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Ljohnson
Social climber
The land of ice, snow and rocks
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 14, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
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This has made the rounds a few times, but was your first, first ascent any good?
All of mine are total piles- at best, a couple are worthy of second ascents if someone has nothing better to do. Most fall in to the "I wouldn't recommend it my worst enemy category."
My point is, out of the climbers BITD with more rock and bigger balls at their disposal, were your first-first ascents any good?
(This message is endorsed by the keep it on-topic, on the first page movement.)
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Golf Wall, CO
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Dec 14, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
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Mine was worth doing again. And recommending to friends. A bit run out, but later on someone added another bolt with my permission, so I think it's pretty popular now.
And then I got into the crappy, chossy, don't-bother-unless-you-like-to-be-scared first ascents...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 14, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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Pervertical Sanctuary
Haven't repeated it, but I think some have.
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BBA
climber
OF
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Dec 14, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Coonyard, and it was good. Fun and lasting. I can still see that first pitch above Monday Morning Slab. I thought it was incredible no one had climbed there before as it was so easy on the brain and body compared with the classic Steck Salathe of Sentinel.
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Dec 14, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
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My first 1st Ascent started out as a short practice solo-aid session back in the late '70's. I was living in the Valley and had wall aspirations, so went looking for a place where I could practice on my own, without a bunch of people watching me flail. I found an interesting, short dihedral over by Mirror Lake and commenced to figuring out how to aid-climb with a prussic system. From the top of the corner, maybe 70 feet up (if I remember correctly), I rapped and cleaned the munge out of the crack and it looked like it might be kinda fun as a free climb so I returned a few days later with a buddy and free-climbed it at 5.9. Top-roped a face climb to the right too.
I mentioned it to Don Reid and didn't think much more of it until I saw it printed in his yellow Yosemite Climbs guide listed as Eric's Book and Thin Man. I climbed there a few more times and it turned out to be a pretty fun little area!
Eric Barrett
Spokane WA
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Dec 14, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
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Southwest Face, Mt Lyell July 1963, age 14 along with other youths, Dennis Schmidt, Vern Muhr, led by Les Wilson. II 5.6
Choss heap of course but amazing place.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 14, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
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Spiders from Mars 5.9 A2+ 1986 it has since been freed by Zeb Jacobs @ 5.11d scary. went unrepeted for 10 years has been done maybe 6 times total. with 3 or 4 of those ascents by myself. Yea, It's a pile ;)
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 14, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
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We had this 170' granite cliff located about 5 miles from my high school, so logically I would skip days worth of classes to explore it. This was my fourth lead ever; and the first of 8 or so FAs that we put up that year and the next. Due to access concerns the cliff sat unexplored until 2011, when a crew of friends secured access and began putting up new routes to fill in the blanks. Of the 65 routes on the cliff, I have about 25 FAs.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 14, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
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My first first-ascent that got recorded was Danny Gore out at Joshua Tree in 1968. It was 5.6/A3....now 5.11. I have not been back there to free it! I remember the shaky block almost like it was yesterday. Free-climbing it with cams probably wouldn't make it budge. It got its name because I banged a finger and was dripping blood straight down onto my belayer Joe Brown.
My best known early first ascents would be those at the Needles in California; 1st ascent of Warlock, 1st ascent of Voodoo Dome; Pea Soup, first ascent of the Magician; Sidewalk Magic, and Hermit Spire. I wrote a story here at ST about being in on the 1st ascent of the east face of Mt Powell. Story is on this page;
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2072695&tn=20
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life is a bivouac
Trad climber
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Dec 14, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
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Hi all, As a So. Cal. boy I grew up at Stoney... I did quite a few Firsts there, which were all nailing back then, and are pretty much free climbed now... One sunny and bright blue day, I think it was 1965, I soloed a first ascent on a block in the back of Stoney with four or maybe five placements; it's now known as the Yabo Arete. Another I was pretty jazzed about was the Patio to Coonyard traverse. Then bigger still was the N. E. face of Mt. Brewer. Those still put smiles on my face...
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Dec 14, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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not totally sure of the date/time…
But in Bishop Ca., Happy Boulders has a little trail on an off the desk piece of rock I called "High Anxiety" V1-2…
Set on a ships prow type boulder just south of the more water less power area, to the left…
I used to look at it and wonder why not… Then I helped clean it up and sent it…
Not sure how many (if any) sends it has seen.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 14, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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HA!! Speaking of piles, my first was nearly the end of me. A no-nothing teen trying to emulate the mountaineers he was reading about in library books.
I took a picture of the canyon cliff this summer.
I actually made it without dying!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Dec 14, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
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Shakey Legs, 5.10c at Tollhouse Rock, CA, 1978. It gets 2 out of 3 stars in the latest guidebook and helped usher in ground up first ascents at the area. Thank heavens the locals removed the soft iron pin which protected the crux and replaced it with a solid bolt.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 14, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
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Great to see you folks posting 1st ascents and new routes. I always was at my best on "new-ground."
Idaho climbing ethics are somewhat stern about writting up new routes, since they tend to remove the adventure from what little adventure remains.
I do know that the best adventures of my life were on new routes, and the next-best adventures were on established big-routes, with only a paragraph in a guidebook to describe the route.
So the first, first ascent?
The June Phallis, under Boulder Peak, near Ketchum Idaho in June 1970. Chris, Gordon, & I were very proud.
We did not submit it to the AAJ.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dec 14, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
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Joe Simpson's 1st first ascent didn't go too well. Neither did his 2nd
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 14, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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His first book made up for it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 15, 2013 - 02:52am PT
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I suppose the moki steps i cut to the cliff dwelling my brother and i made when we were kids qualifies.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Dec 15, 2013 - 04:00am PT
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Think it was in the quarry on the north side of Crystal Springs Road between downtown San Mateo and the Crystal Springs Dam when I was 15. Absolutely horrible piece of choss. I was belayed by a friend I dragged over there from Parkside housing project. Yes, I used a white line (not gold line) rope, pins and a tiny piton hammer I bought at Ellingson's Sporting Goods on the El Camino Real.
Very lucky to have survived the experience. Doubt it has ever been repeated.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 15, 2013 - 04:14am PT
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I tried to do a few FAs, but almost every time, I would find a fixed pin or some other evidence of previous endeavors.
I like the First Ascent with conditions, like the first Winter Ascent. Or the first Nude Ascent or the the first toothless ascent with colostomy bag.
So much more creative potential.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Dec 15, 2013 - 07:40am PT
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"Walk and Don't Look Back" at the Rainbow area W of Donner Summit. Drilled off hooks, in imitation of Bachar's style. A move of A0, then nice steep face climbing, 10a or so. Named in memory of Peter Tosh, who was killed shortly before.
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MisterE
climber
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Dec 15, 2013 - 08:40am PT
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DMT - There is a third part you are missing to a good FA, and that is the legacy. Looking back and realizing you made a contribution to the community that will be there long after you are gone.
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jcory86
Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
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Dec 15, 2013 - 11:07am PT
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Does a boulder problem FA count? I put up a 20+ foot v5/6 highball across the river from the quarry in Auburn. We did a ton of work on the landing but the problem is AMAZING!!! very high quality. It will be the gem of the area "the bar" in chris mac's norcal bouldering guidebook when it gets revised. I believe someone has put up a v7 on the right arete of the boulder now. A couple gerat lines!!! The beauty problem is called SHOGUN. I am unsure of what the new v7 is called. go get on it!!!
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clinker
Trad climber
California
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Dec 15, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
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First pitch of Prairie Home Companion 5.7r 1984, Pinnacles National Monument.
Dam proud of it. Haven't climbed it since.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Dec 15, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
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That's not ego?
Yep, but not all ego is bad.
Tough Shiites, 5.6 or 5.7. Pretty easy, except for one small section. The wind is a big factor. At the Sunni Slabs at Christmas Tree Pass.
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clinker
Trad climber
California
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Dec 15, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
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My daughter Rose and nephew Kurtis, The Big Bad West 5.5 Pinns. 1999
My daughter Kate, Cat and Mouse 5.5 Pinns. 1999
Best days ever!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 15, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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BITD Chas Cole set me up with a nice 5/16" hand drill and some button heads. That was a good bit of gear. He also had some straight fluted 3/8" bits turned down to fit the same holder but they kept breaking (at least in my hands.) I practiced with this drill on random rocks until I was competent.
I think the first route I put up, using bolts anyway, was Seamstress on Voyager Rock at Courtright.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Dec 15, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
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1978 more or less.
My first first ascent was of what is surely the worst route on what might be the worst crag in the entire UK. The crag is called Taffs Well. it's a crumbling, overgrown limestone quarry right next to a major highway (and busy railway beyond that).
There was a climb, quite good, a Hard Very Severe (5.8-9) called Cowpoke that ascended to a traverse ledge, where it stopped. Above this was an unclimbed face, 60 feet tall. Youthful stupidity and enthusiasm blinded me to the simple fact that this face was utterly rotten, devoid of protection and ended at a forested jungle of rusty mattresses, trash and assorted bits of underwear, with a few trees.
First try, got 30 feet up, froze in fear. No gear, could not go up, nor down. Facing a BIG fall. I was using double ropes so hatched an escape plan. My partner tied off one rope to the tree he was belayed to, then rappelled with the other, hiked around to the top, threw the other rope down to me. I either toproped the rest or more likely could not as I was utterly exhausted--don't recall now. My partner did toprope it, and that gave me full confidence that I could do it, leading, since at the time I calculated that I was a better climber.
At some point I rappelled it, cleaning the worst, loosest stuff and placing a couple, very bad pitons that I knew would barely hold any weight but I did not really care--they looked cool.
Came back a week or so later, led it. Rated it Hard Very Severe (about 5.8-9). Which was about my leading limit, back then. Second ascent was Pat Littlejohn, who told me the pitons had, maybe, ahem, fallen out, or something....anyway, were gone. And he suggested maybe a modest upgrade to E1 (5.9-5.10a), for the seriousness.
Since then huge swaths of the cliff have been bolted and there are some pretty okay sport routes. I'd be happy for my route to be bolted, make it not so much a death lead.
Currently, apparently it's now rated E3 (5.10+). far above what I thought I could lead (or even follow), back then. Which says something of my own stupidity at that time and Pat LIttlejohn's own quietly ruthless undergrading style.
Huge thanks to my partner, Howard Nicholls, who patiently put up with all these shenanigans And took the photos.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 15, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
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Doesn't anyone have a copy of the article Doug Robinson wrote sometime in the 70s encouraging people to just climb and skip the reporting part? I bring this up from time to time. I remember when the reporting of new routes became epidemic. This may be why he wrote that. Sure would be cool if Doug could post it.
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clinker
Trad climber
California
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Dec 15, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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Dear Dingus,
We are the "New Natives". Just as we enshrine, protect, and try to understand the meaning of ancient graffiti, future peoples may look in wonder at evidence of our passage.
Please leave the compressor and jackhammer at home.
Or, maybe we climbers should have our own Mt. Rushmore.
Who's bust would you vote for to represent North American mountaineering/climbing? (besides yourself)
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 15, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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Knott BITD
Knott my first FA, but my first inkling that virgin summits are worthy.
No one, and I mean, no one, will repeat this loose phallus of Slickrock Member Entrada sandstone. It is five miles from pavement, stands 10 feet from a prouder summit, totally lacks a rap anchor. The cracks were riddled with black widow webs. It sucks. But I am glad that I did it. To see the hoodoo alone, up close, made it worthy for me.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 15, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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With Eric Gabel, FA was Natural on Fireplace Bluff
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=870861
it's possible that this is a repeat of the Shipley/Middendorf route Fireside Chat
But as far as I was concerned, it was a good FA and my first... I thank Eric for taking me along and starting me down the road of FAing, and the beginning of our, now long, FA collaboration.
My second and third FA's are also on that cliff, and are likely to be true FAs, but it really doesn't matter...
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Dec 15, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
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My first FA was my 3rd multi-pitch climb, the N.E. Face of Mt. Brewer that I did in 1963 which Life As A Bivouac mentions above. I posted some pictures of it here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1079288&tn=40
Here's another one of Russ on the Summit, looking a little the worse for wear.
The approach took us 2 days over Kearsarge Pass.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 15, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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And in Kronhoffers I read!!!!!!!!!!
Hey, maybe to make it all sound less egotestical, we should start calling 1st ascents virgin ascents.......or something! (I just had to change one letter in ego....). Somehow we need to make our climbs as pure as the driven snow.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 15, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
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Yeah, the ol ego takes a beating sometimes, but without it we would not have interesting constructs like ST. It's pretty fun to see what people are up to. Climbing may just be too dangerous to do for just egotestical reasons. It's a hard thing to do if a person is not 'all there' or still pretty young (at heart)!
You're gonna die!
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dec 15, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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Forgot mine...must have been something at Cochiti Lake or the Basalt cliffs near Los Alamos back in 1974 or early.
I used to keep up with them bit stopped maybe around the thousand mark.
Kevin wrote: Bottom line is climbers that don't do FAs should think twice before judging those who do, whether it's how they're bolted, how they're cleaned, how they're climbed, or why they're climbed. That goes for those that do lots of firsts, too, but their perspective does carry more weight when it's spoken.
Well spoken Kevin. I agree. It is "the man in the arena" thing if you ask me. So much easier to from daggers when sitting in the stands.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Dec 15, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
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I have no idea. Probably something on Stone Mountain, Georgia sixty years ago. Since then I've done a few, but all that seems unimportant now.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 15, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
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I have a few that I would rather forget. One or two I wish I had not bothered to bolt but most of them I feel pretty good about. It is a special feeling seeing people haveing fun on your routs. I also like to repete my routes. Ultimatly I put up routs on features that I want to climb. If it is fun I like to come back and do it again, and again. Kind of like sex but not as complicated ;)
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Dec 15, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
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What a great thread.
Can't remember what my FA was, probably some random boulder problem in NAZ (that had probably been done a thousand years ago).
Sweet helmet you got there crunch.
DMT, I thoroughly enjoyed reading your post on the previous page. I haven't "reported" a climb in quite a few years. Can't remember the last time I sat down and drew out a topo for a FA.
Warbler I connect with your thoughts, too. And folks that haven't done a lot of FA climbing probably can't understand the motivations for those that have.
But JGill hits the nail on the head, it all seems so unimportant now.
Great thread!
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neverwas
Mountain climber
ak
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Dec 15, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 15, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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I was mainly talking about on sighting routes with no route knowledge as a way to get that golden FA feeling even at climbed out crags.
It really is more about the rock than anything. Simply not having knowledge of it's secrets is where it's at. The rock is really what turns me on. I just like seeing the earth's naked crust. I dream about it regularly and always have.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 15, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
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I initially got into climbing in order to experience some of the only unexplored real estate on this increasingly crowded planet....mountains. First ascenting presumes traversing virgin terrain on a micro (mountains) or micro micro (rock climbs) level. What the hell, it's a great way to fulfill the exploratory urge, open more generally to earlier generations.
I honestly can't pinpoint my first FA, probably in the Tetons followed by Yosemite.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Dec 15, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Bottom line is climbers that don't do FAs should think twice before judging those who do, whether it's how they're bolted, how they're cleaned, how they're climbed, or why they're climbed.
Nice idea, well stated. I would have fully agreed, long ago. I still agree 100 percent where the FA party leaves no permanent trace (fixed anchors, slings, etc) of their passing.
But there are so many of us now, recreating in the same landscape.
First ascent parties need to be very aware of potential issues they may provoke with other climbers and with non-climbers.
I've done quite a few first ascents. I try to be very careful to adhere to the ethics that are OK in an area. If I think a potential climb may provoke criticism, or even if I think the impacts from cleaning, bolting, nailing, whatever might be involved, are too heavy, I'll walk away. In 2013, we first ascentionists have to think about how others will view our impacts.
A first ascent opportunity is a privilege. With this comes some responsibility. My worst nightmare would be to provoke the kind of controversy created by the FA of Delicate Arch.
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Ljohnson
Social climber
The land of ice, snow and rocks
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
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Awesome responses! Thanks everyone.
Hearing input from people who have done thousands of FA's is pretty cool, that's why I love the Taco.
I would love to hear some more of the stories from BITD if anyone feels like taking the time to jot them down or post up a link.
As far as the whole ego v/s reporting routes etc... There are a lot of ways to look at it. I truly believe that the history of climbing is part of what makes climbing great. Thrutching up a route with modern gear that was put up with Goldline and pins allows a modern climber a peek into history and get a candid glimpse at those who were pushing the limit of possible in a previous time. The more documentation we have of our history the better IMHOP.
I have a good friend that once pointed out that it won't be too many more decades before all of the "Golden Age climbers" will be gone. And with them a lot of amazing history.
The other side of that coin is that with endless documentation in guidebook form, climbers overall tend to lose the sense of adventure that was so important to the sport in the first place. In fact, it seems as though those who have posted above with numerous ascents to their name have almost all mentioned that they do FA's for just that- a sense of adventure by going where nobody has before.
I guess my point is that regardless of ego (which I do not dispute is part of claiming FA's and climbing in general, perhaps even an integral part.) Documenting climbs is important. Personally, and partially why I started this thread in the first place, is those choss heaps that I climbed do not warrant any written history but many people's 1st, first ascents are worthy of being herd- even if only due to the fact it is a good story.
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Happy Idiot
Trad climber
Santa Fe
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Dec 15, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
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hmmmm, I haven't been in this game very long at all. And I never really thought of myself as an FA kind of guy. But I recently found some stuff here in New Mexico that was remote, but it looked good and seemed worth some time-investment. So we've been taking the gearz for some walks:
My 1st 1st: Winter of 2013; based on the remote location, and the lack of tat or prior rap anchors, etc., it seemed pretty clear that nobody with any intent to climb had been up this frozen waterfall before:
Then I showed this other flow to my buddy, who got it on with it:
It seemed pretty humbling to nab a couple probable FAs on ice, in this day and age, considering all the hype....
2nd 1st: In the summer 2013, another friend went with me to check this tower, in the same canyon:
We climbed 400 feet in 2 pitches up the left side (south face). 5.7, with a little looseness, but ntb.
No signs of anyone prior on the summit, so we claimed it. (Although, not after my partner punked me with a dirty plastic spoon that he'd found on the trail and carried up with him... SOB!)
We rapped off slung trees; no other material left behind.
There's tons of FA potential in this canyon. And, although I'm an avid and regular user of mountainproject, I've not posted either of these route descriptions. Partly, because they're not really worth repeats. But also, these areas are remote, and are federal wilderness, and are, hmm, worth the payoff to the adventurer who seeks out the unknown. And they're my babies. But, conversely, I've hopefully left enough of a sign (in the form of slung rap anchors, summit cairn) to any future suitors that these routes are not virgin.
So, yeah, FA'ing for personal satisfaction, for ego, or legacy, or for hmmm....? Still thinking on that one, I am.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 15, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
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Nice posts Warbler and crunch. Props.
Mine was a 3 bolt rap job(What?) called 5lbs 9oz at The Promised Land, Az. in '91.
It was fun, added to the area, and I was proud of it at the time.
And it got upgraded to 10a, lol.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 15, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
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Geez Crunch...you certainly aren't talking about sport climbers first ascents. Leave no trace....i agree but where would archeologists be?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dec 15, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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Jim wrote: Geez Crunch...you certainly aren't talking about sport climbers first ascents. Leave no trace....i agree but where would archeologists be?
Yes and trad climbers and mountaineers have done a great job on that...look at Everest and the tons of trash, pitons, webbing and other crap left behind these climbers. :-)
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MisterE
climber
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Dec 15, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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That's not ego?
Serious question. I think it is. One can contribute without legacy. Not every president needs a library?
DMT
Not really, I figure most people that climb a route won't know or care who put it up, unless it is a real stand-out.
It's just there and gets enjoyed.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 15, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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Bob, the one thing that humans have perfected to an astonishing degree is hypocrisy.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 15, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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Hey Jefe, check this out...1996
Route called Bunny Slope (9+) we put up at the Promised Land.
Not my first or last. Hope it hasn't fallen down yet!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Dec 16, 2013 - 08:38am PT
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I'm really not sure, but in my case, it was probably some solo aid climb,
where I was learning how to aid, in preparation for something on a larger scale. It might of been Jane, at Crow Hill, which I did mid-winter, all iced up.
Henry Barber did the 1st free ascent, after he came onto the scene, establishing the 1st 5.11 in Massachusetts. It is a trade route now, but still, bolt free.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Dec 16, 2013 - 08:57am PT
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So true Jim. Hope all is well?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Dec 16, 2013 - 09:02am PT
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eagle creek canyon,1999.
at about 2/3 heights
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Dr.Knox
Trad climber
Salzburg, Austria
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Dec 16, 2013 - 09:12am PT
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My really first ascent, hehe!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Dec 16, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
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Lots of great comments here, especially Kevin, JGill, Dingus...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 16, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
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It might have been an aid route on Mt Erie, Washington.
Hey, you didn't say it had to be worthy, did you?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 18, 2015 - 09:40am PT
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No posts since 2013 BUMP!
eagle creek canyon,1999.
Norweeeeeeg! When I first started to top rope ice and stuff, we went to Eagle Creek canyon several times. I always thought that peak looked really cool in winter. Like a little version of Everest's N face or something. After one of those sessions we hiked to the top using the ridge on the left skyline. Views from the top are wayyyyy cool!
My FIRST First Ascent was an experience....
Daniel (LimpingCrab) invited me to climb a formation we later dubbed The Fortress back in the end of . Was first time we climbed together, and his first backcountry FA too as I remember. 1000 ft unclimbed spire was a tough task with a bitch of an approach. We went with a stronger climber named Tom who brought along his dog which made the things seem a bit less serious.
On the way in I had the pleasure of diving in a yellow jackets nest. Counted over 10 bites after a 200 ft downhill sprint. The next day we climbed the spire taking a cool route up a crack system that splits the face. It was intimidating climbing into the unknown but I loved the experience. Especially after we topped out on a summit that had no sign of previous ascents and chased a bear away from our food after descending.
Daniel's write up....even with all the yellow jackets stinging me, bushwhacking and lichen, a priceless experience.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Adventure-on-an-unclimbed-Sierra-tower/t11647n.html
Still climb with Daniel, when he spares a minute for me! :)
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Sep 18, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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Ego, like "style" is a slippery word - its definition runs from self esteem to conceit.
Gaining self esteem from significant climbing accomplishments is hard to criticize. Boosted self esteem feels good and it's a healthy part of human nature to seek it out. Sharing information about first ascents is a timeless tradition of travelers in the mountains, I reckon, even before climbing history began being recorded in writing. You can bet the Anasazi talked about their routes around the campfire, and likely there was some competition and pride involved which edged into the negative connotations of the word ego.
Great comment, KW - and nice bump, V!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 18, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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DMT - There is a third part you are missing to a good FA, and that is the legacy. Looking back and realizing you made a contribution to the community that will be there long after you are gone.
Gotta admit I couldn't care less if anyone else ever repeats any of my FAs or even knows that they've ever been climbed. I've never climbed for the 'community' and can't even really quite fathom the concept - the 'community' can go find their own damn climbs and if they stumble onto one of mine then good for them.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 18, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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Gotta admit I couldn't care less if anyone else ever repeats any of my FAs or even knows that they've ever been climbed. I've never climbed for the 'community' and can't even really quite fathom the concept - the 'community' can go find their own damn climbs and if they stumble onto one of mine then good for them.
I feel the same way most of the time, but when I do something REALLLLY cool that I think others would enjoy A LOT, I do my best to encourage people to climb it. It is great when others go, do the climb that takes them to a cool place, challenges them and has good quality. It is like contributing a great experience to their life, which makes me feel better than giving someone a gift card or something materialistic. My primary motivation for becoming a nurse was to help people. So adding a (hopefully) positive experience for other climbers is as nice as comforting elders when they are down. Different but similar...don't know. Just get on Lower Tokopah Dome - Tokopah Reality, Bubbs Creek Wall - The Emperor, Hamilton Dome - Subliminal Verses, both routes on Charubim Dome, Krymptonite on Panther Peak, East Face of Castle Rock Spire, SE Arete of Castle Dome, Monkey in the Clouds on the Prism and the Wild West Crack on Serpent's Tooth!!! SICK ROUTES! Brutus of Wyde Memorial route on Flatiron, Turn Down For What Arete on Erickson Crag #3, Usually Its Sunny on Santa Cruz Dome and Mango Lassi Lulz Machine on Lower Tokopah are good too!
I have to add a lot of these to MP.
All of the above are in season now too....
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Sep 18, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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as an inveterate cross-poster, i'm hoping to dredge up a qualifying memory by the time
someone starts a thread with the title of "Off Route, Start to Finish: your Personal Best"
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 18, 2015 - 11:56am PT
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My first ?.
My best worth repeat?
My best now someone else's masterpiece?
Not mine
Hooblie,
Kevin Biens,
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DonC
climber
CA
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Sep 18, 2015 - 01:02pm PT
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a little thing at Big Rock called Let it Bleed
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 18, 2015 - 01:14pm PT
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When this thread first came up, I went looking for my climbing notes. When I found them, I forgot why I wanted them, so I'm glad someone bumped this thread from its slumber.
My first FA was up a snow couloir and a Class-4 rock buttress near Annie's Spire in the Ritter Range in July of 1968. We ended up marching over to Mt. Davis and claiming the FA in the summit register. Probably not worth a repeat, particularly now. 1968 was a low snow year, and we had our share of rockfall, so I can only imagine what it would be like now, but it was a real mountaineering adventure.
My first all-rock FA was a buttress on a practice rock near Shaver Lake in June of 1970. I'd attempted it the year before and bailed only fifteen feet up, so I had that failure marinating in my mind for a year.
The route was mixed free and aid, including a tied-off knifeblade as the first placement (at said 15 foot mark), free climbing out of a RURP aid placement, and a very awkward mantle from a body-weight placement with a horrendous fall potential. Best of all, my climbing partner, Tim Schiller - with whom I was particularly competitive - couldn't follow it, and the pin below the mantle pulled while he was struggling with the move. I had bragging rights for over a year.
I would not care to repeat that lead, but a couple of months later Tim and I made what is possibly the first technical climb on the Fresno Dome escarpment.
John
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Sep 18, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
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1993 or 94 - Burst Rock
One day at the Columbia library I run into Grant and we get to talking about local cool zones. He told me to go check this cool granitic zone up high in Emigrant wldns that has a short approach and good bouldering along the top with a couple cool faces. I figure that be a good place to explore with my buddy Rob; we had a luigi roll, a stick of salami and a 6'r of Pale to accompany us on our stroll.
DDDaaaaaayyymm were we stoked, bitchin faces on the N. and S. sides of Burst! WE found the routes he mentioned he did awhile back and saw many more 'unclimbed' zones. We took some pics, made some notes and bouldered our way back along the ridge then strolled back to the car.
A week or two later I am hanging with the pb and we were both going through some tough times and needed a break from the lower Tuolumne environs....So, I tell Phil about this zone that Grant told me to check out and I think he already knew about it but maybe not the specifics. We grabbed his Bosch and went for a atroll to a little dihedral, short face up to and over a micro roof. We did a little TRing and figured out where to put the 3 or 4 bolts and anchors. We got the bolts in and I red-pointed first go(of course it was after a little TR-ing) and it was hella fun and I was happy as a clam. The name we came up with that day is not what they called it in the guide book(by the time it came out I was long gone and maybe Phil didn't remember it or??) and I can understand why they didn't know it. Anyway, we called it 'Baby Steps'. For someone shorter than Phil you had to baby step your feet up high to reach over the roof and we both knew that to get through the stuff we was dealing with would take baby steps... I don't have a pic
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Sep 18, 2015 - 02:17pm PT
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First accent with Rob Mulligan on Psoriasis on Escape Rock Joshua Tree 1985.
First bolt I ever hand drilled is about ten feet below Rob in this photo, runout about twenty feet from the first bolt with a potential grounder fall.
Went back about twenty years later and re-climbed with some other partners and realized the crux is actually the last move to get to the clip of the bolt I drilled.
Fun stuff!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Sep 18, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
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At 15 and 16 years of age, unaware of the sparse climbing community in the Tahoe area, and totally ignorant; all of the routes Bill Todd and I did for the first six months or so were FA's to us. It wasn't till I got a loose leaf guide from Gene Drake that we could figure out what we had done. What was the real first? Hell,my memories of climbs 45 years ago are dull, but I hope to do another with Bob Pinckney next week.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 18, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
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The Story of Energy Crisis. If you can recall a odd-even ration plan was devised. So my plan was this: I took Moms car on Wednesday, a 69 Chrysler Imperial, and filled it up. I took my AMC Javelin ( highly- modified, headers, holly, intake manifold…it was built. It was a 13 second car and got about 11 MPG on the open road. ) on Thursday I waited in line and filled it to the brim. So now I had two tanks full of gas. I needed 10 extra gallons to make it round trip, so with two 5 gallon gas cans in the back of the Javelin Mike Pope, Dean Fedelman and myself took off for Josh.
The freeways were deserted, but I was able to keep the speed down … to get the best MPG… by using discipline. When we arrived in Josh the whole place was deserted, more so then usual.
Saturday morning I convinced the boys to go out to a good looking crack I had found while wandering around a few weeks earlier. The base of the crack was protected by thick brush, so we crawled in on hands and knees. Pope took the first try, he cranked the boulder problem mantle, got hold of the bottom of the crack and took off on a powerful layback. When he reached a handy ledge he belayed and Dean and I quickly joined him. The next pitch was thin hands, Dean had a go and after about 35 feet he reached another ledge and belayed us both up. The last pitch was mine, nice hands to the top where I sunk in a ¾ baby angle in such a way that it could not be cleaned. When we were all at the top we had to do something we had never done before, think of a name and a grade.
The Name: Energy Crisis to freeze the moment in history.
The Grade: We all said 5.8
The climb is now sporting a “this climb closed to climbing” …. Years later some ass holes chopped down a tree so they could get on a line about 20 feet to the right of EC. This revealed some very faded petroglyphs and the Park Service shut it down.
I still go and do this climb every few years just to gauge myself, I can’t believe we called it 5.8… we were young and dumb and full of it.
Oh yea, we made it back to Woodland Hills with about 2 gallons to spare.
Sorry no photo of Mike Pope....
EDIT... this is not on MP cause its a closed climb. Its a bit to the right of ZZZZZZZZZZZZ The NPS put up a closed sign at the base.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Sep 18, 2015 - 04:10pm PT
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Climbing choss piles near Moscow, Idaho as youth was nothing but first ascents.
I was fortunate enough to be out at Stoney Point right after the Northridge quake and plucked a TR FA away from some Redondo Beach guys who couldn't pull the crux move on a boulder that split in half.
Crafting moderately spicy moderate sport routes at Texas Canyon in the 1990's was my best and real FA work.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Sep 18, 2015 - 05:13pm PT
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Great posts from some real Old School FA'ers - thanks!
I can tell you from first-hand experience one thing about ego and first ascents:
Your closeness is truly tested when someone chops one of your routes.
For me? Hardly Visible and I are friends because he chopped my route and I realized he did the right thing.
We got together and talked about it...
You know, like before the internet?
Edit: oh, and JHealy: your post reminds me of the CC.com days - where's Pope and Dwayner? LOL!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Sep 18, 2015 - 06:22pm PT
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Here is what a guide service says about my first FA route:
This great climb is about 13 pitches long. It has a lot of quick and easy climbing but is not for the "faint of heart". It contains areas of stacked loose rock but it is easily managed by a competent climber. The sections of polished, metamorphic rock provides interesting headwalls and corners that prove great climbing to a high summit.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 30, 2015 - 11:48am PT
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a little thing at Big Rock called Let it Bleed
I led that climb in 1974, and thoroughly enjoyed it. Thanks for your efforts.
John
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 30, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
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from a Stonemaster thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2294321&tn=80
Jun 23, 2006 - 08:36pm PT
So while we're "slandering" Mr. Clevenger, let me recount one of the very first times I ever placed a bolt. Vern, too, I'll bet...
Summer of 1971, we were both so green behind the ears, you coulda harvested the algae for protein. I was barely 19, and Vern was a bubbly teeny-bopper himself. First Summer in Tuolumne, back in the day when you could actually pitch a tent and camp at Soda Springs, right below the Sierra Club lodge (which back then was also a lending library.) There were full-on camp tables and fire rings then, and it was a free campground--mostly filled with climbers. Hell, you could park your car there, too. (See, LEB... That was part of what enabled the Stonemaster lifestyle. ...cheap lodging!) I spent three or four weeks there that Summer.
Vern and I had scoped-out a possible first ascent line! Hot damn! Probably our first foray into the unknown; possibly our first entry in the guidebooks! A place in history! To the right of the main face of Meddlicott, was this slabby little hunk that had a dike running vertically up a two-hundred foot sloped wall. Modest, but unclimbed!
Somehow, between the two of us, we had a drill, a hammer and a couple of 1/4" rawls and some hangers. We were all set!
"Baggage" would be ours. We hammered-in a bolt (or two), ran it out, and returned to write it up in the Meadows' notebook. As Tarbuster would say, "we were swole!" Our first FA!
"Ruby the Dyke." (Spot that reference, old timers.) ...couldn't have been more that 5.7 at the outside.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 30, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
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On second thought, I guess my real first first ascent was the Bolt Ladder route on Mount Diablo back in 1968-69.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Sep 30, 2015 - 05:33pm PT
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My First Route Lesson Learned 5.11b 1989, Devils Punchbowl.. Steeper than it looks.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Sep 30, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
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Wow, I had to break out the record book to remind me.
My very first FA was on the diatomaceous earth cliff at the NW end of Upper Newport Bay. I led a mixed route 5.6 A2 with Mike Raab, my best friend in high school. This was in Jan. 1974. In retrospect it was more like modern A3+ as no single piece would have held much more than bodyweight.
The second was the first pitch of Magical Mystery Tour at Tahquitz with Matt Cox in 7/74. In 9/74 Mike Graham and Matt Cox and I did the first 3 on MMT, 5.10 A3. One week later "Rubidoux" Jim Wilson and I repeated the first 3. Soon after that Matt and Tobin Sorenson "stole" the FA of the complete route.
Full Frontal Nudity 5.10b which RV and I did in 1-2/76 (and mentioned up-thread) was my 12th or 13th FA.
For many of us climbing FA's had less (but not nothing) to do with "ego" but just the desire to touch rock that no other humans had touched. In the 20th century what other venue was more suited to the pioneering spirit?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 30, 2015 - 09:50pm PT
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My very first FA was on the diatomaceous earth cliff at the NW end of Upper Newport Bay.
Whoa, that's some kind of sickness. That shizz makes the White Cliffs of Dover
look solid!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 30, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
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If you can remember your 1st FA, you weren't there....especially if it was in the 60's.
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john bald
climber
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Hi Guy,
Funny that you mentioned Energy Crisis. Those were the days. We all climbed with each other as the opportunity came our way. Did several early climbs there with Mike Pope and crew.
I distinctly remember leading the first pitch of Energy Crisis with Dean belaying. You led the second. Mike was not with us that day.
Likewise, I recall waiting at the pumps in order to fill up the tank.
Thanks for the memories!
Cheers, John Bald
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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I distinctly remember leading the first pitch of Energy Crisis with Dean belaying. You led the second. Mike was not with us that day.
Hi, John... OK my bad, Now that you have jogged the old memory... You are correct. It was you who got me motivated to go and do new routes, cause thats what you did all the time.
I guess Donini is correct.
As Dee says, those were the days. I remember when Matt and Tobin walked down to Humber park in the early evening, great big shiteating grins on their faces, dirty and tired and announced "we freed magical mystery tour ..."
I was never out climbing for my ego, it was all for the adventure, heck we never even turned in any FA information cause there was nobody to give it to till Randy started collecting info.
IIRC... you moved up North and started tearing up the unknown climbing by Mt. Shasta
remember these guys?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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A maybe more relevant question for this crowd....when was your LAST first ascent or, even, when was your last ascent?
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Last FFA last week.. At Your Own Risk 10c or 11a Ground Up. Tunnels. With Batrock.
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john bald
climber
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Guy nice pic from back then
Jim yes, some of us still get out
Jeffery hope to hit the Tunnels next time I'm down there
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Good one Jeff..... you will need to point that one out to me.
To answer Jims Q... about two years ago, out in the desert.
Yafer and I did "Rust Never Sleeps" 10a and the "Aunanique" 10a (I can't remember his spelling for a ancient alien race, that raised humans as workers.... a ship crash landed on earth, we are the survivors...)
We rap bolted these suckers into some cool limestone/marble at a place that is yet to be disclosed......
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