Poor ethics or not?

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janeclimber

Ice climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
Is this Poor ethics or not?

It is a common practices in America and Europe that you do NOT bolt a crack route, if you can avoid doing so. We would expect that sponsored athletes would respect this custom. But in this series of photos posted by Ms. 杨小华 Yang Xiaohua, a Salomon sponsored athlete, you can see Ms. Yang was climbing a bolted crack in Sichuan China.
http://www.weibo.com/2137013935/ADdxTCz8H#_rnd1402792101353
[ The link is to a Chinese site, I have posted the screen shot of her post later for you to review. Thanks!]

Actually she climbed two crack routes with bolts. It is unclear who bolted these routes. If the routes were not developed by her, is it cool to climb a bolted crack like that? Is it good publicity? Do sponsored athletes have a social responsibility to withhold an above-average ethnic standards in outdoor pursuits?

Voice your opinions, climbers!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 14, 2014 - 05:49pm PT
in my opinion it is bad style to bolt crack climbs

the hardware exists to provide protection without altering the rock.

the best style is one with the absolute minimum alteration.

IMHO

YMMV

FYIYDA

and by the way, you may not want to click on the link ...


COT

climber
Door Number 3
Jun 14, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
Having climbed quite a bit in Sichuan, and having met lots of Chinese climbers who are psyched on trad climbing, this is sad to see :(

Not to mention her rope management skills

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 14, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
That link is incomprehensible to me.


And I don't care if some Chinese "athlete" climbed a bolted crack.


Maybe they thought it would be fun?


Maybe it was fun?


I hear they eat dogs there too maybe we need a thread on that?


donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 14, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
I have said it before and I will say it again, I am vehemently opposed to the death penalty EXCEPT....for white collar crime and bolting cracks.
janeclimber

Ice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2014 - 05:54pm PT

COT

climber
Door Number 3
Jun 14, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
Hey RyanD

Ms.Yang Xiaohua mentioned in her post that exasperater crack is next :)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 14, 2014 - 06:23pm PT


Ms.Yang Xiaohua mentioned in her post that exasperater crack is next :)


Lol!!


Perfect!


It's already all banged out from the OG's back in the 70s anyways :-)


But seriously though.

She should be sent to work in a rice field or factory for the rest of her days.

If she had bolted it herself and was just spraying about it I could see the need for everyone to throw their arms up, but she's just doing a lap for fun- anyone here ever climb Cookie Monster?


Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
Jun 14, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
Isn't this the same woman that just heloed up to camp 2 on Everest?

janeclimber

Ice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2014 - 06:34pm PT
RyanD,

Thanks for your valuable comments.

IMHO, China is part of the global village. Jim Donini opened several awesome crack routes in Sichuan recently. Quite a few North American climbers go climbing in China, among them, David Anderson and Szu-ting Yi are dear friends of mine. These climbers go to China, they opened the routes withholding the highest ethnic standards of our times. I respect their way.


The mountains are for everyone to enjoy and to appreciate. Many Chinese immigrants now live in US and Canada and some of these immigrants are climbers who frequent Yosemite and Squamish. I am one of them. I am also hoping to climb walls in China when time permits.

I am not sure if you or anyone here wear Salomon shoes, clothing, or use Petzl climbing gear. Ms. Yang is sponsored by Salomon and she claims that she is having some kind of sponsorship from Petzl as well.

I use Petzl ice gear and own a pair of Salomon shoes. Personally, I feel uncomfortable knowing that an athlete climbing on a bolted crack is sponsored by Salomon and Petzl. I am their customer. As a climber, I strive to withhold the highest ethical standards. So I publicly condemn this kind of poor practice. Moreover, I am sincerely hoping that the new-generation of Chinese climbers will catch up and stop bolting cracks. For that, I am very grateful that Jim Donini spoke up.

Thanks a ton, Papa Donini!

John M

climber
Jun 14, 2014 - 06:41pm PT
I clicked on the link before realizing it might not be a good idea. The first photo looks photoshopped.


John M

climber
Jun 14, 2014 - 06:44pm PT
Randisi, the crack is squared off at the top and just ends.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 14, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
Maybe that's why it's bolted??




If we started boycotting companies because their "athletes" climbed(not bolted) bolted cracks there would be nobody left to buy gear from.


I agree that minimal bolting when natural gear is available is for the best.

Just pointing out that we don't know the whole story here so just seems like pointless speculation.


And if donini has never clipped one next to a crack after all the climbing he's done then I'm justin bieber :-)
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 14, 2014 - 07:15pm PT
Regardless of the cost of cams, bolts next to cracks is an absolute no, no. We did okay in Yosemite in the pre cam days.

edit: Looks like a pretty easy crack, she probably didn't need bolts OR cams.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Jun 14, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
This is a country where environmental standards too often place a distant second to individual interests...bolted cracks are consistent with this locus, no?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 14, 2014 - 07:39pm PT
Do they eat hang dogs, there?
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jun 14, 2014 - 07:39pm PT
Ya know, I'm gettin' old and the kids don't seem to care.

I lead a difficult 5.3R at Suicide by sideways climbing to the nearby 5.7 flaring crack for occasional pro. But you know, if I could have just clipped some big honkin' stainless 3/8 every 8 feet, it might have been more fun.


Hell I could lead Flower of High Rank, 5.9 -sustained- if I didn't have to stand on my twisted ankles with toes in the jam crack, left hand jammed and fumbling for the right size cam, (or Tri-Cam, amen). If I could just clip every six feet on draws or just clip perma-draws, why it would be totally knocked down to my level and I'd be doing more climbing.


So hell with it! Bolt all the cracks. (as long as I don't have to pay for it)


Aren't cams easier?


What about ski lifts?


Poor old California trad climbing ethics, but who cares? We're just a bunch of old has-beens. No one cares if our generation could lead Separate Reality with hex nuts.


Young kids just gonna sport climb their way up to Honnold level then just free solo everything anyhow.

anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Jun 14, 2014 - 07:41pm PT

I use Petzl ice gear and own a pair of Salomon shoes. Personally, I feel uncomfortable knowing that an athlete climbing on a bolted crack is sponsored by Salomon and Petzl. I am their customer. As a climber, I strive to withhold the highest ethical standards. So I publicly condemn this kind of poor practice


good for you
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 14, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
It could be the apogee of her career.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 14, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
That would be a low trajectory....
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