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WBraun
climber
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Apr 27, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
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They are approximately 2 pitches from the top of Native Son as of now.
Their portaledge is anchored at the top of the "Machine Headwall and the leader is a few feet from the end of the 13th pitch.
From there it's two pitches and a short scramble to the summit ......
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 27, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
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Thanks Werner,
There are a couple of youths in Washington that will be stoked on the update.
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OR
Trad climber
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Apr 27, 2014 - 11:18pm PT
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he is very low key, does not spray and maybe you should ask him instead of everyone else as respect for his privacy would go a long way.
I held back for a while
in no way am i trying to shame you as much as awaken your thoughts.
Really? Come back to reality fruit loop.
This thread is crazier than a shithouse rat. Avery asking about Brads El Cap routes is totally acceptable here on the Taco. Pay no mind to anyone that thinks otherwise Avery.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 27, 2014 - 11:24pm PT
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Avery, the article by Greg Moloshco is called "Waiting for the Sun".
I no longer have my issue of Climbing #161 so I cannot scan it for you.
Unaweep yesterday for you.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 12:41am PT
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Heartfelt thanks to "Kalimon" and "OR" for their support and generosity.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 28, 2014 - 01:37am PT
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ah, that's where the impetus for the Bushido post came from.
kudos to Avery for poking and prodding to get us to dig out some good stuff, and Ed for putting it up.
Avery, just might post the reason the question came up... for example something like this...
"Hi all you turdlockers. I was just reading the AAJ issued #666. The article said Mucci is also known to drink Tecate's with an umbrella in the can. Is this true? I mean, I've seen the stories and all, but an umbrella in the can? NOOOOO! Does anybody know what El Cap climbs Mucci has completed"
Then you might get stories and pics more easily.
;)
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 02:18am PT
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Thanks Ed, simply fantastic.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 02:44am PT
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Thanks Mungeclimber, a very interesting post.
Its amazing how Ed's post ended up on the screen. My initial inspiration came from Dana Eubanks wonderful pics of Tempest. From there I learned that Brad Jarrett (among others) made the 1st ascent. It was a name I was not familiar with, hence the ST questions (it was around this time I was labeled a stalker). This in turn led me to Bushido, a route that has always fascinated me. Then the article in Climbing magazine 161 was brought to my attention. I immediately posted a plea for the article to be posted and within a couple of hours Ed obliged me.
The whole point of that story is the relevance of Supertopo. None of the above would have come about without ST.
My personnel feeling is, lets keep it relevant to climbing and dismiss all the peripheral, self serving, pseudo hip nonsense for what is: meaningless rubbish.
I apologize for the overheated words but not for the sentiment.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Apr 28, 2014 - 11:44am PT
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he's got these rad telephoto zoom eyes...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Does anyone know if Brad's father is a Fresno attorney named Rod Jarrett? I thought Rod had at least one son who climbed, but I never found out details. (This is particularly embarrassing because I was sharing a beer with Rod yesterday).
Thanks.
John
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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That would be him....ask him about discussions with Chongo. Homan......
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I love finding out about connections like these. When I decided to come back to Fresno to be closer to the Sierra, I interviewed with the firm I eventually worked for. I knew they had an attorney named Jon Wallace Upton. When they introduced him as "Wally," however, something clicked in my mind, because I remembered Galen Rowell telling about a guy in Fresno he climbed with in the early 60's named Wally Upton.
He looked like a former climber, and I figured I had nothing to lose, so I asked if he was the Wally Upton, the Yosemite climber. The rest of the "interview" was him telling about climbing in the early 60's, particularly with Sacherer. Wally is still around, sometimes posts on ST, and is now the sole survivor of the FA team of the left sides of Little John and La Cosita -- and one of the greatest human beings I know. Too bad he doesn't climb any more.
John
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 11, 2014 - 11:28pm PT
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So Little John is named for Jon Wallace?
There's something not everyone knows. Cool, thx.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 12:17am PT
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I don't think so, munge, since most had no idea that Jon is his first name, and Wally isn't little (at least compared with, say, Rowell, Pratt, Harding or Chouinard). I like the idea, though.
John
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