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Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 23, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
Hand jobs and live scat play... The Chief and Rong will be there in drag.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
We interrupt this hijacking for actual screening announcements:
 Friday October 4th, Doors open 7:30 PM, Show 8:00 PM,Lafayette Library and Learning Center (Community Room), Lafayette, CA, tickets $7

And have fun at the premier tonight at Facelift!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Sep 26, 2013 - 02:15am PT
Wow! It finally worked. Greetings from the frogs eggs pitch just below the stellar heroin/horse chute. This aft i observed below me with binocs Steve Grossman in his pink cap and crew attempt to climb WoS. They couldnt do the first bulge which is v hard and bailed. Guy in white top tried. Yellow piglet. Who wrre they and why? They would not even return my shouts. Have close up pix and movies.

So how was the movie??? Are mark and richard finally vindicated?? Did steve g get boo'd???

Do tell all!!!111. So sorry i missed it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 26, 2013 - 11:38am PT
The real, true-life, action adventure parable of the Lamb, the Goat and the Enormous Obstacle---Coming to a theater near you!

Oh, and I need to add the Weasel so Pete feels included. LOL

The conspicuous absence of Piles of Pre-Pubescent Pink Ponies this morning is telling...

The Wannabes they remain.

Sep 26, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
Loved the film. BUT, WTF was the deal? It left many people wondering just what the controversy was about. Near as I can remember, which is most likely wrong, some felt the FA party was over using hammers and chipping hook holds, But this was never mentioned.

Come on, you gonna make a film about a sh#t show, then tell what the sh#t was about man!
Was it really just turf and religion? That's lame.

Kudos to Ammon and Kait, very brave thing they both did there.

But the most important question I have at this moment is; Is Gabe single?

Ice climber
Soon 2B Flagstaff
Sep 26, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Awesome!...Cant wait to see it down here in LA!


Sep 26, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Eeyup, looking forward to the Costa Mesa screening.

I'm not sure why piles of pink prepubsecent ponies would be pertinent; perhaps prefigurative of a pompous prefect of preethical policing of the pompier planning to primp and preen pretentiously, were I to prognosticate.

Regardless, which of these ponies are YOU?

Credit: Da_Dweeb

Social climber
The internet
Sep 26, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
The thread was so bad they made a movie, scripted verbatim from it - gawd awful.

If they had removed everyone but the FA, Grossman as as#@&%e protagonist and Gabe "I snorted the whole kilo" as Ammon's spokesperson to let us know in a less tedious way that some "rad falls" were taken on the repeat - the film could have risen to a C/C+. Nobody else had anything to add.

I really don't understand how the FA got dragged into this by a bunch of jealous and bitter trolls who had not been on the route. Go repeat the route, if you can, and get back to us - done - goodbye. I was impressed by their story, sounded badass. They came across as genuine, smart, mature and humble. I was not impressed to see them swimming around in the mud with a bunch of self important fools.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 26, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
They came across as genuine, smart, mature and humble. I was not impressed to see them swimming around in the mud with a bunch of self important fools.

Good point.

Sep 27, 2013 - 01:06am PT
At this point, I suspect they're much happier if getting in the mud with the trolls is the major criticism they face. =)

Amazing how things change in 1/2 decade.

( And personally, I agree with your assessment of them. =D )

Credit: Da_Dweeb
susan peplow

Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 27, 2013 - 01:49am PT
Julia, all the guys were talking about sexy Gabe too!
Gabe Mcneely
Gabe Mcneely
Credit: WOS Premier footage

Want more????

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Sep 27, 2013 - 02:10am PT
Very much enjoyed but still left scratching my head about the whole controversy....but oh yeah the Gabe thing, nothing left wondering about there!

Social climber
Portland, Oregon
Sep 27, 2013 - 03:15am PT
Stumptown please! Hollywood theater would be a perfect venue.
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Sep 30, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Ammon and Kait will be at the Lafayette screening for Q & A after the screening.

Tkts are selling fast. Woohoo.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Oct 1, 2013 - 02:09am PT
I enjoyed the movie and thought it was pretty interesting. It is primarily interviews as there was very little climbing footage. There was a strong audible reaction from the audience during the footage of Ammon trying to find hook placements that would hold.

I thought it was a bit long, but still more interesting for me than many of the other shows during the week.

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Oct 1, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
When and where is the Orange County screening?

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 1, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Well written, Ed, and interesting. But, for me, I give them all that. Putting up the route with a disregard for the climbing community ethic and then wanting respect from same, that's just how people are. What continues to be the crux of it for me is all this over a janky, at the way outer limits of artificial, tedious and unaesthetic climb.

Climbing is for not. And has its own made up rules and ethics. But, if you want to climb for the sake of climbing they are a necessary baggage. We don't want people placing a line of bolts top to bottom on beautiful cliffs, then what? clamping tracks to the bolts?, then an elevator to the tracks? That is easy to see as too artificial (and yet some would do it and have come close). Most of us don't want to climb bare foot without any gear or ropes, only upclimbing what we can downclimb, either. That is easy to see as too natural (and yet some purists will only climb that way).

Those guys probably did that slab in the best possible style that it could be done. But, that was still about how artificial they were going to make it (which again they probably made it about the least artificial they could have). And, it was still going to be this unaesthetic tedious climb. They did get notoriety, they did get to suffer and martyr along for their climb which they tie into same for their religious beliefs. And, maybe that's really the best they could have done. I don't know. They say there is a psychological payoff for most things we continue to do or we'd stop doing them. But, I'm no psychologist. But, I wonder if they would now be happier if they had put all that energy and intelligence (because you can't deny that they are smarter than the average climber, haha) into putting up the most esthetic route on El Cap, something akin to the Salathe, only harder, let's say? Or could the answer be no? This route, their downgrading of other routes; what did they take from climbing, and what did they give?

* Anytime you alter the rock it is in fact controversial.
* They had just as much right as anyone to put up a route on El Cap or anywhere else.
* Should an unaesthetic, on the ragged edge of what the community saw as artificial, climb been discouraged no matter who was talking about putting it up? Yes.
* Should things have ever gone past an initial discouragement of the idea through brief discussions about history and ethics? No.
* Would they have finished the climbing without all the harassment? A good question.
* If they had finished without any harassment (criminal harassment I must say) and the community yawned and moved on... if the Steve Grossmans could see a glimpse of that future; wouldn't that have wished they would have gone that route? A long forgotten unaesthetic route... like so many other no star routes in the Valley and around the world. ?

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 2, 2013 - 04:29am PT
Putting up the route with a disregard for the climbing community ethic and then wanting respect from same, that's just how people are.

See how easily utter crap becomes "received wisdom?"

What continues to be the crux of it for me is all this over a janky, at the way outer limits of artificial, tedious and unaesthetic climb.

LOL... if you can really believe that "all this" really IS just over a janky (blah, blah, blah), then you really are clueless about "the story," even Ed's version of it, and human nature. But, then, that would sort of TOTALLY unfit you to be a talking head anybody should bother to take seriously.

All this talk about martyrdom and religion and so forth. Are you serious? Do you really believe the garbage you write, just because you write it?

Seriously, dude, you have NO idea what you are talking about, which just makes you into another "talking head" with exactly ZERO firsthand knowledge about which to talk. If you want to know what I think or what motivates me, just ask. I'll be honest, and that's about the best evidence you'll get upon which to form opinions about me. By contrast, if you think that your speculations make you look all "in the know" or perceptive, I'm here to tell you that you just look foolish because you're OBVIOUSLY speculating, and you are literally incorrect.

And if you don't care enough to ask, then you shouldn't care enough to post. If it doesn't matter, then why are you here? And if it does matter, then you should care enough to be accurate in what you say. Any way you cut it, your post was just another in a long chain of posts by "talking heads" that can't be bothered enough with the truth to be taken seriously (even by themselves). Yet, amazingly, they just keep talking....

I guess THAT's "just how people are."

Ahh, the delicious irony contained just within your post. It's the one pleasure that can be derived from such nonsense.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 2, 2013 - 05:25am PT
I want my money back now.

Rivet hanger

Trad climber
Oct 2, 2013 - 10:15am PT
My God, Richy and his proverbial synthesis skill are back!
I just want to know if the movie will be included in Reel Rock Tour 2014 or if you plan to come to Europe. If so, Richy should be included in the trip, at least we could teach him how to use a wood wedge + a piton and a leadhead. And of course, the difference between bathooks/batheads and natural feautes of the rock and A5 and A3+... I hope all these things are explained on the film, which would make it more interesting than the book!
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