Fun and EASY climbs in Yos

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Messages 21 - 37 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Oct 16, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
Almost anything at the Cookie Sheet. Bring a 12-pack.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 17, 2014 - 02:03am PT
Aunt fannys pantry.
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 17, 2014 - 03:33am PT
What? Hmmm, you deleted your gibberish...
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Oct 17, 2014 - 06:27am PT
Is there a certain girl on this group you are hoping to impress? Then the easy climb needs to be in good view of a hard, impressive route you have done.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Oct 17, 2014 - 07:31am PT
Ditto on Looks Easy from Here's post^^^ Define your group. You need to realistically evaluate their abilities. If they "don't really climb" any multi pitch or anything involving rappelling is a really bad idea IMO.

When I take out groups of non-climber friends, I stick to single pitch,easy approach, non-intimidating, no rappelling, no freaky walk-offs, easy to get their feet back on solid ground if they don't dig it-type of climbs.

I'm not that familiar with the Valley moderates, but I think I'd actually avoid a classic like the Grack or Munginella out of courtesy for the other 20 noobs that would probably be pacing around while your group dinks around for hours.

Maybe something less classic and more practical? Lucky Pink and I set up some easy single-pitch stuff right there on Cookie Cliff. Cant remember the climbs.
WBraun

climber
Oct 17, 2014 - 07:58am PT
Bring a 12-pack.


That reminds me years ago at the cookie one day.

There were 3 guys with lots of beer cans.

I asked them what they were going to do.

They told me all the pitches they were going to do after drinking A (one) beer.

Later ...... after doing my pitches and leaving they are still in the same place as originally still drinking beer ......
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Oct 17, 2014 - 08:00am PT

6-packs...12 packs...is this a birthday weekend or just a regular outing?

Swan Slab, bring the keg!!!


already stoked to see the TR,
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Oct 17, 2014 - 08:21am PT
Is there a certain girl on this group you are hoping to impress?

Most dangerous move in climbing...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 17, 2014 - 09:47am PT
my experience is that if the person showing the visitors around is psyched, then almost any climb is Fun... as for easy, well, we all know that depends...

If you want a long free easy route, you're going to be climbing stuff that is mostly interrupted by vegetated ledges, wandering about, and with some "easy" technical moves that are going to feel hard...

Think early 1960's Sierra Club RCS

Pohono Pinnacle...
Circular Staircase...
Lunch Ledge (don't go higher)...
Michael's Ledge to the obvious rockfall hiatus... or other Lower Brother routes in Roper
Gunsight is a nice one... (though I've only ever been down it)

http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/climbing/ACGttHS/ACGttHS.html

what buttress were you all talking about?




a great outing if you want a very mellow walk in an oak forest...
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Oct 17, 2014 - 10:03am PT
...a few friends...
????
More than 2 friends????
only one experienced leader????

Multi-pitch is a recipe for emotional disaster and belay cluster f@@ks.
A certainty to queer some of them off climbing for the rest of their lives.
I'd stick with one pitch climbs that end on spacious ledges with GOOD anchors.

You definitely want routes with comfy belay ledges.

Go to base of El Cap, left side.
Have a fun warm up on Pine Line. With a TR there are several harder ways to climb the face to the right. Huge ledges, great views, excellent picnic/beer site. Fun For All Ages

If they're still eager, from the top belay them around the corner to the east to gawk up at the Nose.
Acrophobiacs need not apply.

If they're ready for more, go uphill to La Escuela. Now they're getting up in the air a bit.
Left side is great intro to 5.7 chimney.
Then TR the right side which has a tougher than it looks start.
There's also the hard center route to TR.

If by then you've weeded the gang down to 2 and there's still 2 hours of daylight, there's Little John right side.

Grack is not a good place for a NOOB crowd. Neither is Harry Daley. Nor any of the 5 open books. There are 3 or 4 one pitch wonders just to the left of Harry Daley. I haven't done any of them in a long long time.

Other possibilities at Manure Pile Buttress
Jump For Joy
After Six pitch1
After Seven pitch1

You want something steep, hard and one pitch?
Lena's Lieback. However not much of a belay ledge so you can't bring the gang all up at once.

Sunnyside Jamcrack P1 could be fun. Likely busy.

Sunnyside bench regular route? Perhaps, but not very entertaining climbing. Don't even try to take a gaggle of NOOBs on the walk off route. Rapp instead.

Aunt Fanny's Pantry?
MEH unless you plan to teach them to lead. In which case it's pretty good.

Pat n' Jack has plenty of fun single pitch routes all close together. Not particularly scenic.

EDIT: Ed's list is great for full day adventures.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Oct 17, 2014 - 10:46am PT
If these people are noobs, putting them on anything harder than 5.2 is a mistake.

Hell, putting me on anything harder than 5.2 is a mistake.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 17, 2014 - 11:38am PT
Height Reverse, that is LENNA'S LIEBACK, not Lena's.

And it's a good place to n00b out, because the bar's right across the street from Swann y slabb (that's the Welsh spellin' for ya).

The Mountain Room's where you go to drown your sorrows when you FAIL on the moves ten feet off the deck!

"It looked so straightforward, too. Sh!t. 5.9, let's go to the BAR! Screw the coffee shop."
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2014 - 11:52am PT
Sunnyside bench is as lame as it gets unless it is taken as an approach to that canyoneering thing. Worse than Royal Arches even. That walk down is sh#t, and climb up is more of an annoying scramble, even for a noob.

They range from climb at the gym a few times and outdoors a few times to followed me on a multi pitch 5.10. There are more than a few and I don’t think I want to explain experience level for 5 different people, lol. We will have more than one leader, but I am sure it will be a cluster f*#k. Hopefully a fun one lol. Basically looking for a beginner friendly routes that would not take all day. I think I have a bunch of new choices, thank you for responses! We gonna do Freerider! It has a good view of Ho Chi Minh Trail : ) haha
DesertRatExpeditions

Trad climber
Flagstaff, Arizona
Oct 17, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
I'll put in a vote for The Grack.. It's not always crazy crowded...
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Oct 17, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
Cookie Sheet, Harry Daley, Point Beyond are all good. The Grack has some small belay sites, so it could get rather crowded. Point Beyond has a neat belay ledge that will hold about four, a short approach, and fun climbing. The real Harry Daley differs from what's in ST. The ST version shows the first pitch of the Chouinard Variation, rather than the Daley Route. That's more direct, but the "real" Daley route starts farther to the right, and is generally less sustained but interesting in its own way. I've combined Point Beyond and the Daley Route for a fun climb. In the last few years, that area has not been particularly crowded.

I would not recommend the "regular route" on Lower Cathedral Spire. The approach and descent are long, and the rock, for the most part, isn't the greatest. The crux pitch is nicely exposed, though. I've enjoyed Lunch Ledge over the years as a solo, but it has quite a bit of rotten rock. It does have some fun raps, and some exposure for minimal effort. The Ledge itself, however, is rather disappointing, and the belay tree infested with killer ants.

The Church Tower has a fun, very easy, route on its east arête. The first pitch is steep, the rest is mainly easy traversing until the summit. It's usually deserted.

I'm sure you'll have fun, whatever you choose.

John
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
There is a good OW pitch on the west side of Jack pinnacle. I think I should take a few to do that one..very cool summit.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 17, 2014 - 08:14pm PT
Pat and Jack has lots of cool options for you guys V!

Nurdle of course is the classic moderate sub 5.10 route here. Then hit up sherrie's for some tope rope education on classic 10b granite fingers.

Boneheads is a 10b one move bolted wonder that finishes in beautiful knobs, makayla's climb a bolted 5.8 face climb, babble on was super fun too as was suds. Most climbs are single pitch, some require two ropes to toprope.

Lots of other options there too. Have fun!!
Messages 21 - 37 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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