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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 30, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
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On second thought, I guess my real first first ascent was the Bolt Ladder route on Mount Diablo back in 1968-69.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Sep 30, 2015 - 05:33pm PT
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My First Route Lesson Learned 5.11b 1989, Devils Punchbowl.. Steeper than it looks.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Sep 30, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
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Wow, I had to break out the record book to remind me.
My very first FA was on the diatomaceous earth cliff at the NW end of Upper Newport Bay. I led a mixed route 5.6 A2 with Mike Raab, my best friend in high school. This was in Jan. 1974. In retrospect it was more like modern A3+ as no single piece would have held much more than bodyweight.
The second was the first pitch of Magical Mystery Tour at Tahquitz with Matt Cox in 7/74. In 9/74 Mike Graham and Matt Cox and I did the first 3 on MMT, 5.10 A3. One week later "Rubidoux" Jim Wilson and I repeated the first 3. Soon after that Matt and Tobin Sorenson "stole" the FA of the complete route.
Full Frontal Nudity 5.10b which RV and I did in 1-2/76 (and mentioned up-thread) was my 12th or 13th FA.
For many of us climbing FA's had less (but not nothing) to do with "ego" but just the desire to touch rock that no other humans had touched. In the 20th century what other venue was more suited to the pioneering spirit?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 30, 2015 - 09:50pm PT
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My very first FA was on the diatomaceous earth cliff at the NW end of Upper Newport Bay.
Whoa, that's some kind of sickness. That shizz makes the White Cliffs of Dover
look solid!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 30, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
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If you can remember your 1st FA, you weren't there....especially if it was in the 60's.
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john bald
climber
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Hi Guy,
Funny that you mentioned Energy Crisis. Those were the days. We all climbed with each other as the opportunity came our way. Did several early climbs there with Mike Pope and crew.
I distinctly remember leading the first pitch of Energy Crisis with Dean belaying. You led the second. Mike was not with us that day.
Likewise, I recall waiting at the pumps in order to fill up the tank.
Thanks for the memories!
Cheers, John Bald
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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I distinctly remember leading the first pitch of Energy Crisis with Dean belaying. You led the second. Mike was not with us that day.
Hi, John... OK my bad, Now that you have jogged the old memory... You are correct. It was you who got me motivated to go and do new routes, cause thats what you did all the time.
I guess Donini is correct.
As Dee says, those were the days. I remember when Matt and Tobin walked down to Humber park in the early evening, great big shiteating grins on their faces, dirty and tired and announced "we freed magical mystery tour ..."
I was never out climbing for my ego, it was all for the adventure, heck we never even turned in any FA information cause there was nobody to give it to till Randy started collecting info.
IIRC... you moved up North and started tearing up the unknown climbing by Mt. Shasta
remember these guys?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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A maybe more relevant question for this crowd....when was your LAST first ascent or, even, when was your last ascent?
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Last FFA last week.. At Your Own Risk 10c or 11a Ground Up. Tunnels. With Batrock.
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john bald
climber
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Guy nice pic from back then
Jim yes, some of us still get out
Jeffery hope to hit the Tunnels next time I'm down there
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Good one Jeff..... you will need to point that one out to me.
To answer Jims Q... about two years ago, out in the desert.
Yafer and I did "Rust Never Sleeps" 10a and the "Aunanique" 10a (I can't remember his spelling for a ancient alien race, that raised humans as workers.... a ship crash landed on earth, we are the survivors...)
We rap bolted these suckers into some cool limestone/marble at a place that is yet to be disclosed......
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