Climbing in approach shoes

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Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic

lubbockclimber

Trad climber

lubbock,tx

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 19, 2014 - 11:47pm PT

Whats you experience free climbing in approach shoes? Doable or dumb?

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Apr 19, 2014 - 11:51pm PT

Why not? The level you use them for is up to you.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Apr 20, 2014 - 12:12am PT

The less time you waste taking shoes on off the better, no?

lubbockclimber

Trad climber

lubbock,tx

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2014 - 12:13am PT

Whats your favorite pair

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Apr 20, 2014 - 12:15am PT

sucks.

edit:not really approach shoes but the evolv cruzers climb better than any non-climbing shoe.

Alpamayo

Trad climber

Sacramento, CA

Apr 20, 2014 - 12:18am PT

Can't be done. You will certainly die if you try.

Ham and Eggs

Mountain climber

Aoraki/Mt Cook Village

Apr 20, 2014 - 12:18am PT

Themz Gandalf's go pretty good.

Consideration ought be for the fit. If it involves a long hike, you might want some toe room. If the climbing is at the edges of your comfort zone, you might want a firm fit.

Also on fit. La Sportiva sold out-of Japan tend to have a broader cut/last on account of the locals tending to have a wider foot, relative to many folk in the US, Euro and antipodes.

Urmas

Social climber

Sierra Eastside

Apr 20, 2014 - 12:19am PT

I have a pair of Salewa approach shoes that fit pretty snugly. I like the idea of hiking in and climbing in the same shoes. They are great for easy 5th class peak ascents. It doesn't seem necessary to bring climbing shoes if the route is 5.9 or easier. Last summer I ended up on the West Ridge of Winchell with those shoes, and was gripped on the crux (sandbag) but I lived. For a lot of climbs I think tight shoes are overrated. See what your approach shoes can do, and save your climbing shoes for what they can't.

lubbockclimber

Trad climber

lubbock,tx

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2014 - 12:21am PT

Thanks for the advice

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Apr 20, 2014 - 12:23am PT

And you wonder why Werner is constantly saying "stupid Americans" you can climb in anything from barefeet and ballet slippers to your favorite climbing shoes. It's totally a question of what kind/level of climbing are comfortable in what type of shoe.

lubbockclimber

Trad climber

lubbock,tx

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2014 - 12:41am PT

What the f*#k is stupid about asking people's experience in climbing in them before I buy them.

tom woods

Gym climber

Bishop, CA

Apr 20, 2014 - 12:54am PT

I've tried a few things over the years. The five tennies climb okay, but in the end I like walking shoes for walking and climbing shoes for climbing.

Save weight in biners, or ropes, or cams. Shoes are your primary point of protection, along with your hands and head. You will feel better in climbing shoes. If you feel better, you are better. Feet and head will be cared for.

lubbockclimber

Trad climber

lubbock,tx

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2014 - 12:55am PT

I'm just curious if people like climbing in them with regards to going lightweight on easy multi pitch so they don't have to carry an extra pair of shoes. Wondering if the loss in performance is worth the weight savings. Guess I could have pointed that out at first.

The Larry

climber

Moab, UT

Apr 20, 2014 - 12:56am PT

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Apr 20, 2014 - 01:07am PT

maybe just go out and do it?

is there really a need to ask on an internet forum? My guess is if you left off the 2nd question in the OP ("Doable or dumb?") the thread would have taken off with lots of stories about climbing in approach shoes.

It's doable (as donini points out) at all different levels... is it dumb? what would be dumb about it?

I've climbed in my approach shoes... one time I took a friend to Munginella for her first lead... she was so anxious that she stayed up all night reading and re-reading John Long's Anchors and More Anchors. I drove us to the crag in her car and she preceded to lead the first pitch fine, until she got to the anchor.

Traditionally this is a sling around a tree, a nice stout oak tree. But she was so concerned that she had to have redundant anchors that she backed up the tree... it took her a long time and she was totally worried that she had the responsibility for my life.

When I got to the belay she informed me that she couldn't lead anymore. I had my approach shoes on and didn't expect to have to lead, but I did. It's only 5.6, right?

In the end it turned out ok... a bit different than it would have been in climbing shoes, but I got to just walk off the top without having to change, kinda casual...

The last bit of the story was interesting. At the belay near the final corner I had set the anchors deep in a crack, sort of behind a flake. She was amazed that you could do that. Having poured over those books, she recalled every picture of an anchor showed them shallow rather than deep. I pointed out to her the difficulty of shooting images of things inside of dark cracks that might be hard to see...

...probably not good to cram the night before a test. At least you should plan on getting some sleep before taking the test...

I'm not sure she ever lead again, but I was happy for her on that one lead, she did great.

MisterE

climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 01:19am PT

Tighten the laces?

Ham and Eggs

Mountain climber

Aoraki/Mt Cook Village

Apr 20, 2014 - 01:32am PT

John Long's Anchors and More Anchors.

I commend his latest - Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition

Donini. Did you ever mull over which shoes or boots to take to Pakistan or Patagonia.? Whether or not you wanted to go a size-up for increasing altitudes?

Experience helps. Perhaps why the good guy OP posed the query. Nothing stoopid Awmerican about that.

Should the shoes/feet you use offer a good sense of feel, for what you are standing-on/pinching-in/pushing-off, you're in the right gear. If it however feels slippery/loose - be good to experiment with other options.

What seems always the case, is the extra pair of shoes will be rarely the spoiler that prevents you real-enjoying the outing amongst good company.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Apr 20, 2014 - 02:18am PT

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
Whats your favorite pair

Ganda

JimT

climber

Munich

Apr 20, 2014 - 02:54am PT

It´s o.k, I´ve just spent 2 weeks climbing in Arizona in Evolv Cruzers up to 5.10´s no problem. Not sure steep crimpy limestone would be so good though! The Cruzers are the best I´ve used but durability is going to be an issue so I walked in wearing other shoes or sandals to save them a bit.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 03:42am PT

I really liked climbing in my guide tennies but i found they didn't hike so great. I tried some camp 4's this time and i really like them.

They hike good and jam real nice in wide cracks. I did a 5.8 slab in them and it worked out but i thought they were gonna fall off because they weren't tight enough. Lol not as technical as a more climbing shoe orientated model. But a good compromise.

It sounds like you're looking for something more climby. So get one that looks and feels more like a climbing shoe. (Guide tennie, ect)

NutAgain!

Trad climber

South Pasadena, CA

Apr 20, 2014 - 03:54am PT

I walked off the Sentinel wearing my mythos. If you size them right, they're fine for hiking and great for climbing. I've taken flip-flops too as a compromise for comfy footwear on descent but not so bulky while climbing. Just another couple strategies to consider in the world of possibilities.

BuddhaStalin

climber

Truckee, CA

Apr 20, 2014 - 05:56am PT

Salewa wildfires, great for hiking, great for easy climbing. Next best thing to exums since the exums.

Dont listen to us though, get what fits and climb in them to your comfort level. Adjust to taste.

HighDesertDJ

Trad climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 07:04am PT

Approach shoes are ideal for anything fist sized or bigger. Face climbing is harder. Also there is an inverse correlation between how well an approach shoe climbs and how good it is to actually approach in. I remember my Boreal approach shoes back in 1997 climbed like nothing else but when I finally bought a real pair of sneakers I was amazed at how good it felt to actually walk again.

Lorenzo

Trad climber

Oregon

Apr 20, 2014 - 07:40am PT

Beats approaching in climbing shoes.

nopantsben

climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 07:41am PT

the issue is that a shoe that works well for both climbing stuff up to 5.10 and for hiking is usually quite heavy (Ganda, 5.10 C4...) and sucks if you need to carry it around on your harness or backpack when there is harder climbing on which you need proper climbing shoes.
i prefer tennis shoes on the approach,they are fine for 3rd and fourth class, and then climbing shoes for the climbing, unless i am 100% certain i won't need climbing shoes, and thus don't bring them, in which case I like the ganda's a lot.

mooser

Trad climber

seattle

Apr 20, 2014 - 09:28am PT

I don't think your question is stupid at all. Most of the posts above address the criteria-type questions for what kind of shoe, and for what purposes, etc. I've had scads of approach shoes through the years, and find these Scarpas to be my favorites yet. They are good hikers, better than average for edging, and have a narrow enough profile to jam well with hand-size cracks. I wouldn't want to take them on something with dime edges and finger locks, but they work great for lots of other scenarios.

Lorenzo

Trad climber

Oregon

Apr 20, 2014 - 09:30am PT

I have the same shoe and they are fine for moderate stuff.

Better when they are worn down a bit.

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber

Old and Broken Down in Appalachia

Apr 20, 2014 - 09:59am PT

I used to climb with Dan Dingle, he climbed 5.10 in running shoes.

I climb to ~5.6 in approach shoes like the Scarpa shown above, but I have Mad Rock approach shoes. I did all of my climbing in the Wadi Rum of Jordan in approach shoes (see my trip report).

overwatch

climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 12:39pm PT

Another plus for gandas with c 4 and agree with no pants

ruppell

climber

Apr 20, 2014 - 01:21pm PT

The problem with most approach shoes isn't climbing in them. It's approaching in them. The 5.10 guides, descents and the Sportiva Ganda all climb really well. They also all suck to do long approaches in. My own compromise for climbing in the Sierra's is using trail running shoes for the approach and any sub 5.9 climbing. Harder routes I put on the climbing shoes. I use the Sportive Raptors. They hike better than any shoe I've used as long as you have strong ankles. They don't edge for sh#t but can smear really well. I've logged a lot of miles in them and can say my feet never hurt that bad at the end of the day.

speelyei

Trad climber

Mohave County Arizona

Apr 20, 2014 - 04:36pm PT

I climb in my trail-runner shoes all the time.
The shoes are ultimately a tool, with a purpose. On some kinds of climbs, you really need the benefit of the climbing shoe, and on others, you dont.

This was a cakewalk, even in a pair of worn out tennis shoes.

I have thought a lot about buying some 5 tennies, but I figure if I need a climbing shoe, I need a real climbing shoe.

hellroaring

Trad climber

San Francisco

Apr 20, 2014 - 04:51pm PT

If you ever find the "perfect shoe", consider buying more than one pair if you.can afford it. Montrail used to makea pair of approach shoes called D7's. Loved those shoes, like Cinderella and her glass slipper they had the perfect fit/feel. Montrail stopped making them, ended up having them resoled twice with DOT sticky rubber, then they finally self destructed during a portion.of the Sierra High Route.

I was able.to even.do long approaches with a heavy pack.in those shoes and mt feet/ankles felt fine. Did a trip once in the Absorka's with 9 days of food and a 55 mile approach to start of a 20 mile traverse of the Absorka crest, mostly 3rd/4th class, with a couple/few parts of 5.4/5.6 climbing. Not one blister or sore spot. I was blessed to be sure. Then.I sprained my ankle.taking a leader fallat Lovers Leap and now I have to real hiking boots if carrying a lot of weight or dong lots of miles or that ankle starts to throb.

Still looking for a pair of shoes that were like those D7's. The La Sportiva Ganda's look interesting but pricey. The only people I know who have a pair are shop employees who got them on a pro deal

The OP should just go cragging , do a bunch routes on top route with approach shoes and a pack on. Probably would find out real quick what is comfortable and secure.