Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2014 - 10:00pm PT
|
Favorite route(or routes).
Come on Tacos, I know there's some "right-coasters" here.
I'll post my pix as soon as I can make it over to Roys place.
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 10:05pm PT
|
What grade range?
If you want a nice route, a good place to start is by doing the Herb Laeger routes.
Not any different than when you are on the West Coast.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
|
Cottonmouth
Castor & Pollux
Ecstasy
Green Wall
Triple S
Marshall's Madness
High Test
Gosh, I can't remember the names of them all. . .
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
|
Gunsight. Also something about dynamite and a free standing pillar? Sounds like a super climber friendly area. lol
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 10:48pm PT
|
Mine are all on slides. . .
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
|
Great place. Would like to make it back there some day.
Marshall's on the left, Triple-S on the right.
|
|
little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
|
Favorite route will always be Triple S.
Here's a shot of me from 1973 topping out on Ecstacy - my first multiple pitch climb! Notice signs of the times - Rugby shirt and super stretchy bicolored rope (you had to dye it yourself) made by MSR.
The climbing was fun. So was camping at old Buck Harper's campground (he'd be up at 6:00 in the morning and kick you while you were in your sleeping bag if you hadn't paid up yet), eating at the 4 U, goin' to the Bear Paw Inn to see the bear paw, and hanging out at the Gendarme playing darts with the lads, reading the climbing rags and fondling the gear (Markwell was an understanding bloke).
Have more photos but all are on slides.
|
|
TwistedCrank
climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 11:28pm PT
|
The Gendarme, One of my first leads. 1980. RIP.
|
|
Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 11:28pm PT
|
West Pole
Shipley's Shivering Shimmy (Triple S)
Agony
Marshall's Madness
High Test
Climbin' Punishment
Soler
Conn's East (and direct)
Castor
Pollux
Ye Gods and Little Fishes
LSD
Complete Skyline Tour
The Gendarme (RIPices)
Many fun climbs with quality in the mellower grades as a bonus. Great fun there climbing as a kid in the late-60s and into the mid-70s.
|
|
elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 11:54pm PT
|
SteveW and Todd get the prize for the best routes of what has become sorta medium grades I would guess by now!
|
|
Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2014 - 11:56pm PT
|
Muscle Beach
Alcoa Presents
Orangeaid
Frosted Flake
High Test
Climb N Punishment
Venom
Gendarme!
Never did Coxcomb Overhang Direct, that looks rad.
Lichen or Leave It
|
|
Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2014 - 12:01am PT
|
El Pic, there were some pretty good foot steps to follow...
... thanks!
|
|
Climberdude
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2014 - 12:31am PT
|
Already missing Seneca Rocks since moving back to Kali last year from Maryland. Led "Gunsight To South Peak" and "Conn's West" many times, but never got tired of them. IMO "Conn's West Direct" is one of the best moderate routes. One of the few places besides the Gunks where you can get breathtaking exposure even on "moderate" routes. Of course the ratings for Seneca Rocks and the Gunks are in a class of their own. I will miss hanging out at the Gendarme, The Front Porch, grooving to Zen, and Seneca Shadows Campground.
Climberdude
|
|
ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2014 - 12:47am PT
|
OMG! I have the same exact photo from my first lead on Ecstasy. I am going to go dig it out..
|
|
Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2014 - 12:53am PT
|
Perhaps Ben Mealy can describe almost extruding Glen Randall through a carabiner on Pleasant O?
|
|
little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2014 - 01:09am PT
|
yes, let's get Ben on here and have him tell how John McGowan saved his life when he fell while soloing. Long and short of it - they were both soloing something on the east face, Ben was tied into a rope but just trailing it, he fell and John was straddling a flake but not tied in and just grabbed the rope when big Ben popped off and sailed past, John got major rope burns on his hands but hung on.
|
|
Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2014 - 01:16am PT
|
Oh yea, "The first years are the hardest years..."
|
|
Reedly
Social climber
The High Desert, CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2014 - 02:08am PT
|
I regret that I didn't climb there. I visited on a rainy day and hung out at the Gendarme for a bit and then hit the road. One more place I hope to return to.
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2014 - 03:56am PT
|
yes, let's get Ben on here and have him tell how John McGowan saved his life when he fell while soloing. Long and short of it - they were both soloing something on the east face, Ben was tied into a rope but just trailing it, he fell and John was straddling a flake but not tied in and just grabbed the rope when big Ben popped off and sailed past, John got major rope burns on his hands but hung on.
For years after, John would belay people top ropping at Carderock by just holding the rope in his hands.
Nobody objected.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2014 - 01:50pm PT
|
This thread is LONG overdue.
I just emailed Ben so hopefully he will come and join in the fun.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!