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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2013 - 11:34am PT
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I don't think alpinism "has" to be a mix of disciplines to qualify as alpinism per se, but, maybe just the risk of it.
As in, the bear has to have the opportunity to eat you.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
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Dec 10, 2013 - 11:48am PT
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Jim Donini, John Bragg, and Jay Wilson on Torre Egger. . .
Jim Donini, Jeff Lowe, George Lowe, and Michael Kennedy-N Ridge, Latok 1
Mark Twight, Steve House, and Scott Backes- Czech Direct, Denali
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 10, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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The deriving of sexual gratification, or the tendency to derive sexual gratification, from being physically or emotionally abused, is one of the things that some climbers call alpinism.
The deriving of pleasure, or the tendency to derive pleasure, from being humiliated or mistreated, either by another or by oneself, certainly is part of the make-up of a climbing personality.
A willingness or tendency to subject oneself to unpleasant or trying experiences--well, that happens right here, to alpinist, hedonist, or masochist alike.
"Why are there never any ladies out here, anyhow? Conjugate that, Steinbeck!"--more alpine muttering by Mr. Clyde
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 10, 2013 - 11:57am PT
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T hee!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 10, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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The deriving of sexual gratification, or the tendency to derive sexual gratification, from being physically or emotionally abused, is one of the things that some climbers call alpinism.
The deriving of pleasure, or the tendency to derive pleasure, from being humiliated or mistreated, either by another or by oneself, certainly is part of the make-up of a climbing personality.
A willingness or tendency to subject oneself to unpleasant or trying experiences--well, that happens right here, to alpinist, hedonist, or masochist alike.
I don't know man, for me it's more about the power of will and art rather than the power of masochism or unpleasantness. These latter things just happen sometimes and we tolerate them for the greater good.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
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"It doesn't have to be fun to be fun."
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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Wow....people care! Great answers from the humorous to the profane. I posed the question because of some perceived acrimony between the sport and trad camps.
I believe alpinisim is the culmination of ALL types of climbing with the additional aspects of exploration and the intense desire to be in that greatest expression of the world's topography....mountains.
Alpinisim to me, as has been stated, is technical climbing in the mountains as opposed to the snow step kicking ascents of big non-technical peaks.
To be an alpinist you need to develop all of the skills......rock, ice, route finding, planning, hazard assessment, winter camping etc.
Sport climbing and even gym climbing and bouldering contribute to the skill set needed for serious alpinisim. The different types of climbing are not discrete but are on a continuum although many choose to concentrate on one or two types.
So rather than divide up into camps and snipe at each other be aware that we all shelter under the same big tent.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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Real alpinists don't use tents...
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TwistedCrank
climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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It's like pornography.
You can't define alpinisim, but you'll know it when you see it.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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Alpinism- setting up fixed lines and stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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That's expedition style climbing, long out of vogue but still practised by some.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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I know. I was being facetious. I just like the idea of leisure being involved.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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Lot's of leisure.....festering for days of bad weather in a tent for example.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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So in reality, Alpine style climbing has more leisure days than actual climbing days....sign me up!
Of course, I will need a full gamut of technology to both entertain myself and keep the Facebook/twitter/Instagram/sponsor world fully updated regarding my awesomeness.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
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So rather than divide up into camps and snipe at each other be aware that we all shelter under the same big tent.
Oh, hell no! I am not sharing my tent with a sport climber! (just kidding)
I also think that bouldering in the gym, big walls in Yosemite, dayhiking a moderately difficult 13-14er, climbing a longish route on the Hulk, short ice routes in Ouray, etc is a way to train for big alpine faces. Best way is probably getting on cl 4-5 alpine routes in Sierra in winter. Or finding some chossy big face in Sierra that would probably be doable and climbing it in Winter with snow everywhere.
E ridge of Carl Heller for example, is only class 4 in summer, but in winter was a great challenge when I was a beginner. Great training for alpinism. I heard East Ridge of Russell (class 3) when covered in snow is a great winter challenge.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Mt-Carl-Heller-Winter-ascent-of-East-Arete/t10996n.html
Of course, I will need a full gamut of technology to both entertain myself and keep the Facebook/twitter/Instagram/sponsor world fully updated regarding my awesomeness.
LOL Alpinism IS NOT gonna get you any pussy or fan-boys! I think the reason it is so awesome is because it is so personal, and no one understands what you been through unless you were there. It is sort of like an art and a way to self-express while exploring and pushing your limits. Without cameras or spotlights, unless you are Ueli Steck, Steve House or David Lama (than you can look like a superman to others). But most people think it is a snow hike like Shasta, and there are fixed ropes that you ascent. lol
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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Alpinism=any route that may be skied some day.
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bergbryce
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
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lurk = reads but does not post
alpinism = fast, light, you'd better have your $hit in gear because it could get real serious real fast up there. Requires skill on rock, ice and snow, a high level of fitness as well as strong understanding of the high mountain environment. The finest form of climbing in my humble opinion. The finest pitch of whatever on rock simply does not compare to the feeling of having been on the move for 20 hours and completing the objective.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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Hrm...you guys make it seem like alpinists require very....specific porn...
!!!
HAHAHA
Crazy people!!
Cheers
LS
ps - awesome pics, yum.
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