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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 31, 2006 - 11:40pm PT
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Not really. I resized the photos and added some others. I hope that they are a little quicker to download for the people with land lines.
First pitch.
Second pitch.
Jugging fixed lines.
Third pitch.
Right hand variation.
The one and only ledge.
Virgin territory.
Last pitch.
Who is going to get the coveted second ascent or even better the first free ascent of one of the most spectacular routes in the Valley?
Ken
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Ouch!
climber
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Jul 31, 2006 - 11:43pm PT
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That's wild!
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john hansen
climber
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where is that climb.. Royal Arches ,,naw? No clue
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2006 - 12:09am PT
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John,
South Face of Half Dome. Beautiful rock.
Ken
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john hansen
climber
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Ah..Makes sense . Is this really Snake Dike or a real first acent?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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This route is a really creative line on the major south face of Half Dome. It is probably more than a thousand yards to the rt and around the corner from the trade route, Snake Dike, and a few hundred yards to the right of the Rowell-Harding South Face aid route. It follows a truly unique gigantic dike that squiggles and snarles its way up a very steep face for over a 1000 ft, defying other features on the principle back of Half Dome. And it has some points of aid, via bolts. Ken is conveying that, here is a spectacular climb, waiting to be climbed free, that he and Jim Campbell and Dave Schultz did 21 years ago. It is a gift to us, he is saying, go do it.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2006 - 12:20pm PT
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When we did the route I had just had major knee surgery five months previously. Schultz convinced me that the dike was huge and big enough that tourists walked down it from the top to take pictures. It turned out to be steeper than it looked and the dike was larger underneath than on top of it thereby casting a large shadow making the dike look bigger than it actually was. I could hardly use my left leg due to lack of mobility but, this worked out perfectly because most of the route leaned up and right and I didn't have to flex my left knee very much. I have never been so terrified on a route in my life.
Ken
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handsome B
Gym climber
Saskatoon, Saskatchawan
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"I have never been so terrified on a route in my life."
Not much of a salesman eh?
What is the aid like?
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Is that dike's edge as sharp as it looks?! I am tying to imagine a fall pulling your rope tight over that ginsu knife!!!
Baaaad ASS.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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These are the most inspiring climbing pictures I've seen.
Thanks for taking the time to post them.
So, how good do you think the bolts are now? 20-year-old 1/4" buttonheads...
I think I'd carry a kit.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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That thing looks rad.
Rating?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2006 - 12:49pm PT
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I remember the aid being about ten bolts in three or four short sections of A0. I followed one pitch with only one rope and all I could think about was if I fell the rope would rake accross the crystals and I would go plummetting to the base without touching rock. I climbed the rest of the route with double ropes. The route is protected for the leader and not set up for the follower. Dave kept sandbagging me by saying the next section was only 5.9 or 5.10 and after leaving the bolt and getting stuck he would say "Oh yeah there is a little 5.11 move or two and then it gets easier". By then I could not reverse the moves to the previous bolt and was forced to go for it. I am glad I did not fall.
Ken
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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"I am glad I did not fall" Me too. Nice grimace on Shultzi's face -- I'll bet that was an easy drill stance!
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Tahoe climber
climber
Texas to Tahoe
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"How'd y'all get that rope up thar?"
Nice Pix.
-Aaron
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2006 - 04:23am PT
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The South Face of Half Dome has the best rock I have ever seen in Yosemite. It is rarely travelled though I don't know why. It is not a place to be during poor weather and the approach is semi longish by Yosemite standards so that may be the reason. The location is awesome and serene. Saw a peregrine falcon fly upside down with a catch in its talons and pass the catch to its mate flying toward the delivery flying right side up. The mate then went to feed the kids. It was amazing. The falcon would perch every now and then on the rock near us as we were climbing and check us out while bobbing its head.
There are other prizes up there besides Karma as well.
Ken
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 11, 2006 - 05:06am PT
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wow that rock looks crazy!
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Aug 11, 2006 - 08:45am PT
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Didn't Hank Caylor take a wicked fall on an attempt on that one?
I seem to remeber him discribing it as being "dragged behind a pick-up, across a cheese-grater."
Too bad the current trend is to do established stuff in a faster time to have something to spray about in the rags. I would think the self-professed "soul climbers" would prefer to experience the glistening saphire of enlightenment offered by Karma, but since you guys didn't record your "car-to-car" time, there is no record to beat.
Some people pick plums to eat them, and other people pick them to sell to others who can't reach the tree branch.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Aug 11, 2006 - 11:17am PT
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Body & Soul had an ascent by Tracy Dufriend(spelling?) in 1994. I did it with him, and he took a fall at the roof, descended, pulled the rope & went up again & did it. Strong guy he was, did the B&Y too that year. Whatever happened to him?
Hank Caylor took a 70 footer off Southern Belle, which he said was scarier than the fabled B&Y.
Levy
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 11, 2006 - 12:56pm PT
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This must have been quite a special experience.
Each decade held unsung examples which appealed to the grand tradition of boldness.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2006 - 12:09am PT
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I remember talking to Walt after he did Southern Belle with Dave. Walt said that he was totally gripped while on the route and felt pressure on his pitches to really run it out, because Dave was going for it on his.
Walt said he asked Dave how Karma compared to their route when they were near the top and the worst was over. Apparently, Dave just laughed and said Karma is way scarier.
Ken
p.s. When I said prizes, I think I would include anything up there. To me they all look good.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Aug 12, 2006 - 12:51am PT
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"It is rarely travelled though I don't know why"
Cause Captain approaches are way shorter and most people don't want to hike up 6 miles with a pig on them.
I think the rock is stunning. I was up there in May poking around, took a bunch of snaps wondering what was up there. Ken, do you have a bigger pic of the South Face that shows where it goes?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2006 - 12:58am PT
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Flouride,
I do have a picture of the South Face and will attempt to draw the route in. It is pretty obvious when wandering up there.
Ken
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Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
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Aug 12, 2006 - 01:00am PT
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Thanks for the S. Belle story Ken. Hilarious.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2006 - 02:15am PT
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Here you go Fluoride,
The South Face.
The general area.
The route with the right hand variation marked in. The right variation would be the easiest way to go for an ascent. The left variation has more potential to go free.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 10:31pm PT
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The Tigers belly from where the route starts.
The derelicts before we got into this mess.
Ken
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Aug 13, 2006 - 11:49pm PT
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Is that Jim Campbell in the center? Didn't he help with the efforts up there?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
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T2,
Yes, that is Jim. Just saw him and Carol recently they are doing well.
-Ken
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Ken,
Two years on the back pages is enough for this underappreciated thread!! We've had so many junk threads, that I think this one deserves another look what with all the commotion over on the "Growing Up" thread. What an amazing thing you guys did!
What the heck ever happened to Jim Cambell? I climbed the West Face of El Cap in a day with he and Scott Burk back around that time. (1987) We had a ball up there. If you see him, please tell him that Bruce said hello. That's the first photo I've seen of him in twenty years.....amazing.
Who's Iron Monkey??
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Ken, those have to be some of the most amazing photos I've seen, anywhere. Thank you for sharing them with us. We spent a lot of time on the tiger's belly under your route, looking up at that big corner to the right. We've had many a conversation about how amazing that feature and your route are. I would love to someday have the nerves for that thing. That is some zen master sh#t, to be sure. I'm coming up there today to do some long routes in the valley. I'll swing by tonight to say hi.
Ben
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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RE: "Who's Iron Monkey??" = Dave Shultz
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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This is the Topic that should attain 600+ posts.
Thanks Ken!
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L
climber
If only I could remember....
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Wow Ken, those are beautiful and literally quite awe-inspiring photos.
How the hell did you guys keep it together up there???
I'm looking at that dike and thinking, "Any minute, any second...the call of the wild blue yonder is going to end in For Whom the Bells Toll.
You obviously have some good karma going for you. Thanks for sharing the experience.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2008 - 12:10pm PT
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Thank you L,
I am glad you like them.
How the hell did you guys keep it together up there???
After we cast off, the wall got more overhanging and longer underneath us and retreat did not appear to be an option. So we had to keep it together. There were some tense times and ecstatic relief when we reached the top. Here is a photo, just before we dropped our fixed lines.
So many times, I thought I was going over backwards. After the climb I had a scab on my nose from turning my head to look for my foot holds.
Ken
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WBraun
climber
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Good stuff Ken
So Ken you and me being older and a little wiser now, ..... hummmnn maybe not me being any wiser now.
But anyways .... we can free solo it now, meet me at the base.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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What time Werner? I just found my old chalk bag.
Ken
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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"So many times, I thought I was going over backwards. After the climb I had a scab on my nose from turning my head to look for my foot holds."
Those might just be the best words written on climbing in the last year!
Now this may just be base-less chisme, but wasn't Schultz also called "Ultimate Male"? The reference point being that when he went to the WC in the morning and had to force down the pee-rod, he'd actually be front-flipped into the john? If so, that's some mighty powerful core strength.
More interesting tidbits:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=360600&msg=366267#msg366267
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Gene
climber
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The "Tiger's Belly" picture is just plain awesome.
Great thread.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Ken,
refer to my question about Jim Cambell earlier??
Bump!!!!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
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Hi Bruce,
I see Jim about once a year lately. He lives with his wife, Carol in Las Crusces, New Mexico. She works at the university there. I will tell him hi for you next time I see him. I know I have his contact info somewhere and will email it to you when I find it.
Ken
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! Dawggie! Now that's got some serious SSSSSS on it! Bump.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2008 - 04:29pm PT
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Found another photo. This one is on the fourth pitch (pitch #9) of the endless diagonal dike, when the angle starts to subside.
Ken
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Ken,
I know you're holding out on the "secret" photos......
It's good for this to get a fresh look now. If it weren't for that edge and "Too Much Sideways!!" some of it looks downright climbable. Deceiving, I'm sure. I know how some TM routes that looked casual to me from below ended up bein' diaper changers.
Getting Jim's contact info will be cool, I'm moving to Albuquerque....
Buggs, yeah it's got some SSSS on it. Too much for us sufferers.
It would make us gag....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Excellent thread Ken!
It should get somebody fired up once we replace the steel. Sweet looking climbing!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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This should give you some idea of the amount of work. I spent lots of time studying this one from the 93 Reid guide.
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marky
climber
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what CS had to say about the falcon might be the most beautiful thing I've ever seen on the taco
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Bump..
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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bumpity bump.....
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Incredible photos of an absolutely amazing line. The thing to do for the second ascent is to lead it ground-up, replacing the bolts as you go, with the second removing the old bolts and filling the holes with ground granite and epoxy. Also, the leader should have cable runners prepared to lower the protection points below the sharp edge of the dike, as has been suggested That would be a second ascent we could all celebrate. A true homage to the pioneers of a few decades ago. A little safer than the original climb, but safer through ingenuity and cunning, rather than accepting a step-down in style.
-JelloMouthsOff
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jello,
Nice to see you posting on this.
"Cables as was suggested"...ahh you've been keeping an eye on the other thread. Too much of a statesman to leave a mark?...
Thanks Jello
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Right you are Warbler.
Do you see Chapman?
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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Instead of replacing the bolts I think the FFA party should go with about 20 screamers and just do the line as is. Then if it goes replace the bolts on the climb if they feel the need. If it doesn't leave it for the next guy to decide what to do with it.
Once I get my 5.13 slab climbing dialed I'm on this one. I need about 2 more years though ;) (of dreaming...)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The bolts can be replaced from above, in their original holes, by hiking to the top with enough ropes. This is how Roger Brown replaced the bolts on the top section of the Harding route a couple of years ago. I probably don't have to mention that it is a lot of work to carry that many ropes up there and back down, plus all the rapping, jugging, pulling and drilling!
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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I've already talked a bit with Ken about it. I'd love to put in some work on it!
I remember talking with Roger when I was working in the wilderness permit station in the valley and he came in to get a permit for his trip up there.
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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Like I said... Just bring a full set of screamers with you. No need to replace the bolts. Maybe just one per belay on the way up to be safe...
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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With the Ginsu dike below, salivating at the thought of munching your rope, I kinda don't think that the quality of the bolt or presence of a screamer, has a lot to do with the danger.
Maybe we could get tom frost to make us some five foot long power draws.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Ken, since you were on the FA, what do you think of the bolts on the climb? Think they need replacing before (or during) a 2nd? Do you remember the type of hardware on the climb (SS hangers?, button heads, yadda yadda).
TIA
PS. Nice running into you at P&J's yesterday...
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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I think the point really is... Don't fall.
How about just lead on double lines AND use screamers.
But don't rebolt or fix some permanent crazy 5ft draws on the climb just so a bold line with no repeats may see another one sooner.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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The least invasive style of retrofitting doesn't seem that awful. "Don't fall" is a good place to start, being ballsy and having some long fall hazard is one thing, but an actual person getting the chop is worse than fixing it up a bit.
Edit: Wow, thanks Kevin. Your post surprised me. I know the difficulty of getting back into it. I've struggled a bit myself. As long as his hitching is going well, I guess that's a starting point. I hope to see him sometime.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
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Someone asked about the bolts on Karma and it has been asked several times before. It has been a long time and my memory might not be completely accurate but, this is what I remember.
We used three types of ¼” bolts. We had compression bolts (buttonhead and or screwtops), taper locks, and machine bolts. We were poor and collected whatever we could find at the time. All of the pitches, except for the first two and the 4th and 10th, have three bolts at the anchors (usually one of each type because we had a limited supply and we figured one of them would hold). If you go the left hand variation which has the best chance of going totally free I think there are 67 bolts total counting anchors and 17 bolts for aid (not 180). 15 aid bolts and 25 bolts for anchors leaving 25 bolts for protecting the free climbing in 13 pitches. There is an occasional cam placement in a pocket once in a while though pretty rare and there are a few short crack sections. For the most part it is very exposed face climbing and terrifying to me because of the traversing nature.
I imagine the bolts are not in great shape after 22 years and probably need to be replaced. In fact they probably should have been replaced after we did the route. I talked with Dave and Jim last year and we all hope someone will repeat it and fix the route up. None of us appears to have the time and energy or desire to go back and do this. I think once was enough for us. I can still close my eyes and feel the fear, maybe it was terror.
The route is protected for the leader and not the follower. Dave and I think that should change and I bet Jim does too. I would like to see a few added and maybe a few removed keeping the count about the same. Talk to Dave, myself and Jim if you are interested in going up there and maybe it could be made better so that it gets done. The route has a very good chance of going totally free.
It is by far the wildest and most beautiful climb I have ever been on and is an experience I will cherish forever. Schultz really laid it on the line on this one. My only regret is that others haven’t been able to enjoy this climb yet. I hope that changes.
Ken
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It sounds like it would be a formidable job for a public spirited person to replace all the bolts from above - unless you had a lot of friends willing to help with the project. But perhaps very worthwhile - the knowledge that the fixed anchors were reliable might attract more climbers. Even though there still aren't many bolts, and the falls, even with extenders and other razor-avoidance tactics, would still be terrifying.
I suppose it wouldn't be 'ethical' for someone to first replace the bolts on rappel, then climb the route. Whether they could be replaced on lead (by anyone) without making a mess is another question.
Would modern protection gadgetry and tricks help at all?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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It would sure be a serious job.
I would love to see that trip report almost as much as I've enjoyed this thread!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2008 - 12:03am PT
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Mighty Hiker,
I think it would be very difficult to re-use the same holes on the lead. I don't think modern gear would help much, other than a few pockets there is only about 50 feet of crack climbing in 2,000 feet of climbing.
As far as the sharp crystals go, I thought of using slings wrapped with fire hose to extend them over the dike (after the climb). During the climb we realized we did not bring near enough slings. The wire slings is a great idea and just go for the ride if you have to. We were well aware of what the consequences could be if someone fell and fortunately no one did.
Ken
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there survival and warbler... say, my brother, chappy, he is home now, or was... but i think he may be heading back to PRAGUE soon... (oh, my... is that how you spell it?).... '
my mom says that there is some work or something, that had to be ?redone?----i will call him tomorrow night... and see if he can say "hey there" to you all....
or, at best, i will post a fast "hey there" or something... as you have asked before, and i have not gotten hold of him...
sure, enough, i miss him....
i have two wedding pics... but i would not post, as i know he would prefer to do that on his own....
he has been veryyyyyyyyyy busy, though...
he has his first anniversary coming up----APRIL 21ST
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Ken,
Thanks for continuing to include your thoughts on this thread. It is just so much more relevant when the main players are part of the conversation. Did you take turns being in the middle of the team and having a belay from both sides? Surely one person didn't have to bring up the tail every pitch.... That would have been as horrifying as leading and infinitely more stressful than being in the middle. What did you guys do?
neebee,
Tell your brother that we're talking about him, and that we'll be looking for him at the facelift in September!
Timely bump, I love it when this thread and "Growing Up" are next to each other on the list....
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2008 - 08:40am PT
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Bruce,
I had just gotten over knee surgery and wasn't in the best climbing shape but went along for the ride. I went last on all the traversing pitches but one. Some of the bolts I lowered off of and others I probably should have. I freed what I could at the time. The one pitch that I didn't go last on, I did have a belay from both sides and was able to free it.
Ken
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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I will be in the Valley in the next couple weeks, then back again in July and probably back for another trip end of summer if the funds hold out.
If you need a pack mule to haul ropes, pull bolts or anything of that nature let me know, I'd be happy to help out anyway that I can. Just send me an email.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
here to eternity
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Mar 24, 2009 - 12:42am PT
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I just inadvertently reread this one a second time (in conjunction with coz's tale of Southern Belle) and it's just as good the second time around.
Holy cojones, the south face of Half Dome is one wild and beautiful place! Y'all have done some wonderful, rare and exceptional things here. Thanks for sharing that. Maybe in my next lifetime I will even approach just thinking about doing routes like these.
Eric
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
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Mar 24, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Ken - Is the giant diagonal dike hand traversed at all ? (and) Was a 'direct start' from the right-leaning arch lower down ever considerred - or do you see the ledge approach/start as important to the route ? These are great pictures . Thanks for posting them . BtW : Are bigger files of these images (still) accessable ?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 24, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Bump for badass razor-dikes!!! (Not a lesbian meth biker club)
First page for the money-shots. Is that last pic unprotocted to where the climber is? I'm scared!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 25, 2009 - 07:14am PT
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hey there, say, thanks for the bump... i had not seen this... very good stuff here...
thanks...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
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ß Î Ø T Ç H asked "Ken - Is the giant diagonal dike hand traversed at all ?"
Only one pitch where it was slightly overhanging. This was the one through the black streak. We called it the Yardarms. Dave and I almost got taken out on that pitch by rockfall. A giant rock came down and hit the slab above us and broke into about 20 pieces varying in size from basketballs to refrigerators. I vividly remember the wind and the shadows on the rock as they traveled past our heads with Dave and I looking at each other white eyed and wondering if this was it. The slight overhang saved our lives.
"Was a 'direct start' from the right-leaning arch lower down ever considered - or do you see the ledge approach/start as important to the route ?"
We were trying to find the easiest way to the long diagonal dike. It is an intimidating piece of granite and it was a giant expanse of unexplored rock. We thought that once we got to the dike the route wouldn't be too bad. We were wrong. It seemed like a big enough project starting from the ledge.
"Are bigger files of these images (still) accessable ? "
I have the original slides probably about 60 of them. I haven't taken the best care of them over the years. When I scanned them I was just learning how and playing around with Photoshop. I could do a better job now with some time.
bluering asked " Is that last pic unprotected to where the climber is?"
Sure looks like it. The last three pitches to the top seemed so straightforward and were quite a bit easier that a lot of pro didn't seem needed. I remember only one piece per pitch. We were ready to get the heck out of there. It looks like you could get more pro than is in the picture. We did not have small cams at the time and I don't even remember bringing pitons. There was less than 50 feet of crack climbing on the left variation in about 2,000 feet of climbing.
Ken
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Mar 25, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
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Bump for great pics and stories
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mankymonkey
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 28, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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Someday, someday... The south face of Hame Dome sure has some strong mojo...
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mankymonkey
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 28, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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Ken - All the bolts are above the dike, save for the Yardarms pitch? Seems like hand traversing could help protect the follower... is that even feasible?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 28, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
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Bump this again. Ken, awesome tale!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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Mankymonkey,
The Yardarms seemed to be the only pitch that seemed logical for hand traversing. You may be able to hand traverse more of it but may have problems getting back up onto it to rest. The wall under the dyke is overhanging and smooth(not much for the feet)and it throws a big shadow making the dyke look bigger from below. All the bolts are above the dyke even on the Yardarms pitch though they are just above it on that pitch. Following or leading, our main concern was having the rope rake over the crystal coated edge and cutting, it wouldn't have mattered whether we were hand traversing or not. Lengthening the bolts with slings or cable runners would alleviate that problem. At least you won't hit anything underneath the dyke though it would be a terrifying ride.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2009 - 01:58am PT
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Isn't it Wednesday?
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....It's like Mars with air
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I missed this the 1st go-round.
RAD.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Yahoo. You two did such a proud line. Good on ya Mate!!
Nice throwing it out there for all to view and savor.
Ken, did ya get that Porter nut I sent?
TC
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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I did Tom,
Thank you,
Ken
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, all...
great bump... i really enjoyed all this, ken and all...
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Wow. Inspiring.
Has this thing gotten a 2nd? The first post is '06. If not it needs to.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
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I guess someone needs to get on up there before the bolts fall out on their own.
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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No fair.....you guys had more soul. More freakin' VISION.
We're just a buncha hacks.Just speakin' for the Royal "We".
That's an outrageous route.
Maybe enlist some of the new blood, those "rad" boys.
Shame 'em, if ya have to.
Maybe they can only climb hard without the dire consequences.
Just sayin'.....
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Aug 10, 2009 - 12:49am PT
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A visionary route.
Clear proof the oldsters were harder.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 10, 2009 - 01:10am PT
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definitely a badass route!
very proud. Those pics are timeless too!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 10, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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So many times, I thought I was going over backwards. After the climb I had a scab on my nose from turning my head to look for my foot holds.
Ken
one for the story books, lads!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 10, 2009 - 02:49am PT
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OMG.....and WOW 1111!!!!and speechless. lynne
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Sep 14, 2009 - 04:42pm PT
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Another bump for the baddest of the bad!!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
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Could this be the year?
Ken
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 29, 2010 - 09:21pm PT
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So many great climbers in the valley, I am sure some have it on rtheir radar.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
from the Leastside
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May 30, 2010 - 03:55am PT
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"I resized the photos and added some others. I hope that they are a little quicker to download for the people with land lines."
I remember the original post with the huge photos , is that still searchable (link please) ?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 14, 2011 - 01:00am PT
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Go back to the first post. Holy.....sh#t....!!!!! Dike-tacular!!!!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 10, 2011 - 02:29am PT
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Cherish the impossible bump.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 23, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
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Bump
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Dec 22, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
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K-man and I had a discussion about this route last night. It seems like no one will go up there because of the questionable bolt situation. We thought you would at least need new belays to make it feasible. And somewhere on here Roger Brown stated that he wouldn't replace bolts there because he wouldn't know which ones to replace. It seems like to head up there to repeat this route you either need new anchors and some lead bolts or a will to just go for it.
We got to thinking when is Honnold gonna have a go at this solo. Seems pretty close to the ultimate climb, Karma 2nd ascent free solo. He wouldn't have to worry about bolt replacement at all.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 22, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
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There's nothing to stop anyone who wants to repeat the route from rappelling down and replacing the anchors first. Perhaps the FA team could advise as to what to expect and do. It seems likely that 95% or more of the bolts would simply need to be pulled and replaced, and if there are any question marks, they could be discussed and decided.
Ideally, there'd be two teams. Team A would rappel and restore (say) Karma, Team B would rappel and restore one of the other long, hard route on that side of Half Dome. They could then switch, and so have true on sight experiences.
It's not like Roger, Clint and friends are the only people who can replace bolts in the Valley.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Dec 22, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
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Since the climb has only been done once, there's no question which bolts
should be replaced (from ASCA standpoint), because they're all original.
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A Schultz
Boulder climber
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I love these pictures
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nopantsben
climber
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Feb 28, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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looks good . . .
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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BBST!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bump for the stuff that's just around the corner.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 20, 2014 - 03:23am PT
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Bump for the Tiger Belly pic on page two, plus the rest of it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 20, 2014 - 04:12am PT
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There's nothing to stop anyone who wants to repeat the route from rappelling down and replacing the anchors first. Perhaps the FA team could advise as to what to expect and do. It seems likely that 95% or more of the bolts would simply need to be pulled and replaced, and if there are any question marks, they could be discussed and decided.
Regarding Anders comment, has anyone been up to check this thing out in the past 5 years? Were the anchors or bolts ever upgraded? It looks like such a fantastic route.
Like, wow. Right?
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Feb 20, 2014 - 07:23am PT
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This route used to bully me like a playground punk. One half dreaded the inevitable peril it was being forced into while the other plotted in naive frenzy. As a micro stick-man pimping delicate ink lines, I had that topo wired from start to finish. It was down to a few minor details like real balls and a neanderthal to follow the traverse pitches . . . the latter was unfortunately coming together.
The stressed out fantasy ended when I decided to hiatus climbing in Yosemite for awhile. Though I haven't been back since 2006 following an utterly comical stab at Iron Hawk, I still greatly revere Karma with nervous reticence. Not something I'd place on a mantle, but you guys deserve the golden balls award.
Tremendous effort and achievement.
Abe
(And thanks for the revised and added pictures, awesome!)
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Feb 20, 2014 - 10:42am PT
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What an amazing thread! Ken, your photos are inspirational. Thanks.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Feb 20, 2014 - 12:28pm PT
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Climbs like these are neat and there are some of us (but not many) trying to keep them alive, Clint and Roger,and Greg being the primary (and in most cases,only)preservationists. To add just a bit to what Clint says, it also seems like the FAist's want to see the replacement done ground up which also adds to the complexities that Clint mentioned and may be why Roger didn't replace. I have set ropes on old climbs for Roger and Clint on climbs that have harder access (i.e. diagonaling slabs hard to access from the top)like Karma by leading them on the old bolts, replacing the anchors, and then rapping to replace as above posters mentioned. And this is rare enough (and in my opinion a most ethical way so far) but to replace and re-drill on lead on site is a whole other world and is almost unheard of.
The FA team had to drill from sketchy stances but at least they were using 1/4"ers which are far easier to drill. Add having to pull bolts from those stances and then re-drill 3/8" by hand adds to the already daunting task outlined by Clint. The best way to replace Karma is as Clint says. Drop a long line from the top and replace. I would be happy to replace with Clint and Roger provided the FA team gives the go ahead because I highly doubt anyone wants to spend the time if Roger and Clint don't.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 20, 2014 - 01:28pm PT
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Hah, that's funny - when I asked Bachar about replacing You Asked For It, he said "You gotta do it ground up!" Then a minute later, he said "Just kidding, just make sure to do a good job." In the end Drew wanted to do it, and so Bachar ended up getting what he wanted! Drew got the last 1/4" lead, and only the second lead with a bolt kit (this time with 3/8" bolts, tuning fork & removal gear)…then he delivered the original bolts to Bachar in Mammoth (and I think Bachar gave them to Dave at MMS?).
I've replaced plenty of bolts ground-up. Sometimes it's by far the easiest way, but it is also a good strategy to end up with new bolt holes instead of reusing the hole. Worked fine on Urioste routes in Red Rocks where every bolt needed a new hole (1/4" stud bolts which would snap no matter what), but it's super unfortunate when you end up drilling a new hole instead of reusing the old one.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Feb 20, 2014 - 02:47pm PT
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The low res pictures don't do justice to the high res ones. Holy crap I got physically scared looking at the high res pics.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Feb 20, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
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Good stuff Greg. And as Clint points out, look how many are clamoring to get on climbs like "you asked for it" now that it's been rebolted. I'm willing to lug ropes up and replace the climb if you Clint and Roger are willing and the FA team ok's rap replacement, otherwise It won't get replaced. I don't care whether your Honnold or Joe gym climber, onsiting over an old aluminum hanged 1/4" spinner from 1970 looking at a 50 footer on 5.10 slab levels the playing field. Getting on 12 + and hanging on old crap in the aid section traversing? You'd be better off soloing it then taking the chance of body weighting that crap.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Man, that is a beautiful chunk of rock!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Bump this one too - much more info here.
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Scylax
Trad climber
Idaho
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There are climbing pics and then
there are CLIMBING pics. These are of the latter variety. They make me feel as if I am on that wall myself.
Bravo!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Seeing these pics always gives me the heebeejeebies thinking about the long pendulum rope-slicer.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 24, 2018 - 09:26pm PT
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High interest bump...
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| Messages 1 - 122 of total 122 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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both hard free climbing and multiple aid sections (this discourages both free climbers and aid climbers)
Let us know!