repelling down half dome

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Messages 1 - 56 of total 56 in this topic
crazyazid

climber
san diego, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 2, 2003 - 02:53pm PT
I bought a supertopo book and I was looking at and had a question. I was thinking about climbing snake dike and repelling down the regular route on half dome. A lot of the pitches are 100-140 ft or so, which isn't a problem when you're climbing with a 50 or 60m rope, but is a problem when you're trying to repell down the same route. Is the repelling route different? Will I need two ropes to repell? Any beta would be helpful.
Mike

climber
Orange County CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2003 - 04:02pm PT
You can't be serious. That would be a bad idea. There's enough traffic on that route going upward - don't add to the mayhem on one of YV's most popular wall routes.

I can dig not taking the most beaten path, but you can come up with a more viable alternative than that. My beta is: think of something else.
Tradboy

Social climber
Valley
Oct 2, 2003 - 04:52pm PT
Aside from a couple of sections where the route traverses for a couple of pitches, you may want to take a couple of dozen bolts and links with you since more than half of the anchors are not bolted nor set up as rap stations.
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Oct 2, 2003 - 05:59pm PT
Why woud you do this?
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Oct 2, 2003 - 07:33pm PT
Dude, it's spelled rapelling. With an RA. However, your idea is repelling.
Ben Rumsen

Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
Oct 2, 2003 - 08:01pm PT
Kris, it's spelled rappeling - and rapp'ing Half Dome is, well, why ??
yo

Sport climber
Fresno, CA
Oct 2, 2003 - 08:26pm PT
Dude,
You're supposed to go up the Reg Route and rap Snake Dike. Freakin tourist...
crazyazid

climber
san diego, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2003 - 08:27pm PT
Sorry I missed spell rappelling-big deal. Why would I do this? Why not, seems fun. Don't people climb up the route and then rappel down when they're done, or does everyone just wuss out and hike down? And there's no way I would do it on a busy day, I was thinking of going during a weekday, and definetly not near any holidays. I'd look over the edge and if it was busy, then I'd take the hike down. If not, I'd like to be able to rappel down for the fun and excitement of it. It's the best way to check out the route without climbing it.
crazyazid

climber
san diego, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2003 - 08:31pm PT
Thanks Tradboy for being the only one who had any constructive advice to offer. If you don't want me going down that route, are they any other less busy routes you guys wouldn't mind me rappeling (I finally spelled it right). Damn, so quick to judge instead of trying to help.
crazyazid

climber
san diego, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2003 - 08:36pm PT
what about the northwest route? anything? anyone?
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Oct 2, 2003 - 08:41pm PT
I guess I can't spell either. But I didn't read tradboy's advice to drill your way down placing bolted anchors as constructive. He was being sarcastic, no?

Have you ever rappeled down such a large face before? Ever had the rope jam or get caught behind a flake 100 ft over your head? Most climbers I know don't volunteer for this sort of duty, but only do it when they have to. Since when is using some common sense "wussing out"?
yo

Sport climber
Fresno, CA
Oct 2, 2003 - 09:15pm PT
We were all chiming in like smartasses because we're all bored and something this insane had to be a troll. Now that talk continues, unbelievably, it should probably be repeated that this is a very stupid idea. There is no way to tell from the summit how many parties have just started up the lower pitches. How much loose rock do you and your ropes plan to pull down? As stated, the route has several large traverses. Plan on leaving tons of sling and a not insignificant amount of your own gear. And all to check out the route? Is this a hard sport proj all of a sudden? The very purpose of a big wall is to present a large amount of unknown, adventurous climbing.
Thom

Trad climber
South Orange County, CA
Oct 2, 2003 - 09:29pm PT
Son, if yor IQ was 2 points higher, you’d be a rock. Appar’ntly, yor chimney’s a bit clogged or perhaps you just be on the battin’ end of a no-hitter. Which is it? Now most folks, they drinks from the fountain a knowledge—it appears you only gargled. WHAT the hell you thinkin’?

Yor elevator, it don’t quite make it ta the Penthouse now does it, boy; or is it just stuck between flors? If’n I had ta guess, I’d say you got yoself the mental agility of a soap dish. Rappel off’a Half Dome…yo’re kiddin’ right? This is a troll, gotta be. You ain’t wrapped too tight now are ya? At least yo’re prob’ly makin’ yoself some xtra cash rentin’ out that thar empty space between yor ears.

Ladies and Gentlemens, thar he is: the man wit two brains—unfortunately one’s lost and ta’other one’s out looking fo it! Son, yo’re drivin’ wit only 3 wheels and one o’ dems is goin’ flat. Come on back inta the house now, ya hear, before you hurts yoself.

Hopefullys, I gots all my spellings correctly dun, sos ya'll won't tars and fethers me.

Seriously, read, "ANAC" more often and you'll find that, "(in mountaineering) the act or method of moving down a steep incline or past an overhang by means of a...rope secured above and placed around the body [or through a mechanical device designed for the purpose] and paid out gradually," ain't fun...it's dangerous. Why expose yourself when you have the option, especially since walking down would be considerably faster?
vernon

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
Oct 2, 2003 - 10:06pm PT
I'm just here for the chics!
pyro

Big Wall climber
stoney point,ca
Oct 2, 2003 - 10:12pm PT
greetings from the wall man who starts fire's, but only to cure the ugly nature of things.

Rapp a route or rapp'ing a tree whatever the situation.Is it spelled correctly?
yesterday I sat in english and I was laughed at. O.K, I quess I said something stupid. Mistakes are what teaches all of us.Right?
rappeling the regular route would be alot of hard work. I would feel more comfortable having you as my partner, than those who were quick to criticise.
Rapping that part of the wall would be much more easier than the sections in the middle or the right side. The photography whould be spectacular. But the funny part would be pissing of climbers who think they are the "center of the universe". GO FOR IT! RCM.
BCD

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 3, 2003 - 03:23am PT
OK,
I know it's been a while since the Supertopo forum has seen any attempts at trolling, but COME ON PEOPLE! Pull it together!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 3, 2003 - 03:26am PT
I could understand how it would be fun to rap a huge face like Half Dome, but....

The Regular Route on Half Dome traverses around, has tons of stuff to hang ropes up on, has loose rock that could take out other parties, and you couldn't see if other folks were on the route or not from the top.

The Direct on Half Dome is more direct but you would have to rap sh#t chimney and there's funky rock on it too.

To spice up your snake dike ascent, hike down the death slabs.

Peace

karl
Southern Man

climber
Oct 3, 2003 - 08:28am PT
To add to what Karl said, be prepared to leave gear behind since there are no anchors on pitches 12, 16, 17, 19, 20, and 21. If you use the bare minimum of two pieces of protection to rap these pitches alone you will leave behind twelve pieces of pro., either twelve nonlocking biners or 6 locking biners. Also, at least two pitches of the RNWF have only one anchor, pitches 23 and 18 if my memory is correct. So add at least two more pieces of pro. and one or two more biners to the list of gear that will end up on the next parties rack. Finally, plan on leaving behind several runners because some of the anchors you'll build will need them. You might want to check out the ST beta section for this route since it has rapping info. for retreating parties. And let me know when you plan to rap 1/2 dome, I need the gear.
Wade Icey

climber
Oct 3, 2003 - 10:00am PT
Dear Troll-
A much more aesthetic descent would be to rap Zenith or Big Chill. For extra style points I suggest the Marine Corps/SWAT Team headfirst method. It's faster. Don't forget your 'reppelling' gloves.
Just trying to help,
Wade
Lambone

Ice climber
Seattle
Oct 3, 2003 - 11:19am PT
If you're too cool to go down the "wussy" way...why go up the "wussy" way...Snake Dyke??? Come on man...

If your tough you'd solo Zeinith of Tis'si'ack, then you'd get plenty of non-wussy climbing and rappeling...
crazyazid

climber
san diego, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2003 - 01:33pm PT
haha, finally someone noticed that I was climbing up the "wussy" route. So far the score seems to be a lot of don't do it to very few go for its, interesting
crazyazid

climber
san diego, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2003 - 01:36pm PT
Thanks for finally giving some advice guys. I got sick of the wise comments and sarcasm. So if a party was climbing the route and had to bail for some reason, bad weather lets say, they'd have to leave behind all that gear to rappel down? I would think a rock climbed as much as half dome would have stations or natural anchors to take advantage of
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Oct 3, 2003 - 04:46pm PT
"So if a party was climbing the route and had to bail for some reason, bad weather lets say, they'd have to leave behind all that gear to rappel down?"

Yep. Convenience anchors are for wusses.
crazyazid

climber
san diego, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2003 - 08:39pm PT
I guess I'm a wuss then who wants to try to be bad ass. =)
James

Gym climber
City by the Bay
Oct 3, 2003 - 08:53pm PT
try rappelling the nose or zodiac You will piss more people off and the are already bolt anchors to the ground. You just need two 50m ropes although you might be able to do it with one 70m

talk to the mad rappeler too He lives near the valley and has rappeled el cap a couple of times and I believe he is credited with the first descent of the glacier point apron He's 60 or so and crazy ask bernie at the mtn shop about him
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Oct 3, 2003 - 08:54pm PT
Maybe I should drill a rap route on the South Face... ya know, Rohrer style...
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Oct 3, 2003 - 08:56pm PT
Hey James, where did you come from? You're that homo gym climber guy that just tries to piss everybody off! ... ;)
Chalky Fingers

climber
Oct 3, 2003 - 11:01pm PT
This has got to be a troll. The idea of rappelling any large face that has a walk off is close to suicide. If you want to do it for fun go ahead, run it out, but don't expect anyone to come get you when you crater.
junglemowgli

Trad climber
Canada
Aug 21, 2014 - 01:09am PT
I think it would be sweet and fun to rap down. Is there not a low rated route with low traffic that can get rappelled down? Seems more fun and faster than taking the crowded cables down, and the decent hike will be quicker too. I don't understand all the criticism of the OP. Relax and recognize others had different opinions.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 21, 2014 - 01:51am PT
The world is sudenly full of morans, Cretans, and lame-brain stunters who know knot how to spell nor the widsom of the walk-off.

Crazyaid is a good name for ya.

STay safe, absay at your own risk and don't forget the gloves.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 21, 2014 - 02:49am PT
eleven years old, this topic is.....how the sh#t did you find it?


pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Aug 21, 2014 - 05:54am PT
11 years ago i was high on speed!

rap the dome would be so fun!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Aug 21, 2014 - 06:30am PT
Thom, good un.
sandstone conglomerate

climber
sharon conglomerate central
Aug 21, 2014 - 06:53am PT
I tell people I'm reverse-rappelling when TRing at the crag. It causes confusion, which can be amusing. The crowds at said crag are repelling, however.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 21, 2014 - 07:11am PT
So um, mouse? Are you a hungry fish this morning?

That lure was first trolled through the water eleven years ago, and caught a huge number of fish on the first page.

But then the line broke. The lure has been floating on the surface, ever since. Or maybe it was stuck to a log on the bottom of the lake. Until junglemowgli found it, and tied it onto his line.

But mouse - there you were, swimming around, the lure was barely even moving, trolled at like half a mile per hour - but you just COULDN'T resist hitting it! [If real fishing were only so easy - real fish seem smarter than half the people on an internet forum]

I sure hope there aren't any catfish swimming in your lake!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Aug 21, 2014 - 07:45am PT
Rap the South Face

Much better

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Aug 21, 2014 - 07:49am PT
Warbler- if one were to do that, what would you rap? Wayno would love to do snake dyke, but his gout wouldn't let him get all that hiking done, so we were talking about alternatives??
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 21, 2014 - 10:03am PT
I think I might have climbed with crazyazid in 2005 or so. Are you still around here? If I'm remembering correctly, he was the one I had a blind date with on Piece de Resistance on Moro Rock. We had our asses handed to us and bailed after 3 pitches.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Aug 21, 2014 - 11:16am PT
Rap the South Face

He should start with a bit smaller repel.

Maybe the SW face of Liberty Bell. If he can do that he's ready.
dave729

Trad climber
Western America
Aug 21, 2014 - 11:32am PT
What about going down that controversial route
on the great south-east face of Half Dome.
Seem to remember its loaded with bolts(?)
Finding it from the top though...?
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
Aug 21, 2014 - 11:43am PT
Herr Braun?
dindolino32

climber
san francisco
Aug 21, 2014 - 11:49am PT
hey mouse,
since everyone was so involved in proper spelling, did you mean moron or moran?
Moran (Irish: Ó Móráin) is a modern Irish surname and derived from membership of a medieval dynastic sept. The name means a descendent of Mórán, translated as Big One. Morans were a respected sept of the Uí Fiachrach dynasty in the western counties of Mayo and Sligo.
Are you calling everyone the "Big One", or idiots?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Aug 21, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
If I ever had the opportunity to replace the bolts of the tissasack root I would have bumped this thread...
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Aug 22, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
Seems like an earlier version of Weld-It or that poor guy Kris whats-a-Nut who got busted when his buddy whimped out on the rap of El Cap. Based on that thread Werner would be saying "go for it."


Just to have fun and annoy people, I'd like to climb and rap about 80 feet left (south) of the cable route some time. (no permit required)

OP point is moot now since the permit system. The cable walkdown, late in the day, is probably a breeze now.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 22, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
I think this is what Mouse was referring to....
Credit: throwpie
Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Aug 22, 2014 - 01:48pm PT
Tha's what I love about the Taco, it brings out all the "Super Tapados."
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Aug 22, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
Don't googlymoochy it up

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1886785&msg=2042802#msg2042802
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
Aug 22, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
^^^ upthread there someone suggested rapping the Zodiac instead. That made me laugh. I remember on one pitch I was 40 feet into the pitch when I realized I forgot the haul line. My partner lowered me but then I was way out in space. I had to swing my aiders back and forth to get a pendulum going, eventually was able to swing them into my partner's reach and he reeled me in. Most of the route is pretty steep like that.

Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Aug 22, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
"Well, right about that time people . . .
A fur-trapper, who was strictly from commercial,
had the unmitigated audacity to jump up from behind my igloo . . . peekaboo
and he started into whippin' on my favorite baby seal
with a lead-filled snowshoe . . ."
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Sep 9, 2014 - 01:33am PT
Dindolino32

Conas atá tú?

Also how come I can not click on crazyazid's or Mike's handles to see if they are trolls. And how come Mike's second post is highlighted like the OP's? I am going to contact the NSA about these guys. They know some tricks apparently.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Sep 9, 2014 - 03:27am PT
wait, didn't this guy want to rap el cap too..?

good find. weak troll by today's standard though.


edit: PS this was preregistration days.
JerryA

Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
Sep 9, 2014 - 07:48am PT
Walk down the cables ,hike around to the Face ,and descend to Mirror Lake . That descent is a classic .
Barbarian

climber
Sep 9, 2014 - 08:41am PT
Perhaps we should install a premanent rap route. That way we could evacuate people from the top of Half Dome without a fleet of helicopters. You never know when you might have a big fire or something...
Bushman

Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
Sep 9, 2014 - 10:21am PT
I briefly had a climbing partner who was a peak bagger and wanted to put El Cap on his resume. He knew I had done it with a decent success rate (six times up and one bail) and so he asked me to climb it with him. Turns out he got to El Cap tower a couple times and then bailed, so he wanted to rap the Nose to that point and then complete it. I couldn't get it through to him that that's just not how it's done. Not only would it be considered an incomplete ascent, it seemed crazier than just climbing it from the ground up. I took a pass and we parted ways after that.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 9, 2014 - 10:29am PT
The only thing repelling thing about Half Dome is the cable route.
Bushman

Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
Sep 9, 2014 - 10:40am PT
I could never get those bulky steel cables





to fit in through my rappel rig...





...That's okay.
If you slip there's a hiker every 30 feet to slow you down.
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