Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 30 of total 30 in this topic |
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2014 - 02:28pm PT
|
More loose ends... so far we haven't turned up any information on these two (or three) routes.
The one on the left goes up between Flatus and Independence Pinnacle. This might be two routes, and it might be an aid line, but it could be 5.12 or so free. There are 4 bolts protecting the traverse low down to a two-bolt anchor on the slabs. Then a thin crack to a two-bolt anchor just down and right of the end of the line indicated in the figure.
The second line seems to follow the arete between the Center route and Steppin Out. It is a bolted line and might also be around 5.12
No FA information exists for either of these lines, nor any details (like rating, we didn't try)...
Anyone know anything about these?
click on this image to get a larger version
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2014 - 06:25pm PT
|
I think we're all a little curious. Reeds rocks.
|
|
Trad is Rad
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo California
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
|
Deer Route
|
|
The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
|
Bumpies
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
|
morning numb
|
|
ablegabel
Trad climber
Dublin,Ca.
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2014 - 01:05pm PT
|
Bump for info.
Some more info. The route on the left has old, SMC hangers (probably 80's?)The second pitch that goes up through the head wall is definitely aid. The first pitch looks to be free.
The route on the right has Metolius(?) hangers on it (probably 90's) and goes out the roof to the left of "Steppin' Out". It ends at the rappel anchors of Independents Pinnacle.
 Eric Gabel
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
|
Sorry, not an appropriate thread to ask, but I noticed a line with new looking bolts between North Buttress and DNB. Going towards a right facing orange dihedral higher up. Line seems closely bolted and goes up terrain that is a waterfall during snow melt. Anyone know much about this line or orange dihedral above it?
How about chimney system/steep lieback (?) corner system just left of North Buttress route (not DNB)? Anyone done it, or know what is it called/rated at least?
Since you guys are keeping records, might as well ask...
|
|
velvet!
Trad climber
La Cochitaville
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2014 - 02:12pm PT
|
I got a SAR buddy that might have some info. I'll ask him when he gets out of his desert wanderings!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
|
Vitaliy,
There is an orange corner *right* of the North Buttress which is a newish route. It is right of the Right Rabbit Ear, on the left margin of the North Face Apron. There are 2 bolts getting to it, then it's gear. So it's not closely bolted.
Between the DNB and the North Buttress is The Turret (freed by Donini and Bragg), and 3 routes by J and partners (which probably also has some orange corners, but I doubt they are closely bolted :-) ).
[Edited: see Melissa's post on the next page]
Down low, the big wide orange corner just left of p3 of the North Buttress is not a recorded route. It's marked on the topo for The Turret and Left Rabbit Ear. If it looks like fun, go do it and report back!
Further left is a chimney system which is the original left side start to the North Buttress.
I also hope this doesn't derail the Reed's investigation!
|
|
Matt's
climber
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
|
If Clint, ed and gabel don't know the route, does it exist?
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
|
Thank you Clint!
If Clint, ed and gabel don't know the route, does it exist?
Yeah, right?! I bet Ed is imagining things! :)
|
|
Jake M.
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
|
The right line of bolts on Independence Pinnacle do exist!
I saw those when Stephen McCabe and I were doing the I.P. Center route in Nov 2013. It looked like thin face climbing through some steep bulges, and the bolts were "newer" looking, 90's Metolius sounds right.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
|
Yep, I've seen those bolts on the right route, too. (Also the left one when I did the Grey Bullet).
It's just a matter of asking around and hopefully somebody knows.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
|
Top secret routes.
So secret that even "know everything" NSA has no clue .......
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2014 - 04:00am PT
|
ok, I'll wait for any info...
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2014 - 08:05am PT
|
People in NZ are born without a sense of curiosity?
|
|
fosburg
climber
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2014 - 09:03am PT
|
The arete left of Steppin' Out is Scrapyard Thing which I climbed sometime in the early 90's. It's about 12b.
|
|
RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2014 - 10:07am PT
|
WOW DannyDo! That is one of the most stupid, ignorant posts I have seen on supertopo (...quite an achievement, on your part!)
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2014 - 10:25am PT
|
thanks for the reminder regarding adventure, DannyDo.
The point of my question is to get the FA acknowledgement right in future guidebooks.
There are more than 1000 routes in the Valley after the 1998 comprehensive guide, and there is plenty of opportunity to put other routes up. I've participated in quite a bit of new route development, and have partners that have "paid the price" in terms of broken bones in the process.
I'm sure you have a lot of stories to tell of similar adventures from the tone of your post. Not toting a guidebook to the crags is a great way to have those adventures. Tell us what you've done.
thanks Fos!
|
|
ablegabel
Trad climber
Dublin,Ca.
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2014 - 10:41am PT
|
Thanks Kevin,
One more mystery solved. Much appreciated!
-Eric Gabel
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2014 - 10:42am PT
|
Yo Doggy doo,
These guy are just trying to compile some info.
Thanks though big shot.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
|
ok, how about the left route?
anyone make a claim on that?
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
|
J has 3 routes in the area (two with Bernie (Dirt Technicians I and II) and one with Ben Z (Mother's Milk)), but I haven't done any of them, and I'm pretty sure none involved adding any bolts. I don't even know where they go, so I'd have to ask J, but it sounds like it might be one of them, and the corners above what they dubbed "the Donini Corners".
Did Mikey Shaeffer do a few new routes over there? I have vague memories of his ropes getting trashed in a rockfall, but I could be making it up.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
|
Mikey's ropes got trashed in rockfall over on Middle Cathedral a couple of years ago. Of course it might not have been the only time.
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2014 - 10:24am PT
|
That's the time I meant, Clint. I was writing about Middle not Reeds.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
|
Thanks, Melissa - now I understand. I edited my earlier post now.
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
|
This is the Fosburg .12b arete:
Looked stout! It was chalked up when we rapped over it in Jan 2012.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
|
Eric,
I don't have the latest list with me at the moment, but the 2011 version does not have "Slap that Bitch".
It does have "Season of the Bitch", FA by Cade Lloyd, on the far right side of the Chapel Wall (right of The Symphony).
FA late 1980s, so it's in the 1994 guidebook.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
|
Cade Lloyd FAs
Tennessee Strings 5.12a * Rob Robinson Cade Lloyd Dec-86
Lingering Lines 5.10- R Tucker Tech Cade Lloyd Nov-87
Kling Cobra 5.10d Cade Lloyd Pete Takeda Tucker Tech Feb-88
Astro Turf 5.11 . Tucker Tech Cade Lloyd Pete Takeda Mar-88
Hung Like a Hamster 5.11c * Pete Takeda Cade Lloyd Tucker Tech Mar-88
Berlin Wall 5.12b * Pete Takeda Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Oct-88
Drive by Shooting 5.12a *** Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Tucker Tech Chris Holmes Oct-88
Cling Free 5.11c * Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Rob Renolds Oct-88
Scavenger 5.10d or 5.11 Ken Ariza Pete Takeda Cade Lloyd Nov-88
House of Pain 5.12a ** Cade Lloyd Nov-88
Cross-Train Crack 5.10b Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Nov-88
Rolo-Solo Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Nov-88
Teacher's Pet Dave Yerian Cade Lloyd Ken Ariza Merry (McGrath) Braun Nov-88
Mongoloid 5.11c ** Cade Lloyd Chris Snyder Ken Ariza 1988
Bad Company 5.11a or 5.11d Ken Ariza Cade Lloyd Frank Lucido 1988
No Love-Chump Sucker 5.11c Cade Lloyd Jordy Morgan Ray Munoz Jan-89
Sample the Dog 5.12a Cade Lloyd Ray Munoz Pete Takeda Jan-89
Mean Streak 5.12b ** Kevin Fosburg Cade Lloyd Nov-89
Wide Thing 5.10d * Cade Lloyd Jeff Folett 1989
Exploited 5.11b Pete Takeda Cade Lloyd 1989
Freaky Styley 5.11d * Cade Lloyd 1989
The Hidden 5.12a * Cade Lloyd 1989
Season of the Bitch 5.11d Cade Lloyd et al late 1980s
Final Cut 5.12b *** Cade Lloyd 1990
Best Bet Arete 5.12b * Cade Lloyd 1990
Wish You Were Here 5.12a * Cade Lloyd 1990
Elvis in Chains 5.11a * Cade Lloyd et al 1990 1990
Buffy the Puppy Slayer 5.10b * Cade Lloyd et al 1990 1990
Police and Thieves 5.12b ** Kevin Fosburg Cade Lloyd 1991
Temple of Doom 5.12b ** Kevin Fosburg Cade Lloyd 1991
The Bluffer 5.11b * Eric Kohl Cade Lloyd 1992
Montgomery Cliff 5.11d * Eric Kohl Cade Lloyd 1992
Poached Elephant 5.10 A3 Ken Yager Cade Lloyd 1992
Tempest A4 Jeff Hornibrook Brad Jarret Cade Lloyd Jun-93
Peasant 5.10d ** Bryan Warshaw Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay [or Jimmy Haden 7/96] 1995
Too Slick for Thick 5.11b * Cade Lloyd Sep-96
Rummy Apes 5.10d Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay May-97
Last of the Luddites 5.10b Cade Lloyd 1996
Rock Monkey Rebellion 5.11a * Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay 1996
Eye of the Hurricane 5.11a ** Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay 1996
Giblet 5.10c ** Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay 1996
The Only Way 5.10d Bryan Kay Cade Lloyd [or Brian Knight, et al] Nov-97
Filthy Savage 5.10b * Cade Lloyd Chad Kellog Bryan Kay 1997
Yeagoo Nation 5.11 . Cade Lloyd Bryan Kay Ken Yager after 1998? 1998
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2014 - 05:53am PT
|
Eric,
I have my current list now, and it has Slap that Bitch (FA by Cade Lloyd and Kevin Fosburg, 1989), which is at This and That.
Actually it's in the 1994 guidebook, on p.63.
But the FA info in the 1994 guidebook on this route was incorrect.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 30 of total 30 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!