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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 22, 2014 - 10:42am PT
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Yo Doggy doo,
These guy are just trying to compile some info.
Thanks though big shot.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
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ok, how about the left route?
anyone make a claim on that?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 23, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
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J has 3 routes in the area (two with Bernie (Dirt Technicians I and II) and one with Ben Z (Mother's Milk)), but I haven't done any of them, and I'm pretty sure none involved adding any bolts. I don't even know where they go, so I'd have to ask J, but it sounds like it might be one of them, and the corners above what they dubbed "the Donini Corners".
Did Mikey Shaeffer do a few new routes over there? I have vague memories of his ropes getting trashed in a rockfall, but I could be making it up.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 23, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
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Mikey's ropes got trashed in rockfall over on Middle Cathedral a couple of years ago. Of course it might not have been the only time.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 24, 2014 - 10:24am PT
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That's the time I meant, Clint. I was writing about Middle not Reeds.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 24, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
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Thanks, Melissa - now I understand. I edited my earlier post now.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Apr 24, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
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This is the Fosburg .12b arete:
Looked stout! It was chalked up when we rapped over it in Jan 2012.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 24, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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Eric,
I don't have the latest list with me at the moment, but the 2011 version does not have "Slap that Bitch".
It does have "Season of the Bitch", FA by Cade Lloyd, on the far right side of the Chapel Wall (right of The Symphony).
FA late 1980s, so it's in the 1994 guidebook.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
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Cade Lloyd FAs
Tennessee Strings 5.12a * Rob Robinson Cade Lloyd Dec-86
Lingering Lines 5.10- R Tucker Tech Cade Lloyd Nov-87
Kling Cobra 5.10d Cade Lloyd Pete Takeda Tucker Tech Feb-88
Astro Turf 5.11 . Tucker Tech Cade Lloyd Pete Takeda Mar-88
Hung Like a Hamster 5.11c * Pete Takeda Cade Lloyd Tucker Tech Mar-88
Berlin Wall 5.12b * Pete Takeda Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Oct-88
Drive by Shooting 5.12a *** Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Tucker Tech Chris Holmes Oct-88
Cling Free 5.11c * Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Rob Renolds Oct-88
Scavenger 5.10d or 5.11 Ken Ariza Pete Takeda Cade Lloyd Nov-88
House of Pain 5.12a ** Cade Lloyd Nov-88
Cross-Train Crack 5.10b Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Nov-88
Rolo-Solo Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Nov-88
Teacher's Pet Dave Yerian Cade Lloyd Ken Ariza Merry (McGrath) Braun Nov-88
Mongoloid 5.11c ** Cade Lloyd Chris Snyder Ken Ariza 1988
Bad Company 5.11a or 5.11d Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Frank Lucido 1988
No Love-Chump Sucker 5.11c Cade Lloyd Jordy Morgan Ray Munoz Jan-89
Sample the Dog 5.12a Cade Lloyd Ray Munoz Pete Takeda Jan-89
Mean Streak 5.12b ** Kevin Fosburg Cade Lloyd Nov-89
Wide Thing 5.10d * Cade Lloyd Jeff Folett 1989
Exploited 5.11b Pete Takeda Cade Lloyd 1989
Freaky Styley 5.11d * Cade Lloyd 1989
The Hidden 5.12a * Cade Lloyd 1989
Season of the Bitch 5.11d Cade Lloyd et al late 1980s
Final Cut 5.12b *** Cade Lloyd 1990
Best Bet Arete 5.12b * Cade Lloyd 1990
Wish You Were Here 5.12a * Cade Lloyd 1990
Elvis in Chains 5.11a * Cade Lloyd et al 1990 1990
Buffy the Puppy Slayer 5.10b * Cade Lloyd et al 1990 1990
Police and Thieves 5.12b ** Kevin Fosburg Cade Lloyd 1991
Temple of Doom 5.12b ** Kevin Fosburg Cade Lloyd 1991
The Bluffer 5.11b * Eric Kohl Cade Lloyd 1992
Montgomery Cliff 5.11d * Eric Kohl Cade Lloyd 1992
Poached Elephant 5.10 A3 Ken Yager Cade Lloyd 1992
Tempest A4 Jeff Hornibrook Brad Jarret Cade Lloyd Jun-93
Peasant 5.10d ** Bryan Warshaw Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay [or Jimmy Haden 7/96] 1995
Too Slick for Thick 5.11b * Cade Lloyd Sep-96
Rummy Apes 5.10d Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay May-97
Last of the Luddites 5.10b Cade Lloyd 1996
Rock Monkey Rebellion 5.11a * Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay 1996
Eye of the Hurricane 5.11a ** Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay 1996
Giblet 5.10c ** Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay 1996
The Only Way 5.10d Bryan Kay Cade Lloyd [or Brian Knight, et al] Nov-97
Filthy Savage 5.10b * Cade Lloyd Chad Kellog Bryan Kay 1997
Yeagoo Nation 5.11 . Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay Ken Yager after 1998? 1998
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 25, 2014 - 05:53am PT
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Eric,
I have my current list now, and it has Slap that Bitch (FA by Cade Lloyd and Kevin Fosburg, 1989), which is at This and That.
Actually it's in the 1994 guidebook, on p.63.
But the FA info in the 1994 guidebook on this route was incorrect.
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