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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 26, 2014 - 10:11pm PT
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All 5.9 and under:
Bishops Terrace(!)
Church Bowl Chimney 5.6+++++
La Cosita, left
Little John: first right, then left(left can stink from Salathe effluvia)
After 6,7 Nutcracker (take a number)
Right side of Reeds Pinnacle
those routes up by Cascade Creek.
* Probably the best advice is to go up to the Meadows *
Harry Daley (closed due to rock fall?)
Central Pillar of the Frenzy. get up way early and take a number.
Oh, and North Dome, Regular Route. It's only 5.7 ;-)
Sincerely, I'm not sure what I would climb there the first time, or even if/when I got back. Get in shape and do Snake Dike and Royal Arches?
Someone upstream said Little Wing area, but for an intro to the Valley, that might be tough. What about This and That? There was a pretty soft 5.9 that I led up there on the far right side.
(I reserve the right to pull this!)
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 26, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
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Don't listen to these people.
Come to the Valley and eat pizza, drink beer and watch television like normal people.
Climbing is stoopid
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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Avoid the Rangers.
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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CHECK OUT...LAZY BUM 5.10D
AVOID THE CAMP 4 BATHROOM AT ALL COST
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Stonequest's straight up and down, bolted anchors, close to road, and multipitch.
Enjoy valley runout moderate.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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1 day? Drive immediately to el cap meadow.. run to the base of el-cap..touch it..climb up a ways...come down and wander around for a while.
Go back to the meadow..
drink beer.. and dream.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Upon entering the Valley--watch your speed. The rangers are always lurking, waiting to give you a ticket!
As Jim Donini suggest, make sure you get in The Central Pillar of Frenzy, sometime during your visit. Also, for a longer day, I suggest the NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock. A great route, in a nice setting.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Just find yourself a decent partner in Camp 4. Then start out on climbs well below your self-perceived abilities and you won't be disappointed.
From what you've said, the 5 Open Books is a good area for you; start on Munginella, then Commitment . Manure Pile Buttress has lots of climbing in the range you mentioned, especially Nutcracker ( 3 different starts at different difficulty levels). My personal favorite, however, always was After Seven.
The slick granite seems to have impressed several of my European climbing friends, and it can be disconcerting for someone used to climbing on Dolomite, Verdon Limestone, or Alpine Granite ala Chamonix.
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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Psilocyborg
walk up valley on the trail from lower yosemite falls until you pass by the stables, then hit talus. Head up the talus until you can head left on the bench. Go check out lower yosemite falls. Enjoy.
Yosemite Falls webcam
Hopefully they turn the falls back on when you are there. . .
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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I'm guessing this guy can pull down just fine, slick Yosemite granite or not. He prolly already has kept his goals conservative and is good for grades well above.
Arne
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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What Darwin and The Warbler said. I was mentally making the same list as I read the thread.
As someone said earlier, even very good Euro climbers can have trouble with Yosemite off widths/chimneys. I recall two well known and very accomplished Brits who came back from The Folly quite thrashed and humbled.
Little John left and La Cosita left are good warmup off width/Chimneys. Not to mention Royal Arches Pitch 1 and Church Bowl chimneys.
I also second Snake Dike. A stupendous outing, just be very careful on the first pitch if you're soloing.
Royal Arches for a fun and moderate classic. You can easily run up most of it. Beware the first pitch chimney, you can't easily protect it.
Another vote for Regular route on Higher Cathedral Spire
All three of these climbs get you Way Up There with minimal hazard.
Oh
Get going early to beat the inevitable October crowds and the short days. There's no funicular to get you back to the Valley ;-)
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Fletcher
Gym climber
A very quiet place
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Echoing again what Ed said:
> a better use of a day would be to scope out the approaches to the base of the climbs on your list,
> and getting a measure of the place... maybe even talking to climbers you'd encounter on
> your path.
Always a good idea, and it's not a bad place to just wander around. Kinda beautiful in its own way. :-)
I have probably spent eons wander around looking for crags and climbs. Often hopelessly off target. I once missed an entire ridge of a huge mountain (west) and managed to convince myself and another experienced partner (not in that area, obviously!) that the ridge we were on (north) was actually the east. Tales of woe and intrigue ensued. At least it gets me out of the house! :-)
Eric
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You said you might not have a partner the first day. If that is the case there are three climbs easily top roped that can serve as a nice introduction.....Five and Dime, Chingando and Generator Crack. They are also all in the same vicinity.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Sep 30, 2014 - 07:14am PT
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bumping
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Sep 30, 2014 - 08:03am PT
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If you climb cracks in Orco then I suspect you will adapt to the valley's cracks pretty quickly......
Steve
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