Assault on El Capitan now in limited release

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Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
Rudder-

There's trouble everywhere in life, but much of it can be avoided. Mark says that it was impossible to avoid. Sounds Grossmanish.

I've always thought it was a lot more than just a couple of guys minding their own business that were harassed.

This is a classic example of blaming the victim. ;)

“They must have provoked their attackers into being abusive, or they wouldn't have been abusive. Both parties need to change.” ;)

This type of statement assumes that the victim is equally to blame for the abuse, when in reality, abuse is a conscious choice made by the abuser. ;)

The problem is that in the process you're perpetuating the classic pattern of marginalization and invalidation of Mark and Richard, arguing that either of them speaking to defend themselves is an indication that they are "too personally and emotionally attached and by extension unreasonable", and indicating to at least some extent tacit approval toward the people who seriously violated their basic rights and personal safety. ;)

A better choice might be to recognize that you do not have all of the information regarding these events, and that perhaps making public speculation about the "waste of 30 years" or various character flaws of these two based on nothing more than personal assumption of "how things _actually_ were" is unwarranted or unnecessary at best. ;)
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Some of the folks might have been a bit rude or snotty....

Throwing full beer cans from altitude at a person's head or surrounding them and telling them they would be killed in the woods and shipped out in a box is hardly just rude.

For what it's worth, the video is well put together, and has some great discussion from many of the folk closest to all of this. I highly recommend it, especially for the relatively low promotional cost it's up there for at the moment. =)
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
Rob told me that two factors contributed to them deciding to not continue:

1) Heat. That slab becomes a reflector oven, and they simply hadn't brought enough water.

2) Time. It was taking longer than they had expected.

Put 1 and 2 together and they just weren't going to make it with the water they had.

Of note is that Rob told me that he put together an article for Climbing magazine in which he tried to clear some things up based upon his observations, including the line, "... the most technical hooking I've ever seen, and very run out." Climbing rejected the article. "Bolt ladder" rumors persisted.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
Yep young competitive snot turf wars can get pretty nasty. Many times it can be much worse than this one. Didn't mean to downplay it as much as that sounded above. But it is not surprising that it happenned is all I'm saying.

Also to try to define those involved 30 years later based on what they did is a real disservice. I would expect most of them turned out to be pretty decent folk.
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Roger that bud. =)
Just unfortunate that it did. =/


And yes, I agree. I sure as heck hope people won't judge me for who I am at 50 based on who I was at 20.
Mind you, I do believe I'll have some people I want to apologize to by that point...
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 22, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Does anyone else think there is a "tempest in a teapot" element to this whole story?

I do... but nonetheless it has remained interesting to me. :)

Back to the tempest in a teapot comment... and at the risk of having him kick my ass... (which he could still do quite easily even at 60 with a broken leg, haha)... I thought John Long summed up this whole thing concisely and accurately in one of the other WOS threads:

"How could anyone ever look up the Super Slab (the start of WOS) and believe there was an authentic route there - authentic being a highly subjective word, granted. I see those 5 bolt belays and know these guys had way too much time on their hands. It's like the Gringo version of the compressor route on Cerro Torre, but less. Sh#t, I don't know, but I can't imagine spending so much time on so little.

JL"

I've wasted lots of time on little before, which is why I think I relate to this story. haha

Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 22, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
Guess I ought to get this film though..it's an interesting story if nothing else.

Another reason to get the film is that, to me, it is pretty well put together.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 22, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
This is a classic example of blaming the victim. ;)

I have a few dozen posts in the WOS threads through the years. I've always condemned the shitters. I would have been the first guy defending the FAists from anyone threatening or otherwise trying to physically harm them.
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
We are set up to bring Assault on El Capitan to your city. If you would like to host and event or be a part of our multi city tour please let me know and I will get you the details. This could be a fundraiser or benefit event.



Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 25, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
Jeff, how much are you charging for the promotional poster?
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
We haven't begun marketing ancillary items. Message me through FB or email and I have an answer for you.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Nov 26, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
The movie is good. It represents all the points of view well enough. It shows pieces of the second ascent and the Kait/Ammon situation even. It goes back far enough to even include me. Other older characters trot through too to wonderful effect.

Perhaps if one were to take the most critical stance with the film, it might be that the movie does not really resolve the Grossman side of the equation with Mark and Richard's variables. But it airs both sides well, leaving the viewer to make conclusions. It remains, in other words, fair and tries to maintain neutrality.

We don't get to the point where on a granular level what Ammon found up there on the route does or does not jive with Richard/Mark's descriptions. Ammon has basically stayed out of that examination anyway. And the film keeps out of the question if the route was actually a climb or a construction project or something that is not a climb, perhaps actually a divine enterprise of those two very young men. How their resulting book was heavily used in their church for their youth groups later on, and to what degree their total lack of socializing with the climbing community over years before and obviously since was part of that mission directly or indirectly and at apparently unimportant personal cost.. Since we are trying to look at all things here, lo these many years.

The film puts a very humane face on the whole story and the characters at play in it.
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 26, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
Howdy Peter, good to see you again.

The movie is good. It represents all the points of view well enough. It shows pieces of the second ascent and the Kait/Ammon situation even. It goes back far enough to even include me. Other older characters trot through too to wonderful effect.

Agreed. And a large part of what I enjoyed most about this film.

Perhaps if one were to take the most critical stance with the film, it might be that the movie does not really resolve the Grossman side of the equation with Mark and Richard's variables. But it airs both sides well, leaving the viewer to make conclusions. It remains, in other words, fair and tries to maintain neutrality.

In fact, I find this to be one of the movie's strongest aspects. I appreciate that a particular point of view is not pushed, and many are represented, allowing the viewer an informed space in which to make up their own mind about the matter.

We don't get to the point where on a granular level what Ammon found up there on the route does or does not jive with Richard/Mark's descriptions.


Thaaat, I agree with. It would have been good to hear what Ammon and Kait found, and how that compares with the FA account, especially given one of Grossman's biggest angles has been to accuse them of lying. However....

Ammon has basically stayed out of that examination anyway.

...however, I do believe he and Kait did mention this in the Rock and ice Climber account before, that with the exception of the bolt ladder that Mark and Richard disavowed, the hole count they encountered is almost exact.

And the film keeps out of the question if the route was actually a climb or a construction project or something that is not a climb, perhaps actually a divine enterprise of those two very young men. How their resulting book was heavily used in their church for their youth groups later on, and to what degree their total lack of socializing with the climbing community over years before and obviously since was part of that mission directly or indirectly and at apparently unimportant personal cost.. Since we are trying to look at all things here, lo these many years.

On this matter, it would have been good to hear Ammon and Kait's reflection on the experience a bit more in-depth.

I can understand to some degree how the religious and spiritual context and the interaction of the FA party with the climbing community since the climb was left out - it is not directly a part of the story of the first or second ascent. Though it would be an interesting avenue to explore. I will say, having been a student of Mark's and a good friend of his for years, I only heard him talk about Wings of Steel once, maybe twice in passing during my time in school with him. I'm pretty sure the whole episode flew completely under the radar of almost all of his students. I never experienced having the book pushed on me at any point, and in fact I only read the book a few years ago when I discovered (on my own) the WoS thread on Supertopo. Honestly, if I had read that book when I was still in high school, I can foresee an alternate reality in which I had joined the climbing club Mark set up at our school, and possibly have become an active climber from then until present. In a number of ways, I rather would have preferred that alternative.

The film puts a very humane face on the whole story and the characters at play in it.


Agreed.

An enjoyable review, thanks for the read.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Nov 26, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
And thank you Dweeb!

Their book, Richard's I should say, does in fact share their religious interests and in relatively generous frequency, mostly in the first half of the text. So, and since this book is really part of the whole morality play here, I consider that avoiding the huge social and religious differences at work here among these hundred or so individuals and all of us in following decades, is to not explain or understand fully that whole story. It might get queazy for most of us to "go there" though.

Today perhaps there are only a couple of men left in our community who would advocate for the mortal threats, crapping and crap-throwing Mark and Richard experienced. Back then obviously a few more adherents were in action with this most famous habit of the lower primates. That in some cases there were felonies committed by a very few merely reminds me of what it is like and has been like for over fifty years, surfing on the North Shore of Oahu and many thousands of other surf spots around the globe.

One of the costs to Mark and Richard's disinterest in our deep and detailed history and sociology in Camp Four was thorough misunderstanding by all involved. And M & R's lack of comprehension of how stuff can go down in C4 especially back in the day or in other male-dominated, high pressure subcultures was another cost. They obviously took it all as gospel, shall I say, when it was largely symbolic as most bullying ends up being. But territorialism, male-to-male aggression, and general ludicrous bullying is hardly a new phenomenon in so many types of situations still in our era and one floats best well above these bottom currents.

It is of course truly dismaying to almost all of us, especially today, that they experienced what they did from some of us. They simply were victims of alarming abuse. Like gay teens, like people of color in white districts, like what politically different individuals face in big gatherings of their opponents. The list goes on, need I say.

To many today, it is also regretful that with their dedication, energy and resources they chose to put up such a strange thirteen pitch climb instead of ascending other terrain that would have given them more chance at satisfying free play for their talents. They suffered in so many ways, didn't they.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 26, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
Their book, Richard's I should say, does in fact shares their religious interests and in relatively generous frequency, mostly in the first half of the text. So, and since this book is really part of the whole morality play here, I consider that avoiding the huge social and religious differences at work here among these hundred or so individuals and all of us in following decades, is to not explain or understand fully that whole story. It might get queazy for most of us to "go there" though.

Today perhaps there are only a couple of men left in our community who would advocate for the mortal threats, crapping and crap-throwing Mark and Richard experienced. Back then obviously a few more adherents were in action with this most famous habit of the lower primates. That in some cases there were felonies committed by a very few merely reminds me of what it is like and has been like for over fifty years, surfing on the North Shore of Oahu and many thousands of other surf spots around the globe.

One of the costs to Mark and Richard's disinterest in our deep and detailed history and sociology in Camp Four was thorough misunderstanding by all involved. And M & R's lack of comprehension of how stuff can go down in C4 especially back in the day or in other male-dominated, high pressure subcultures was another cost. They obviously took it all as gospel, shall I say, when it was largely symbolic as most bullying ends up being. But territorialism, male-to-male aggression, and general ludicrous bullying is hardly a new phenomenon in so many types of situations still in our era and one floats best well above these bottom currents.

It is of course truly dismaying to almost all of us, especially today, that they experienced what they did from some of us. They simply were victims of alarming abuse. Like gay teens, like people of color in white districts, like politically different individuals face in big gatherings of their opponents. The list goes on, need I say.

To many today, it is also regretful that with their dedication, energy and resources they chose to put up such a strange 13 pitch climb instead of ascending other terrain that would have given them more chance at satisfying free play for their talents. They suffered in so many ways, didn't they.

What he said. :)
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Nov 26, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
I appreciate your perspective, Peter, as well as your contributions to the film. There are a few things I would like to correct, however.

"Largely symbolic" seems like a strange comment to me. There is a lot of additional information that has not made it out into public, but, trust me, there was nothing symbolic, largely or otherwise, to the threats and actual felonious acts. And what turned the tide is not something I'll get into here. But there are a few that know the whole story, because they were affected by how things almost turned out... of course, they aren't saying anything either. LOL

The route is not 10 pitches. It's 13 pitches. On a related note, since it often comes up alongside this sort of mistake (although not in your particular post) is that the slab is not 900 feet tall. We ran the rope virtually out (165 feet) on all but one pitch (135 feet, as I remember), and the route does not meander much. We put the slab at right about 1200 feet. In toto, there's at least 1600 feet of climbing on the route.

And, we were not "pushed" into Aquarian; that is exactly where we intended to end up from the inception of the route. Anybody looking at that area with binoculars or telescope will clearly see that the slab funnels to a "point" right about where Horse Chute cuts over (and we shared an anchor with it at the top of the slab). Then there is an obvious crack system leading up and LEFT that ultimately ends about 50 feet from Aquarian. This was the route we planned, and it quite obviously ends in Aquarian. Nothing "ad hoc" about it.

Finally, contrary to speculations, what that slab had to offer is exactly what we were seeking. It's not like we couldn't "find" something that would have been "better." That is question-begging thinking, because people only know how to think about crack systems. But we weren't even seeking just another route that followed crack systems. We were seeking something to "push us" in ways that conventional gear in crack systems just cannot do. And we found what we were seeking and more. As Kait said, only four people know what that route is about.

Regarding the religious content of the book, if anything this should completely undo the claim that we were "hyping" the route. The climbing community basically didn't know the book existed for a long, long time; and it wasn't marketed to the climbing community. By the time the book had come out, we had abandoned any thought of getting fair or even reasonable treatment from the powers that were in the climbing community, especially in publishing. The book's publication into the Christian community was a natural outworking of our experiences....

We had given slide shows in various churches, and we were encouraged to write a Christian "take" on the experience, which is what I ultimately did. I would write a different book today. Maybe there would even be a different audience for it. But for climbers today to now evaluate the book qua "climbing book" is like a non sequitur. I obviously tried to explain a lot of things climbing-relevant, as I figured that this would be the only "canonical tale" we got to tell. But it is certainly not cast TO climbers.

Again, thank you for your contributions to the discussion and the film. I have nothing but respect for you.
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
It's great to hear the debate about the film and what it does and does not do. That kind of discussion is what I as a filmmaker strive for. A film that people interpret the same material in different ways. I don't like to weigh in on what I did and why I did it, though during Q&A at screenings I have been more open in that type of forum.

There has been talk about the threads of the film and where we could have gone. Those are interesting discussions and decisions had to be made, but ultimately we had a story we wanted to tell and tried to stay true to that end.

The people who appeared in the film were amazing and gratious, giving and forthcoming. I am eternally grateful. I could name each one and tell you exactly the important comtribution each made. Much interview footage did not make the film but that information helped shape the story.

We have found that we have an international audience which shows how legendary Yosemite climbing is. On the Euro website that is offering downloads we are the number 1 most popular film and after only one week are one of their most popular films of 2013.

We are organizing a US threatrical tour of the film and look forward to taking this on the road. If you want us to come to your city. let me know.

This was my career First Ascent.....
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 28, 2013 - 01:30am PT
Way to go, Wolf. =)

I'm glad to hear that your hard work is paying off.
I hope you feel a sense of pride about it all. =)
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Nov 28, 2013 - 10:48am PT
Can you rent it rather than buying it? Thanks.
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
Shameless Plug



http://youtu.be/xn24RJf90s0
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