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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Feb 26, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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The Burn
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jstan
climber
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Feb 26, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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For years after, John would belay people top ropping at Carderock by just holding the rope in his hands.
Nobody objected.
We need more McGowan stories.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 26, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
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Here you go, Jstan. . .
About 1978, John M was visiting Boulder, and he and Jim Nigro and
I were going to go climbing in Boulder Canyon. We got signals mixed,
and John and I ended up having to drive up the canyon to meet Jim
somewhere up there. We were driving up, near to Castle rock,
and Jim passed us going down or something like that. So we did a u-turn
right there and passed numerous vehicles going down canyon to catch up. . .
nuts. . . .
and the times where John was about to eat cigarettes so someone would
buy him a burger (I think Mal Banks was behind one of those. . .)
Fortunately someone bought the burger for him first.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Feb 26, 2014 - 07:41pm PT
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We need more McGowan stories.
Jeez, John.
That you appeared to let him do it was one of the reasons I didn't object.
Maybe you should have looked back at your belayer.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Feb 26, 2014 - 07:46pm PT
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Feb 26, 2014 - 11:04am PT
The Burn
The Burn (5.8)
Credit: Rudder
Classic Seneca.
If you take a West Coast climber and told them it was 5.8 they would hit you.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Feb 26, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
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If you take a West Coast climber and told them it was 5.8 they would hit you.
Cause it's more like Index 5.6!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 26, 2014 - 07:58pm PT
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West pole with the Direct finish.
Pleasant O's
marshals to crack of Dawn
Gunsite direct.
Tomatoe
Soler
Alcoa
High Test
Green wall
Extacy
Tripple S
Yee gods
candy Corner
Old ladies is a fun Scramble
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Feb 26, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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Cause it's more like Index 5.6!
Maybe, but index will have three bolts at the hard parts.
You didn't read my tag line, apparently
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Feb 26, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Yeh.
Must be why we are both still alive.
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CClarke
climber
La Paz, Bolivia
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Feb 26, 2014 - 08:51pm PT
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Spock's Brain.
Ben is certainly one of the finest individuals I've had as a partner. I'm not sure I could've made the catch John did. But I would have tried.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 08:51pm PT
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Still working on my pix.
How about Simple J. Malarkey? Frosted Flake? Mad Men Only? Wild Men Only?
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Feb 26, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
Still working on my pix.
How about Simple J. Malarkey? Frosted Flake? Mad Men Only? Wild Men Only?
Wow. Huge range.
Has anybody named Nip and Tuck?
Best route for its grade almost anywhere.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 09:55pm PT
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HHOOOOWWEEEE!! Nip and Tuck is VERY GOOD!
A little harder- Terra Firma,The Changeling,The Bell!
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CClarke
climber
La Paz, Bolivia
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Feb 26, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
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Are we going with routes we have led or just nice routes?
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 11:28pm PT
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I should think you can submit any route, but suppose you ought to have lead it to give an honest opinion.
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jstan
climber
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Feb 26, 2014 - 11:46pm PT
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I should think you can submit any route, but suppose you ought to have lead it to give an honest opinion.
Fifty years later when you can't remember anything, handwritten notes will be a big help.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Feb 27, 2014 - 12:18am PT
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I remember trying Totem with Jeff Burns (AKA The Mouth of Seneca) RIP and Rich Pleiss in 1975. After some shenanigans we retreated to drink some 3.2 Strohs...
... nice work on that thing John!
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2014 - 12:30am PT
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Moderate but scary;
Duftys Popoff
Duftys again on The S. Pillar.
Sunshine, With and Without the bolt.
Dyna-Mo-Hum!
How could I forget on of my ALL TIME FAVORITES?!?!?
Cicumflex 5.9 HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAA!!!!!!!!!!!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Feb 27, 2014 - 01:43am PT
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From our family trip in 2008, the year we took off and visited as many climbing areas as we could. Home schooled the kids; music class here. Seneca was one of the favorites.
Note the lack of gendarme
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Feb 27, 2014 - 02:35am PT
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How could I forget on of my ALL TIME FAVORITES?!?!?
Cicumflex 5.9 HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAA!!!!!!!!!!!
Made me snort beer out my nose.
When the Webster 1975 guide came out I was pretty new to climbing, but had just come off a couple of good weeks in the gunks. My irst trip to Seneca -my partner's second. Looked in the book and saw something like
5.8
"Innovative protection makes this an interesting route"
Figuring I needed more practice placing gear, I talked my partner into it. We finished it because I didn't trust a single piece of gear to lower and wasn't sure I could down climb it. (Stoppers only, back then). More accurately, I didn't want to touch some of the holds I pulled up on again. I chucked a couple off.
As it happened, Webster was in the parking lot when we got down, and my partner had to stop me from killing Him. I went cold turkey on climbing for a season.
I think the next edition added the clarification that an early attempt took a 60 footer and just missed the block at the start.
Oh yeah. I still have a 10th mountain piton I pulled out by hand from it.
It's the exception to the rule that anything with Laeger's name on it is good.
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