Death Slabs Approach & Tis-sa-ack Bail / A video

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Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2014 - 06:13am PT

My friend and I recently went up to do Tis-sa-ack. We did'nt do it, but as the approach is hilarious, I produced a silly little video of the struggle. Nothing much to write home about.

We bailed because we only looked at the aid grade, and forgot about the free grades. C3/A2 sounded OK, but 5.9 loose, 5.8 poor pro, 5.9 big loose flakes stopped us already at P4. 30' with ledgefall potential was more than we could handle.

But I do have a question to those of you who've done the route:

To get the the first pitch Supertopo says that the substructure should be 4th classed from the rigth. But everyone seems to go from the left, as the righthand approach is way harder. So why put the right side in the book?

A team of 3 bailed from around p12, but we never met them or got a reason for their return. They E-drilled maybe 10 to 15 bolts on P6-P12. Man, would we have loved to have just one bolt on the first 30 feet of P4. But - well - RR did it in 1969, so I expect we just need to be braver...!

Death Slabs approach (140 kg up in two days) - and hike out (95 kg down in one day):

http://vimeo.com/110003630

Michael

zip

Trad climber

pacific beach, ca

Oct 27, 2014 - 06:55am PT

quite a slog. I got tired just watching it.

WBraun

climber

Oct 27, 2014 - 07:51am PT

Instead of carrying all that weight up the slabs in one load you should have made 2 trips.

Easier and safer.

I don't know why you went all the way up to the saddle and then down the trail instead of going back down the slabs.

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 08:08am PT

We did in two loads (or four, that is) over two days, Werner.
And my knees (and I) are getting old; slabs are too steep and slippery going own, so I preferred the long slog on the trails...!

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 27, 2014 - 08:19am PT

Ugggghhhh!!!

I've only done that approach about 10 times in my life.

I may have one or two trips left in me.

It's not the ability, it's the desire to punish myself, again.....YUCK!!

Sorry you didn't pull the route. Any plans to return? Did you get a consolation wall climbed?

Did you say the party above you electrically drilled, how many holes??
10-15 new holes, BY ONE PARTY?
WTF Man? That sounds criminal. In fact if it was electric, it was.

WBraun

climber

Oct 27, 2014 - 08:24am PT

OK Michael

Cool.

I know anyways we look at it's still a brutal approach with all that crap we need for a wall like that.

And it it IS tough on the knees.

Sorry you had to bail as you would have loved this climb .......

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 08:28am PT

I'm quite certain it wasn't new holes! Fixing anchors most likely - and upgrading some of the deteriorating ladders. Would have loved to see/use them!

No, no walls for me this time. Attended the AAC ICM in stead. Nice. My friend went back, though, and did the Trip a few days ago.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 27, 2014 - 08:33am PT

Good to hear that you believe it was anchor upgrade, or ladder repair. But you don't really know right?

If it was electric, it's still illegal.

Come back and get a wall!! And thanks for the fun video.

WBraun

climber

Oct 27, 2014 - 08:45am PT

When 40 year old bolts get replaced by new ones that are bigger and stronger they are going into the rock whether by hand or electric.

What is the difference?

One is pounded by ones arm.

One is pounded using mans ingenuity in manipulating the material elements in making a mechanical extension of ones arm.

The two tools still make a hole ....... :-)

The whole bolt gun controversy was started by climbers screaming to the land managers as WRONG!!!!!

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 08:53am PT

Right on (in my (euro bolter) view), Werner!

The e-drilling took maybe 20-30 seconds each. Hand drilling would have taken them forever, and we should have endured a constant hammering. And possibly ended up with just another dozen lousy bolts!

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 08:57am PT

I seem to be going to the Valley every 10 years. So I'll be back for a wall in 2024 (- or 2025 for a 70-years anniversary)

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Oct 27, 2014 - 09:04am PT

nice attempt!
u conquered the approach which is a bitch!
I started the first pitch remember it being horizontal left to right..
entire root consist decomposing granite!

WBraun

climber

Oct 27, 2014 - 09:13am PT

Bruce (survival) even Shipley said "fuk this bullshit" and power drilled some his bolts in the Valley.

This stooopid ban on using a bolt gun was originally initiated by climber morons to the land managers.

I was there and heard all their stooopid arguments that were based on pure manufactured fear.

You would not believe how many classic new routes in Yosemite were bolted with power drills even after the ban.

It's not the tools, its the the user of the tools.

Like everything there's idiots using tools and intelligent users.

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 09:23am PT

Pyro: Right, HD base has not the best granite in the Valley...! Solid looking foot steps sugarcrumbling under your shoes.

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 27, 2014 - 09:39am PT

Like everything there's idiots using tools and intelligent users.

I agree Werner. I didn't make the rules, I only try to live by them.

My position would be that the ban slows down the idiots using tools.

Ask Royal, who I'm sure you have a deep respect for.

Edit: What should be the new rules for which idiots get restricted to hand drill only, and which enlightened ones get to use electric drills?

WBraun

climber

Oct 27, 2014 - 09:42am PT

The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.

So the philosophy enacted by this ban hurt the intelligent class .......

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 27, 2014 - 09:44am PT

The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.

That's far from your normal mantra bro, HA HA HA HA!!!!

Admit it, I got you that time.....

:)

I will use my new Werner quote anytime, anywhere, all the time, at a time and place of my choosing. I love it!!

The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.

The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.

The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.

The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.

The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.

The intelligent class far exceeds the idiots.

You know I respect you brother. But you sure are anti-MAN for being in bed with him all these years. In a way, I respect that too.....

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber

Old and Broken Down in Appalachia

Oct 27, 2014 - 09:44am PT

Death slabs = no thanks

I'll take the long way around

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

sawatch choss

Oct 27, 2014 - 10:29am PT

A couple observations:

1. Those bags are way too shiny.
2. Those bags are way too heavy.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 27, 2014 - 11:47am PT

Having chosen to endure the Walk of Shame in the direction you chose (i.e. back to the trail and down, rather than heading down the Death Slabs) after retreating from a snow storm, and fearing for our lives on the slippery Death Slabs , I can sympathize with your choice. Also, my knees aren't what they used to be, either.

I was therefore going to say I empathize with your video, but on reflection, it's more like I resemble your video. Thanks for making my day.

John

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 01:47pm PT

Rhodeo: He-he, I spell n00b from your reply...!
I can take that, coming from a 100 feet gravel heap of a country. My friend (who owns the bags) is quite far from that though, with some heavy repeats & first ascents in Alaska et al.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

sawatch choss

Oct 27, 2014 - 03:23pm PT

Well, yeah, just calling it like I see it. Really, though- I'm sorry you came all that way and did all that work to get 4 pitches up and reverse the whole thing- that's gotta hurt a bit. Hopefully you enjoyed a night on the Dormitory at least.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Oct 27, 2014 - 03:34pm PT

When 40 year old bolts get replaced by new ones that are bigger and stronger they are going into the rock whether by hand or electric.

What is the difference?

Difference is, that if done by a power drill we get to talk sh#t and put down the guy that did it! Makes us feel good about ourselves!

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Oct 27, 2014 - 03:40pm PT

Wrong.

That ethic of installation tends to shape new routing options, not just replacement.

As seen on recent Big wall FA's in the valley.

Nothing more lame than power drilling from A-Trays.

Werner Ok'd it, so it must be alright.

Tvash

climber

Seattle

Oct 27, 2014 - 04:19pm PT

Thanks for the info about Tis-sa-ack.

That approach is a bit of a burner.

j-tree

Big Wall climber

Typewriters and Ledges

Oct 27, 2014 - 07:29pm PT

With my own eyes and camera lens I've seen recent bigwall routes go in with the FA party power-drilling progression bolts while standing in ladders on the belay bolts. In full view of the road as well.

But if Werner says it's cool, I'm sure the LEOs will be okay with it too. I'll be sure to print out this thread and keep it with me as a get-out-of-jail-free card next time I'm putting up a route.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

extraordinaire

Oct 27, 2014 - 09:30pm PT

If you wouldn't have wasted so much time filming the approach you would have made it.
Your shorts are too tight too.

WBraun

climber

Oct 27, 2014 - 10:57pm PT

But if Werner says it's cool, I'm sure the LEOs will be okay with it too.

No ... they will bust you.

I didn't say it was Ok I said people have done it beside the rules being there.

If you get caught you're hosed .....

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Oct 28, 2014 - 12:30am PT

This stooopid ban on using a bolt gun was originally initiated by climber morons to the land managers.

I was there and heard all their stooopid arguments that were based on pure manufactured fear.

People are people. If there is no problem, they will create it for themselves. I do not think there is a need for fellow climbers to raise a stink about someone replacing bolts with a power drill after the fact? It is service to the community. Just say thanks a lot to the guys that hauled that sh#t up, risked getting a find and spent own money to re-place garbage.

j-tree, so what did you do with those photos?

Bad Climber

climber

Oct 28, 2014 - 06:24am PT

Wow, such hard work and bail. I know that game. My first attempt on RNWF ended in the walk of shame, too, although we did the trail up and down.

But!

I do get a few hardman points for surviving the approach to NW Face of Quarter Domes and doing the climb. We wished for something as nice as the Death Slabs. Thrashed, lashed and broken, I whimpered at the base like a whipped school girl once I dropped the pig. On the left side of the wall, we saw a few abandoned haul pigs and wondered about their history. On the plus side for us, there was no way in hell we were going back down. We were going to do that climb no matter what. We found a drip off the wall to replenish some water, had a kind of rest day where we fixed a pitch or two, then went for it with one bivi before the summit. This remains my most favorite wall experience. No one on the route above or below or on top, good climbing, and a fantastic position with HD to our right and Watkins behind. I jugged the last pitch in the golden light of sunset, clouds swirling about us and around the top of Half Dome. Fantastic! We ate our last food and slept in quiet solitude on the summit amongst a few weird little towers.

The walk down was a constant attempt to explain that, no, we didn't climb HD, but the far more brutal Quarter Domes! Only one climber understood. Eventually, my partner just started saying that, yeah, we climbed HD. Funny.

Climb on.

BAd

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Oct 28, 2014 - 06:48am PT

Nice post BAd.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Oct 28, 2014 - 08:37am PT

nice video of the slab's of half dome!
thank-you for posting!
I felt tired after watching.
sorry you didn't complete the mission but life goes on!
the base of the Dome is great place to hang around.
I remember the music blasting from the cd player had better acoustic!
cheers!

Mike Bolte

Trad climber

Planet Earth

Oct 28, 2014 - 09:00am PT

I'm taking a rest day after watching that

east side underground

climber

Hilton crk,ca

Oct 28, 2014 - 09:24am PT

almost got the chop on the death slabs while jugging a fixed line, two basketball size rocks a bunch of smaller ones wizzed so close i thought i was gone for sure. i can still remember the sound like jet engines in my ears. half dome is one scary place. remember that heisenberg

Tvash

climber

Seattle

Oct 28, 2014 - 11:11am PT

The ravens do that, too, on HF, right past your head, just to mess wicha. They can really spice up a boring belay sesh.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Oct 28, 2014 - 11:27am PT

nice shot east side!
love looking at that half dome thing!

c wilmot

climber

Oct 28, 2014 - 07:35pm PT

Felt compelled to chime in. I spent years working on the valleys trails. One summer I spent a few months below half dome working on the trail through the slide. During that summer our crew saw two fairly major rockfalls come down the death slabs. both times it occurred a few days after a rain. Rockfall seems to be a fairly major hazard to consider up there- but maybe I am wrong on that. Stay safe out there

Tvash

climber

Seattle

Oct 28, 2014 - 08:55pm PT

We were parked on P6 of RNWF in a 7 hour rainstorm this summer and the rock symphony did indeed commence. No close calls, though, but I can do without that sitting duck feeling.

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2014 - 01:03am PT

Good one, BAd!
A feew weeks out now, I have only good memories. Fx waking up on the Dormitory Ledge at c. 4, accidently wachting the full lunar eclipse over the Valley. A very special sight.
The last miles down John Muir Trail I switch leads with two school classes, chatting along the way, answering questions about Scandinavia, climbing around the World, my load. They didn't care one moment if I'd done the route or not, I was their hero for a few moments. Nice kids!

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2014 - 01:28am PT

@Wilmot:
Thnx for that major effort; trail making on the HD slabs must have been back breaking work. Much appreciated!

On a side note, I participated in the AAC International Meeting after HD. The day after our return, the meeting program was for trailmaking below El Cap, right of Nose. Not exactly what I was looking forward to as a rest day, but any way a great experience. I learned a lot about how to make steps that will hold years of water run off, as well as climbers carying silly haul bags up to El Cap base!

Alex H took a "day off" helping with the trail work, nice. Could you imagine Tiger Woods raking the pits or cutting grass on the fairways?

Alec (the pro) explaining safety around tools:

Work of the day: Four stone steps below Mescalito. Victor (from Mexico), Alec (The Trail Pro!), and me. Thanks Alec, couldn't have done it without you!: