Climbing in approach shoes

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NutAgain!

Trad climber

South Pasadena, CA

Apr 20, 2014 - 03:54am PT

I walked off the Sentinel wearing my mythos. If you size them right, they're fine for hiking and great for climbing. I've taken flip-flops too as a compromise for comfy footwear on descent but not so bulky while climbing. Just another couple strategies to consider in the world of possibilities.

BuddhaStalin

climber

Truckee, CA

Apr 20, 2014 - 05:56am PT

Salewa wildfires, great for hiking, great for easy climbing. Next best thing to exums since the exums.

Dont listen to us though, get what fits and climb in them to your comfort level. Adjust to taste.

HighDesertDJ

Trad climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 07:04am PT

Approach shoes are ideal for anything fist sized or bigger. Face climbing is harder. Also there is an inverse correlation between how well an approach shoe climbs and how good it is to actually approach in. I remember my Boreal approach shoes back in 1997 climbed like nothing else but when I finally bought a real pair of sneakers I was amazed at how good it felt to actually walk again.

Lorenzo

Trad climber

Oregon

Apr 20, 2014 - 07:40am PT

Beats approaching in climbing shoes.

nopantsben

climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 07:41am PT

the issue is that a shoe that works well for both climbing stuff up to 5.10 and for hiking is usually quite heavy (Ganda, 5.10 C4...) and sucks if you need to carry it around on your harness or backpack when there is harder climbing on which you need proper climbing shoes.
i prefer tennis shoes on the approach,they are fine for 3rd and fourth class, and then climbing shoes for the climbing, unless i am 100% certain i won't need climbing shoes, and thus don't bring them, in which case I like the ganda's a lot.

mooser

Trad climber

seattle

Apr 20, 2014 - 09:28am PT

I don't think your question is stupid at all. Most of the posts above address the criteria-type questions for what kind of shoe, and for what purposes, etc. I've had scads of approach shoes through the years, and find these Scarpas to be my favorites yet. They are good hikers, better than average for edging, and have a narrow enough profile to jam well with hand-size cracks. I wouldn't want to take them on something with dime edges and finger locks, but they work great for lots of other scenarios.

Lorenzo

Trad climber

Oregon

Apr 20, 2014 - 09:30am PT

I have the same shoe and they are fine for moderate stuff.

Better when they are worn down a bit.

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber

Old and Broken Down in Appalachia

Apr 20, 2014 - 09:59am PT

I used to climb with Dan Dingle, he climbed 5.10 in running shoes.

I climb to ~5.6 in approach shoes like the Scarpa shown above, but I have Mad Rock approach shoes. I did all of my climbing in the Wadi Rum of Jordan in approach shoes (see my trip report).

overwatch

climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 12:39pm PT

Another plus for gandas with c 4 and agree with no pants

ruppell

climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 01:21pm PT

The problem with most approach shoes isn't climbing in them. It's approaching in them. The 5.10 guides, descents and the Sportiva Ganda all climb really well. They also all suck to do long approaches in. My own compromise for climbing in the Sierra's is using trail running shoes for the approach and any sub 5.9 climbing. Harder routes I put on the climbing shoes. I use the Sportive Raptors. They hike better than any shoe I've used as long as you have strong ankles. They don't edge for sh#t but can smear really well. I've logged a lot of miles in them and can say my feet never hurt that bad at the end of the day.

speelyei

Trad climber

Mohave County Arizona

Apr 20, 2014 - 04:36pm PT

I climb in my trail-runner shoes all the time.
The shoes are ultimately a tool, with a purpose. On some kinds of climbs, you really need the benefit of the climbing shoe, and on others, you dont.

This was a cakewalk, even in a pair of worn out tennis shoes.

I have thought a lot about buying some 5 tennies, but I figure if I need a climbing shoe, I need a real climbing shoe.

hellroaring

Trad climber

San Francisco

Apr 20, 2014 - 04:51pm PT

If you ever find the "perfect shoe", consider buying more than one pair if you.can afford it. Montrail used to makea pair of approach shoes called D7's. Loved those shoes, like Cinderella and her glass slipper they had the perfect fit/feel. Montrail stopped making them, ended up having them resoled twice with DOT sticky rubber, then they finally self destructed during a portion.of the Sierra High Route.

I was able.to even.do long approaches with a heavy pack.in those shoes and mt feet/ankles felt fine. Did a trip once in the Absorka's with 9 days of food and a 55 mile approach to start of a 20 mile traverse of the Absorka crest, mostly 3rd/4th class, with a couple/few parts of 5.4/5.6 climbing. Not one blister or sore spot. I was blessed to be sure. Then.I sprained my ankle.taking a leader fallat Lovers Leap and now I have to real hiking boots if carrying a lot of weight or dong lots of miles or that ankle starts to throb.

Still looking for a pair of shoes that were like those D7's. The La Sportiva Ganda's look interesting but pricey. The only people I know who have a pair are shop employees who got them on a pro deal

The OP should just go cragging , do a bunch routes on top route with approach shoes and a pack on. Probably would find out real quick what is comfortable and secure.