repelling down half dome


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san diego, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 2, 2003 - 02:53pm PT
I bought a supertopo book and I was looking at and had a question. I was thinking about climbing snake dike and repelling down the regular route on half dome. A lot of the pitches are 100-140 ft or so, which isn't a problem when you're climbing with a 50 or 60m rope, but is a problem when you're trying to repell down the same route. Is the repelling route different? Will I need two ropes to repell? Any beta would be helpful.

Orange County CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2003 - 04:02pm PT
You can't be serious. That would be a bad idea. There's enough traffic on that route going upward - don't add to the mayhem on one of YV's most popular wall routes.

I can dig not taking the most beaten path, but you can come up with a more viable alternative than that. My beta is: think of something else.

Social climber
Oct 2, 2003 - 04:52pm PT
Aside from a couple of sections where the route traverses for a couple of pitches, you may want to take a couple of dozen bolts and links with you since more than half of the anchors are not bolted nor set up as rap stations.

Trad climber
Oct 2, 2003 - 05:59pm PT
Why woud you do this?

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Oct 2, 2003 - 07:33pm PT
Dude, it's spelled rapelling. With an RA. However, your idea is repelling.
Ben Rumsen

Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 2, 2003 - 08:01pm PT
Kris, it's spelled rappeling - and rapp'ing Half Dome is, well, why ??

Sport climber
Fresno, CA
Oct 2, 2003 - 08:26pm PT
You're supposed to go up the Reg Route and rap Snake Dike. Freakin tourist...

san diego, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2003 - 08:27pm PT
Sorry I missed spell rappelling-big deal. Why would I do this? Why not, seems fun. Don't people climb up the route and then rappel down when they're done, or does everyone just wuss out and hike down? And there's no way I would do it on a busy day, I was thinking of going during a weekday, and definetly not near any holidays. I'd look over the edge and if it was busy, then I'd take the hike down. If not, I'd like to be able to rappel down for the fun and excitement of it. It's the best way to check out the route without climbing it.

san diego, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2003 - 08:31pm PT
Thanks Tradboy for being the only one who had any constructive advice to offer. If you don't want me going down that route, are they any other less busy routes you guys wouldn't mind me rappeling (I finally spelled it right). Damn, so quick to judge instead of trying to help.

san diego, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2003 - 08:36pm PT
what about the northwest route? anything? anyone?

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Oct 2, 2003 - 08:41pm PT
I guess I can't spell either. But I didn't read tradboy's advice to drill your way down placing bolted anchors as constructive. He was being sarcastic, no?

Have you ever rappeled down such a large face before? Ever had the rope jam or get caught behind a flake 100 ft over your head? Most climbers I know don't volunteer for this sort of duty, but only do it when they have to. Since when is using some common sense "wussing out"?

Sport climber
Fresno, CA
Oct 2, 2003 - 09:15pm PT
We were all chiming in like smartasses because we're all bored and something this insane had to be a troll. Now that talk continues, unbelievably, it should probably be repeated that this is a very stupid idea. There is no way to tell from the summit how many parties have just started up the lower pitches. How much loose rock do you and your ropes plan to pull down? As stated, the route has several large traverses. Plan on leaving tons of sling and a not insignificant amount of your own gear. And all to check out the route? Is this a hard sport proj all of a sudden? The very purpose of a big wall is to present a large amount of unknown, adventurous climbing.

Trad climber
South Orange County, CA
Oct 2, 2003 - 09:29pm PT
Son, if yor IQ was 2 points higher, you’d be a rock. Appar’ntly, yor chimney’s a bit clogged or perhaps you just be on the battin’ end of a no-hitter. Which is it? Now most folks, they drinks from the fountain a knowledge—it appears you only gargled. WHAT the hell you thinkin’?

Yor elevator, it don’t quite make it ta the Penthouse now does it, boy; or is it just stuck between flors? If’n I had ta guess, I’d say you got yoself the mental agility of a soap dish. Rappel off’a Half Dome…yo’re kiddin’ right? This is a troll, gotta be. You ain’t wrapped too tight now are ya? At least yo’re prob’ly makin’ yoself some xtra cash rentin’ out that thar empty space between yor ears.

Ladies and Gentlemens, thar he is: the man wit two brains—unfortunately one’s lost and ta’other one’s out looking fo it! Son, yo’re drivin’ wit only 3 wheels and one o’ dems is goin’ flat. Come on back inta the house now, ya hear, before you hurts yoself.

Hopefullys, I gots all my spellings correctly dun, sos ya'll won't tars and fethers me.

Seriously, read, "ANAC" more often and you'll find that, "(in mountaineering) the act or method of moving down a steep incline or past an overhang by means of a...rope secured above and placed around the body [or through a mechanical device designed for the purpose] and paid out gradually," ain't's dangerous. Why expose yourself when you have the option, especially since walking down would be considerably faster?

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
Oct 2, 2003 - 10:06pm PT
I'm just here for the chics!

Big Wall climber
stoney point,ca
Oct 2, 2003 - 10:12pm PT
greetings from the wall man who starts fire's, but only to cure the ugly nature of things.

Rapp a route or rapp'ing a tree whatever the situation.Is it spelled correctly?
yesterday I sat in english and I was laughed at. O.K, I quess I said something stupid. Mistakes are what teaches all of us.Right?
rappeling the regular route would be alot of hard work. I would feel more comfortable having you as my partner, than those who were quick to criticise.
Rapping that part of the wall would be much more easier than the sections in the middle or the right side. The photography whould be spectacular. But the funny part would be pissing of climbers who think they are the "center of the universe". GO FOR IT! RCM.

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 3, 2003 - 03:23am PT
I know it's been a while since the Supertopo forum has seen any attempts at trolling, but COME ON PEOPLE! Pull it together!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 3, 2003 - 03:26am PT
I could understand how it would be fun to rap a huge face like Half Dome, but....

The Regular Route on Half Dome traverses around, has tons of stuff to hang ropes up on, has loose rock that could take out other parties, and you couldn't see if other folks were on the route or not from the top.

The Direct on Half Dome is more direct but you would have to rap sh#t chimney and there's funky rock on it too.

To spice up your snake dike ascent, hike down the death slabs.


Southern Man

Oct 3, 2003 - 08:28am PT
To add to what Karl said, be prepared to leave gear behind since there are no anchors on pitches 12, 16, 17, 19, 20, and 21. If you use the bare minimum of two pieces of protection to rap these pitches alone you will leave behind twelve pieces of pro., either twelve nonlocking biners or 6 locking biners. Also, at least two pitches of the RNWF have only one anchor, pitches 23 and 18 if my memory is correct. So add at least two more pieces of pro. and one or two more biners to the list of gear that will end up on the next parties rack. Finally, plan on leaving behind several runners because some of the anchors you'll build will need them. You might want to check out the ST beta section for this route since it has rapping info. for retreating parties. And let me know when you plan to rap 1/2 dome, I need the gear.
Wade Icey

Oct 3, 2003 - 10:00am PT
Dear Troll-
A much more aesthetic descent would be to rap Zenith or Big Chill. For extra style points I suggest the Marine Corps/SWAT Team headfirst method. It's faster. Don't forget your 'reppelling' gloves.
Just trying to help,

Ice climber
Oct 3, 2003 - 11:19am PT
If you're too cool to go down the "wussy" way...why go up the "wussy" way...Snake Dyke??? Come on man...

If your tough you'd solo Zeinith of Tis'si'ack, then you'd get plenty of non-wussy climbing and rappeling...
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