Discussion Topic |
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ghisino
climber
Italy/France
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 26, 2014 - 02:53am PT
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hi,
i'll be in yosemite this october.
my trip partners (who get there a few days before me) will probably be on the wall on my 1st day.
so i'm looking for routes or bouldering suggestions to spend my 1st day, in case i can't find a partner for the day.
ideally something that meets one of the following descriptions:
1)short multipitch (up to 500 feet?), 5.8-5.10 range, bomber anchors (bolts or massive trees), well protectable with double cams up to c4 #3, short pitches, easy to retreat from (=good self belay free route)
2)single pitches that can be easily accessed from above (fixed line & microtrax). Ideally good training pitches for multipich free and "mostly free" routes (astroman, regular NW, east buttress, freerider, nose, etc...)
3)boulders with safe landings and/or lots of people (lots of pads and spotters)
i can give europe and fontainebleau beta in exchange :)
thank you
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Aug 26, 2014 - 03:25am PT
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just drink tons of f*#king wine and
wander through the boulders and meadows
and get acquainted with the tilted
reality that governs the vagina of the sierras.
one of the boulders is the sweet spot.
it's your job to find it, and
she'll be especially pleased when
you surmount it.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Aug 26, 2014 - 06:47am PT
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Norweegie the tour bus announcer.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 26, 2014 - 06:52am PT
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But the Black Canyon is a tighter hole.....must be younger.
Unfortunately, many Valley routes have been "comfortized" with bolted belays.....but certainly not all. This isn't Europe, if you want to trad climb in the USA, learn how to be comfortable building anchors.
A route that fits your requirements perfectly is the Central Pillar of Frenzy. Get there early or wait in line....a lot of people like "comfortized" climbs.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 26, 2014 - 09:23am PT
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lots of recommendations, but generally any of the multi-star routes in the variety of guides that are out there indicate quality routes...
the problem would be sharing them with the other visiting climbers looking for a similar set of climbing experiences... roped soloist tend to be slower than roped teams, and it is considered bad style to occupy quality routes with the often laborious and slow roped solo. and fixed lines on popular routes for mini-traxion are not considered acceptable during the busy climbing season.
a better use of a day would be to scope out the approaches to the base of the climbs on your list, and getting a measure of the place... maybe even talking to climbers you'd encounter on your path.
the level of efficiency afforded by knowing how to get around pays back dividends once you and your partner are executing your list of climbs...
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Aug 26, 2014 - 09:39am PT
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I like the bottle of wine suggestion. My choice would be a fine Pinot Noir from Napa (ok, shameless, they need the business right now).
Don't be in such a hurry to knock off climbs, drink in the beauty and tranquility of the valley. Go to El Cap Meadows and lie down in the tall grass, take a dip in the nearby Merced, freak on all the tourists and traffic, and try to daydream of what it was like when the indigenous people were out gathering nuts and seeds.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 26, 2014 - 09:46am PT
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If you were a music lover and you go to one of the biggest record stores on the planet, and you already had a chance to look at their catalog before going there, when you arrived would you start by grabbing the nearest set of headphones or sitting down with a book in a chair by the corner?
I think the first impulse of most climbers coming to Yosemite is to climb something. If you don't have a partner, probably better to pick something ahead of time that you KNOW you can do safely on your own first. That's what this person is doing- pretty sensible-seeming to me. Otherwise, you might get excited in the moment and commit yourself to a bigger adventure than you really intended. That's more or less what I did on my first trip alone to Yosemite, and spewing about that misadventure here are supertopo was how I got my first partners. But I could have just died.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 26, 2014 - 10:58am PT
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1. There aren't a whole lot of moderate, bolted anchor mulipitch climbs, and the few that are are popular. But you should be able to find some single pitch climbs.
Jam crack would be a good easy 5.9 with a bolted anchor but its very popular.
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Sunnyside-Bench-Jamcrack
Church bowl tree is a less popular, decent 5.10 with a bolted anchor.
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Church-Bowl-Church-Bowl-Tree
Or the first pitch of some more obscure el cap walls.
I'd check out the church bowl, swan slabs, and el cap base areas and look for climbs with bolted anchors and no crowds.
2. There's a supertopo for top ropes, but I haven't read it.
3. Lots of bouldering. Camp4 etc. Brings some beers and offer a beer and ask to use their pads
The le conte boulder is a short super steep practice bolted aid climb that's fun and a good solo project.
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Byran
climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 26, 2014 - 11:54am PT
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Go to Camp 4. That's probably where you'll be camping when your not on the wall so maybe start off by getting a site if any are available. Check the bulletin board (at the registration kiosk) for climbing partners for the day, or just do a lap around the place and ask some climbers if they need a partner. Camp 4 also has the most concentrated and popular bouldering circuit in the Valley, and anytime in Oct there should be lots of pads under the classics.
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dindolino32
climber
san francisco
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Aug 26, 2014 - 12:56pm PT
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Agreed. Start with something on the "five open books". Munginella and Commitment are both fun. If you need to bail off of munginella, you should stick to the Swan Slabs area. Get a feel for the rock and get a good view for your first day. Won't you be jet lagged anyway?
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ghisino
climber
Italy/France
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2014 - 01:06pm PT
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thanks for the replis so far.
of course finding a partner for the day would be option number 1, i just like to make plans b and c and d in case plan a isn't possible!
for topropes of course i don't need a bolted anchor, i don't intend to microtrax them the wole day making 45 minutes beta sessions, and if a lead team is coming for the same climb i can jumar up and pull the line : is this considered bad practice??? Or is it more of an ethical thing?
for rope-soloable mp i'm of course also comfortable with any multidirectional anchor that is fast to setup, can be considered bomber and won't eat too much gear.
The problem with 100% gear belays is that they will either need 4 pieces or resetting them from downward to upward pull before leading the next pitch, both options are relatively slow and have some clusterf*#k potential.
out of curiosity has anyone here climbed any cracks in europe, and especially in orco valley? Rumors are that it's the closest imitation we have but how close in terms of style and grading, that is the question!
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Da-Veed
Trad climber
Bend Oregon
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Aug 26, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
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Vous allez mourir!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 26, 2014 - 01:41pm PT
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Ghisino...gear belays don't need four pieces and they don't need to be reset for leading. I just got back from four days in the Black Canyon which is multi pitch trad with virtually no fixed anchors.
I used predominately two anchors and on occasion only one. When I had one anchor I made sure that it was bomber and I belayed thru my harness not thru the anchor. Belay anchors are a function of the quality of the anchors and the stance. If both are good than fewer anchors are needed and much time is saved. Time, on a long climb, is also a saftey factor that must be considered.
I have been climbing a long time and I have placed thousands of belay anchors without failure. It is my opinion that many climbers today take far too long setting and getting in and out of belays. Climbing during short weather windows in Patagonia has taught me the importance of time saving tatics. It could also save you from forced, miserable bivouacs in Yosemite or make the difference in getting done before an afternoon thunderstorm.
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Byran
climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 26, 2014 - 02:35pm PT
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^^ He's talking about rope soloing them
For mini trax, the best spot i think is Elephant Rock. You approach the top of the cliff from Hwy 41. It's a short walk from the car, then finding the top of your intended route can take a bit of scouting around (if you're driving in on Hwy 140 or Hwy 120, it's prob not a bad idea to pullover and take a look at the formation from across the river, to familiarize yourself with the layout). The most popular routes are on the Killer Pillar, which has a handful of steep sport climbs in the 5.11-5.12 range. In addition to those some other good ones I've TR soloed are Pink Elephant (5.9), Elephantitis (5.10), Elephant Talk (5.11b), and Hocus Pocus (5.11d). Some of the anchors require gear so bring a single set of cams, and some (like Elephantitis) will require that you place a couple directionals as you rap down.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/elephant-rock/105867133
It's all covered in the out of print "Yosemite Free Climbs" by Don Reid. And I believe the Killer Pillar routes are covered in the TR and Sport Climbs supertopo
http://www.supertopo.com/packs/yosemite-sport-climbs-top-ropes.html
Edit:
For short multipitch, maybe try something on the Cookie Sheet or Parkline Slab. There's lots of low angle slab climbs that tend to be pretty easy and well protected by Yosemite standards. Far fewer crowds as well (only because the routes are fairly new and aren't included in the most popular guidebook). The only issue is that many of the routes might not have great options for a ground anchor at the bottom, so you might need to bring a haul hag to fill with rocks or clove hitch the first couple bolts or something. But after the first pitch you should have good bolted anchors the rest of the way (not the case for every route, but many of them). Most of the routes require 2 ropes to get down.
Elephant Rock, Cookie Sheet and Parkline are all in the Lower Merced Canyon, so you would need a vehicle.
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dindolino32
climber
san francisco
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Aug 26, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
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I am doubting that he will have a car, or the time to search for these routes. I'm still pushing for something close to camp 4. Lena's layback is a good warm up for him, and it's easy to find.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 26, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
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What Ed said: spend the day doing the approaches. You woildn't believe how easy it is to get confused there.
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Psilocyborg
climber
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Aug 26, 2014 - 04:29pm PT
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walk up valley on the trail from lower yosemite falls until you pass by the stables, then hit talus. Head up the talus until you can head left on the bench. Go check out lower yosemite falls. From there, scramble up to the base of lost arrow spire. Enjoy.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 26, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
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Some of the best climbs for this are going to be some of the most popular climbs. But I bet an efficient solo climber could be faster than many of the newer teams that also get on these climbs, especially when you get an inexperienced team of 3 crawling up them.
You could talk to anyone around the base of a climb you are interested and work something out. They might agree to climb with you rather than wait for you to solo it. No hard and fast rules around soloing just talk to the people there, be courteous and try to work something out.
As I mentioned go to swan slabs, el cap base, or church bowl where there are multiple options and look for something with no one on it.
Bishops terrace at church bowl is a classic and a can be done as 1 pitch and rapped off with 2 ropes. But it's super popular. You never know though, I've been there with no one else around.
La costa 5.7 or 5.9 depending on who you talk to is also really good has bolt anchors, but is popular.
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan-La-Cosita-Left
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Aug 26, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
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Have fun, enjoy the beautiful scenery and figure it out as you go . . . Little Wing area is sweet for single pitches.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 26, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
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If nothing else works out....we are talking about one day, right. Set up a top rope on Generator Crack. Next to the road, easy to rig and there is no better way to introduce yourself to the thugish side of Yosemite.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 26, 2014 - 10:11pm PT
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All 5.9 and under:
Bishops Terrace(!)
Church Bowl Chimney 5.6+++++
La Cosita, left
Little John: first right, then left(left can stink from Salathe effluvia)
After 6,7 Nutcracker (take a number)
Right side of Reeds Pinnacle
those routes up by Cascade Creek.
* Probably the best advice is to go up to the Meadows *
Harry Daley (closed due to rock fall?)
Central Pillar of the Frenzy. get up way early and take a number.
Oh, and North Dome, Regular Route. It's only 5.7 ;-)
Sincerely, I'm not sure what I would climb there the first time, or even if/when I got back. Get in shape and do Snake Dike and Royal Arches?
Someone upstream said Little Wing area, but for an intro to the Valley, that might be tough. What about This and That? There was a pretty soft 5.9 that I led up there on the far right side.
(I reserve the right to pull this!)
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 26, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
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Don't listen to these people.
Come to the Valley and eat pizza, drink beer and watch television like normal people.
Climbing is stoopid
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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Avoid the Rangers.
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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CHECK OUT...LAZY BUM 5.10D
AVOID THE CAMP 4 BATHROOM AT ALL COST
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Stonequest's straight up and down, bolted anchors, close to road, and multipitch.
Enjoy valley runout moderate.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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1 day? Drive immediately to el cap meadow.. run to the base of el-cap..touch it..climb up a ways...come down and wander around for a while.
Go back to the meadow..
drink beer.. and dream.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Upon entering the Valley--watch your speed. The rangers are always lurking, waiting to give you a ticket!
As Jim Donini suggest, make sure you get in The Central Pillar of Frenzy, sometime during your visit. Also, for a longer day, I suggest the NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock. A great route, in a nice setting.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Just find yourself a decent partner in Camp 4. Then start out on climbs well below your self-perceived abilities and you won't be disappointed.
From what you've said, the 5 Open Books is a good area for you; start on Munginella, then Commitment . Manure Pile Buttress has lots of climbing in the range you mentioned, especially Nutcracker ( 3 different starts at different difficulty levels). My personal favorite, however, always was After Seven.
The slick granite seems to have impressed several of my European climbing friends, and it can be disconcerting for someone used to climbing on Dolomite, Verdon Limestone, or Alpine Granite ala Chamonix.
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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Psilocyborg
walk up valley on the trail from lower yosemite falls until you pass by the stables, then hit talus. Head up the talus until you can head left on the bench. Go check out lower yosemite falls. Enjoy.
Yosemite Falls webcam
Hopefully they turn the falls back on when you are there. . .
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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I'm guessing this guy can pull down just fine, slick Yosemite granite or not. He prolly already has kept his goals conservative and is good for grades well above.
Arne
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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What Darwin and The Warbler said. I was mentally making the same list as I read the thread.
As someone said earlier, even very good Euro climbers can have trouble with Yosemite off widths/chimneys. I recall two well known and very accomplished Brits who came back from The Folly quite thrashed and humbled.
Little John left and La Cosita left are good warmup off width/Chimneys. Not to mention Royal Arches Pitch 1 and Church Bowl chimneys.
I also second Snake Dike. A stupendous outing, just be very careful on the first pitch if you're soloing.
Royal Arches for a fun and moderate classic. You can easily run up most of it. Beware the first pitch chimney, you can't easily protect it.
Another vote for Regular route on Higher Cathedral Spire
All three of these climbs get you Way Up There with minimal hazard.
Oh
Get going early to beat the inevitable October crowds and the short days. There's no funicular to get you back to the Valley ;-)
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Fletcher
Gym climber
A very quiet place
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Echoing again what Ed said:
> a better use of a day would be to scope out the approaches to the base of the climbs on your list,
> and getting a measure of the place... maybe even talking to climbers you'd encounter on
> your path.
Always a good idea, and it's not a bad place to just wander around. Kinda beautiful in its own way. :-)
I have probably spent eons wander around looking for crags and climbs. Often hopelessly off target. I once missed an entire ridge of a huge mountain (west) and managed to convince myself and another experienced partner (not in that area, obviously!) that the ridge we were on (north) was actually the east. Tales of woe and intrigue ensued. At least it gets me out of the house! :-)
Eric
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You said you might not have a partner the first day. If that is the case there are three climbs easily top roped that can serve as a nice introduction.....Five and Dime, Chingando and Generator Crack. They are also all in the same vicinity.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Sep 30, 2014 - 07:14am PT
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bumping
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Sep 30, 2014 - 08:03am PT
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If you climb cracks in Orco then I suspect you will adapt to the valley's cracks pretty quickly......
Steve
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