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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 24, 2014 - 06:40pm PT
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I haven't read all this yet to know if anybody has noted, but we use pitons (aka Tuning Forks) to remove bolts.
Does that help?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Apr 24, 2014 - 08:47pm PT
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Titanium lost arrows for longevity. Drill them and use as hangers, everyone is happy.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Cascade Mountains and Monterey Bay
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This issue of pin scars and bolts and minimizing protection has been vastly overblown. While respecting the ghosts of climbers past, there is not much natural about modern rock climbing. It is a contrived sport. Even wandering free solo in remote locations with no one else knowing is still depending on vast amounts of collective experience and engineering in climbing shoes. Accept that fact and engineer routes as safe and fun as possible for others to appreciate. Intentionally escalating risk is a fools game. Climbing is adequately dangerous without contriving to make it more so. As Layton Kor liked to say, the best climbers are the ones having the most fun.
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Rankin
Social climber
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
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Changing a pin to a bolt changes the character of a route, and is generally to be avoided. On important routes we replace with a titanium pin, which are hard to find of course. They are a permanent solution though. Otherwise, a thoroughly painted pin will last for decades in good rock. Only if the pin cannot be reasonably replaced would I go for a bolt.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I certainly agree with much of what you say Tom. Climbing is contrived and the endless debates about whether a pin or bolt should be placed are paradigm examples of "First World problems."
Having said that, I will say that pin scars are a lasting legacy of the means that climbers had to safeguard themselves decades ago. Modern gear may not be more natural but it does better preserve the natural quality of the rock. Early pioneers, yourself included, would gladly have eschewed pins for other means had they been available.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Cascade Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Yes, Jim, and you do seem to be having a lot of fun! I was kinda embarrassed upon first seeing camming protection devices, as I had made extensive attempts to invent something like that...
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