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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2014 - 06:13am PT
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My friend and I recently went up to do Tis-sa-ack. We did'nt do it, but as the approach is hilarious, I produced a silly little video of the struggle. Nothing much to write home about.
We bailed because we only looked at the aid grade, and forgot about the free grades. C3/A2 sounded OK, but 5.9 loose, 5.8 poor pro, 5.9 big loose flakes stopped us already at P4. 30' with ledgefall potential was more than we could handle.
But I do have a question to those of you who've done the route:
To get the the first pitch Supertopo says that the substructure should be 4th classed from the rigth. But everyone seems to go from the left, as the righthand approach is way harder. So why put the right side in the book?
A team of 3 bailed from around p12, but we never met them or got a reason for their return. They E-drilled maybe 10 to 15 bolts on P6-P12. Man, would we have loved to have just one bolt on the first 30 feet of P4. But - well - RR did it in 1969, so I expect we just need to be braver...!
Death Slabs approach (140 kg up in two days) - and hike out (95 kg down in one day):
http://vimeo.com/110003630
Michael
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Oct 27, 2014 - 06:55am PT
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quite a slog. I got tired just watching it.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 27, 2014 - 07:51am PT
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Instead of carrying all that weight up the slabs in one load you should have made 2 trips.
Easier and safer.
I don't know why you went all the way up to the saddle and then down the trail instead of going back down the slabs.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 08:08am PT
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We did in two loads (or four, that is) over two days, Werner.
And my knees (and I) are getting old; slabs are too steep and slippery going own, so I preferred the long slog on the trails...!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 27, 2014 - 08:19am PT
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Ugggghhhh!!!
I've only done that approach about 10 times in my life.
I may have one or two trips left in me.
It's not the ability, it's the desire to punish myself, again.....YUCK!!
Sorry you didn't pull the route. Any plans to return? Did you get a consolation wall climbed?
Did you say the party above you electrically drilled, how many holes??
10-15 new holes, BY ONE PARTY?
WTF Man? That sounds criminal. In fact if it was electric, it was.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 27, 2014 - 08:24am PT
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OK Michael
Cool.
I know anyways we look at it's still a brutal approach with all that crap we need for a wall like that.
And it it IS tough on the knees.
Sorry you had to bail as you would have loved this climb .......
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 08:28am PT
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I'm quite certain it wasn't new holes! Fixing anchors most likely - and upgrading some of the deteriorating ladders. Would have loved to see/use them!
No, no walls for me this time. Attended the AAC ICM in stead. Nice. My friend went back, though, and did the Trip a few days ago.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 27, 2014 - 08:33am PT
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Good to hear that you believe it was anchor upgrade, or ladder repair. But you don't really know right?
If it was electric, it's still illegal.
Come back and get a wall!! And thanks for the fun video.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 27, 2014 - 08:45am PT
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When 40 year old bolts get replaced by new ones that are bigger and stronger they are going into the rock whether by hand or electric.
What is the difference?
One is pounded by ones arm.
One is pounded using mans ingenuity in manipulating the material elements in making a mechanical extension of ones arm.
The two tools still make a hole ....... :-)
The whole bolt gun controversy was started by climbers screaming to the land managers as WRONG!!!!!
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 08:53am PT
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Right on (in my (euro bolter) view), Werner!
The e-drilling took maybe 20-30 seconds each. Hand drilling would have taken them forever, and we should have endured a constant hammering. And possibly ended up with just another dozen lousy bolts!
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 08:57am PT
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I seem to be going to the Valley every 10 years. So I'll be back for a wall in 2024 (- or 2025 for a 70-years anniversary)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 27, 2014 - 09:04am PT
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nice attempt!
u conquered the approach which is a bitch!
I started the first pitch remember it being horizontal left to right..
entire root consist decomposing granite!
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 27, 2014 - 09:13am PT
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Bruce (survival) even Shipley said "fuk this bullshit" and power drilled some his bolts in the Valley.
This stooopid ban on using a bolt gun was originally initiated by climber morons to the land managers.
I was there and heard all their stooopid arguments that were based on pure manufactured fear.
You would not believe how many classic new routes in Yosemite were bolted with power drills even after the ban.
It's not the tools, its the the user of the tools.
Like everything there's idiots using tools and intelligent users.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 09:23am PT
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Pyro: Right, HD base has not the best granite in the Valley...! Solid looking foot steps sugarcrumbling under your shoes.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 27, 2014 - 09:39am PT
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Like everything there's idiots using tools and intelligent users.
I agree Werner. I didn't make the rules, I only try to live by them.
My position would be that the ban slows down the idiots using tools.
Ask Royal, who I'm sure you have a deep respect for.
Edit: What should be the new rules for which idiots get restricted to hand drill only, and which enlightened ones get to use electric drills?
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 27, 2014 - 09:42am PT
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The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.
So the philosophy enacted by this ban hurt the intelligent class .......
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 27, 2014 - 09:44am PT
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The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.
That's far from your normal mantra bro, HA HA HA HA!!!!
Admit it, I got you that time.....
:)
I will use my new Werner quote anytime, anywhere, all the time, at a time and place of my choosing. I love it!!
The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.
The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.
The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.
The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.
The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.
The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.
You know I respect you brother. But you sure are anti-MAN for being in bed with him all these years. In a way, I respect that too.....
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Oct 27, 2014 - 09:44am PT
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Death slabs = no thanks
I'll take the long way around
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Oct 27, 2014 - 10:29am PT
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A couple observations:
1. Those bags are way too shiny.
2. Those bags are way too heavy.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 27, 2014 - 11:47am PT
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Having chosen to endure the Walk of Shame in the direction you chose (i.e. back to the trail and down, rather than heading down the Death Slabs) after retreating from a snow storm, and fearing for our lives on the slippery Death Slabs , I can sympathize with your choice. Also, my knees aren't what they used to be, either.
I was therefore going to say I empathize with your video, but on reflection, it's more like I resemble your video. Thanks for making my day.
John
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