1st valley day suggestion(s) ?


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the Fet

Aug 26, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
Some of the best climbs for this are going to be some of the most popular climbs. But I bet an efficient solo climber could be faster than many of the newer teams that also get on these climbs, especially when you get an inexperienced team of 3 crawling up them.

You could talk to anyone around the base of a climb you are interested and work something out. They might agree to climb with you rather than wait for you to solo it. No hard and fast rules around soloing just talk to the people there, be courteous and try to work something out.

As I mentioned go to swan slabs, el cap base, or church bowl where there are multiple options and look for something with no one on it.

Bishops terrace at church bowl is a classic and a can be done as 1 pitch and rapped off with 2 ropes. But it's super popular. You never know though, I've been there with no one else around.

La costa 5.7 or 5.9 depending on who you talk to is also really good has bolt anchors, but is popular.


Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Aug 26, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
Have fun, enjoy the beautiful scenery and figure it out as you go . . . Little Wing area is sweet for single pitches.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 26, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
If nothing else works out....we are talking about one day, right. Set up a top rope on Generator Crack. Next to the road, easy to rig and there is no better way to introduce yourself to the thugish side of Yosemite.

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 26, 2014 - 10:11pm PT
All 5.9 and under:

Bishops Terrace(!)
Church Bowl Chimney 5.6+++++

La Cosita, left
Little John: first right, then left(left can stink from Salathe effluvia)

After 6,7 Nutcracker (take a number)

Right side of Reeds Pinnacle

those routes up by Cascade Creek.

* Probably the best advice is to go up to the Meadows *

Harry Daley (closed due to rock fall?)

Central Pillar of the Frenzy. get up way early and take a number.

Oh, and North Dome, Regular Route. It's only 5.7 ;-)

Sincerely, I'm not sure what I would climb there the first time, or even if/when I got back. Get in shape and do Snake Dike and Royal Arches?

Someone upstream said Little Wing area, but for an intro to the Valley, that might be tough. What about This and That? There was a pretty soft 5.9 that I led up there on the far right side.

(I reserve the right to pull this!)


Aug 26, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
Don't listen to these people.

Come to the Valley and eat pizza, drink beer and watch television like normal people.

Climbing is stoopid

Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
Sep 2, 2014 - 10:57am PT
Avoid the Rangers.

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
Sep 2, 2014 - 07:23pm PT


Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Sep 2, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
Stonequest's straight up and down, bolted anchors, close to road, and multipitch.

Enjoy valley runout moderate.

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Sep 2, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
1 day? Drive immediately to el cap meadow.. run to the base of el-cap..touch it..climb up a ways...come down and wander around for a while.

Go back to the meadow..

drink beer.. and dream.
Captain...or Skully

in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
Sep 2, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
5.2~5.12 boulder.

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Sep 3, 2014 - 05:02am PT
Upon entering the Valley--watch your speed. The rangers are always lurking, waiting to give you a ticket!
As Jim Donini suggest, make sure you get in The Central Pillar of Frenzy, sometime during your visit. Also, for a longer day, I suggest the NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock. A great route, in a nice setting.

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 3, 2014 - 07:55am PT
Just find yourself a decent partner in Camp 4. Then start out on climbs well below your self-perceived abilities and you won't be disappointed.
From what you've said, the 5 Open Books is a good area for you; start on Munginella, then Commitment . Manure Pile Buttress has lots of climbing in the range you mentioned, especially Nutcracker ( 3 different starts at different difficulty levels). My personal favorite, however, always was After Seven.

The slick granite seems to have impressed several of my European climbing friends, and it can be disconcerting for someone used to climbing on Dolomite, Verdon Limestone, or Alpine Granite ala Chamonix.

East of Heaven
Sep 3, 2014 - 08:46am PT

walk up valley on the trail from lower yosemite falls until you pass by the stables, then hit talus. Head up the talus until you can head left on the bench. Go check out lower yosemite falls. Enjoy.

Yosemite Falls webcam

Hopefully they turn the falls back on when you are there. . .

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Sep 8, 2014 - 08:49am PT
I'm guessing this guy can pull down just fine, slick Yosemite granite or not. He prolly already has kept his goals conservative and is good for grades well above.

The Warbler

the edge of America
Sep 8, 2014 - 09:18am PT
Hike up The Spires Gully and do the Regular Route on Higher Spire.

Surreal location, great views, good, varied climbing to one of The Valley's most classic summits.

A dramatic introduction to The Valley, I know because it was the second route I ever did there.

Trad climber
Bay Area
Sep 8, 2014 - 10:40am PT
What Darwin and The Warbler said. I was mentally making the same list as I read the thread.

As someone said earlier, even very good Euro climbers can have trouble with Yosemite off widths/chimneys. I recall two well known and very accomplished Brits who came back from The Folly quite thrashed and humbled.
Little John left and La Cosita left are good warmup off width/Chimneys. Not to mention Royal Arches Pitch 1 and Church Bowl chimneys.

I also second Snake Dike. A stupendous outing, just be very careful on the first pitch if you're soloing.
Royal Arches for a fun and moderate classic. You can easily run up most of it. Beware the first pitch chimney, you can't easily protect it.
Another vote for Regular route on Higher Cathedral Spire
All three of these climbs get you Way Up There with minimal hazard.

Get going early to beat the inevitable October crowds and the short days. There's no funicular to get you back to the Valley ;-)

Gym climber
A very quiet place
Sep 8, 2014 - 10:50am PT
Echoing again what Ed said:

> a better use of a day would be to scope out the approaches to the base of the climbs on your list,
> and getting a measure of the place... maybe even talking to climbers you'd encounter on
> your path.

Always a good idea, and it's not a bad place to just wander around. Kinda beautiful in its own way. :-)

I have probably spent eons wander around looking for crags and climbs. Often hopelessly off target. I once missed an entire ridge of a huge mountain (west) and managed to convince myself and another experienced partner (not in that area, obviously!) that the ridge we were on (north) was actually the east. Tales of woe and intrigue ensued. At least it gets me out of the house! :-)


Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2014 - 12:12pm PT
thanks for all the replies

The slick granite seems to have impressed several of my European climbing friends, and it can be disconcerting for someone used to climbing on Dolomite, Verdon Limestone, or Alpine Granite ala Chamonix.

then i'm lucky having never climbed on dolo choss and only three times in cham! :D

my training grounds, other than a small crack machine hanging from a tree in a corsican campground (!) look like the following:

(just to show these euro crack oddities really. is there any pocketed/tufa'ed bolted limestone in the US? :D )

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 8, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
You said you might not have a partner the first day. If that is the case there are three climbs easily top roped that can serve as a nice introduction.....Five and Dime, Chingando and Generator Crack. They are also all in the same vicinity.

Kennewick wa
Sep 30, 2014 - 07:14am PT
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