Tom Egan Wall, Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 10, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
Hey hosers. This is the last pitch of "Power of Lard". Quite a looker, eh?

From Jon Walsh's superb blog, alpinestyle.ca
From Jon Walsh's superb blog, alpinestyle.ca
Credit: marty(r)

Steve Grossman's "Warrior's Way" and "Hockey Night in Jersey" along with the late Darrel Hatten's "Tom Egan Memorial Route" are also right around there. Who's been up that way and has stories to share?

Other reference points:
Jon Walsh/AlpineStyle.ca

Will Stanhope

Ben Bransby blog and video

The Future is Now
Cloudraker

Sport climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 10, 2013 - 10:55pm PT


BOOM!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Apr 10, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
That is such a friggin fine line.

I spent a lot of time at the base staring up at that line.

Sick - er, psych - photos in those blogs

Nice links
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Apr 11, 2013 - 12:56am PT
uh, warrior way was NOT done by grossman.

me, the jirka brothers, and maddog did it with too little beer and I wandered off to climb with susan detweiler while the others sat in a tent and captured a mouse for the day.


....long story.

July 1993.

obvious right angling corner that goes up toward the egan headwall but stays to the left.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 11, 2013 - 01:16am PT
"Daryl Hatten" for the correct spelling :-)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 11, 2013 - 01:44am PT
88. Sunshine Wall FA: Art Higbee, David Breashears, 1975
89. Warrior Way FA: Cliff Jirka, Craig Jirka, Andy Dannerbeck, Rick D, 7/1993
90. Hockey Night in Jersey FA: Keith Johnson, Steve Grossman, 8/1994
91. Sweet Sylvia FA: Craig Luebben, Will Hair, Brad Jackson, Kennan Harvey, 7/1997
92. Tom Eagan Memorial FA: Daryl Hatten, John Simpson, 1978
93. The Power of Lard FA: Toni Lamprecht, Gunter Dengler, 1996, AAJ
94. White Ducks in Space FA: Rob Orvig, Jock Richardson, 7/1982
95. Hobo's Haven FA: Jim Beyer, 8/1976

[Edited - thanks, gf]

This is from my Bugaboos route list, which is somewhat incomplete, but could be updated:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/bugaboos/index.htm
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 08:30am PT
Thanks for the corrections. The Piche/Atkinson guide had both wrong--Daryl and the FA team. Now that that's been settled, how about some stories?

Other cool Bugaboos links:

Jason Kruk's blog

Belgian big wall fiesta with banjos
gf

climber
Apr 11, 2013 - 08:38am PT
94. White Ducks in Space FA: Rob Orvig, Jock Richardson, 7/1987 -should read 1982
tom egan should read 1978
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 11, 2013 - 11:29am PT
Now that that's been settled, how about some stories?


Aside from 25 minutes of a stuck knee in the Sunshine offwidth I can't contribute much. I'd say the modern stuff going up in the past 6 or so years is the real story, of which John Walsh and friends have been the main protagonists. I sampled the first 7 pitches of Sendero Norte a while ago and if the all the other stuff is as good there is now an amazing collection of 5 star climbing on the east side of Snowpatch. For decades there was much talk and speculation about the crazy potential of the cracks way up on the Tom Egan headwall but as usual not much happened until a euro raiding party showed up.

Or is it epics you want? I bet I havn't been the only one doing the fissure Bosyen up there! Theres bound to be a few good lightening strike stories as well.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 11, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
My friend Cory posted a nice Bugaboos trip report here in 2006, which starts with photos of climbing Sunshine:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/251489/Great-time-in-the-Bugaboos-Photo-TR
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Stewart

Trad climber
Courtenay, B.C.
Apr 24, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
Note to Clint - the correct spelling is "The Tom Egan Memorial Route".
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Apr 24, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
[url=[/url" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://s319.photobucket.com/user/weststronghold/media/warrior_zps6f6fb1fd.jpg.html][/url]

warrior way line- does not summit
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 26, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
I don't have time to tell the story of Hockey Night in Jersey with Keith Johnson right now beyond saying that we are Rangers fans but I do have this account of the Tom Egan Memorial FA from The Bugaboos by J F Garden.















I have been meaning to post this in Daryl's memory for a while so this is a great place for it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 28, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
Hatten Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 19, 2013 - 11:48am PT
Bump for a Bugaboo...
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
May 19, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
Bugaboo pysch!
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
Will Stanhope &#40;?&#41; working the line last week.
Will Stanhope (?) working the line last week.
Credit: marty(r)

Lots of action under clear skies last week! The Applebee gang seem to extra-strong and motivated. ˇque tenga suerte, chicos!
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 12:44am PT
From Innate-Gear's FaceBook page.
From Innate-Gear's FaceBook page.
Credit: marty(r)
gf

climber
Aug 16, 2013 - 09:22am PT
link for the sportsmen stanhope and segal trying really hard on the tom egan
Post climbing beer, fingers worked courtesy of the tom egan
Post climbing beer, fingers worked courtesy of the tom egan
Credit: segal-stanhope
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151744292064555.1073741835.80777364554&type=1
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