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bbbeans
Trad climber
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so my buddy and I are walking along the base of the captain this fall, and about 50' up a guy was leading out on a string of taped on hooks. It was kind of a wierd setup cuz his belay was about 30' up the native son crack.
I was just commenting on the oddness when he slowly looks at me and says
"PSYCHO"
I think that he was telling us that he was psycho.
I knew that he was Jim Beyer....whoa!
Love that. Long Live Jim Beyer!
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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so my buddy and I are walking along
when was this? I recall something similar in 2004 or so?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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I don't understand the taped hooks...
Tape is just fine w/o the hook...
Duct Tape FTW..TTS..WTF
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oh the pity and for pity's sake think of the children and one big mistake. . .
His tactics and his taciturn wit that takes his antics to a level that if embraced by others with less skill, will kill some one
In fact he has said he hopes that his fame will grow when people die trying his routes. .
It would be fun to set nanook off on some of big schlicks routes!
Calling - 'safe for 'Bambi' (sic) Sloan,.....!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I am trying to understand your post
Nov 4, 2015 - 12:48am PT
I don't understand the taped hooks...Tape is just fine w/o the hook...Duct Tape FTW..TTS..WTF
FTW? TTS? The last one I think I get. . . .
Duct tape will save the world = DTWSTW or DTWSW,
I've climbed using tapped hooks for pro. . Ymmv
When aiding hard . . . In windy conditions . . . Or on a bogus line of self vandalized holes
A Beyer route tape is just one of the regular tricks also a three foot stick and the Bosch n' boltsz
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DesertFox
climber
Vegas
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Jan 25, 2016 - 10:12am PT
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He sounds like a really pleasant fellow...
"After summiting Cult of Suicidal,I noticed a park ranger on the road .Upon descent the ranger notified me that bikers on the white rim had snitched on me (hammering is against the stupid rules) in Canyonlands NP.He wrote me a ticket for 50$ and left. Later, driving out,fast and reckless,I approached a group of bikers.I passed some riders then four wheel drifted round a corner spotting an exhausted woman pushing her bike in the sandy doubletrack ahead. She stepped up out of the doubletrack "ditch" and I didn't slow down.I expected her to pull her bike up out of the ditch in the nick of time. She didn't and I drove right over her bike.She started screaming immediately but I didn't stop because I was laughing too hard."
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Dickly
Social climber
KY
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Jan 25, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
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Its easy to see why he spends most of his time on Earth alone. Still, he's not too bad of a guy to hang out with around a campfire and way better around the fire than some know-it-all, beta spraying, name dropping turd chomper.
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overwatch
climber
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Jan 25, 2016 - 03:17pm PT
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The most surprising thing is that these are completely unkmnown techniques in the States. As I say, Royal Robbins used wedeges to protect off-widhts in 1966 in Pedraforca.
Which is it, unknown in this country or RR used it?
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Nov 11, 2016 - 06:31am PT
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Both. Royal Robbins learned it in Catalonia when he went there invited by his friend Josep Manuel Anglada. Indeed, the original wood wedges to protect the off-width places in 1966 are still in place...
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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This has been a great thread to read. Just saying
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jan 10, 2019 - 05:12pm PT
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Ready to Go, beyer's new el cap solo from may 2018 is not A6 as advertised on mountain project. While fixed on el cap this last fall, i was able to rap over and inspect the first 2 pitches. the first two pitches, which both are rated A6, have about 12 holes on each of them, either with a zmac rivet(also known as a nail drive) in it or left as a bathook hole. there are a few hard placements per pitch, and i would estimate the both of them to hail in a lot closer to A2+ or A3. Seriously. i mean, if gerberding heard that a pitch with 12 holes was rated A6, he would just shake his head, no way. the def of A5 has come to mean a 200' pitch with only body weight pro and NO drilled holes.
i'm not including the 18 foot cheater stick hook move to start the climb. like the ice axe move on marty's brigade, it is too obscure to rate.
i saw none of the so called booby traps that gumby climber claims he puts in
not making judgements, just reporting facts
steve schneider
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 10, 2019 - 06:45pm PT
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^^^ Thanks, Steve.
IMO, A6 does not exist. Certainly Beyer has never done one, as has been repeatedly discovered, despite his relentless efforts to "establish" the grade. And, not satisfied with that ridiculous rating, he continues to put up (solo, of course) supposed "A6+".
What would A6 even BE? Even in theory?
* You rip the entire pitch, take out the anchor, and you and your belayer plummet to terra most firma. -- Uh, no, actually that's already consistent with A5, and WHY use death anchors in the first place? The minute you're drilling ANYTHING in the pitch, not having a decent bolt anchor makes NO sense! But, okay, call it A5+.
A6 = Everything from the above point, but the junk show hits the ground with enough impact force to spray ejecta into a 20-foot radius, killing bystanders within a 10-foot radius.
A6+ = Everything from the above point, but the impact ejecta kills bystanders within a 50-foot radius.
A6+X = Everything from the above point, but the impact has EMP effects for a one-mile radius and destabilizes a previously unknown fault line, causing a massive earthquake.
A7 = Everything from the above point, but the earthquake produces a tsunami that sweeps away a small, island nation.
I mean, come on. Just do any real "A5" pitch unroped and with no back-clipping. If the placement you're on fails, you die. There's nothing more "heroic" than that, and even that doesn't rise to the "A6" standard.
Perhaps you need to strap on rocket packs pointing downward, and these are auto-ignited by a switch triggered by the sudden force of acceleration by gravity. As soon as they kick in, they DRIVE you downward INTO the ground, and then the way-awesome aid-rating can contemplate how deep of a crater you create.
A6 does not exist. IMO.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jan 10, 2019 - 08:28pm PT
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Has anyone seen Beyer in the last decade. Maybe he is so rotund that a 1 or 1.5 is added to the normal accepted and applicable rating.
Leading a pitch before lunch a 1 gets added, after lunch a 1.5.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jan 12, 2019 - 01:31pm PT
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beyer WAS seen at the base of ready to go...although when he was asked what his name was, he responded with "Im the solo guy".
He also chopped a bolt of mine on a route i had started nearby...of course i am not too happy about that.
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hhhhhhhhh
climber
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Jan 14, 2019 - 12:17pm PT
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I find it interesting that a person that is know for supposedly putting up A6 death routes, his FA's on Glacier Point Apron are reasonably protected.
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