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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 7, 2003 - 09:41pm PT
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What are your favorite climbs there?
I'm compiling a list for an Eastern Sierra Climbing guidebook.
The list so far is below.
Is there any more routes that people think I should add to this list?
all the best.......Mick
5.6
Clip Jr
5.7
Crotalulsley Challanged
5.8
Crowd Pleaser, Babushka
5.9
Welcome To The Gorge, Child Of Light, Heart Of The Sun, Don’t Look Down, Gangsta Lean
5.10a
Abitarot, Fear Of A Black Planet, Tsing Tao, Extreme Caffeine
5.10b
Show Us Your Tits, Sendero Luminosa, Don’t Look Up, Machine Gun Jumblies, Post Partum, Gorgeous
5.10c
Members Only, Cajun Barbeque, Melts In Your Mouth
5.10d
Love Stinks, Hardly Wallbanger, Peking Duck, Blood Sugar Sex Magik
5.11a
Crash Landing, O.R.G.asm, Walk The Yellow Line, Pick Pocket, Escapade
5.11b
Hungover, Expressway, Mandarin Orange, The Towering Inferno, Grindrite, Knucko's Pride Of The North, C'mon Knucko, Pop Goes The Weasel
5.11c
Menance To Sobriety, Lalaland, Venom, Ya Should'a Killed Me Last Year, Flex Your Head, Caldera, Thumbs Up, DWP
5.11d
From Chocolate To Morhine, Dr.Claw, Probation Violation, Sex, Pumping Groundwater
5.12a
Darshan, Hard Copy, Black Hole, Thieves In The Temple, Klingon, Sex Packets, Bazooka Country, Tower Line
5.12b
Enterprise, Pirahna, Flashflood
5.12c
Cry Baby, Gape Index, Loony Binge, Phasers On Stun, Faith No More, Baby Please
5.12d
Excelsior
5.13a
Hocus Pocus
5.13b
Shocker, Looney Tunes, Fight Club
5.13c
Sneak
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Salami
Trad climber
Dublin, CA
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Upper Gorge (Gorgeous Towers)
Giveaway 5.9
Gorgeous 5.10a (not sure it's a 10b like you say)
Gorge and Purge 5.12.a (seemed very R possible X)
Central Gourge (Negress Wall)
James Brown 5.11b
(Pub Area)
Light Within 5.10c
(Social Platform)
Bone Up 5.10d
(China Wall)
Heart of the sun 5.9
Yellow Peril 5.10b
Kung Pow 5.11.b
Gesha Girl 5.11c
(Solarium)
Morning Wood 5.10d
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BCD
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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I think Marty Lewis has done an exceptional job rating the quality of the ORG routes. From my experience, all of the 4-5 star routes are worthy of mention. Particularly those bolted cracks like Dr Evil, Superfly, and ORGasm. Gotta love bolted cracks!
Wait a minute. Wasn't that Eastern Sierra guidebook supposed to come out last spring?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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IMHO:
The Light Within is the best .10c
Crash Landing is so NOT .11a (.10c/d)
Excelcior is very reach dependent, wild climb but hard to recommend
Gorge and Purge is no R or X. Take a couple 3/4 - 1 inch cams.
Superfly. Fantastic 10.c
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Mike
climber
Orange County CA
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What about Snapping Pussy Doll? Shouldn't it be included just because of the name?
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dave
climber
Oceanside
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Aug 11, 2003 - 02:37pm PT
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What is a "snapping pussy doll" anyways? Sounds like only a name I want to encounter!
Mick, do you always have to re-invent the wheel? Marty has done a fine job with quality ratings!
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oohrahbishop
Sport climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 11, 2003 - 04:05pm PT
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-Bazooka Country (12a) is not that great since the top crux broke. It's probably still cool if you have like a 6' 4" reach but for most of us it's not so fun.
-Shocker (13b) is not that great. It's contrived, glued and artificially run-out after the really short crux section. Bloodsport (13b) is a much better route for the same grade.
- Peking Peril (11a) (Peking Duck (10d) linked into the top half of Yellow Peril (10b)) is my favorite line on the China Wall.
- Pumping Groundwater (11d) is not that great. It just doesn't measure up in any way to DWP Direct (11d), DWP (11c) or Flashflood (12a/b) on the same formation.
- Fear of a Black Planet (10a) has many shite loose blocks. It's just a way to get to the good second pitch.
- Towering Inferno is only truly great for the first two pitches. The quality of the rock and the climbing degrade quickly after the second pitch.
P.S. Hardly Wallbanger is 10c.
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Mike Martyr
climber
Sunny Slopes, California
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Aug 22, 2003 - 01:25pm PT
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Bazooka Country is still a great route and 12a if you step right at the 6th bolt clip hold, where you used to go up. Tom is of course correct, going up is much harder and sharp. I think it still belongs with the 5* routes.
Thumbs up is easier than 11c and not sustained enough to get top rating
-replace with Santana/Abraxas, one of the best long pitches around, despite the mid-sation.
Nice call on You Should've killed me Last year, a tough, high quality route. Highball is better than Menace..
Pumping Groudwater isn't among the best routes in the Gorge and
Probation Violation isn't 11d or 5*, maybe 11b 3*
-replace those two with Romulan Roof and Maybe the "Redone" Ned Guys or the still "cleaning up" Power.
Towerline is very reach dependent and has a big sit down ledge before the crux section.
Flashflood is a Great route but easier than Enterprise and Piranah,
-add Badthing and Penguin to this group for sure
Help on the way, Steelmonkey, maybe Bushfire are better than Faith No More
Excelsior's moves are more "Long" than "reachy" and its in a class by its self at this grade. Good Thing may rank here too but I haven't sent it so I don't know.
Aurora seemes like a 5* route, but I've only been on it a couple times and haven't sent it
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dodangler
Trad climber
truckee
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Aug 22, 2003 - 09:13pm PT
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Black Chicks in heat 10a
Yellow Peril 10b
Valley 5.8 10b
Hardly Wallbanger 10c
Focus 11a
Towering inferno 11a
photon torpedo 11b
You have been nothing but trouble since the first day I laid eyes on you;your like a thorn in my side;.......11b. Because of the name.
Great idea for a new guide? Milk the sh#t out of the East-Side there Mick!
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2003 - 05:26pm PT
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"Mick, do you always have to re-invent the wheel? Marty has done a fine job with quality ratings! "
He has indeed Dave. And not only that he deserves a long service medal for his devoted duty to documenting activity in the Gorge.
But competition and choice is good. But surely there's no harm in re-assessing the ratings...both difficulty and quality.
The wheel needs modernizing.
Mick
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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retro bump
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Warning Signs, .10d
Amazingly fun letter boxes/
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Pretty good list Mick, but when did Looney Binge jump to .13? not that I ever got through it without taking a biscuit.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jaybro, take a closer look at Looney Binge versus Looney Tunes
Mick, that new long 5.9 left of "3B.A." that Jeff Neer put up is easily one of the best 5.9's in the Gorge in my opinion - technical stemming, overhung arete, crack. Don't know the name, it went up just after the last guide came out.
Pumping the Slots is a good one for best 5.8 (never seemed like 5.9), but requires trad gear...
Hardly should be 10c, I can lead that when I can't touch most 10c's. Perched can take its place in the 10d list.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Thanks Greg. Checked Mtn Project, I Was thinking of Looney Binge, on the eldorado roofs, ORG. So that's .13 now?
It's a gimmee for the grade, line up now.
It Is a quality route, though.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Greg where is this new .9? Sounds cool...
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jay, look at Mick's list, Looney Binge is 12c, Looney Tunes is Croft's horizontal roof crack which goes directly to the anchor of Binge.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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crusher, it's just left of "3B.A." in the Pop Tart area (go to Social Platform and hike left). Jeff told me the name one time at Whiskey Creek, but I forgot to note it down. It's 12 bolts I think, and you need a 70m to lower off unless you scramble up to the top of the 3rd class. Watch out for cacti to the left when you pull the rope.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Wow - the slabs are woefully absent here!
10d - Berlin Wall
11d - Nectar
12a - Me So Horny,Return to Forever,Go Back Where You Came From
12b - Malcolm X
12c - Electric Vex
13a - Desire
Prettiest Route - Excelsior *
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Yikes, now i get it, Greg, I looked at the wrong tunes, Carry on.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Thanks Greg!
I think so far my all-time Gorge favorites are Expressway, Hardly Wallbanger and The Light Within. But there are so many good ones...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Gorgeous was my first Gorge route, and will be my all time fave if asked I think.
Next would be several routes that come to mind right now not sure I can sort them out in priority.
I enjoyed Mal al a Gorge a lot.
Pick Pocket I think is the name? North Gorge area. 5.10ish IIRC.
Sendero Luminoso as I climbed it at the end of the day and anyone that has done that at that time knows what happens. Very fun.
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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In the 10a catagory...lava haul.
It's the only climb I know that has:
a slab
a mantle
a layback
a hand crack
a dihedral
I always do it when I'm in the upper gorge....never a line...totally fun. Definitely worth more than the 2 or 3 stars it's given.
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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Favorite hard(er) route:
Flashflood 12b: Classic sport climbing moves especially the flag move at the crux.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Some of my favorites are actually link-ups, but require gear and/or runouts:
5.9 - start Sweet & Sour, then right up runout but easy face to join Welcome to the Gorge, then clip the first bolt on Pulp Friction and go to the anchor of Sweet & Sour. Need a 70 to lower off.
5.10a - link Fear of a Black Planet into Z Dong, use shoulder-length draws for most of Fear, and bring lots of 0.75 camalot size pieces (for pockets and for the crack).
5.10a/b - link PG-13 into Warning Signs (all bolts, but use long sling on 2nd-to last bolt on PG-13, skip the anchor, and skip the first bolt you get to on Warning Signs, so it's kind of runout).
Crusher, another fun 5.9 is one we put up a couple years ago, right of Environmental Terrorist - Nuke the Whales (anyone remember the classic bumperstickers - Nuke the Gay Baby Whales for Christ?). Definitely not in the best-of-Owens list, but fun. Also, in case you didn't notice it in the 2005 guide, Flex Your Bazooka (a Forkash route) is another worthy 5.9, just don't fall before the first bolt (30' of loose 3rd/4th to a couple 5th class moves to the bolt).
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Anybody have any photos?
I've never made it out here before. So far, it's been too hard to convince myself to drive through tuolumne or the valley without stopping.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Thanks Greg!
Hey last time we were up there we helped haul some planks across the river to the base of the China Wall. Actually by the end of the weekend all the planks had been brought over. Do you know what someone was making/doing?
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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I always like
Lava Haul 5.10 something
George Bush " "
Melts in Your Mouth .10c
what's this guide gona be? "ORG SELECT"
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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How can you guys tell the routes apart?
Tom
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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Towering Inferno
From Chocolate to Morphine
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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This thread needs a photo :
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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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snapping pussy doll was taken from a porn mag we found at Strassman's house called
"triple play" it was a special order item!
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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May 13, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
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"crusher, it's just left of "3B.A." in the Pop Tart area (go to Social Platform and hike left). Jeff told me the name one time at Whiskey Creek, but I forgot to note it down. It's 12 bolts I think, and you need a 70m to lower off unless you scramble up to the top of the 3rd class. Watch out for cacti to the left when you pull the rope".
Greg we did this finally, last weekend. Jeff was actually there too - had just done it. Really nice, fun climb. Very dirty on the ledge so I belayed Mr. C from the bushes bec. I didn't want to slip off. Your description is right on. Rock was great and not greasy. A little dihedral, a little arete, a crack at the top even! Although I think it's the to the right of 3BA (that's the 10c, right? We didn't have time to do it).
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