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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 1, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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The Tom Egan Wall thread (what a great thread!) inspired me to post...
My lady and I are planning on ~1 month in the Bugs this summer. We have never been up there and are PSYCHED. What book should I buy? Green and Bensen (2003) or Atkinson and Piche (2003)?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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better to get both guides, since you're likely to be reading them during the spells between climbing weather...
...I always figured 1 out of 2 days (average) was a very good Canadian climbing trip.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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RP3,
I have the second edition Green and Benson book. You are welcome to borrow it.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Roger,
I have both and you can borrow them.
Usually people only do a few routes in their first visit,
so you could scan a few pages and be all set.
 Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route
Bugaboo, NE Ridge
Pigeon, W Ridge
Snowpatch Spire, SE Corner (aka Snowpatch route)
Snowpatch, Surf's Up (climbing maybe not that great, but cool summit)
Snowpatch, Sunshine (great looking line, but in the shade and has an ow)
South Howser, Beckey-Chouinard
People often do routes at McTech Arete, as a warmup,
but I recommend not wasting good weather and go straight to the bigger climbs.
[Edit:] I failed to read that you are planning 1 month!
I recommend taking a week of that and going to Elephant's Perch in the Sawtooths.
It's on the way back from the Bugaboos, and the rock and climbs are great.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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Thanks for the generous offers, Chris and Clint. I prefer to purchase guidebooks to add to my collection and to support the immense amount of work that goes into compiling a guidebook. Clint, is there one you prefer?
We definitely hope to jump straight to the larger climbs. We have decades of experience in the Sierra so we feel ready for the big classics. This is the first summer we both have the time to take such a trip, and we want to get in as much as possible (weather permitting).
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pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Get the Atkinson and Piche book, I found it much better and that's also the advise I got when in your shoes.
Also, do Sunshine crack!
Also, look up some of the new routes on Bugaboo Spire East Face and Snowpatch... mountainproject has some beta, there are blogs online with topos... easy approach from camp, less objective danger, no crowds! (The fewer times you have to go up/down the Snowpatch/Bugaboo col, the better.)
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pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Also, what's a thread without pictures.. get psyched!!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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is there one you prefer? Roger,
For climbing, I like the topos in Benson and Green.
For browsing / looking at climbs, the overlay photos in Atkinson and Piche are good. It also has more climbs, although there are new ones since its publication. (I have a list on my website, but I imagine you will be busy with any good weather doing established routes).
Have fun out there.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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We have decades of experience in the Sierra...
it's not the Sierra (by a long shot) but you'll have fun learning!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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No information on either, unfortunately--but, Randall is a friend living in Helena, MT and is a great guy to help support :-)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Heard a funny story about the record for doing the BC on S.Howser from Squamish to Squamish is something like 48hrs.
Have fun dude, you guys will crush. Write us a tr after too eh!
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ruppell
climber
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It's definitely not the Sierras. Bring water proof boots and crampons. lol And yes Sunshine Cracks is that good.
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pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Last pitch of Sunshine. T-shirt to the top and got to the base in running shoes last July. (Late start required for t-shirt weather, like noon or 1pm at the earliest)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Atkinson/Piche, no contest.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2014 - 10:45am PT
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Thanks for the responses. The coefficient of stoke is high right now.
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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
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