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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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Rhodeo: He-he, I spell n00b from your reply...!
I can take that, coming from a 100 feet gravel heap of a country. My friend (who owns the bags) is quite far from that though, with some heavy repeats & first ascents in Alaska et al.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Oct 27, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
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Well, yeah, just calling it like I see it. Really, though- I'm sorry you came all that way and did all that work to get 4 pitches up and reverse the whole thing- that's gotta hurt a bit. Hopefully you enjoyed a night on the Dormitory at least.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 27, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
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When 40 year old bolts get replaced by new ones that are bigger and stronger they are going into the rock whether by hand or electric.
What is the difference?
Difference is, that if done by a power drill we get to talk sh#t and put down the guy that did it! Makes us feel good about ourselves!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Oct 27, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
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Wrong.
That ethic of installation tends to shape new routing options, not just replacement.
As seen on recent Big wall FA's in the valley.
Nothing more lame than power drilling from A-Trays.
Werner Ok'd it, so it must be alright.
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Tvash
climber
Seattle
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Oct 27, 2014 - 04:19pm PT
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Thanks for the info about Tis-sa-ack.
That approach is a bit of a burner.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Oct 27, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
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With my own eyes and camera lens I've seen recent bigwall routes go in with the FA party power-drilling progression bolts while standing in ladders on the belay bolts. In full view of the road as well.
But if Werner says it's cool, I'm sure the LEOs will be okay with it too. I'll be sure to print out this thread and keep it with me as a get-out-of-jail-free card next time I'm putting up a route.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Oct 27, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
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If you wouldn't have wasted so much time filming the approach you would have made it.
Your shorts are too tight too.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 27, 2014 - 10:57pm PT
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But if Werner says it's cool, I'm sure the LEOs will be okay with it too.
No ... they will bust you.
I didn't say it was Ok I said people have done it beside the rules being there.
If you get caught you're hosed .....
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 28, 2014 - 12:30am PT
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This stooopid ban on using a bolt gun was originally initiated by climber morons to the land managers.
I was there and heard all their stooopid arguments that were based on pure manufactured fear.
People are people. If there is no problem, they will create it for themselves. I do not think there is a need for fellow climbers to raise a stink about someone replacing bolts with a power drill after the fact? It is service to the community. Just say thanks a lot to the guys that hauled that sh#t up, risked getting a find and spent own money to re-place garbage.
j-tree, so what did you do with those photos?
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Bad Climber
climber
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Oct 28, 2014 - 06:24am PT
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Wow, such hard work and bail. I know that game. My first attempt on RNWF ended in the walk of shame, too, although we did the trail up and down.
But!
I do get a few hardman points for surviving the approach to NW Face of Quarter Domes and doing the climb. We wished for something as nice as the Death Slabs. Thrashed, lashed and broken, I whimpered at the base like a whipped school girl once I dropped the pig. On the left side of the wall, we saw a few abandoned haul pigs and wondered about their history. On the plus side for us, there was no way in hell we were going back down. We were going to do that climb no matter what. We found a drip off the wall to replenish some water, had a kind of rest day where we fixed a pitch or two, then went for it with one bivi before the summit. This remains my most favorite wall experience. No one on the route above or below or on top, good climbing, and a fantastic position with HD to our right and Watkins behind. I jugged the last pitch in the golden light of sunset, clouds swirling about us and around the top of Half Dome. Fantastic! We ate our last food and slept in quiet solitude on the summit amongst a few weird little towers.
The walk down was a constant attempt to explain that, no, we didn't climb HD, but the far more brutal Quarter Domes! Only one climber understood. Eventually, my partner just started saying that, yeah, we climbed HD. Funny.
Climb on.
BAd
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 28, 2014 - 06:48am PT
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Nice post BAd.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 28, 2014 - 08:37am PT
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nice video of the slab's of half dome!
thank-you for posting!
I felt tired after watching.
sorry you didn't complete the mission but life goes on!
the base of the Dome is great place to hang around.
I remember the music blasting from the cd player had better acoustic!
cheers!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 28, 2014 - 09:00am PT
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I'm taking a rest day after watching that
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east side underground
climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Oct 28, 2014 - 09:24am PT
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almost got the chop on the death slabs while jugging a fixed line, two basketball size rocks a bunch of smaller ones wizzed so close i thought i was gone for sure. i can still remember the sound like jet engines in my ears. half dome is one scary place. remember that heisenberg
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Tvash
climber
Seattle
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Oct 28, 2014 - 11:11am PT
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The ravens do that, too, on HF, right past your head, just to mess wicha. They can really spice up a boring belay sesh.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 28, 2014 - 11:27am PT
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nice shot east side!
love looking at that half dome thing!
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c wilmot
climber
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Oct 28, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
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Felt compelled to chime in. I spent years working on the valleys trails. One summer I spent a few months below half dome working on the trail through the slide. During that summer our crew saw two fairly major rockfalls come down the death slabs. both times it occurred a few days after a rain. Rockfall seems to be a fairly major hazard to consider up there- but maybe I am wrong on that. Stay safe out there
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Tvash
climber
Seattle
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Oct 28, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
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We were parked on P6 of RNWF in a 7 hour rainstorm this summer and the rock symphony did indeed commence. No close calls, though, but I can do without that sitting duck feeling.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2014 - 01:03am PT
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Good one, BAd!
A feew weeks out now, I have only good memories. Fx waking up on the Dormitory Ledge at c. 4, accidently wachting the full lunar eclipse over the Valley. A very special sight.
The last miles down John Muir Trail I switch leads with two school classes, chatting along the way, answering questions about Scandinavia, climbing around the World, my load. They didn't care one moment if I'd done the route or not, I was their hero for a few moments. Nice kids!
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2014 - 01:28am PT
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@Wilmot:
Thnx for that major effort; trail making on the HD slabs must have been back breaking work. Much appreciated!
On a side note, I participated in the AAC International Meeting after HD. The day after our return, the meeting program was for trailmaking below El Cap, right of Nose. Not exactly what I was looking forward to as a rest day, but any way a great experience. I learned a lot about how to make steps that will hold years of water run off, as well as climbers carying silly haul bags up to El Cap base!
Alex H took a "day off" helping with the trail work, nice. Could you imagine Tiger Woods raking the pits or cutting grass on the fairways?
Alec (the pro) explaining safety around tools:
Work of the day: Four stone steps below Mescalito. Victor (from Mexico), Alec (The Trail Pro!), and me. Thanks Alec, couldn't have done it without you!:
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