Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 81 - 100 of total 150 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Jan 12, 2014 - 11:06pm PT
Thanks TH.

Probably my last free weekend before the new kid arrives, so I drove two hours fully intending to climb this:
photo not found
Missing photo ID#340152
But between the biting cold wind, a bad attitude, and the rock quality putting me in mind of Ron's flakey biscuit escapades, I pussed out and explored some roads in four wheel drive instead.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#340153
I guess it's 80-100 feet. Crack system all the way up, oughta be fully protectable. However, rock's exfoliating on the surface, so the slabs aren't exactly what I'd call solid.
Directly below this is another little thing with a sizeable overhang, full of turds from chukar, coyote, and who knows what.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#340155
photo not found
Missing photo ID#340156
On the way there, you drive through the middle of an old Tungsten mine with several fenced tunnels and shafts, and a couple old foundations.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#340157
photo not found
Missing photo ID#340159
There are also two top-ropeable faces just past the mine. One has some bolt heads that I've not seen before, so as much as I'd like to think I'm getting out in the middle of nowhere, somebody's been here before. meh.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#340161
photo not found
Missing photo ID#340162
thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
Jan 13, 2014 - 12:53am PT
nice prospecting! today i followed the masses and liked it for once. greased out desert holds beat the friable desert holds some days.
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Jan 13, 2014 - 01:01am PT
I think you got me beat for actually climbing those portable holds. Maybe in about six months after the new baby is settling, and the better half recovers from a C-section and hernia, she'll let me get out again. I will SO totally go back to the same rock... and punk out 'cause by then it'll be too hot. ha ha ha
photo not found
Missing photo ID#340181
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Jan 13, 2014 - 01:17am PT
Yep. All volcanic. There's some stuff that simply won't hold together, then there's some stuff that looked kinda solid way up on the back of the ridgeline, but it would only yield 40-50 foot routes, maybe. There's a sort of crumbly tower a little further east that I've got my eye on that may hold a loose route or two, but I dunno.

This central slabby thing has a protectable crack right to the top, which looks to be pretty easy, and easily protected once you're 20 feet up or so. The bottom sucks, and part of my attitude today was a matter of not seeing anything suitable for a lead solo anchor down at ground level. The top 20-30 feet may end up being off-width a bit, but I also suck at judging crack width from a distance. There ain't no walk-off, going to have to rap or down climb.
Greg Barnes

climber
Jan 13, 2014 - 01:21am PT
Funky bolt head! I've seen several allen head bolts, but I don't think I've seen a rounded allen head bolt before. Next time you're there unscrew it and see what kind of hardware store bolt it is...
thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
Jan 13, 2014 - 01:21am PT
sometimes you just have to do what you have to do. nice work dude and it will be there when you are free again.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jan 13, 2014 - 03:28am PT
weird the way that bolt is recessed into the rock it makes it hard to imagine a hanger ever being there or how it was used for climbing.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jan 13, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
there are some rocks that never caught my eye before i was a climber. but now, every time i drive back from kirkwood my eyes are drawn to them. i tried to hike to them today from big meadow trailhead but only got to the outskirts.
here's one i stumbled across on the way there
about a 50 footer
about a 50 footer
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

the formation is the furthest of the ones i saw from 88, and the closest from 89
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

the lowest face of the formation
the lowest face of the formation
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

i climbed the right facing corner on the left in the pic. the start and lower portion of the climb is obscured by the white pyramid shaped boulder in the shadows.
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

climbing
screenshot from iPhone vid
screenshot from iPhone vid
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

about where i was in the pic i cloved the rope into a piece and climbed on absentmindedly. got up to a shelf where i could go no higher because of the clove hitch. my choice was to down climb back and move the piece up or untie and climb up easier parts hoping i could walk off. fortunately walking off was an option. then i climbed back up and retrieved the gear.

jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Jan 15, 2014 - 01:31am PT
Nice rock, gumby. Still up there on limited gear or did I miss something?

Looks like I'm getting one more free day before the kid arrives, so I'm thinking of heading back out to the little towerish thing in my last set of pics. Flakey biscuit loaf, I think I'll call it. I will either find a suitable anchor at the base or drill a couple bolts in. Unless I find a partner to go.

Any takers?
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jan 15, 2014 - 01:43am PT
yeah i was putting in a piece there with a dynamic sling and then one clove hitched to the rope. that's when i sort of forgot what i was doing and climbed past where i could reach those pieces. i unclipped the sling from my harness which wasn't an issue since i had more. the bigger issue was not wanting to climb 10' back down to undue the clove hitch, so i untied the rope and kept going, making sure i didn't climb up anything i couldn't backtrack comfortably.
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Jan 15, 2014 - 02:36am PT
Found this 30 foot face (and crack) right under the noses of everybody. There is nothing that tall in like a 7 mile radius. Posting a few photes at the risk of it being grid-bolted by morning.
Credit: T H

Weird window/ brace holding it up from the back ...
Credit: T H
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:54am PT
It's now been almost a month since my son was born, and I finally have a little something to report. He's doing well, and his mother is too. She is now recovering from last weeks hernia surgery, which occurred from coughing during the pregnancy.
So, after many weeks of crying, colds, doctors office visits, stomach upsets, lack of sleep, and dirty clothes, I was going nuts. And then there's the kids! Clearly, the family needed a break from me.
One of my friends got conned into an obscure climb on a backcountry cow trail (where, incidentally, the cows would most likely resemble that dried out cow skull and horns in some desert cartoon), hours from nowhere, on a balmy winter Nevada day. I promised him sunshine and a FA on a south-facing, easy, two-pitch slab. One blown tire and a steady thirty mph wind chill not withstanding, the sun DID grace us with its presence. Promise fulfilled, we gave it a go.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#345569
Ten minutes of hiking had us at the base of the upper slab. The lower outcrop has some potential routes, but I'll leave those to the boulder monkeys who like to grid-bolt, or, you know... my next life-cycle as my friend might have said.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#345571
I led the first pitch on the flakey-biscuit-quality rock. It's easy climbing, relatively easy protection after a little feng-shui rock gardening of the crack along the way. The surface, while offering an endless variety of portable holds, also has a great crack system that runs bottom to top with enough adequate holds to propel even an untrainable goober like myself in a direction that resembles up. The hardest part seemed to be positioning one's feet in such a manner as to not rain down biscuit/pancake size shards of volcanic muck upon your windbitten lifeline handler below. Oddly, the comparison had me craving a second helping of waffles and syrup.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#345575
After anchoring in an alcove out of the wind just below the chimneyish pitch and starting the partner up, the wind changed direction and I was suddenly both ecstatic to be wearing an insulated plaid bubba shirt and distraught that I'd foolishly left the thermal leggings at home. My partner easily cleaned the pitch and dished me up a healthy admonishment that I'd not place enough gear for this middle-of-nowhere type of shenanigan, then did a brilliant job of both leading the chimneyish pitch, and sending the flapjack style rock flakes careening down the chute in front of me, instead of on top of me. Bravo sir! After a brief handshake and a presidential selfie on my first two-pitch (ok, so the 1st pitch was over half a rope, maybe 120 ft, and the second was probably under half a rope, so I guess technically some brave soul with a 70m could link up and make it a single pitch slabhappy thingy of it) FA, we elected to get out of the wind-tunnel-like vortex of not-so-warming breeziness and slung a large block with a baby angle backup (sharp edges) 70ish ft rap off the top side.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#345580
photo not found
Missing photo ID#345581
photo not found
Missing photo ID#345582
All together, it was fun day starting with waffle breakfast, two easy pitches of pancake-flakey biscuit crack, minor teeth-chattering wind-chill, and a blown out tire. Sure beats a dirty diaper. Which was the most immediate need-to-do when I walked in the door at home, followed by a Killians Irish Red and some warm soup.
Now, all that's left to do is:
Three slings and piton left on obscure rock just northeast of Lembert Dome. Free PBR to the good soul who's kind enough to return them to me!
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:29am PT
JohnnyRig- brilliant trip report of what is undoubtedly the first ascent and probably the last ascent of the mighty Creelman Crag. Obscurity of obscurities and a damn good adventurous find.
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:10am PT
Thankyou. Im saving my first real TR for something a little more worthy of Taco standards.

Next up: something taller, and with video. Aka- hold my beer and watch this...
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:24am PT
Cool JR,
Glad ya got out and up that obscure stone.
Tad
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:33am PT
Applause!!!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:46am PT
Great thread, keep em coming!

I still think this spot has some fun potential and it would be a good diversion driving north on the 14 on the way to Mammoth or Bishop.
Credit: Batrock
Credit: Batrock

Interesting rock here but access is by kayak.
Upper Piru just above Pyramid Lake
Upper Piru just above Pyramid Lake
Credit: Batrock

I did a few routes on this wall a few summers ago but there is much more to do. It's up in the Whites.
Credit: Batrock

This boulder is deep in the Sespe. Camped next to it on a raft trip a few years back.
Big boulders are everywhere.
Big boulders are everywhere.
Credit: Batrock


Did a FA with Tom Woods on this dome a few years back, also in the Whites
Credit: Batrock


I really think this peak has some potential and if you have a 4x4 you can almost drive to the base.
This peak at the head of San Lucas Canyon has some climbing potential ...
This peak at the head of San Lucas Canyon has some climbing potential as do the canyon walls just to the south of it.
Credit: Batrock

More White Mountain potential.
Credit: Batrock

A horrible shot of the peak in the Inyos I posted above. Taken on a recon trip in 1986 or 1987.
Credit: Batrock

kennyt

Trad climber
Oregon
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:54am PT
Good thread!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson



Credit: Ron Anderson


CA obscurities ^^^


Hillrats Photo
Hillrats Photo
Credit: Ron Anderson

NV obscurity^^^




Credit: Ron Anderson


Ca obscurity^^^^^

below the lip is an aver hanging wall about 50 to 60' of knobbery..
below the lip is an aver hanging wall about 50 to 60' of knobbery..
Credit: Ron Anderson

Credit: Ron Anderson


NV obscurity , ad would you believe all those grotesque knobs are SOLID!




CLICK TO ENLARGE!!!!
CLICK TO ENLARGE!!!!
Credit: Ron Anderson

NV obscurity^^^
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Feb 18, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
The route done a few years ago. I went up with a non climber friend and felt bad about making him belay so I only ticked off the one route. There is a cool face to roof climb to the left that I really want to go back and try. MisterE??? you up for a little adventure this summer?
Credit: Batrock

This is the Papoose Flat area down toward Marble Canyon. We did a route on the left side of the formation. Rap bolts on top.
Route follows the left skyline.
Route follows the left skyline.
Credit: Batrock


Fun splitter hand crack right off the road in the Whites.
Split Decision 5.8+
Split Decision 5.8+
Credit: Batrock


Another Papoose Flat climb. The route we did climbs the longest left to right crack system. Pretty chossy but could be good with more traffic.
Route follows thin diagonal cracks right of middle.
Route follows thin diagonal cracks right of middle.
Credit: Batrock
Messages 81 - 100 of total 150 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews