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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 19, 2014 - 11:47pm PT
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Whats you experience free climbing in approach shoes? Doable or dumb?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 19, 2014 - 11:51pm PT
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Why not? The level you use them for is up to you.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:12am PT
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The less time you waste taking shoes on off the better, no?
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2014 - 12:13am PT
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Whats your favorite pair
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:15am PT
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sucks.
edit:not really approach shoes but the evolv cruzers climb better than any non-climbing shoe.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:18am PT
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Can't be done. You will certainly die if you try.
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Ham and Eggs
Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt Cook Village
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:18am PT
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Themz Gandalf's go pretty good.
Consideration ought be for the fit. If it involves a long hike, you might want some toe room. If the climbing is at the edges of your comfort zone, you might want a firm fit.
Also on fit. La Sportiva sold out-of Japan tend to have a broader cut/last on account of the locals tending to have a wider foot, relative to many folk in the US, Euro and antipodes.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:19am PT
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I have a pair of Salewa approach shoes that fit pretty snugly. I like the idea of hiking in and climbing in the same shoes. They are great for easy 5th class peak ascents. It doesn't seem necessary to bring climbing shoes if the route is 5.9 or easier. Last summer I ended up on the West Ridge of Winchell with those shoes, and was gripped on the crux (sandbag) but I lived. For a lot of climbs I think tight shoes are overrated. See what your approach shoes can do, and save your climbing shoes for what they can't.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2014 - 12:21am PT
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Thanks for the advice
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:23am PT
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And you wonder why Werner is constantly saying "stupid Americans" you can climb in anything from barefeet and ballet slippers to your favorite climbing shoes. It's totally a question of what kind/level of climbing are comfortable in what type of shoe.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2014 - 12:41am PT
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What the f*#k is stupid about asking people's experience in climbing in them before I buy them.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:54am PT
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I've tried a few things over the years. The five tennies climb okay, but in the end I like walking shoes for walking and climbing shoes for climbing.
Save weight in biners, or ropes, or cams. Shoes are your primary point of protection, along with your hands and head. You will feel better in climbing shoes. If you feel better, you are better. Feet and head will be cared for.
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2014 - 12:55am PT
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I'm just curious if people like climbing in them with regards to going lightweight on easy multi pitch so they don't have to carry an extra pair of shoes. Wondering if the loss in performance is worth the weight savings. Guess I could have pointed that out at first.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:56am PT
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 20, 2014 - 01:07am PT
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maybe just go out and do it?
is there really a need to ask on an internet forum? My guess is if you left off the 2nd question in the OP ("Doable or dumb?") the thread would have taken off with lots of stories about climbing in approach shoes.
It's doable (as donini points out) at all different levels... is it dumb? what would be dumb about it?
I've climbed in my approach shoes... one time I took a friend to Munginella for her first lead... she was so anxious that she stayed up all night reading and re-reading John Long's Anchors and More Anchors. I drove us to the crag in her car and she preceded to lead the first pitch fine, until she got to the anchor.
Traditionally this is a sling around a tree, a nice stout oak tree. But she was so concerned that she had to have redundant anchors that she backed up the tree... it took her a long time and she was totally worried that she had the responsibility for my life.
When I got to the belay she informed me that she couldn't lead anymore. I had my approach shoes on and didn't expect to have to lead, but I did. It's only 5.6, right?
In the end it turned out ok... a bit different than it would have been in climbing shoes, but I got to just walk off the top without having to change, kinda casual...
The last bit of the story was interesting. At the belay near the final corner I had set the anchors deep in a crack, sort of behind a flake. She was amazed that you could do that. Having poured over those books, she recalled every picture of an anchor showed them shallow rather than deep. I pointed out to her the difficulty of shooting images of things inside of dark cracks that might be hard to see...
...probably not good to cram the night before a test. At least you should plan on getting some sleep before taking the test...
I'm not sure she ever lead again, but I was happy for her on that one lead, she did great.
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MisterE
climber
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Apr 20, 2014 - 01:19am PT
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Tighten the laces?
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Ham and Eggs
Mountain climber
Aoraki/Mt Cook Village
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Apr 20, 2014 - 01:32am PT
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John Long's Anchors and More Anchors.
I commend his latest - Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition
Donini. Did you ever mull over which shoes or boots to take to Pakistan or Patagonia.? Whether or not you wanted to go a size-up for increasing altitudes?
Experience helps. Perhaps why the good guy OP posed the query. Nothing stoopid Awmerican about that.
Should the shoes/feet you use offer a good sense of feel, for what you are standing-on/pinching-in/pushing-off, you're in the right gear. If it however feels slippery/loose - be good to experiment with other options.
What seems always the case, is the extra pair of shoes will be rarely the spoiler that prevents you real-enjoying the outing amongst good company.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 20, 2014 - 02:18am PT
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
Whats your favorite pair
Ganda
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Apr 20, 2014 - 02:54am PT
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It´s o.k, I´ve just spent 2 weeks climbing in Arizona in Evolv Cruzers up to 5.10´s no problem. Not sure steep crimpy limestone would be so good though! The Cruzers are the best I´ve used but durability is going to be an issue so I walked in wearing other shoes or sandals to save them a bit.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 20, 2014 - 03:42am PT
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I really liked climbing in my guide tennies but i found they didn't hike so great. I tried some camp 4's this time and i really like them.
They hike good and jam real nice in wide cracks. I did a 5.8 slab in them and it worked out but i thought they were gonna fall off because they weren't tight enough. Lol not as technical as a more climbing shoe orientated model. But a good compromise.
It sounds like you're looking for something more climby. So get one that looks and feels more like a climbing shoe. (Guide tennie, ect)
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