Tom Egan Wall, Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos

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marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 10, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
Hey hosers. This is the last pitch of "Power of Lard". Quite a looker, eh?


Steve Grossman's "Warrior's Way" and "Hockey Night in Jersey" along with the late Darrel Hatten's "Tom Egan Memorial Route" are also right around there. Who's been up that way and has stories to share?

Other reference points:
Jon Walsh/AlpineStyle.ca

Will Stanhope

Ben Bransby blog and video

The Future is Now
Cloudraker

Sport climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 10, 2013 - 10:55pm PT

BOOM!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Apr 10, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
That is such a friggin fine line.

I spent a lot of time at the base staring up at that line.

Sick - er, psych - photos in those blogs

Nice links
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Apr 11, 2013 - 12:56am PT
uh, warrior way was NOT done by grossman.

me, the jirka brothers, and maddog did it with too little beer and I wandered off to climb with susan detweiler while the others sat in a tent and captured a mouse for the day.


....long story.

July 1993.

obvious right angling corner that goes up toward the egan headwall but stays to the left.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 11, 2013 - 01:44am PT
88. Sunshine Wall FA: Art Higbee, David Breashears, 1975
89. Warrior Way FA: Cliff Jirka, Craig Jirka, Andy Dannerbeck, Rick D, 7/1993
90. Hockey Night in Jersey FA: Keith Johnson, Steve Grossman, 8/1994
91. Sweet Sylvia FA: Craig Luebben, Will Hair, Brad Jackson, Kennan Harvey, 7/1997
92. Tom Eagan Memorial FA: Daryl Hatten, John Simpson, 1978
93. The Power of Lard FA: Toni Lamprecht, Gunter Dengler, 1996, AAJ
94. White Ducks in Space FA: Rob Orvig, Jock Richardson, 7/1982
95. Hobo's Haven FA: Jim Beyer, 8/1976

[Edited - thanks, gf]

This is from my Bugaboos route list, which is somewhat incomplete, but could be updated:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/bugaboos/index.htm
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 08:30am PT
Thanks for the corrections. The Piche/Atkinson guide had both wrong--Daryl and the FA team. Now that that's been settled, how about some stories?

Other cool Bugaboos links:

Jason Kruk's blog

Belgian big wall fiesta with banjos
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 11, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
My friend Cory posted a nice Bugaboos trip report here in 2006, which starts with photos of climbing Sunshine:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/251489/Great-time-in-the-Bugaboos-Photo-TR
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Stewart

Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
Apr 24, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
Note to Clint - the correct spelling is "The Tom Egan Memorial Route".
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Apr 24, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
[url=http://s319.photobucket.com/user/weststronghold/media/warrior_zps6f6fb1fd.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm467/weststronghold/warrior_zps6f6fb1fd.jpg[/img][/url]

warrior way line- does not summit
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
I don't have time to tell the story of Hockey Night in Jersey with Keith Johnson right now beyond saying that we are Rangers fans but I do have this account of the Tom Egan Memorial FA from The Bugaboos by J F Garden.








I have been meaning to post this in Daryl's memory for a while so this is a great place for it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 28, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
Hatten Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 19, 2013 - 11:48am PT
Bump for a Bugaboo...
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
Bugaboo pysch!
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 02:56pm PT

Lots of action under clear skies last week! The Applebee gang seem to extra-strong and motivated. que tenga suerte, chicos!
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 12:44am PT
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Apr 1, 2014 - 12:55am PT
Repeating Southern Belle never hurts on your resume.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 1, 2014 - 12:34pm PT
Bump for a good story of passion and determination.

Thanks Greg
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jun 16, 2014 - 07:02pm PT

A rad photo from Instagram. Photo credit to Tim Kemple!
uncrushed

Trad climber
North Vancouver
Aug 17, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
It went down:

https://instagram.com/p/6fjH9pDpSI/?taken-by=willstanhope

Awesome!
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