SENECA ROCKS

yes, let's get Ben on here and have him tell how John McGowan saved his life when he fell while soloing. Long and short of it - they were both soloing something on the east face, Ben was tied into a rope but just trailing it, he fell and John was straddling a flake but not tied in and just grabbed the rope when big Ben popped off and sailed past, John got major rope burns on his hands but hung on.

For years after, John would belay people top ropping at Carderock by just holding the rope in his hands.

Nobody objected.

We need more McGowan stories.

Feb 26, 2014 - 11:04am PT
The Burn



The Burn (5.8)
Credit: Rudder

If you take a West Coast climber and told them it was 5.8 they would hit you.

Cause it's more like Index 5.6!

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
Still working on my pix.

How about Simple J. Malarkey? Frosted Flake? Mad Men Only? Wild Men Only?

I should think you can submit any route, but suppose you ought to have lead it to give an honest opinion.

How could I forget on of my ALL TIME FAVORITES?!?!?

Cicumflex 5.9 HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAA!!!!!!!!!!!

jstan

climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 19, 2016 - 10:22pm PT
I was standing in D C Harper's store looking at the rough plank front door and reading the OPA regulations on prices that could be charged during WWII. That they were there at all was a West Virginia political protest by Buck Harper. West Virginians wanted nothing to do with dandified Virginians nor with city folk from Washington. Indeed West Virginians who came to that state after the War were considered outsiders. The Civil War. I noticed a little guy running around the store on a tricycle while making engine noises. As he reached down and pretended to turn off his engine, I saw a smile appear on Buck's face. The little boy may have been Joe Harper who now operates the store. This was the experience this climber got in Mouth of Seneca.

Buck then addressed me directly saying "Let's take a ride. I have to show you something." We got into his four wheel drive stake rack truck and headed up impossibly steep tracks into the woods. He stopped the truck as we were traversing the steepest part saying "open your window." I swear it seemed a 60 degree slope. Pointing down slope he said, "My mother was born right down there." I have to think she survived only because a tree stopped her from rolling all the way to the valley floor.

I had been involved in getting climbers to lobby the NFS not to site a recreation center and a road in what little bottom land existed in Mouth of Seneca. Buck wanted to show me a high route for the new road that would not destroy Mouth of Seneca. We came on the remains of a log cabin that clearly had been vacant for a century or more. Buck said," Living up here you needed to lay in enough food to get you to spring. There were bear and deer up here but young people today seem unwilling to have snow blow in on their faces at night." I myself grew up with that experience and I have to say it isn't bad.

Climbing has many facets and relationships within the climbing community and without. Both are essential parts of what we gain from the activity.

I would be amazed if recycled beer cans went directly into making bar stock commercially but you never know until you ask.