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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I have the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire to be 5.5, at least in my notes.
sorry for the long list, I don't know what's up with Adam Thomas but apparently his account has been deactivated... but my intention was to list those I had done which overlapped a lot of the candidates provided... I've done Madame G's three times, so I seemed to have really liked it when I was climbing in the 'Gunks. I do After Six all the time, ropeless, or if with a partner from outside the Valley as a roped tune up. (I don't recommend that everyone do this, by the way, you have to make that choice by yourself... I feel somewhat irresponsible fessing up, on the other hand, it is a bit dishonest to deny that I solo).
Lion's Way Crescent Towers (Central Towers), page 48 in the Green & Bensen 1989 guide.
I know that various routes have had their ratings changed, I listed the rating of the climb when I did it, so to me, those were the ratings. At this stage of my climbing career, it would be irrelevant if the climbs had been up-graded to 5.7 or 5.8, but when I was starting it would have been more consequential.
Certainly right now I'd assume I could solo most 5.6's, but that wouldn't be a good assumption for a lot of the climbs on my list...
5.6 is a very fun rating, and there are some world class climbs at that rating. To paraphrase Rebuffat, we should deny none of the joys of the mountains.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Just did this 5.6 in the San Rafael Swell last week, route is called 1000’ feet of fun, coming from Alaska, just climbing in desert sun made this fun.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
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Matthes Crest. Did anyone mention Matthes Crest?
Makes for a fine day.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Even with retrobolts, I think the Hand is about as serious as 5.6 can get.
It's particularly amazing that Salathe led it without placing a bolt. High Exposure has a rather serious setting, too, however. With those two bookends, I have to throw in Grack Center as a favorite short 5.6, and any of a number of the Tuolumne ridges (and Tenaya Pk., although you have to go a bit out of your way to make it 5.6). Wolf's Head looks wonderful, but I never climbed there. Maybe next year. . .
John
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Apr 11, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
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alxj wrote:
The Joy 5.6 10 pitch, Mt Indefatigable, Kananaskis, Alberta
! Looks amazing!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 15, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
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Not sure I have done a more fun casual 5.6 pitch than Washington Irving in Eldo.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Apr 16, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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Northeast Ridge Bear Creek Spire. 5.5 / 5.6
If I remember it was mainly 4th class, but very fun climb with exposed ridge climbing.
Photo is of my daughter on ridge, used by REI.
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Apr 16, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
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Lot's of great mentions here. +1 for the original poster's mention of The Hand in Pinnacles. The Salathe route: historic, adventerous, old school. Quite bold and spicy for it's number grade, at least I thought so. Classic "full value".
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William Finley
Social climber
Anchorage
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Apr 16, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
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Chapelle de la Gliere's South Ridge. Wonderful climbing! Cham IV which apparently means 5.5 - 5.8.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Apr 16, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
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Did
Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
Angel's Fright (5.6 in the new books)
Ecstasy (5.7, but seemed like an exposed 5.6 to me)
get mentioned yet? :)
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John Ely
Trad climber
DC
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Apr 16, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
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Of course there is no right answer to this question.
What's My Line
Cathedral Peak
Great White Book
are three I loved on the west coast.
'Green Wall' at Seneca and Wiessner's 'Yellow Ridge' at the Gunks used to be five six in the good old days; 'Madame G's' and 'High Exposure' still are, and 'Disneyland', perhaps the nicest moderate climb in the Gunks, has become that.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Apr 16, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
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William - that is a cool climb. getting on that arête is a can't miss photo.
my top pics would be
Comic wall, Castle Crags
West Ridge of Conness
Cathedral Peak
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Apr 16, 2014 - 08:37pm PT
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First Flatiron, although many may prefer to do it in a different season.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Apr 17, 2014 - 11:01am PT
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Only mentioned once at the bottom of a long list posted by the Doc.
'Thin Air' Cathedral Ledge ! <--- needs recognition
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This is a cool thread. Lot's of great looking routes I have never heard of.
In a way it would be nice to not limit it to 5.6 specifically and instead say 'Best/most classic routes 5.7/5.8 and under'
Then we could include routes like the Whitney Gilman ridge on Cannon etc.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 17, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
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Conn Traverse is a full value 5.6 on Outer Outlet in the Black Hills Needles.
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Morchel
Trad climber
Neustadt, Germany
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Apr 17, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
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5.6??? Must be something about grade V in the UIAA system?
Some "worldclass" from Europe I know in this grade...
Normalveien - Stendind (Norway)
Panoramix - Biberkopf (Alps)
The luisiana rib - Stanage (England)
Südverschneidung - Spirkelbacher (Pfalz, Germany)
Südkante - Grosse Hunskirche (Saxony, Germany)
Kühnsche Variante - Blosstock (Saxony, Germany)
Alter Weg - Chinesischer Turm (Saxony, Germany)
Alter Dachweg - Buchholzfels (Pfalz, Germany)
But I will not forget the US...
Geronimo - Red Rocks
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L-Train
Boulder climber
Lehighton, Pennsylvania
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Apr 18, 2014 - 07:18am PT
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I have to say Royal Arches in Yosemite. Even though it's a 5.7 I think most of its pitches are 5.6.
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