bring my rock shoes and check them out (corporate safety concerns on a work site).
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Jun 28, 2017 - 11:43am PT
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Not to be secretive, the first photo is the Hot Creek Range about 75 to 80 miles east of Tonopah. The second photo is Palisade Mesa in the same vicinity. Third photo is in the Sand Spring Range about 30 miles east of Fallon. Have at it, guys and gals.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Jun 28, 2017 - 11:49am PT
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Ah - you posted before I asked the question - not Lava Beds.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Near Great Basin National Park. A random find.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jul 17, 2017 - 01:10pm PT
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Snooping Nick Danger's bluff posted above I came across this Castle Rock about 5 miles south of the junction of 6 and 375.
I don't expect it's going to make in near the top of my to-do list any time soon, but does anyone know if there's anything on any of those buttresses? And are they any good, or rotten junk?
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Jul 17, 2017 - 01:28pm PT
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Looks Easy, I recognize that, I've been there on a project for the Air Force about 10 or 12 years ago. That is in the northern part of the Kawich Range. These spires, and others very much like them near by are the remains of some volcanic vents related to the eruption of the Kawich Tuff, a very thick, densely welded tuff of impressive regional extent. These towers are composed of vitric (glassy) and devitrified rhyolite. I was really hoping to find good climbable rock when I checked them out, but it is very frightening choss. If you can make a route go on this stuff you are a much braver climber than I am. While these towers are on public land, if you go much farther south or west from this location you will find yourself trespassing onto the U.S. Air Forces' Nevada Test and Training Range, which is a place where it is not good to be caught trespassing.
cheers
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jul 17, 2017 - 01:37pm PT
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Wow, thanks for all that. Death choss + bombs, eh? Sound like I can definitively move them into the "not worth the drive" file.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Jul 17, 2017 - 01:39pm PT
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Not all volcanic rock in south-central Nevada is scary choss. The pictures posted below are from the western end of Hot Creek Canyon. The Hot Creek Canyon is this very lovely oasis within the Hot Creek Range. Although I have yet to put any routes up this stuff, the rock actually looks pretty good, with good cracks. Also, I really love the Hot Creek Range.
I would love to hear from anyone who might ever go to these places.
Cheers
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2017 - 04:25pm PT
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If I ever get time, I would like to explore further into Nevada. I've seen good stuff on nearly every trip across the state, at least what looks good from a distance. But at below zero temps on an elk hunt, the opportunity to climb just never seems to really present itself.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2017 - 11:16am PT
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Oh I am not Brutus of Wyde
And I can't climb the wide cracks with pride
For my jams are too narrow
And my technique is terrible
If I said that I could them I've lied!
Spent the morning up by Sunny Delight in Carson. Went up next to it on the silent partner, got shut down on the wide. It will go, i just lack the requisite confidence or technique. If you do it, it will take a #6. I wound have pushed it if I had two with me; but not on a single, not alone on rope solo. Still had fun trying. Some of the rock does not inspire confidence.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Aug 28, 2017 - 07:48am PT
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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The selenites have burned, almost the whole range. I am working the fire,
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2017 - 08:31am PT
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STFU and go somewhere.
GTFO. DO something.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Elsewhere obscure...
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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donini, that's in Nevada?!?
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Dam it Munge. I know where that is. :)
some obscure Nevada granite from New Years weekend.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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^ Looks like a place not far from Tonopah.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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This is a better pic of one of the Smokey Valley spots. Closer examination at the right time of morning, 830 am in winter shadow reveals that the mountain is actually Cheech Buttress and Chong wall! Sorry the enlargement is blurry.
Nevada has been good for other things too. These are dumpster dives from an old forge about a hundred years since it burned down.
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TLP
climber
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E. central Nevada, limestone. Very solid. That's quite a big roof up there. Total height of cliff 160-200'?
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Apr 23, 2018 - 08:21pm PT
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I escaped S. Idaho & drove down to the Tonopah area to visit old mining towns, old mines, & hopefully get some exercise hiking around looking for collectable minerals.
Day 1, I drove dirt roads down from HWY 50 to the not quite ghost town of Belmont, found some garnets & about 1000 mud puddles along the way & on my late afternoon way from Belmont to the not-quite ghost town of Manhatan, I noticed some interesting spires on the northern horizon.
I eschewed starting cocktail hour at my beloved Hotel Mizpah in Tonopah, & just for you folks, did another 10 miles of more dirt road driving.
When I get home, I'll post some details, but you can drive your Audi right to these 200' tall granite crags.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Apr 23, 2018 - 08:34pm PT
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Yes Fritz. Post details. I often have to drive from Oregon to Arizona and can route myself many different ways through Nevada in search of obscurities ... like these domes/cliffs you've just posted.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 23, 2018 - 08:43pm PT
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Fritz, yer use of ‘tower’ rather begs the issue, but there is potential there,
especially if you get benighted in Area 51!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Apr 23, 2018 - 09:05pm PT
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I dig it Fritz.
2700' vertical, 20++ mi from pavement
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Apr 23, 2018 - 09:05pm PT
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Yes Reilly, perhaps tower is an over-statement, but after another great day of hiking obscure mines in the Tonopah area, and dinner & a little Cline red wine, "crag" just did not seem to describe the "mushrooms of granite."
I did do a brief internet search under the heading of rock climbs near Belmont & found zero that applied to this area that is about 5 miles west of Belmont,
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 23, 2018 - 09:07pm PT
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Yes, I can see Nevada in my future, especially when I get my ZR1 Vette, nawmean?
I love Pioche.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Apr 23, 2018 - 09:16pm PT
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Belmont has its charms too, but Pioche is pretty cool with the only remaining mine to smelter tramway I know of.
But Belmont!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 23, 2018 - 10:00pm PT
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Been there Fritz. There is a campground with some sites right at the base of smaller crags. Did a bit of bouldering, but had neither rack, rope, or climbing partner. The rock is generally quite weathered.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Apr 23, 2018 - 10:18pm PT
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Rick! Thank you. I did not have time to judge rock quality, except for one short hike through an outcrop, which seemed to match up with Idaho's City of Rocks for quality.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Apr 24, 2018 - 06:34am PT
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Farther south from Tonopah is Beatty an interesting little mining town with some hot springs. A few miles to the east up Batty Wash lie these cliffs.
The rock is densely welded rhyolite forming cliffs about 40 to 60 feet high. The rock is quite solid. I bouldered around a bit and the crack climbs are quite stout.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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I promised some details on access to the crags/towers I posted earlier, that are NW of Belmont Nevada.
This map shows the area from Tonopah with Belmont at top right. I have drawn a red line that shows the roads from paved Hwy 82 that runs to Belmont. The first miles are on a very-good gravel road that runs from Hwy 82 to the quaint mining town of Manhattan. After a right-turn at an obvious junction by some mines, a good single-lane road goes about 6 miles to the crags/towers.
On this map, Belmont is at top right, the route is in red & the sharp right turn is onto the good one-lane road. Don't expect any road signs. After a few miles the road goes up Silver Creek, where the crags are. At one point there is a Forest Service road marker that says 44440. It’s a good road & would accept all but the lowest slung cars. There are several minor junctions, but stay in the canyon bottom.
There is a good parking turn-around spot about an 1/8 mile before these crags, which is where I turned around.
Here’s a Google Earth overview of the area.
I should mention the area south of Manhattan looks to have more of the same crags on Google Earth, but access is not as easy.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Fritz-
Did you have a beer at Dirty Dick's bar? I remember seeing the "jail" behind the courthouse. It was a metal box the size of a small bedroom. Probably really hot in summer. Best-lars
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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probable second ascent of the formation. via new line of peckers in organ rock shale.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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In California and NOT in Death Valley.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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ground chuck, are you sure there aren't any bolts or pins?
been climbing in that valley for quite a while.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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How tall is that thing, batrock?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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^^^^^ Judging by the bushes 400’ would seem about max.
But not chopped liver.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Base of the rock to the top of the rock is 800 feet. There are a few ridge routes that are well over 1000'.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2018 - 11:50pm PT
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Obscure? That's me. I don't get out any more. Though my nephew came to town and we climbed a bit at River Rock and Donner. Yay me. Obscure? That would be my future. 1st world problem, apparently. Sumner's crag is a bit obscure, and it's currently wearing a handful of my cams on that route that needs a bit more gardening with a Silent Partner. Maybe I'll ride the new Yamahog out there and see if I can progress more than 30 ft in a couple hours next time. Don't count on a TR from me though. Y'all got issues 'round here.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Lars! Re your question about my visit to scenic Belmont!
Did you have a beer at Dirty Dick's bar? I remember seeing the "jail" behind the courthouse. It was a metal box the size of a small bedroom. Probably really hot in summer. Best-lars
Sorry for my slow reply. There was a very happy group of about 6 mature folks standing in front of Dirty's Dick's bar, enjoying the late afternoon. We waved at each other, but I was on a mission to get to Tonopah for cocktail hour. Which was of course, delayed by my cursory exploration of the Belmont Crags.
I forgot to mention, I also stopped & verified that these dark "hoodoos" just NE of Belemont on the Monitor Valley Road, are also decent granite.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Yo Jonny. Been a bit on the obscure side myself lately. Came out of semi retirement and built 2 new houses and remodeled 2 rentals this last fall, winter and spring. Anyhow, I'm done for now and due to be back in town in early June. How about retrieving your cams and doing another new route out in the wild blue yonder?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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ground chuck, sorry, not me. didn't mean to imply that. Though I wish I had been there. I meant only that I think there may be routes on it based on the stories I've heard (but not about that specific crag).
Good on ya for getting out that way!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2018 - 06:26am PT
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Sounds good Rick! You guys gotta come by for dinner in the new kitchen anyway.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2018 - 06:21pm PT
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Much gardening
10+?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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The pictures dont do the climb justice. When Jonny, the master gardener, is done unearthing it it will be a classic-long, steep, right leaning finger crack. The upper pitches will be good too.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2018 - 08:45pm PT
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Anyone stood on top of this pile of sh#t yet?
I'm thinking pins and hexes and a bolt kit. Probably a bottle of whiskey before I start. For my belayer.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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jonnyrig? Is that off I-80, in the Humbolt River Canyon, just west of Elko?
Where do you park, to keep the state bulls from ticketing you?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2018 - 08:52pm PT
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It is. I parked off the pavement. Nobody ticketed me. It's loosey goosey.
I kinda want to stand on top and ba the highway. Or something. But ya gotta get up it first. Doesn't look too hard, just loose and poorly protected. Portable holds and such.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Glad someone else had fun there :)
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Vitally,
I’ll be back. Soon. Lots of potential up there.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Aug 23, 2018 - 04:53pm PT
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 23, 2018 - 05:12pm PT
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4runner-dead. Kids-not cheap and time consuming.
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It\'s a MisterE
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Aug 23, 2018 - 05:18pm PT
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Vitally,
I’ll be back. Soon. Lots of potential up there.
See you Sunday Batrock!
Skip & I are looking forward to hanging with you again!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Aug 23, 2018 - 06:58pm PT
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See you Sunday Batrock!
Skip & I are looking forward to hanging with you again!
Don't forget to bring your helmet.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Aug 24, 2018 - 08:34am PT
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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Mar 22, 2019 - 07:45am PT
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climbing content bump ...this thread delivers!
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knucko
climber
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Apr 30, 2019 - 11:56am PT
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Recent bouldering trip near Eureka! Struck Gold!!
My kid Cooper, he's 11, sent as well.........
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toejahm
Trad climber
Chatsworth, CA
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May 13, 2019 - 11:22am PT
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A bit off the beaten path.
Sadly the stone was the consistency of a hard dirt clod.
peace,
kenny
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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May 13, 2019 - 11:37am PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2019 - 09:22pm PT
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 17, 2019 - 10:44pm PT
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this would certainly be a thread worth saving.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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May 18, 2019 - 11:26am PT
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