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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Thanks Greg!
I think so far my all-time Gorge favorites are Expressway, Hardly Wallbanger and The Light Within. But there are so many good ones...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Gorgeous was my first Gorge route, and will be my all time fave if asked I think.
Next would be several routes that come to mind right now not sure I can sort them out in priority.
I enjoyed Mal al a Gorge a lot.
Pick Pocket I think is the name? North Gorge area. 5.10ish IIRC.
Sendero Luminoso as I climbed it at the end of the day and anyone that has done that at that time knows what happens. Very fun.
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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In the 10a catagory...lava haul.
It's the only climb I know that has:
a slab
a mantle
a layback
a hand crack
a dihedral
I always do it when I'm in the upper gorge....never a line...totally fun. Definitely worth more than the 2 or 3 stars it's given.
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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Favorite hard(er) route:
Flashflood 12b: Classic sport climbing moves especially the flag move at the crux.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Some of my favorites are actually link-ups, but require gear and/or runouts:
5.9 - start Sweet & Sour, then right up runout but easy face to join Welcome to the Gorge, then clip the first bolt on Pulp Friction and go to the anchor of Sweet & Sour. Need a 70 to lower off.
5.10a - link Fear of a Black Planet into Z Dong, use shoulder-length draws for most of Fear, and bring lots of 0.75 camalot size pieces (for pockets and for the crack).
5.10a/b - link PG-13 into Warning Signs (all bolts, but use long sling on 2nd-to last bolt on PG-13, skip the anchor, and skip the first bolt you get to on Warning Signs, so it's kind of runout).
Crusher, another fun 5.9 is one we put up a couple years ago, right of Environmental Terrorist - Nuke the Whales (anyone remember the classic bumperstickers - Nuke the Gay Baby Whales for Christ?). Definitely not in the best-of-Owens list, but fun. Also, in case you didn't notice it in the 2005 guide, Flex Your Bazooka (a Forkash route) is another worthy 5.9, just don't fall before the first bolt (30' of loose 3rd/4th to a couple 5th class moves to the bolt).
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Anybody have any photos?
I've never made it out here before. So far, it's been too hard to convince myself to drive through tuolumne or the valley without stopping.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Thanks Greg!
Hey last time we were up there we helped haul some planks across the river to the base of the China Wall. Actually by the end of the weekend all the planks had been brought over. Do you know what someone was making/doing?
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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I always like
Lava Haul 5.10 something
George Bush " "
Melts in Your Mouth .10c
what's this guide gona be? "ORG SELECT"
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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How can you guys tell the routes apart?
Tom
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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Towering Inferno
From Chocolate to Morphine
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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This thread needs a photo :
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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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snapping pussy doll was taken from a porn mag we found at Strassman's house called
"triple play" it was a special order item!
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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May 13, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
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"crusher, it's just left of "3B.A." in the Pop Tart area (go to Social Platform and hike left). Jeff told me the name one time at Whiskey Creek, but I forgot to note it down. It's 12 bolts I think, and you need a 70m to lower off unless you scramble up to the top of the 3rd class. Watch out for cacti to the left when you pull the rope".
Greg we did this finally, last weekend. Jeff was actually there too - had just done it. Really nice, fun climb. Very dirty on the ledge so I belayed Mr. C from the bushes bec. I didn't want to slip off. Your description is right on. Rock was great and not greasy. A little dihedral, a little arete, a crack at the top even! Although I think it's the to the right of 3BA (that's the 10c, right? We didn't have time to do it).
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