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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 24, 2014 - 02:57am PT
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Out of curiosity, does anybody know what El Cap climbs Brad Jarrett completed?
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
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Yes, your right Klaus, he made the first ascent of Tempest.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Apr 24, 2014 - 08:39pm PT
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WEML
Aurora
Iron Hawk to Native Son finish.
To name just some..
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
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Thanks Rollover.
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OR
Trad climber
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Apr 24, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
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Tempest, Jolly Roger, Sunkist…..
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Apr 24, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
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South Seas
Sea Of Dreams
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Apr 24, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
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It's easy enough to just ask him. I'll probably call him tomorrow or so.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2014 - 12:27am PT
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Thanks Captain,
Ever since I heard that he was part of the team that made the 1st ascent of Tempest I've been curious about what other El Cap routes he'd done.
It was Dana Eubanks excellent Tempest pics that initially fired me up.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2014 - 10:34pm PT
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Does anyone know the names of all three climbers who made the 1st ascent of Tempest?
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 25, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
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Brad wrote a wonderful piece about an ascent of Bushido . . . he is also a Tool fan . . . awesome dude by all accounts.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Apr 25, 2014 - 11:07pm PT
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Jeff Hornibrook and Cade Lloyd were on the FA with Brad.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Apr 26, 2014 - 12:01am PT
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Greg Moloshco wrote the article about Bushido for Climbing#161
June/August 1996.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 26, 2014 - 01:10am PT
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Rollover . . . my bad. Thanks for the correction . . . an excellent piece of climbing literature.
Kudos Greg M.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2014 - 02:08am PT
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Thanks a lot folks,
Can anybody out there post the "Climbing 161" article on Bushido, I'd be much obliged.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2014 - 03:36am PT
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Thanks Valerio, for an interesting thread. Some great pics.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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Did Brad Jarrett ever solo Jolly Roger?
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Apr 26, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
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Stalker?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 26, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
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Hey Brad Jarrett stalker, why didn't u ask about the alpine wall routes.
The Dream
Valkrie
Midgard Serpent
Wall Fiction
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ECF
Big Wall climber
So Far East I might as well be dead
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Apr 26, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
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MEGA faux pas to post a thread with just somebodies name as the title.
Just don't do it, unless it's time to do it.
My f*#king heart stopped when I saw that.
NOOOO!
Not Rad Brad....
But no, he's not dead.
Well, alright then.
But still, uncool move there hoss.
Go about your idol worship.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2014 - 03:06am PT
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Sorry everybody.
There was certainly no malicious intent on my part.
Thanks ECF.
Incidentally, whats the connection between posting a thread based on someones name and their possible demise. As I am relatively new to supertopo I suppose I've breached some sort of protocol.
Wanting to know a particular climber's El Cap ascents hardly qualifies as "idol worship" (But then again I'm not American)
That's all from me on this thread.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Apr 27, 2014 - 08:22am PT
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If you have questions about someone, it's best to preface your title like...how about Brad J, or some such.
We're a bit touchy about titles with just a name as we've lost several dear friends recently.
No harm no foul on your part.
Btw, I left Brad a msg....he was working. More later.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2014 - 09:04am PT
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Thanks for your understanding "Captain" but I honestly had no idea that the difference between posting Brad Jarrett instead of Brad J meant that he was dead.
My apologies.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 27, 2014 - 10:27am PT
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He's on Native Son right now.
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overwatch
climber
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Apr 27, 2014 - 10:47am PT
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The title didn't make me think he was dead. Those threads usually have a RIP, yeah?
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 27, 2014 - 11:46am PT
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Ask him about his first time climbing leaning tower? He an his partner had garbage bags for bivy gear when a huge storm came in. I had a nice spot on the ledge (guano?) with a tarp but very small, where we tried to sleep stacked like cord wood until we rappeled off in the AM in a major blizzard.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 27, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
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Brad was Huck Finn and the smile that came with it.
The guy was very poor back then and made good with what little he owned which was always very little.
He comes from a rural background.
He's definitely the guy you want as your neighbor ......
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Apr 27, 2014 - 12:34pm PT
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i guess the weird thing about this thread is that many of us have climbed with rad brad and it seems odd to randomly solicit info in a round about way. this guy is so solid and unassuming, great guy to hang with and has more routes under his belt than many would dare to dream.. he is very low key, does not spray and maybe you should ask him instead of everyone else as respect for his privacy would go a long way.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Apr 27, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
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Brad was not a fan of publicizing his climbs. I believe he's on the capt. now.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 27, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
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Hey Werner,
A certain Raven haired beauty has asked for updates on the Native Son outing. Any news?
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2014 - 01:09pm PT
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I take your point snakefoot.
If I knew asking a few (seemingly) innocuous questions about a guys El Cap history was going to cause such consternation, I wouldn't have bothered. I feel like I've committed a crime against humanity.
One thing's for certain, I've learned a lot about supertopo from this.
Anyway, I'm in the process of trying to have this thread removed.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Apr 27, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
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Avery, i held back for a while. I understand your interest as this guy is all that and more. It's just that these message boards are far from private now and these inquires would be best dealt with by talking directly to the one in question, however that is achieved. in no way am i trying to shame you as much as awaken your thoughts.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2014 - 01:28pm PT
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Thanks snakefoot,
I understand your point about supertopo being very public, but were my questions really that personal? (I've read a helluva a lot worse on this sight)
I've made way too many errors of judgement since I've been on supertopo, so I think I'll call it a day.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Apr 27, 2014 - 01:33pm PT
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for the record, i have brads' old green yose guide book with more beta than one could imagine. when i unpack a few things, i will send it to him as it got mixed up in things when we were hanging with a few sisters back in the day.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 27, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
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A climbing question about a hardman.
Is this the wrong place to inquire?
Pretty benign query.
There is no other place to ask such questions.
Avery has been nothing short of up front with every thread he has started. A few of them have been gold and provided others with a glimpse at some of the EC routes not often seen on the big screen.
Since when does asking about the denizens become stalking?
It's just climbing, not asking about sexual preference or arrest history.
Avery, the AAJ has much on Brad Jarret, check it out.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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Thanks mucci, I appreciate it.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 27, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
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Avery,
Ignore the trolls, they don't have anything better to do than pass silly judgements. In my opinion, to enjoy supertopo, you must ignore about 10-20% of posts as worthless troll-spew.
There isn't anything wrong with an appreciation thread of a published climber and route activist.
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 27, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
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What mucci said. I can understand the feedback, for future reference. Go on about your business dude.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Apr 27, 2014 - 07:08pm PT
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Well, no wonder he didn't answer...hehe. He was wanting to get on that one.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2014 - 07:28pm PT
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Many thanks Flip Flop (love that name) and Michelle for your support.
I think your quite correct, Flip Flop and I'm beginning to see a pattern forming on my threads. There is never a negative word to start with, no, they wait till the thread is well established, its only then that these Trolls (to borrow your term) strike.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 27, 2014 - 08:00pm PT
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They are approximately 2 pitches from the top of Native Son as of now.
Their portaledge is anchored at the top of the "Machine Headwall and the leader is a few feet from the end of the 13th pitch.
From there it's two pitches and a short scramble to the summit ......
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 27, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
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Thanks Werner,
There are a couple of youths in Washington that will be stoked on the update.
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OR
Trad climber
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Apr 27, 2014 - 11:18pm PT
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he is very low key, does not spray and maybe you should ask him instead of everyone else as respect for his privacy would go a long way.
I held back for a while
in no way am i trying to shame you as much as awaken your thoughts.
Really? Come back to reality fruit loop.
This thread is crazier than a shithouse rat. Avery asking about Brads El Cap routes is totally acceptable here on the Taco. Pay no mind to anyone that thinks otherwise Avery.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 27, 2014 - 11:24pm PT
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Avery, the article by Greg Moloshco is called "Waiting for the Sun".
I no longer have my issue of Climbing #161 so I cannot scan it for you.
Unaweep yesterday for you.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 12:41am PT
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Heartfelt thanks to "Kalimon" and "OR" for their support and generosity.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 28, 2014 - 01:37am PT
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ah, that's where the impetus for the Bushido post came from.
kudos to Avery for poking and prodding to get us to dig out some good stuff, and Ed for putting it up.
Avery, just might post the reason the question came up... for example something like this...
"Hi all you turdlockers. I was just reading the AAJ issued #666. The article said Mucci is also known to drink Tecate's with an umbrella in the can. Is this true? I mean, I've seen the stories and all, but an umbrella in the can? NOOOOO! Does anybody know what El Cap climbs Mucci has completed"
Then you might get stories and pics more easily.
;)
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 02:18am PT
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Thanks Ed, simply fantastic.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 02:44am PT
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Thanks Mungeclimber, a very interesting post.
Its amazing how Ed's post ended up on the screen. My initial inspiration came from Dana Eubanks wonderful pics of Tempest. From there I learned that Brad Jarrett (among others) made the 1st ascent. It was a name I was not familiar with, hence the ST questions (it was around this time I was labeled a stalker). This in turn led me to Bushido, a route that has always fascinated me. Then the article in Climbing magazine 161 was brought to my attention. I immediately posted a plea for the article to be posted and within a couple of hours Ed obliged me.
The whole point of that story is the relevance of Supertopo. None of the above would have come about without ST.
My personnel feeling is, lets keep it relevant to climbing and dismiss all the peripheral, self serving, pseudo hip nonsense for what is: meaningless rubbish.
I apologize for the overheated words but not for the sentiment.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Apr 28, 2014 - 11:44am PT
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he's got these rad telephoto zoom eyes...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Does anyone know if Brad's father is a Fresno attorney named Rod Jarrett? I thought Rod had at least one son who climbed, but I never found out details. (This is particularly embarrassing because I was sharing a beer with Rod yesterday).
Thanks.
John
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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That would be him....ask him about discussions with Chongo. Homan......
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I love finding out about connections like these. When I decided to come back to Fresno to be closer to the Sierra, I interviewed with the firm I eventually worked for. I knew they had an attorney named Jon Wallace Upton. When they introduced him as "Wally," however, something clicked in my mind, because I remembered Galen Rowell telling about a guy in Fresno he climbed with in the early 60's named Wally Upton.
He looked like a former climber, and I figured I had nothing to lose, so I asked if he was the Wally Upton, the Yosemite climber. The rest of the "interview" was him telling about climbing in the early 60's, particularly with Sacherer. Wally is still around, sometimes posts on ST, and is now the sole survivor of the FA team of the left sides of Little John and La Cosita -- and one of the greatest human beings I know. Too bad he doesn't climb any more.
John
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 11, 2014 - 11:28pm PT
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So Little John is named for Jon Wallace?
There's something not everyone knows. Cool, thx.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 12:17am PT
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I don't think so, munge, since most had no idea that Jon is his first name, and Wally isn't little (at least compared with, say, Rowell, Pratt, Harding or Chouinard). I like the idea, though.
John
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