Assault on El Capitan now in limited release

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 67 of total 67 in this topic
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 19, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
We are now in limited release with a full roll out of DVD's and VOD coming in December.
There is also an opportunity for individuals and groups to host screenings.

This version is all new. After the Facelift and Bay Area screenings we listened to the audience and re-edited to tighten things, add some footage and clear up some fuzzy details.

Currently the film is only available on the Steep Edge website and we have gone from New Release last Thursday to Most Requested by Sunday. We also had a nice review on The Outdoor Times (UK) website. It seems Europe has followed this story.

http://www.steepedge.com
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Nov 20, 2013 - 08:33am PT
THANKS

RE this:
"You are purchasing this film/these films as a digital download or as an online rental."

This is an old computer without much room on it. How much hard drive space is needed? 10 lbs sterling heh....
Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin OC
Nov 20, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
Yes, please comment on the downloading techie stuff..
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Nov 20, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
the steepedge website has more info here.

they estimate 1.5-2 GB for a 1 hr. HD film with download times of 30-40 min. for a 5 MB/s connection and 2-3 hr. for a 1 MB/s connection.

Assault on El Capitan is 1:07 long and in HD...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 20, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
Steep edge? They're putting up a movie about the worlds biggest slab?
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Nov 20, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
What the f*#k are they talking about "the most controversial route" on el cap….


Is there a thread that details this "controversial" story?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 20, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
Is there a thread that details this "controversial" story?


Winner!
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
What the f*#k are they talking about "the most controversial route" on el cap….


Is there a thread that details this "controversial" story?

;), however...

Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 07:05pm PT
Okay, I just downloaded it and watched it. Been following it for 30 years so it was all as expected. What I took away from it was how cool Ron Kauk is (which I already knew) and how great Ammon treats Kait. :)
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 20, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
My special edition of Reservoir Dogs comes in a tiny gas can.

But I hate to think about the packaging design for the special edition of AoEC.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Nov 20, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
read the wings of steel debacle…


Wow.

Much ado about nothing.

the above screenshot pretty much clears it up.


Cheers
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Much ado about nothing.

Well, I don't know.

I got what is apparently the only copy of the book in the world autographed by both Richard Jensen and Mark Smith out of it all.

Bet Steve Grossman's pretty jealous about that...
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Nov 21, 2013 - 12:51am PT
Looks like a good film. Have downloaded and only perused it thus far, but lots of good interviews and it appears to be a pretty balanced perspective.

Really enjoyed Kauk's conversation about learning something from the event...
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Nov 21, 2013 - 01:26am PT
Yes, please comment on the downloading techie stuff..

Am in the process of downloading a 2.2 GB mp4 file ... 40 minute download at 870 K/sec.

£10.00 was $16 USD, Paypal.

Saw it recently at the Stanford showing. Great story!!!

edit: the DVD with extras will be even better!

MisterE

climber
Nov 21, 2013 - 01:30am PT
Thanks for that Rudder.

When is the movie coming out in hard copy?

It would be the perfect Christmas gift for two of our friends...
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 21, 2013 - 01:46am PT
Say Jeff, for those of us who paid into the kickstarter, is there a date by which we might see the hard copy? I'm feeling out of the loop, having not seen this thing yet...
Rivet hanger

Trad climber
Barcelona
Nov 21, 2013 - 07:23am PT
Downloading now. I look forward to see Jensen's beef-steak ears again!
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 21, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
Heck. Guess I'll pony up for the digital download as well. I need to see this...
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Nov 21, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
Can't wait to see it.
Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin OC
Nov 21, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
No chance of me downloading here at work if it takes that long. The shIT police will be in my office faster than they can say "Reboot".

Pleae announce when it comes out on DVD!!
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Nov 21, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Epilogue: just months after making this video, Ammon McNeely cratered while base jumping and had to tie off his foot with the parachute cord to avoid bleeding out. Now, for the almost first time, we take you live to watch the accident ...
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 21, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
I thought it was well done, kept my interest, and flowed nicely. It covered what has made the FAists notorious. But, what has always been of interest to me was not talked about, really. That a route so artificial in design... (and we could talk about AID in general ad nauseum at this point) and on such an iconic, revered, and majestic cliff that had such an amazing climbing history... should have quite justifiably have been strongly discouraged. An educational and reasonable dialog with the FAists seemed highly recommended, to me. But, the threats... (which are for sissies, but I haven't met too many climbers who are actually fighting tough guys (thank goodness), a solid overhand right would have made all those big talkers back down real quick like me thinks, but Mark and Richard were not exactly fighting tough guys either, hehe)... and pooping was the stuff of ladyboys. It made those people look foolish and their potential justifiable viewpoint look dubious, at best.

One other interesting point in the film, to me, was Mark Smith's comment about his reflection of his actions. By reading him online over the years he seems much more reasonable than Richard. Much less emotionally and personally attached. He doesn't come off like this route defines him as a person the way Richard does. And, yet... and yet he says he can't think of even one thing he could have done differently to avoid the controversy. What's that saying? If you still see things the same way you did 30 years ago, you just wasted 30 years. Or something like that. haha
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 21, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
Well Rudder, I appreciate what you're saying, and as I've considered all of this, a certain amount of it mirrors my own opinions. Though I would caution you regarding a judgment that Mark Smith wasted the past 30 years... You'd have to know him, see the good he's done, understand the impact that he's had on others. Having known him for several decades, if I am similar to who he is now when I reach his age, I will consider myself to have lived a well lived life indeed.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 21, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
I've read that through the years, which is why I was surprised by his remark...
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Nov 21, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
Gollum vs. dweezil(s). The dweezils come off better.
MSmith

Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 22, 2013 - 01:19am PT
Rudder, I find your last lengthy post to be mostly a lot of unfounded speculation.
That a route so artificial in design...and on such an iconic, revered, and majestic cliff that had such an amazing climbing history... should have quite justifiably have been strongly discouraged
Ah, yes. Iconic, majestic, even revered. Yes, yes, such a noble cliff must not be defiled by, gasp, an artificial line. Well, why did Toni Yaniro make a serious attempt up the heart of the slab back in the late 70's, leaving a bolt at his high point 200 ft off the deck? Tony, of course, was an insider, probably the first person to lead 5.13. So for him it's fine. But for those two inexperienced kids, Jensen and Smith, it is, well, "strongly discouraged."
the threats... (which are for sissies ... a solid overhand right would have made all those big talkers back down real quick like me thinks, but Mark and Richard were not exactly fighting tough guys
You have no idea what you are talking about, not a clue as to what happened, and what could have happened if it had played out differently.
One other interesting point in the film, to me, was Mark Smith's comment about his reflection of his actions. By reading him online over the years he seems much more reasonable than Richard. Much less emotionally and personally attached.
So, Rudder, what do you think about Rosa Parks? Let's see. She boarded that bus knowing what she was going to do, that she was going to take an open seat on a bus that would fill up. That she would be asked to move. That she would refuse. That she would be arrested. That she would be jailed. Doesn't that seem a little strident, a little controversial, a little unnecessary? Could she not simply have written some nice ladylike letters to the editor of the local paper. Or maybe even stretch herself a little and join a quiet march for civil rights. You know, be a little bit more like her sister and not create a stir? Who was the better person? Those who passively took it, or her?

At our core, Richard and I hold a very similar view. Our inward workings do not diverge as our outward personas might lead one to assume. In the end, it's been Richard's persistence to respond to the incredible flak, misstatements, and at times outright lies that has brought people into this discussion, a discussion that ultimately lead to the SA. Was the SA a good thing? Was it a good trip for Ammon and Kait? Is there any value in the film? Well, you can thank Richard that any of those things exist. I'm not much more reasonable. Rather, Richard is much less willing to be demeaned and dismissed without self defense. I don't see that as a negative.
And, yet... and yet he says he can't think of even one thing he could have done differently to avoid the controversy. What's that saying? If you still see things the same way you did 30 years ago, you just wasted 30 years.
First you laud me for WoS not defining my life (unlike that bad boy Richard). Then you trash the life that you lauded because of my perspective regarding WoS. Quite amazing logic.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 22, 2013 - 02:25am PT
Are you comparing yourself to Toni Yaniro? Really? ;)

And comparing yourself to Rosa Parks? Seriously? haha A slab climb compared to the plight of a race of people who were forced into slavery for centuries and did not have equal rights in this country until 1966? Alrighty then...

I'm not much more reasonable.

Evidently...

Oh and I apologize for using an expression that was meant to suggest we should develop a more seasoned outlook as we grow older but could be taken to mean something else. I've always thought you and Richard were good people, at least from what I've read of you. But, I was still surprised by your remark in the film. I mean even when I do something really well in my life, a project let's say, I can always think of a million things I could have done better.

As for Ammon... he brought a whole lot of credibility to the situation... which is nice. :)

MSmith

Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 22, 2013 - 02:42am PT
Tony tries slab. That's fine.
Jensen/Smith tries slab. That's to be strongly discouraged.
Conclusion: Smith equates himself with Yaniro.
Really?

Smith: People that make us feel uncomfortable often are people that make a difference, consider Rosa Parks.
Conclusion: Smith equates Jensen with Rosa Parks.
Really?
when I do something really well in my life, a project let's say, I can always think of a million things I could have done better.
What I intended to convey, in quote from the film to which you refer, is that from the time when we showed up in the Valley until we finished the route, we did everything within our power to avoid confrontation and controversy. You have extrapolated my statement far beyond what was meant. In your defense, perhaps my statement, which is taken out of a long interview, loses enough context to lead to your conclusion. Of course I would do some things differently in the larger context. But I don't think that, from the point we arrived to do the climb, we could have done anything to prevent the confrontation.
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 22, 2013 - 03:35am PT
Oh, howdy Mark. ;)

Listen, I was wondering, if I used a smiley face at the end of my sentences every time I made a demeaning statement, would you find the sincerity of those emoticons dubious? ;)

It seems disempowering to imply that it is unreasonable to be personally or emotionally attached to an important event in your life, or to argue on your own behalf, especially when ignoring the issue has not worked in your favor.

Of course I would do some things differently in the larger context. But I don't think that, from the point we arrived to do the climb, we could have done anything to prevent the confrontation.

I also get a vibe of "blaming the victim" from folk who imply that you and Richard could have or should have been responsible for these guys not harassing, vandalizing, threatening, or attempting physical injury to the two of you. I don't know if that was Rudder's intent in this case, though I do see it happen frequently in these threads.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 22, 2013 - 09:47am PT
But I don't think that, from the point we arrived to do the climb, we could have done anything to prevent the confrontation.

That's what I picked up from the film... that's the part that surprised me... that you would still think that.

This is the right thread and forum for making comments about the film, right? Just checking. ;)
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 22, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
There's trouble everywhere in life, but much of it can be avoided. Mark says that it was impossible to avoid. Sounds Grossmanish. And surprised me because of my speculation about Mark based on what I've read online. If Richard had said it I wouldn't have noticed. But Mark now says he's really actually like Richard. So okay, if I had known that I would not have been surprised.

outrageous? I guess you're suggesting my comments are more evocative than the story. But I've always found the story interesting. I've always thought it was a lot more than just a couple of guys minding their own business that were harassed. That would be a pretty boring story and that would make my comments merit-less .
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 22, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
I raise my toast made with Grainiac bread to you! :) And if you haven't tried Grainiac bread yet you are missing out. It actually is outrageous! :)
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 22, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Does anyone else think there is a "tempest in a teapot" element to this whole story? Such drama, so many recriminations......it is only a rock climb gentlemen and one of many on El Cap.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Nov 22, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
Jim, you hop onto WoS threads now and then to say the same thing. It's pretty transparent.

ALL of climbing amounts to a "tempest in a teapot," even all of yours. So, every time you float your "lofty" line, keep in mind that none of your own ascents matters in the slightest. Your chosen sword cuts all ways. So, nothing to see here, nothing to talk about, nothing to care about... none of it really matters, and that includes you.

Apparently WoS mattered to Ammon, Kait, Jeff, etc. Should it not have?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 22, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
WoS is a tempest in a teapot.

Cerro Torre is a bit more important.
(Don't freak. I thought the shitters were wrong)
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 22, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
I hope i am always transparent madbolter 1, that's why i don't have an avatar. Get your point though, it is important to them, i'll just keep my nose out of it.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Nov 22, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
"...more important..."

LOL None of it is "more important" on even a sliding scale. People have their preferences. End of story.

Oh, and we're all gonna die.

Oh, and 100 years from now (probably much sooner), nobody is gonna care about any of the "glory days" any of us have had.

Regarding all of the other opinions, Kait said it best (most important line in the movie): "Four people know what's up there; four people know what that route's about."

All the rest are talking heads.
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
Oh, and we're all gonna die.

Oh, and 100 years from now (probably much sooner), nobody is gonna care about any of the "glory days" any of us have had.

But we'll care what we did. And God will care what we did.

Living a meaningful life means deciding what, on a sliding scale, is most important to us, and living congruent with that.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
P5 Klaus, or so it is said in one of the 5,000 post on 29 different threads on the matter.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
What?? a bunch of hotshot motivated young guns got in a competitive turf war. Some of the folks might have been a bit threatening, rude or snotty....

LOL the only thing different about this than what happens almost everywhere in so many different "hoods" is no one got hurt.. just a bit of sh#t slinging (that's odd but certainly not unheard of).. several embarrassed individuals grew up and became at least semi-reasonable adults eventually.

Most of us grow up a bit as time goes on.

Guess I ought to get this film though..it's an interesting story if nothing else.
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
Rudder-

There's trouble everywhere in life, but much of it can be avoided. Mark says that it was impossible to avoid. Sounds Grossmanish.

I've always thought it was a lot more than just a couple of guys minding their own business that were harassed.

This is a classic example of blaming the victim. ;)

“They must have provoked their attackers into being abusive, or they wouldn't have been abusive. Both parties need to change.” ;)

This type of statement assumes that the victim is equally to blame for the abuse, when in reality, abuse is a conscious choice made by the abuser. ;)

The problem is that in the process you're perpetuating the classic pattern of marginalization and invalidation of Mark and Richard, arguing that either of them speaking to defend themselves is an indication that they are "too personally and emotionally attached and by extension unreasonable", and indicating to at least some extent tacit approval toward the people who seriously violated their basic rights and personal safety. ;)

A better choice might be to recognize that you do not have all of the information regarding these events, and that perhaps making public speculation about the "waste of 30 years" or various character flaws of these two based on nothing more than personal assumption of "how things _actually_ were" is unwarranted or unnecessary at best. ;)
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Some of the folks might have been a bit rude or snotty....

Throwing full beer cans from altitude at a person's head or surrounding them and telling them they would be killed in the woods and shipped out in a box is hardly just rude.

For what it's worth, the video is well put together, and has some great discussion from many of the folk closest to all of this. I highly recommend it, especially for the relatively low promotional cost it's up there for at the moment. =)
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
Rob told me that two factors contributed to them deciding to not continue:

1) Heat. That slab becomes a reflector oven, and they simply hadn't brought enough water.

2) Time. It was taking longer than they had expected.

Put 1 and 2 together and they just weren't going to make it with the water they had.

Of note is that Rob told me that he put together an article for Climbing magazine in which he tried to clear some things up based upon his observations, including the line, "... the most technical hooking I've ever seen, and very run out." Climbing rejected the article. "Bolt ladder" rumors persisted.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
Yep young competitive snot turf wars can get pretty nasty. Many times it can be much worse than this one. Didn't mean to downplay it as much as that sounded above. But it is not surprising that it happenned is all I'm saying.

Also to try to define those involved 30 years later based on what they did is a real disservice. I would expect most of them turned out to be pretty decent folk.
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 22, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Roger that bud. =)
Just unfortunate that it did. =/


And yes, I agree. I sure as heck hope people won't judge me for who I am at 50 based on who I was at 20.
Mind you, I do believe I'll have some people I want to apologize to by that point...
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 22, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Does anyone else think there is a "tempest in a teapot" element to this whole story?

I do... but nonetheless it has remained interesting to me. :)

Back to the tempest in a teapot comment... and at the risk of having him kick my ass... (which he could still do quite easily even at 60 with a broken leg, haha)... I thought John Long summed up this whole thing concisely and accurately in one of the other WOS threads:

"How could anyone ever look up the Super Slab (the start of WOS) and believe there was an authentic route there - authentic being a highly subjective word, granted. I see those 5 bolt belays and know these guys had way too much time on their hands. It's like the Gringo version of the compressor route on Cerro Torre, but less. Sh#t, I don't know, but I can't imagine spending so much time on so little.

JL"

I've wasted lots of time on little before, which is why I think I relate to this story. haha

Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 22, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
Guess I ought to get this film though..it's an interesting story if nothing else.

Another reason to get the film is that, to me, it is pretty well put together.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 22, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
This is a classic example of blaming the victim. ;)

I have a few dozen posts in the WOS threads through the years. I've always condemned the shitters. I would have been the first guy defending the FAists from anyone threatening or otherwise trying to physically harm them.
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
We are set up to bring Assault on El Capitan to your city. If you would like to host and event or be a part of our multi city tour please let me know and I will get you the details. This could be a fundraiser or benefit event.



Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 25, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
Jeff, how much are you charging for the promotional poster?
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
We haven't begun marketing ancillary items. Message me through FB or email and I have an answer for you.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Nov 26, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
The movie is good. It represents all the points of view well enough. It shows pieces of the second ascent and the Kait/Ammon situation even. It goes back far enough to even include me. Other older characters trot through too to wonderful effect.

Perhaps if one were to take the most critical stance with the film, it might be that the movie does not really resolve the Grossman side of the equation with Mark and Richard's variables. But it airs both sides well, leaving the viewer to make conclusions. It remains, in other words, fair and tries to maintain neutrality.

We don't get to the point where on a granular level what Ammon found up there on the route does or does not jive with Richard/Mark's descriptions. Ammon has basically stayed out of that examination anyway. And the film keeps out of the question if the route was actually a climb or a construction project or something that is not a climb, perhaps actually a divine enterprise of those two very young men. How their resulting book was heavily used in their church for their youth groups later on, and to what degree their total lack of socializing with the climbing community over years before and obviously since was part of that mission directly or indirectly and at apparently unimportant personal cost.. Since we are trying to look at all things here, lo these many years.

The film puts a very humane face on the whole story and the characters at play in it.
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 26, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
Howdy Peter, good to see you again.

The movie is good. It represents all the points of view well enough. It shows pieces of the second ascent and the Kait/Ammon situation even. It goes back far enough to even include me. Other older characters trot through too to wonderful effect.

Agreed. And a large part of what I enjoyed most about this film.

Perhaps if one were to take the most critical stance with the film, it might be that the movie does not really resolve the Grossman side of the equation with Mark and Richard's variables. But it airs both sides well, leaving the viewer to make conclusions. It remains, in other words, fair and tries to maintain neutrality.

In fact, I find this to be one of the movie's strongest aspects. I appreciate that a particular point of view is not pushed, and many are represented, allowing the viewer an informed space in which to make up their own mind about the matter.

We don't get to the point where on a granular level what Ammon found up there on the route does or does not jive with Richard/Mark's descriptions.


Thaaat, I agree with. It would have been good to hear what Ammon and Kait found, and how that compares with the FA account, especially given one of Grossman's biggest angles has been to accuse them of lying. However....

Ammon has basically stayed out of that examination anyway.

...however, I do believe he and Kait did mention this in the Rock and ice Climber account before, that with the exception of the bolt ladder that Mark and Richard disavowed, the hole count they encountered is almost exact.

And the film keeps out of the question if the route was actually a climb or a construction project or something that is not a climb, perhaps actually a divine enterprise of those two very young men. How their resulting book was heavily used in their church for their youth groups later on, and to what degree their total lack of socializing with the climbing community over years before and obviously since was part of that mission directly or indirectly and at apparently unimportant personal cost.. Since we are trying to look at all things here, lo these many years.

On this matter, it would have been good to hear Ammon and Kait's reflection on the experience a bit more in-depth.

I can understand to some degree how the religious and spiritual context and the interaction of the FA party with the climbing community since the climb was left out - it is not directly a part of the story of the first or second ascent. Though it would be an interesting avenue to explore. I will say, having been a student of Mark's and a good friend of his for years, I only heard him talk about Wings of Steel once, maybe twice in passing during my time in school with him. I'm pretty sure the whole episode flew completely under the radar of almost all of his students. I never experienced having the book pushed on me at any point, and in fact I only read the book a few years ago when I discovered (on my own) the WoS thread on Supertopo. Honestly, if I had read that book when I was still in high school, I can foresee an alternate reality in which I had joined the climbing club Mark set up at our school, and possibly have become an active climber from then until present. In a number of ways, I rather would have preferred that alternative.

The film puts a very humane face on the whole story and the characters at play in it.


Agreed.

An enjoyable review, thanks for the read.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Nov 26, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
And thank you Dweeb!

Their book, Richard's I should say, does in fact share their religious interests and in relatively generous frequency, mostly in the first half of the text. So, and since this book is really part of the whole morality play here, I consider that avoiding the huge social and religious differences at work here among these hundred or so individuals and all of us in following decades, is to not explain or understand fully that whole story. It might get queazy for most of us to "go there" though.

Today perhaps there are only a couple of men left in our community who would advocate for the mortal threats, crapping and crap-throwing Mark and Richard experienced. Back then obviously a few more adherents were in action with this most famous habit of the lower primates. That in some cases there were felonies committed by a very few merely reminds me of what it is like and has been like for over fifty years, surfing on the North Shore of Oahu and many thousands of other surf spots around the globe.

One of the costs to Mark and Richard's disinterest in our deep and detailed history and sociology in Camp Four was thorough misunderstanding by all involved. And M & R's lack of comprehension of how stuff can go down in C4 especially back in the day or in other male-dominated, high pressure subcultures was another cost. They obviously took it all as gospel, shall I say, when it was largely symbolic as most bullying ends up being. But territorialism, male-to-male aggression, and general ludicrous bullying is hardly a new phenomenon in so many types of situations still in our era and one floats best well above these bottom currents.

It is of course truly dismaying to almost all of us, especially today, that they experienced what they did from some of us. They simply were victims of alarming abuse. Like gay teens, like people of color in white districts, like what politically different individuals face in big gatherings of their opponents. The list goes on, need I say.

To many today, it is also regretful that with their dedication, energy and resources they chose to put up such a strange thirteen pitch climb instead of ascending other terrain that would have given them more chance at satisfying free play for their talents. They suffered in so many ways, didn't they.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 26, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
Their book, Richard's I should say, does in fact shares their religious interests and in relatively generous frequency, mostly in the first half of the text. So, and since this book is really part of the whole morality play here, I consider that avoiding the huge social and religious differences at work here among these hundred or so individuals and all of us in following decades, is to not explain or understand fully that whole story. It might get queazy for most of us to "go there" though.

Today perhaps there are only a couple of men left in our community who would advocate for the mortal threats, crapping and crap-throwing Mark and Richard experienced. Back then obviously a few more adherents were in action with this most famous habit of the lower primates. That in some cases there were felonies committed by a very few merely reminds me of what it is like and has been like for over fifty years, surfing on the North Shore of Oahu and many thousands of other surf spots around the globe.

One of the costs to Mark and Richard's disinterest in our deep and detailed history and sociology in Camp Four was thorough misunderstanding by all involved. And M & R's lack of comprehension of how stuff can go down in C4 especially back in the day or in other male-dominated, high pressure subcultures was another cost. They obviously took it all as gospel, shall I say, when it was largely symbolic as most bullying ends up being. But territorialism, male-to-male aggression, and general ludicrous bullying is hardly a new phenomenon in so many types of situations still in our era and one floats best well above these bottom currents.

It is of course truly dismaying to almost all of us, especially today, that they experienced what they did from some of us. They simply were victims of alarming abuse. Like gay teens, like people of color in white districts, like politically different individuals face in big gatherings of their opponents. The list goes on, need I say.

To many today, it is also regretful that with their dedication, energy and resources they chose to put up such a strange 13 pitch climb instead of ascending other terrain that would have given them more chance at satisfying free play for their talents. They suffered in so many ways, didn't they.

What he said. :)
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Nov 26, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
I appreciate your perspective, Peter, as well as your contributions to the film. There are a few things I would like to correct, however.

"Largely symbolic" seems like a strange comment to me. There is a lot of additional information that has not made it out into public, but, trust me, there was nothing symbolic, largely or otherwise, to the threats and actual felonious acts. And what turned the tide is not something I'll get into here. But there are a few that know the whole story, because they were affected by how things almost turned out... of course, they aren't saying anything either. LOL

The route is not 10 pitches. It's 13 pitches. On a related note, since it often comes up alongside this sort of mistake (although not in your particular post) is that the slab is not 900 feet tall. We ran the rope virtually out (165 feet) on all but one pitch (135 feet, as I remember), and the route does not meander much. We put the slab at right about 1200 feet. In toto, there's at least 1600 feet of climbing on the route.

And, we were not "pushed" into Aquarian; that is exactly where we intended to end up from the inception of the route. Anybody looking at that area with binoculars or telescope will clearly see that the slab funnels to a "point" right about where Horse Chute cuts over (and we shared an anchor with it at the top of the slab). Then there is an obvious crack system leading up and LEFT that ultimately ends about 50 feet from Aquarian. This was the route we planned, and it quite obviously ends in Aquarian. Nothing "ad hoc" about it.

Finally, contrary to speculations, what that slab had to offer is exactly what we were seeking. It's not like we couldn't "find" something that would have been "better." That is question-begging thinking, because people only know how to think about crack systems. But we weren't even seeking just another route that followed crack systems. We were seeking something to "push us" in ways that conventional gear in crack systems just cannot do. And we found what we were seeking and more. As Kait said, only four people know what that route is about.

Regarding the religious content of the book, if anything this should completely undo the claim that we were "hyping" the route. The climbing community basically didn't know the book existed for a long, long time; and it wasn't marketed to the climbing community. By the time the book had come out, we had abandoned any thought of getting fair or even reasonable treatment from the powers that were in the climbing community, especially in publishing. The book's publication into the Christian community was a natural outworking of our experiences....

We had given slide shows in various churches, and we were encouraged to write a Christian "take" on the experience, which is what I ultimately did. I would write a different book today. Maybe there would even be a different audience for it. But for climbers today to now evaluate the book qua "climbing book" is like a non sequitur. I obviously tried to explain a lot of things climbing-relevant, as I figured that this would be the only "canonical tale" we got to tell. But it is certainly not cast TO climbers.

Again, thank you for your contributions to the discussion and the film. I have nothing but respect for you.
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
It's great to hear the debate about the film and what it does and does not do. That kind of discussion is what I as a filmmaker strive for. A film that people interpret the same material in different ways. I don't like to weigh in on what I did and why I did it, though during Q&A at screenings I have been more open in that type of forum.

There has been talk about the threads of the film and where we could have gone. Those are interesting discussions and decisions had to be made, but ultimately we had a story we wanted to tell and tried to stay true to that end.

The people who appeared in the film were amazing and gratious, giving and forthcoming. I am eternally grateful. I could name each one and tell you exactly the important comtribution each made. Much interview footage did not make the film but that information helped shape the story.

We have found that we have an international audience which shows how legendary Yosemite climbing is. On the Euro website that is offering downloads we are the number 1 most popular film and after only one week are one of their most popular films of 2013.

We are organizing a US threatrical tour of the film and look forward to taking this on the road. If you want us to come to your city. let me know.

This was my career First Ascent.....
Da_Dweeb

climber
Nov 28, 2013 - 01:30am PT
Way to go, Wolf. =)

I'm glad to hear that your hard work is paying off.
I hope you feel a sense of pride about it all. =)
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Nov 28, 2013 - 10:48am PT
Can you rent it rather than buying it? Thanks.
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
Shameless Plug



http://youtu.be/xn24RJf90s0
Reedly

Social climber
The High Desert, CA
Mar 1, 2014 - 11:16pm PT
I purchased a download of this some time ago and didn't get around to watching it until yesterday. I enjoyed it a lot. I liked the historical perspective of the route being established and the modern perspective of Ammon's ascent.

And Ammon's brother was interesting to see as well. Clearly those McNeely boys had a good upbringing with lots of opportunities for romping around in the hills and adventuring. Everyone should be as lucky.
Psilocyborg

climber
Mar 2, 2014 - 01:56am PT
The overdramatic reaction was just as stupid as the climb. The world is full of stupid people.
10b4me

Sport climber
www.tenbeephotography.com
Mar 17, 2014 - 12:23am PT
I watched this last night, at the SoCal premier. I thought it was a good movie. Peter, I thought your remarks, as well as those of CMac, Florine, Klaus, and Kauk, were reasonable, and rational.
Thank you.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 17, 2014 - 01:51am PT
Perhaps we can say all these years later and with all the changes since, a Wings of Steel incident could not happen again in the Valley today.

And this probably means anywhere, at least at this grand scale.

People as different from the rest of the climbing corps as Richard and Mark were, probably will have quite a bit more room to work on their conjectures. Crazed termitic locals might not try to hurt them and won't feel they have to protect anything by bullying and abuse.

And the obvious: Yosemite is really now in the hands of our greatest virtuosi while the original notion of adventure is sought quite some distance from the pizza deck these days. It is getting close to having run its course, even, in this world, as an essential mythologizing for man. We will be turning longing eyes to those peaks on Mars, other planets, and their moons.

It is only expected. Mountaineering and climbing as we know it, all began at the end of the seventeenth century when we emerged horrified by the first round of the Industrial Revolution and the Age of Reason. These remote realms--the Alps for instance--- were no longer the home of dragons and forces of evil but instead were now seen as the refuge and remainders of the earth that we had not ruined and which would in various ways restore us with the emerging concepts of freedom. This was the Romantic Conjecture and we still many of us engage it to justify our devotion, however grim and extreme, to its notions.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Oct 25, 2014 - 11:33am PT
I finally watched the movie last night with plenty of commentary from my buddies also watching that have also been up on the Big Stone. What a trip. Having climbed the Dihedral Wall twice, I spent a fair amount of time looking at that slab, including a failed attempt where we got to rappel down the slab from the triangular ceiling bivi. This rap was in 69, the first climb was in 72 and the last in 77 solo. I could certainly imagine wanting to put some hooks to work there and I am sure I did imagine doing something there - hard not to - in a sea of improbability like that one. I guess Wings happened in 81? Apparently there is the issue of whether or not there is a 'line' there, and the 'outsider without permission issue'. Ha, the 'line' was almost in the sand. Never would have known about it without Supertopo. Cheers to all involved (almost all that is!). I did want to see more of the climbing though. Oh well, the route is there to do.......maybe just a couple pitches will be enough......

Edit; Ordered a copy of Wings of Steel from Amazon - $18.00. Should be fun.
l-b-1

climber
new york
Nov 4, 2014 - 06:22am PT
just watched the movie. Gabe and Ammon are a delight to listen to amidst all that sh#t.

it's so funny to see what kind of a person this small chinned bald dude with the slimy voice is. other than being a name on ST that seems to have some issues and craves a lot of respect for some variations he did on el cap. it is unfortunate.

explains a lot of posts, like 1000 or what?

the world is a mindf*#k. it looks like the hardest thing in climbing is not doing well but keeping it in perspective.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Nov 4, 2014 - 10:18am PT
Great comments Peter Haan. Thoughtful, sharp. As usual, an excellent "perspective" on the whole deal.

Watched the movie a few months ago. Made for a great tribute to Ammon and Kait.

Not so much content about the controversy over Wings of Steel creation; the way it went up, the way it and its climbers were treated, and as I recall, nothing about the hole count versus the natural placement count. I'd have appreciated more detail from Ammon about how many enhanced placements he encountered versus natural ones. Ammon did keep pretty good track and the R&I article had a lot of detail about the numbers.

Steve Grossman had a couple soundbites; he comes off sounding over-harsh but the film makers give little context/background to judge his criticisms against. In fairness, if the movie were my project, I'd have been utterly gripped about fairly representing such different opinions--and anger, still, to this day--within one movie.

Also, I recall no mention of the various other attempts. Didn't Rob Slater make it up about five pitches, in two days (plus a fixed pitch or two)? And someone else quite a few pitches in just one day?

But, as with Valley Uprising, perhaps a movie works better if it tries to be inspiring and upbeat rather than digging deep into old, stale dirt and attempting an encyclopedic accounting of old scores.

Anyway, excellent movie about Ammon and Kait. What a great team and a fine effort in achieving the second ascent of what might the most continuously insecure aiding on El Capitan. A route where reaching the top is only the start of the real work: assessing--judging, to an El Kaftaesque inquisition--what you found en route.
Messages 1 - 67 of total 67 in this topic
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta