Karma done again!

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 123 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
elcapfool

Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
Aug 11, 2006 - 08:45am PT
Didn't Hank Caylor take a wicked fall on an attempt on that one?

I seem to remeber him discribing it as being "dragged behind a pick-up, across a cheese-grater."

Too bad the current trend is to do established stuff in a faster time to have something to spray about in the rags. I would think the self-professed "soul climbers" would prefer to experience the glistening saphire of enlightenment offered by Karma, but since you guys didn't record your "car-to-car" time, there is no record to beat.

Some people pick plums to eat them, and other people pick them to sell to others who can't reach the tree branch.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Aug 11, 2006 - 11:17am PT
Body & Soul had an ascent by Tracy Dufriend(spelling?) in 1994. I did it with him, and he took a fall at the roof, descended, pulled the rope & went up again & did it. Strong guy he was, did the B&Y too that year. Whatever happened to him?

Hank Caylor took a 70 footer off Southern Belle, which he said was scarier than the fabled B&Y.

Levy
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Aug 11, 2006 - 12:56pm PT
This must have been quite a special experience.

Each decade held unsung examples which appealed to the grand tradition of boldness.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2006 - 12:09am PT
I remember talking to Walt after he did Southern Belle with Dave. Walt said that he was totally gripped while on the route and felt pressure on his pitches to really run it out, because Dave was going for it on his.

Walt said he asked Dave how Karma compared to their route when they were near the top and the worst was over. Apparently, Dave just laughed and said Karma is way scarier.

Ken

p.s. When I said prizes, I think I would include anything up there. To me they all look good.
Fluoride

Trad climber
California somewhere
Aug 12, 2006 - 12:51am PT
"It is rarely travelled though I don't know why"

Cause Captain approaches are way shorter and most people don't want to hike up 6 miles with a pig on them.

I think the rock is stunning. I was up there in May poking around, took a bunch of snaps wondering what was up there. Ken, do you have a bigger pic of the South Face that shows where it goes?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2006 - 12:58am PT
Flouride,

I do have a picture of the South Face and will attempt to draw the route in. It is pretty obvious when wandering up there.

Ken
Mimi

Trad climber
Seattle
Aug 12, 2006 - 01:00am PT
Thanks for the S. Belle story Ken. Hilarious.
Walleye

climber
Yosemite Valley
Aug 12, 2006 - 01:03am PT
To Levy
I remember Tracey Du Friend?? and the whole low level "buzz" surrounding him. I remember talk of him doing the B&Y, but thad no idea about "Body & Soul" which finally answers a longstanding question about the route. Apparently you guys got the 3rd and nobody really knew about it until now. Congrats. Mystery finally answered in 06 versus immediate publication in the daily cryer detailing speed, time, which hand went where ect ect...... The Iron Monkey would have surely had the 3rd, but he too got spanked from the roof and actually never went back after pulling the rope. It's funny too, because Dave always said that was one of the more "burly" experiences he had on a short route, and this from a man who had oh so many.

Also, "El Cap Fool" Great post and I could not agree more. You said a lot in 2 sentences.... Ha ha ha "Soul Climber" too effin funny and oh so true. You kill me!!!!!!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2006 - 02:15am PT
Here you go Fluoride,

The South Face.



The general area.



The route with the right hand variation marked in. The right variation would be the easiest way to go for an ascent. The left variation has more potential to go free.



Ken
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 10:31pm PT
The Tigers belly from where the route starts.



The derelicts before we got into this mess.



Ken
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Aug 13, 2006 - 11:49pm PT
Is that Jim Campbell in the center? Didn't he help with the efforts up there?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
T2,

Yes, that is Jim. Just saw him and Carol recently they are doing well.

-Ken
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Apr 5, 2008 - 08:43am PT
Ken,

Two years on the back pages is enough for this underappreciated thread!! We've had so many junk threads, that I think this one deserves another look what with all the commotion over on the "Growing Up" thread. What an amazing thing you guys did!

What the heck ever happened to Jim Cambell? I climbed the West Face of El Cap in a day with he and Scott Burk back around that time. (1987) We had a ball up there. If you see him, please tell him that Bruce said hello. That's the first photo I've seen of him in twenty years.....amazing.
Who's Iron Monkey??
wildone

climber
Where you want to be
Apr 5, 2008 - 10:38am PT
Ken, those have to be some of the most amazing photos I've seen, anywhere. Thank you for sharing them with us. We spent a lot of time on the tiger's belly under your route, looking up at that big corner to the right. We've had many a conversation about how amazing that feature and your route are. I would love to someday have the nerves for that thing. That is some zen master sh#t, to be sure. I'm coming up there today to do some long routes in the valley. I'll swing by tonight to say hi.
Ben
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Apr 5, 2008 - 11:12am PT

RE: "Who's Iron Monkey??" = Dave Shultz
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Apr 5, 2008 - 11:25am PT
This is the Topic that should attain 600+ posts.

Thanks Ken!
L

climber
If only I could remember....
Apr 5, 2008 - 11:44am PT
Wow Ken, those are beautiful and literally quite awe-inspiring photos.

How the hell did you guys keep it together up there???

I'm looking at that dike and thinking, "Any minute, any second...the call of the wild blue yonder is going to end in For Whom the Bells Toll.

You obviously have some good karma going for you. Thanks for sharing the experience.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2008 - 12:10pm PT
Thank you L,

I am glad you like them.

How the hell did you guys keep it together up there???

After we cast off, the wall got more overhanging and longer underneath us and retreat did not appear to be an option. So we had to keep it together. There were some tense times and ecstatic relief when we reached the top. Here is a photo, just before we dropped our fixed lines.



So many times, I thought I was going over backwards. After the climb I had a scab on my nose from turning my head to look for my foot holds.

Ken
WBraun

climber
Apr 5, 2008 - 12:19pm PT
Good stuff Ken

So Ken you and me being older and a little wiser now, ..... hummmnn maybe not me being any wiser now.

But anyways .... we can free solo it now, meet me at the base.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
What time Werner? I just found my old chalk bag.

Ken
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