High Sierra Couloir Report

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Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Aug 27, 2010 - 04:55pm PT
did the Feather Peak Coulior on 8.26.10

The Royce Lakes at the base of Feather Peak
The Royce Lakes at the base of Feather Peak
Credit: Flanders!
Feather Peak Coulior on Aug. 26, 2010
Feather Peak Coulior on Aug. 26, 2010
Credit: Flanders!
great ice in the upper part of the Coulior
great ice in the upper part of the Coulior
Credit: Flanders!


Doug
rhyang

climber
SJC
Aug 27, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
Beautiful shots Doug !
rhyang

climber
SJC
Sep 17, 2010 - 01:32am PT
Soloed the Dana Couloir this morning -



Bergschrund is open, but there was a good snowbridge on the right hand side. The ice now stretches all the way across the couloir, but less so on the left. Beautiful textured ice, clear as glass in some places.

superbum

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 2, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
Any up to date info on Feather?

Or any other Sierra Ice?

Let's keep the beta buoyant!

vic

10-02-10
superbum

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 2, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
sorta recent:

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Feather-Peak-North-Couloir-lots-of-pictures-9-12-10/t10772n.html
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Oct 3, 2010 - 12:28am PT
Took several North Peak couloir pics on Sunday-9/26/10 while hiking the N Ridge on N Peak.

Conditions:
The ice in the right couloir looks very nice.
Left couloir has lots of exposed rock and debris in its upper 3rd -- wouldn't go there if i were you.
Middle couloir is much less appealing than on 9/8/10 when it held no appeal whatsoever...

Posted the recent pics on the earlier North Peak TR thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Tis-the-season-back-to-North-Peak-left-and-right-couloirs-9-8-10/t10762n.html

motoservo

Big Wall climber
Austin, TX
Oct 5, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
Went to climb Left Mendel Couloir (Ice 9) this weekend. Didn't get close enough to really see the condition of the ice but there was lots of it. Got hit with what I assume is the first significant snowfall of the season when we woke up Sunday morning so we had to turn back.
Mt Mendel &#40;Ice 9 &#41; from across the col on Sunday October 3rd, 2010.
Mt Mendel (Ice 9 ) from across the col on Sunday October 3rd, 2010.
Credit: motoservo
rhyang

climber
SJC
Oct 17, 2010 - 11:49am PT
Red Slate Mountain's north couloir yesterday -



Simul-soloed with a couple of guys from socal (John and Sean) who happened to get there at the same time. ~6 inches of snow in the couloir from the last storm, so you need a partner just to help break trail :)

But there was still some ice & neve exposed, making for a fun climb. The left turn about 3/4 of the way up led to three sub-chutes with some fun & easy mixed. Top out is literally yards from the summit.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Oct 18, 2010 - 01:25am PT
Rhyang - congrats on getting Red Slate before more snow fell. Nice pic! Thanks for the update on conditions.
marv

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Oct 30, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
would love to get on some alpine ice one week from today... maybe the recent snowfall will have blown/melted off (four or five days of sunny high-pressure forecast)

anyone got fresh beta?
Bad Climber

climber
Oct 30, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
Great photo of Red Slate! That makes a fine solo. I've done most of the classic couloirs in the Sierras, and for my taste, when the angle isn't that steep, I prefer doing them in early season, snowy conditions. I've done the right Mendel three times, always somewhat early season. This means the easy angled stuff is solid neve/step kicking, and the steep narrow part is nice ice. I've also seen some spectacular rock fall down the N. face of Mendel, too. I'm not kidding--HOUSE-sized boulders roaring into the basin, clouds of dust. We could easily make out the different facets of the monster chunk as it spun down the wall. We were camped on the opposite side of the valley below Lemark Col. On that trip, we climbed Darwin instead!

BAd
powderdan

Social climber
mammoth lakes
Oct 30, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
powder!
PeteC

climber
Oct 30, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
ignore powderdan. he says that about 100 times a day. it's like Tourette's Syndrome.
marv

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Nov 5, 2010 - 09:36pm PT
unsettled weather bump
powderdan

Social climber
mammoth lakes
Nov 7, 2010 - 01:15am PT
powder!!!
PeteC

climber
Nov 7, 2010 - 01:27am PT
see what I mean..
NMR

Trad climber
Berkeley
Apr 29, 2012 - 01:07am PT
With the impending opening of Tioga Pass I am curious what some of these routes look like this time of year. I know the alpine ice conditions wouldn't be present but, for example, would the Dana couloir be an enjoyable snow climb in May? Or will it just be too warm wet snow?
NMR

Trad climber
Berkeley
Apr 29, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
Bump?
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