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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2014 - 05:05pm PT
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I have a birthday coming up and gonna try taking a few friends who don't really climb, but are fit, up something really cool. Thinking of doing that easy 5th route on Lower Cathedral Spire or maybe something at 5 open books, followed by generator crack (jk). Maybe ejesta? Sellangenella, commitment and a hike to the top of falls could be cool, but falls are empty...
I hate royal arches, and taking beginners up an easy but long route would be hell, so don't mention that one.
Anyone has ideas? Scenic and not too crowded with good climbing. Lol. My other idea was snake dike but I think it is too long of a day for them...maybe I should do snake dike with an early start, but I'm afraid I will finish late and be tired from the climb I will do on my actual bday..should I suck it up?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 16, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
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I used to like you..
But you hate RA?
I therefore recommend Lembert Dome
See picture below
On a more serious note, Waddabout Tenaya peak? If still available?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Oct 16, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
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I always found the Rostrum from the notch to be a be a real wow factor climb for beginners. They get to rap and they get this instant exposure on the short 5.6 route to the top of the Rostrum.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 16, 2014 - 06:09pm PT
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Snake Dike was the first thing I thought of too, with an early start. But you know I don't know much about Yosemite so there are probably other ideas out there.
If I were a non-climber in good shape I think I would have a blast on that.
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Oct 16, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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Split Pin
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 16, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
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Just do Free Rider.
It's fun and easy n00b climb ......
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
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Werner, lol maybe I can ask my noob friends to haul me up that.
Hiking to the yosemite falls is hell. At least it was when I hiked up there with 5 gallons of water and a rack for my first big wall..in the middle of July. That was a noob move for sure
..
Good idea cliffhanger
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 16, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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Hike up regular route to get there.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Oct 16, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
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The Grack, now taking reservations for spring 2015
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Oct 16, 2014 - 08:03pm PT
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++ on the Grack. Harry Daley, too.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 16, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
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After six with the CS Concerto first pitch start.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Oct 16, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
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I always take beginners to After Six and After Seven.
If they are adventureous you could find a fun one pitch around the base of ElCap. Then they can say they climbed (on) El Cap.
Yes, Royal Arches is a lousy place for beginners. Some fun short climbs near there off in the trees. Plus you're close to your room at the Awahnee so it's easy to freshen up afterward.
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Yury
Mountain climber
T.O.
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Oct 16, 2014 - 08:37pm PT
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For complete newbies nothing would beat Half Dome "Cables" route with cables down.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 16, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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I like taking beginners on Point Beyond. Only 5.7, but multipitch.
Mostly face climbing, so it's friendly for beginners.
The regular route on Lower Cathedral Spire has a 5.9 move.
Plus the rappels are very exposed. (Maybe that is good).
But you would want to belay them if they haven't rapped before.
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Oct 16, 2014 - 08:41pm PT
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Although you mentioned that your friends are pretty fit, you mentioned that they are not really climbers. How are they with exposure? I know some people who are very fit, but get them in a position with lots of exposure and they will freeze. I think climbs like those that people suggested on Glacier Point Apron would be great since the exposure is very gradual. I did some of my first leads in Yosemite on Glacier Point Apron.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 16, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
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Warbler i've done that climb-spent the day up there and at Little Wing, i think...
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john hansen
climber
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Oct 16, 2014 - 09:14pm PT
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The 5.5 to bishop's balcony, has worked for me.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Oct 16, 2014 - 10:00pm PT
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What do you mean by "don't really climb"? Like, "don't climb, really", or like "get a day pass to the gym every couple months, and one or two of them have been outside before, just not recently"? Because if it's the first one, people here are suggesting stuff that's way too serial. 5.8 Valley granite splitters? Fergitaboutit. Fitness, schmitness, think of technique and psychology.
Also, re: multipitch-how many leaders, or are you going to be conga-lining them up?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Oct 16, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
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Sunnyside Bench Reg. Route. Bring a 6-pack.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Oct 16, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
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Almost anything at the Cookie Sheet. Bring a 12-pack.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 17, 2014 - 02:03am PT
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Aunt fannys pantry.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 17, 2014 - 03:33am PT
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What? Hmmm, you deleted your gibberish...
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 17, 2014 - 06:27am PT
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Is there a certain girl on this group you are hoping to impress? Then the easy climb needs to be in good view of a hard, impressive route you have done.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Oct 17, 2014 - 07:31am PT
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Ditto on Looks Easy from Here's post^^^ Define your group. You need to realistically evaluate their abilities. If they "don't really climb" any multi pitch or anything involving rappelling is a really bad idea IMO.
When I take out groups of non-climber friends, I stick to single pitch,easy approach, non-intimidating, no rappelling, no freaky walk-offs, easy to get their feet back on solid ground if they don't dig it-type of climbs.
I'm not that familiar with the Valley moderates, but I think I'd actually avoid a classic like the Grack or Munginella out of courtesy for the other 20 noobs that would probably be pacing around while your group dinks around for hours.
Maybe something less classic and more practical? Lucky Pink and I set up some easy single-pitch stuff right there on Cookie Cliff. Cant remember the climbs.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 17, 2014 - 07:58am PT
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Bring a 12-pack.
That reminds me years ago at the cookie one day.
There were 3 guys with lots of beer cans.
I asked them what they were going to do.
They told me all the pitches they were going to do after drinking A (one) beer.
Later ...... after doing my pitches and leaving they are still in the same place as originally still drinking beer ......
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Oct 17, 2014 - 08:00am PT
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6-packs...12 packs...is this a birthday weekend or just a regular outing?
Swan Slab, bring the keg!!!
already stoked to see the TR,
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Oct 17, 2014 - 08:21am PT
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Is there a certain girl on this group you are hoping to impress?
Most dangerous move in climbing...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 17, 2014 - 09:47am PT
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my experience is that if the person showing the visitors around is psyched, then almost any climb is Fun... as for easy, well, we all know that depends...
If you want a long free easy route, you're going to be climbing stuff that is mostly interrupted by vegetated ledges, wandering about, and with some "easy" technical moves that are going to feel hard...
Think early 1960's Sierra Club RCS
Pohono Pinnacle...
Circular Staircase...
Lunch Ledge (don't go higher)...
Michael's Ledge to the obvious rockfall hiatus... or other Lower Brother routes in Roper
Gunsight is a nice one... (though I've only ever been down it)
http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/climbing/ACGttHS/ACGttHS.html
what buttress were you all talking about?
a great outing if you want a very mellow walk in an oak forest...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Oct 17, 2014 - 10:03am PT
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...a few friends... ????
More than 2 friends????
only one experienced leader????
Multi-pitch is a recipe for emotional disaster and belay cluster f@@ks.
A certainty to queer some of them off climbing for the rest of their lives.
I'd stick with one pitch climbs that end on spacious ledges with GOOD anchors.
You definitely want routes with comfy belay ledges.
Go to base of El Cap, left side.
Have a fun warm up on Pine Line. With a TR there are several harder ways to climb the face to the right. Huge ledges, great views, excellent picnic/beer site. Fun For All Ages
If they're still eager, from the top belay them around the corner to the east to gawk up at the Nose.
Acrophobiacs need not apply.
If they're ready for more, go uphill to La Escuela. Now they're getting up in the air a bit.
Left side is great intro to 5.7 chimney.
Then TR the right side which has a tougher than it looks start.
There's also the hard center route to TR.
If by then you've weeded the gang down to 2 and there's still 2 hours of daylight, there's Little John right side.
Grack is not a good place for a NOOB crowd. Neither is Harry Daley. Nor any of the 5 open books. There are 3 or 4 one pitch wonders just to the left of Harry Daley. I haven't done any of them in a long long time.
Other possibilities at Manure Pile Buttress
Jump For Joy
After Six pitch1
After Seven pitch1
You want something steep, hard and one pitch?
Lena's Lieback. However not much of a belay ledge so you can't bring the gang all up at once.
Sunnyside Jamcrack P1 could be fun. Likely busy.
Sunnyside bench regular route? Perhaps, but not very entertaining climbing. Don't even try to take a gaggle of NOOBs on the walk off route. Rapp instead.
Aunt Fanny's Pantry?
MEH unless you plan to teach them to lead. In which case it's pretty good.
Pat n' Jack has plenty of fun single pitch routes all close together. Not particularly scenic.
EDIT: Ed's list is great for full day adventures.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Oct 17, 2014 - 10:46am PT
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If these people are noobs, putting them on anything harder than 5.2 is a mistake.
Hell, putting me on anything harder than 5.2 is a mistake.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 17, 2014 - 11:38am PT
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Height Reverse, that is LENNA'S LIEBACK, not Lena's.
And it's a good place to n00b out, because the bar's right across the street from Swann y slabb (that's the Welsh spellin' for ya).
The Mountain Room's where you go to drown your sorrows when you FAIL on the moves ten feet off the deck!
"It looked so straightforward, too. Sh!t. 5.9, let's go to the BAR! Screw the coffee shop."
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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Sunnyside bench is as lame as it gets unless it is taken as an approach to that canyoneering thing. Worse than Royal Arches even. That walk down is sh#t, and climb up is more of an annoying scramble, even for a noob.
They range from climb at the gym a few times and outdoors a few times to followed me on a multi pitch 5.10. There are more than a few and I don’t think I want to explain experience level for 5 different people, lol. We will have more than one leader, but I am sure it will be a cluster f*#k. Hopefully a fun one lol. Basically looking for a beginner friendly routes that would not take all day. I think I have a bunch of new choices, thank you for responses! We gonna do Freerider! It has a good view of Ho Chi Minh Trail : ) haha
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DesertRatExpeditions
Trad climber
Flagstaff, Arizona
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Oct 17, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
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I'll put in a vote for The Grack.. It's not always crazy crowded...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 17, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
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Cookie Sheet, Harry Daley, Point Beyond are all good. The Grack has some small belay sites, so it could get rather crowded. Point Beyond has a neat belay ledge that will hold about four, a short approach, and fun climbing. The real Harry Daley differs from what's in ST. The ST version shows the first pitch of the Chouinard Variation, rather than the Daley Route. That's more direct, but the "real" Daley route starts farther to the right, and is generally less sustained but interesting in its own way. I've combined Point Beyond and the Daley Route for a fun climb. In the last few years, that area has not been particularly crowded.
I would not recommend the "regular route" on Lower Cathedral Spire. The approach and descent are long, and the rock, for the most part, isn't the greatest. The crux pitch is nicely exposed, though. I've enjoyed Lunch Ledge over the years as a solo, but it has quite a bit of rotten rock. It does have some fun raps, and some exposure for minimal effort. The Ledge itself, however, is rather disappointing, and the belay tree infested with killer ants.
The Church Tower has a fun, very easy, route on its east arête. The first pitch is steep, the rest is mainly easy traversing until the summit. It's usually deserted.
I'm sure you'll have fun, whatever you choose.
John
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
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There is a good OW pitch on the west side of Jack pinnacle. I think I should take a few to do that one..very cool summit.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 17, 2014 - 08:14pm PT
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Pat and Jack has lots of cool options for you guys V!
Nurdle of course is the classic moderate sub 5.10 route here. Then hit up sherrie's for some tope rope education on classic 10b granite fingers.
Boneheads is a 10b one move bolted wonder that finishes in beautiful knobs, makayla's climb a bolted 5.8 face climb, babble on was super fun too as was suds. Most climbs are single pitch, some require two ropes to toprope.
Lots of other options there too. Have fun!!
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