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Messages 1 - 103 of total 103 in this topic
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 4, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
When are you coming to Denver, Boulder?????
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
We are beginning the scheduling of screenings. Right now we are preparing to announce San Francisco and Los Angeles.

We would love to have additional screenings we are always on the lookout for venues, show sponsors and to partner with non profit climbing related organizations.
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Sep 5, 2013 - 02:02am PT
bump
Nanook

climber
Sep 5, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
Woot!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Sep 5, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
You should screen it in Boston or North Conway. New England folks want to see this as well.
Cole

Trad climber
los angeles
Sep 5, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
This is awesome, can't wait to see the film. I'll even drive to LA from Joshua Tree if need be. Hope your screening goes well and keep us updated on additional dates.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 5, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
If I will miss the events, any CD's be available and when?
thanks for your work, and congratulations that it is over..
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Sep 5, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
October 1
7:30pm
Rock Ice & Mountain Club
Santa Rosa, CA

http://www.rockicemountain.org/

http://www.rockicemountain.org/assault-on-el-capitan/
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 5, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
When will you be showing this at my house?
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 11:39am PT
There will not be a San Francisco screening......It seems someone into "Sports" who appears to be in a "Basement" saw the 3 minute trailer and said "I think the tone of this film might not be right for our customers" I actually laughed....judgement after the trailer? OK. I won't argue their ball, their game.

So we will be doing a screening on the Peninsula and will announce a date very soon.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 9, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
So do one in Moab, instead!
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
Moab would be great! I'd love to do a Colorado & Utah tour. Just need a venue and would love to partner with a local climbing related non profit
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 9, 2013 - 02:52pm PT

How about the AMC (American Mountaineering Center), in Golden, CO.
Home of the Colorado Mountain Club, the American Alpine Club, and
the American Mountaineering Center. What a great fit!
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
Sounds perfect. I'll look into it.

Thanks
MisterE

climber
Sep 9, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
Psyched for the Facelift screening!
Prod

Trad climber
Sep 9, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
Neptune should host one in Boulder.

Prod.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
this pic is too good not to share

Thx Jeff.


photo credit: Kait Barber?
photonez

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Sep 12, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
I'll be looking for the Peninsula screening. Woohoo!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 12, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
Outdoor Week in the black hills could use another event.
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Sep 14, 2013 - 12:57am PT
Message me or catch me at the screenings and we can talk. We'll book screenings where ever there is enough interest and the logistics work out. Very soon we will start the festival circuit then the distributors take over and then we'll see where it goes.

So Calif screenings are being finalized. Looks like it might be West LA and Orange County and maybe down to San Diego.
ec

climber
ca
Sep 14, 2013 - 03:39am PT
"You sendin' The Wolf?"
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Sep 14, 2013 - 05:16am PT
"Sh#t yeah negro, that's all you had to say"
Fishcake

Trad climber
SANTA ANA
Sep 17, 2013 - 05:09am PT
When's the LA screening? I will definitely make time for this.
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Sep 17, 2013 - 11:34am PT
We have two locations. One in West LA an the other in Orange County, We are working out the dates now. I will post, tweet and do everything I can to get the word out,

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Sep 17, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Assault on El Capitan?

I prefer to think of it as meditating WITH El Capitan.....HA!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Sep 17, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Does this screening come with a free hand job?
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 17, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
You couldn't pay me enough to see it... not even in hand jobs.
ec

climber
ca
Sep 17, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
Off White, that was an off color remark!
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Sep 17, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
You couldn't pay me enough to see it... not even in hand jobs.

Then why even waste your time clicking on this? Much less posting? Just to spread some negativity?

j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Sep 17, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
I can't wait to see it.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 19, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
You couldn't pay me enough to see it... not even in hand jobs.

Then why even waste your time clicking on this? Much less posting? Just to spread some negativity?

+1!
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Sep 19, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
Yeah Wes. Why the negativity?

I think the story is compelling in many ways. I enjoyed the book a lot. I happened to be in the Valley when all this went down. I thought it was great when Ammon had the courage to actually go up there and see for himself and actually finish the route. I hope the film comes to Salt Lake sometime. I think one of the gyms may be interested in sponsoring, at least it's an idea.

I do agree that the title is unfortunate. Rather than assaulting El Cap I think they were more like slab whisperers.
Heffey

Trad climber
Nashville, TN
Sep 19, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
Nashville, TN please.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 19, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
Nice Ammon!



Its destined for classic status im sure!



edit: as far as wes goes, i thought this from another thread , to be appropriate here.





Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal

Sep 19, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Wessie,,I was going to say it was ODD that you and your friends always seem to be getting their butts kicked or threatened by guns and so on, but then i considered your internet persona around here and it all makes perfect sense to me now...


Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 19, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
We are making final arrangements for screening it at Stanford.
Should be announced soon.
Michael Nicholson

Big Wall climber
Thousand Oaks
Sep 20, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
Awesome!...Cant wait to see it down here in LA!
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Sep 20, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
Then why even waste your time clicking on this? Much less posting? Just to spread some negativity?

BINGO!
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 20, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Yeah Wes. Why the negativity?

The name caught my eye. If I had read the (Wings of Steel) part, I never would have clicked it. I find aid climbing just slightly less interesting than ice climbing, especially on slabs.

But, since I was here and saw Off White's off color remark about hand jobs and couldn't resist.

I'm sure it will be good fun... if you are into that sort of thing... even without hand jobs.



(And Ron, why would you encourage me to "go Bash Ammon and his route movie some more." What do you have against Ammon?)
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 20, 2013 - 10:49pm PT

I love it, Mike! "slab whisperers!"
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Sep 20, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
Any word on the DVD's?
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Sep 20, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
Post a trailer. Generate some buzz.

JL
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 21, 2013 - 05:42am PT

from back in April. Runs to 3:28.
sempervirens

climber
Sep 21, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
I'm a bit confused by the trailer posted above. Is this film about the first ascent or the second ascent?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 21, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
The footage on the climb is from the second ascent.
However, they also interview the first ascent guys as a background to understand about the climb.
[see Ammon's answer below, though - he knows more about it than I do!]
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 21, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
a fascinating tale, of doers, doo doers and much more! Cant wait to see it.. DVDS a must!


The DRAMA, the INNUENDO, the INSULTS, the meetings of the minds, this will have it ALL! Dastardly deeds included! Ahhhh the Valley in ALL if its glory!!!
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Sep 21, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
"I had a paper sack of human feces explode above me"
So his El Cap experience was pretty typical.
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Sep 21, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
I'll paraphrase [from the trailer]...

"When I first saw El Cap, when I was about 13 years old, I said to myself, 'I have to do a first ascent on that'"

Really? When I was 13, I said to myself, "I'd like to see Mary Beth's boobs."
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 22, 2013 - 11:09am PT
And at 13, Mary Beth's chest was probably more featured.

(That's 8 bumps that can be attributed to my smart ass, not including Mary Beth's. You are welcome.)
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Sep 22, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
when is the Stanford screening? I'll try to make it to that one
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Sep 22, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
Assault on El Capitan?

I prefer to think of it as meditating WITH El Capitan.....HA!

I do agree that the title is unfortunate. Rather than assaulting El Cap I think they were more like slab whisperers.

I was a little confused with the title in the beginning, as well. I believe it doesn't have anything to do with assaulting El Cap. It's the assault to the FA team on El Cap... but, I could be wrong.

Wolf?
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Sep 22, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
I'm a bit confused by the trailer posted above. Is this film about the first ascent or the second ascent?

Both ascents.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 22, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
klaus,
when is the Stanford screening? I'll try to make it to that one
[Update:]
Monday, November 4, 7pm at the Clark Auditorium
(below ground level, enter from center of brick courtyard).
This is where we had Reel Rock 7 in 2012.
Free and open to the public.
google map

http://alpineclub.stanford.edu/
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Sep 23, 2013 - 12:56am PT
Well this is a slippery slope that can never reach any level of resolution. So I will stay out of a debate about the title. At least on a forum. Catch me in Yosemite or at a screening and we can have a beer and discuss it all.

Jeff
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Sep 23, 2013 - 08:01am PT
Nice call about that part jeff. Haters gonna hate seems apropo here:-) Looking forward to this flick.





Wechrist/mechrist/Douchchrist said:
"If I had read the (Wings of Steel) part, I never would have clicked it. "

F*#k yeah dude, it's hard to read more than 4 words in a row in a title. My advise is to stick to the Weschrist reader (below) wherein you only have 3 words max (including those pesky commas and you can skip the last line there with 4 words) and preaching angry leftist politics which you seem so assured is correct to the unwashed on Dr F's "Why republicans are lame thread". Leave being an intellectual to your betters (ie, everyone else).







I'm with Mike Fredricks who noted:
"I think the story is compelling in many ways."
Not the least of which was that all the mechrist/haters of the world with their petty opinions were weighing in on Supertopo about the FA much like they were preaching politics to the great unwashed, when Ammon quietly went up, did it, and shut them all up. Thus ending the 2nd lamest climbing thread to ever be started on ST. #1) see Sean Jones/Doug Robinson Half Dome experience: alternatively titled "Why climbing is good but we never post on Supertopo". - sadly.

I propose a name change for this film: "Ammon: Man of action or man of Steel?" LOL. Anyone else have a title suggestion?





eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Sep 23, 2013 - 08:16am PT
Uhhhhhhh. . . the title. . . it's all about the use of the preposition, ON. . . not OF!

Pretty basic use of the English language, eh?

A N D . . . about mechrist, he needs help changing his diaper . . . he's had poopy pants for a very, very long time!

The Chief

climber
From the Land of the Mongols
Sep 23, 2013 - 09:39am PT
Kudos Ammon and Mary.... Kudos. Not just for getting on it but for getting to the truth of the hatefest.



Looks all too familiar. At least the lower p's.


I will wait for the dvd to see how much of the lower section "evolved".










Amazing how a pastime such as we do turned into a form of "local" jihad and hate. You figure that after the WOML debacle, some would have learned. Nope.


SAD to say the least at some of the admissions that have come out regarding the FA and FA Team (Richard and Mark) since the SA. All over a stinking route....

WBraun

climber
Sep 23, 2013 - 10:47am PT
In the film trailer are many goatee wearing people.

In order to do hard El Cap assaulting one must first get goatee and beer?

:-)
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 23, 2013 - 11:38am PT
I don't know why you all try to provoke me here. There are plenty of other threads to ruin with this crap. I mean why would you want to ruin Ammon's thread? He got some free bumps from one harmless smart ass comment. Bring it on fukheads... I can ruin any thread... I got nothing to lose.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 23, 2013 - 11:41am PT
poor wittle poopy pants lol!
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 23, 2013 - 11:44am PT
Go stuff something dead Rong.

I suppose I could bomb this thread like the original team on WoS... if that is what you all want.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Sep 23, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
In the film trailer are many goatee wearing people.

In order to do hard El Cap assaulting one must first get goatee and beer?

Werner - a goatee may be necessary but I am proof that is not sufficient.
WBraun

climber
Sep 23, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
I thought I could make a bump joke for Ammon?

I love Ammon he's a wonderful guy.

What happened to this mechrist guy? lol

Did his cat pee into his granola this morning?
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 23, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
Hand jobs and live scat play... The Chief and Rong will be there in drag.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 25, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
We interrupt this hijacking for actual screening announcements:
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2233798/RIM-Club-October-1-Assault-on-El-Capitan
  http://www.rockicemountain.org/assault-on-el-capitan/
 Friday October 4th, Doors open 7:30 PM, Show 8:00 PM,Lafayette Library and Learning Center (Community Room), Lafayette, CA, tickets $7
 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2235474/screening-Assault-on-El-Capitan-Stanford-11-4-2013

And have fun at the premier tonight at Facelift!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Sep 26, 2013 - 02:15am PT
Wow! It finally worked. Greetings from the frogs eggs pitch just below the stellar heroin/horse chute. This aft i observed below me with binocs Steve Grossman in his pink cap and crew attempt to climb WoS. They couldnt do the first bulge which is v hard and bailed. Guy in white top tried. Yellow piglet. Who wrre they and why? They would not even return my shouts. Have close up pix and movies.

So how was the movie??? Are mark and richard finally vindicated?? Did steve g get boo'd???

Do tell all!!!111. So sorry i missed it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 26, 2013 - 11:38am PT
The real, true-life, action adventure parable of the Lamb, the Goat and the Enormous Obstacle---Coming to a theater near you!

Oh, and I need to add the Weasel so Pete feels included. LOL

The conspicuous absence of Piles of Pre-Pubescent Pink Ponies this morning is telling...

The Wannabes they remain.
hossjulia

climber
Sep 26, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
Loved the film. BUT, WTF was the deal? It left many people wondering just what the controversy was about. Near as I can remember, which is most likely wrong, some felt the FA party was over using hammers and chipping hook holds, But this was never mentioned.

Come on, you gonna make a film about a sh#t show, then tell what the sh#t was about man!
Was it really just turf and religion? That's lame.

Kudos to Ammon and Kait, very brave thing they both did there.

But the most important question I have at this moment is; Is Gabe single?
10b4me

Ice climber
Soon 2B Flagstaff
Sep 26, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Awesome!...Cant wait to see it down here in LA!

+1
Da_Dweeb

climber
Sep 26, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Eeyup, looking forward to the Costa Mesa screening.

I'm not sure why piles of pink prepubsecent ponies would be pertinent; perhaps prefigurative of a pompous prefect of preethical policing of the pompier planning to primp and preen pretentiously, were I to prognosticate.

Regardless, which of these ponies are YOU?

Credit: Da_Dweeb
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Sep 26, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
The thread was so bad they made a movie, scripted verbatim from it - gawd awful.

If they had removed everyone but the FA, Grossman as as#@&%e protagonist and Gabe "I snorted the whole kilo" as Ammon's spokesperson to let us know in a less tedious way that some "rad falls" were taken on the repeat - the film could have risen to a C/C+. Nobody else had anything to add.

I really don't understand how the FA got dragged into this by a bunch of jealous and bitter trolls who had not been on the route. Go repeat the route, if you can, and get back to us - done - goodbye. I was impressed by their story, sounded badass. They came across as genuine, smart, mature and humble. I was not impressed to see them swimming around in the mud with a bunch of self important fools.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 26, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
They came across as genuine, smart, mature and humble. I was not impressed to see them swimming around in the mud with a bunch of self important fools.

Good point.
Da_Dweeb

climber
Sep 27, 2013 - 01:06am PT
At this point, I suspect they're much happier if getting in the mud with the trolls is the major criticism they face. =)

Amazing how things change in 1/2 decade.

( And personally, I agree with your assessment of them. =D )

Credit: Da_Dweeb
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 27, 2013 - 01:49am PT
Julia, all the guys were talking about sexy Gabe too!
Gabe Mcneely
Gabe Mcneely
Credit: WOS Premier footage

Want more???? http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=298608&tn=20
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Sep 27, 2013 - 02:10am PT
Very much enjoyed but still left scratching my head about the whole controversy....but oh yeah the Gabe thing, nothing left wondering about there!
Susan
froodish

Social climber
Portland, Oregon
Sep 27, 2013 - 03:15am PT
Stumptown please! Hollywood theater would be a perfect venue.
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
Sep 30, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Ammon and Kait will be at the Lafayette screening for Q & A after the screening.

Tkts are selling fast. Woohoo.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Oct 1, 2013 - 02:09am PT
I enjoyed the movie and thought it was pretty interesting. It is primarily interviews as there was very little climbing footage. There was a strong audible reaction from the audience during the footage of Ammon trying to find hook placements that would hold.

I thought it was a bit long, but still more interesting for me than many of the other shows during the week.
socalbolter

Sport climber
Silverado, CA
Oct 1, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
When and where is the Orange County screening?
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 1, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Well written, Ed, and interesting. But, for me, I give them all that. Putting up the route with a disregard for the climbing community ethic and then wanting respect from same, that's just how people are. What continues to be the crux of it for me is all this over a janky, at the way outer limits of artificial, tedious and unaesthetic climb.

Climbing is for not. And has its own made up rules and ethics. But, if you want to climb for the sake of climbing they are a necessary baggage. We don't want people placing a line of bolts top to bottom on beautiful cliffs, then what? clamping tracks to the bolts?, then an elevator to the tracks? That is easy to see as too artificial (and yet some would do it and have come close). Most of us don't want to climb bare foot without any gear or ropes, only upclimbing what we can downclimb, either. That is easy to see as too natural (and yet some purists will only climb that way).

Those guys probably did that slab in the best possible style that it could be done. But, that was still about how artificial they were going to make it (which again they probably made it about the least artificial they could have). And, it was still going to be this unaesthetic tedious climb. They did get notoriety, they did get to suffer and martyr along for their climb which they tie into same for their religious beliefs. And, maybe that's really the best they could have done. I don't know. They say there is a psychological payoff for most things we continue to do or we'd stop doing them. But, I'm no psychologist. But, I wonder if they would now be happier if they had put all that energy and intelligence (because you can't deny that they are smarter than the average climber, haha) into putting up the most esthetic route on El Cap, something akin to the Salathe, only harder, let's say? Or could the answer be no? This route, their downgrading of other routes; what did they take from climbing, and what did they give?

* Anytime you alter the rock it is in fact controversial.
* They had just as much right as anyone to put up a route on El Cap or anywhere else.
* Should an unaesthetic, on the ragged edge of what the community saw as artificial, climb been discouraged no matter who was talking about putting it up? Yes.
* Should things have ever gone past an initial discouragement of the idea through brief discussions about history and ethics? No.
* Would they have finished the climbing without all the harassment? A good question.
* If they had finished without any harassment (criminal harassment I must say) and the community yawned and moved on... if the Steve Grossmans could see a glimpse of that future; wouldn't that have wished they would have gone that route? A long forgotten unaesthetic route... like so many other no star routes in the Valley and around the world. ?
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 2, 2013 - 04:29am PT
Putting up the route with a disregard for the climbing community ethic and then wanting respect from same, that's just how people are.

See how easily utter crap becomes "received wisdom?"

What continues to be the crux of it for me is all this over a janky, at the way outer limits of artificial, tedious and unaesthetic climb.

LOL... if you can really believe that "all this" really IS just over a janky (blah, blah, blah), then you really are clueless about "the story," even Ed's version of it, and human nature. But, then, that would sort of TOTALLY unfit you to be a talking head anybody should bother to take seriously.

All this talk about martyrdom and religion and so forth. Are you serious? Do you really believe the garbage you write, just because you write it?

Seriously, dude, you have NO idea what you are talking about, which just makes you into another "talking head" with exactly ZERO firsthand knowledge about which to talk. If you want to know what I think or what motivates me, just ask. I'll be honest, and that's about the best evidence you'll get upon which to form opinions about me. By contrast, if you think that your speculations make you look all "in the know" or perceptive, I'm here to tell you that you just look foolish because you're OBVIOUSLY speculating, and you are literally incorrect.

And if you don't care enough to ask, then you shouldn't care enough to post. If it doesn't matter, then why are you here? And if it does matter, then you should care enough to be accurate in what you say. Any way you cut it, your post was just another in a long chain of posts by "talking heads" that can't be bothered enough with the truth to be taken seriously (even by themselves). Yet, amazingly, they just keep talking....

I guess THAT's "just how people are."

Ahh, the delicious irony contained just within your post. It's the one pleasure that can be derived from such nonsense.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 2, 2013 - 05:25am PT
I want my money back now.

DMT
Rivet hanger

Trad climber
Barcelona
Oct 2, 2013 - 10:15am PT
My God, Richy and his proverbial synthesis skill are back!
I just want to know if the movie will be included in Reel Rock Tour 2014 or if you plan to come to Europe. If so, Richy should be included in the trip, at least we could teach him how to use a wood wedge + a piton and a leadhead. And of course, the difference between bathooks/batheads and natural feautes of the rock and A5 and A3+... I hope all these things are explained on the film, which would make it more interesting than the book!
MisterE

climber
Oct 2, 2013 - 10:33am PT
I thought the movie was very well done, and it was great to meet Richard and his family at Upper Pines!

Erik

Edited for context
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Oct 2, 2013 - 10:49am PT
Interesting how different people can watch the same event and see something totally different. This bit of Yosemite climbing history has fascinated me for years. I was totally psyched to see the movie and meet Richard in person. I walked out of that screening thinking "finally!... they put that one to rest". I was evidently naive.

I kinda agree with Richard on this.. when he says it's a "big pile of objective facts, and...that Jeff tried very, very hard to simply assemble the objective facts in some coherent order, and that without some "plot"..."

So why did they climb it? Simple answer seemed to be .. because it was there. Were they seeking validation? Seemed like the answer was "no".

That's what I got. Jeff presents all sides. If anything the film came across heavily focused on Ammon.. his bio, history, and his second ascent. If it needed editing, it was on that end IMO, (although the generous/superfluous(?)clips of Gabe added some eye-candy-for the ladies and the mustache worked for some comic relief.) It obviously was important to explain Ammon's history.

What I got from Ammon was that no one who was "incompetent" could possibly climb this route and, in the end, it is clear from his report that they didn't lie... which is the only validation they seem to ask for.

Both sides state that WOS is neither aesthetic nor appealing. Will it see a third ascent? Who knows? Probably not.

My (worthless) critiques of the film.. 1) Yikes.. the lighting and editing on Steve. That side of the controversy certainly needed a voice, but I wish he could have been presented in a less evil light (both figuratively and literally). and 2) I hated the title. It seems biased and isn't that memorable.

Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 2, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
No please spare the server space.

DMT
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 2, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
Posts dropping off this thread like the morning bizzness.

Petty moves, that ensure the proper context is never found.

Here we go again.
WBraun

climber
Oct 2, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
Why delete the human condition?

You both should have left everything up.

It was good ....
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Oct 2, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
Hahahahahahahahahahahaha!

That's 10,321 fewer words of electronic noise! Delete MORE PLEASE!!!!

DMT
jstan

climber
Oct 2, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
This is more likely to mark a beginning than it is an end. Ammon himself suggested it might be done in a day. The question poses itself however; how much hooking will it take before the route is effectively erased? After that one wonders how many bolts on rappel will it take to make it a "free" route?

The film mentions that the FA people kept a complete log or diary. This is rather different from normal FA where "turn left at the big rock" is a typical instruction. Was that new level of data incorporated in the topo provided by the authors? If so, perhaps this new level of data caused many to expect the route was wholly artificial; the root of much later controversy.

I thought the film was interesting and well done. Whatever else follows, one can only hope it will also be interesting.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 2, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
To the tedious dude that put up the tedious route (what a surprise that a tedious and anal dude would put up a tedious and anal route and then go on and on about it tediously for decades, haha):

Seriously, dude, you have NO idea what you are talking about

All right. :)

To just the maid:

I kinda agree with Richard on this.. when he says it's a "big pile of objective facts

I liked your post. I do not think your review of the movie worthless at all. I think the reason public forums are in place are for people to post. Not for them to be told not to post, or to delete their post. But anyway, isn't the only objective thing you could say about anything related to climbing the fact that it is subjective? ;)

Both sides state that WOS is neither aesthetic nor appealing.

Well, I guess I was at least right about something in their eyes. haha

That side of the controversy certainly needed a voice, but I wish he could have been presented in a less evil light

I haven't seen the interview yet. But, I've read all the posts from Steve and Richard through the years. Both take this very personally, so neither is the right person to ask for an objective opinion or the truth, obviously. :)

I have a saying I use a lot. What would John Wayne do? :) When cops shot the 70 year old lady to death for waving around a standard kitchen butter knife... I asked myself if that's how John Wayne would have handled it? Would he be whining about my GFs cats, lol, etc. etc. Great for us in climbing that we have our own John Wayne... and his name is John, too. :) John Long is beloved for his self deprecation and playing down of his exploits. Calling Pisano Overhang "nothing more than a grunt", about the first NIAD "well, I had a lot of energy and endurance back then." When asked why he had a toprope on a 5.10 he said, "out of laziness and cowardess, not necessarily in that order." lol I love that guy, who doesn't? :) Oh yeah, Richard doesn't want to be loved. You know what, though? Everyone who has ever said that was lying. Again, obviously. This from the guy who says he just doesn't want to be called a liar and if asked we'd get the truth from him. All of us can say that the person that knows us the least is ourself. When you allow yourself to take something so personally and latch onto it so hard... you will not say or do the right things. You will not improve your situation or come off right. You cannot be objective or honest, obviously. But, you can be controversial. Which has its own psychological rewards. ;)

I'm just saying... :)


Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 2, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
Why delete the human condition?

You both should have left everything up.

It was good ....

Agreed.

And, I believe I generally always enjoy Ed's posts as well as KLK's posts. And, occasionally one of your posts. haha
Da_Dweeb

climber
Oct 2, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
Oh, hey guys! Can I play?

Edit: Howdy, Rivet Hanger! Good to see you again.

Edit: Dingus, old chap! Always a pleasure!
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Oct 2, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
It seems to me that the idea of "ethic" here is confused with "parochialism" or provinciality. Wings of Steel does not appear to be .. say.. the Compressor Route or a similar ethical controversy but a challenge to the provincial milieu.


Why was Richard, who was sitting right there up front, not invited on stage?

as for the film, good on ya! It makes me want to know more about the route and about it's authors and about all the greasy underbelly of the era (especially when you add this to the classic warren vs royal snort fest). I was happy to see it and amazed at the climb.

And where can I get a T shirt? Skip has one!

oh, It's a bit obvious that those who are inclined to diss the esthetic of the route should climb it first, otherwise those comments look quite small to those of us in the stands.



Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 2, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
the classic warren vs royal snort fest

Warren was awesome! That was classic and fun! This and these guys?... not so much. haha

It's a bit obvious that those who are inclined to diss the esthetic of the route should climb it first

Have you ever hooked a flake? ;)
Da_Dweeb

climber
Oct 2, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
Hey, where did all of the posts from last night go? =(

For cry yi, this is a public forum! We should be creating an environment here in which people feel safe enough to post their honest opinions even if they ARE wrong and have rocks for brains. =(

Speaking of which, Rudder, I have been meaning to ask:

Credit: Lauren Faust, and an epic cast of climbers and trolls in a saga 30 years in the making.

In the above Internet Hug, which pony are YOU?
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 2, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
Ah geez, not the ponies!

Maybe the pink one. haha
Da_Dweeb

climber
Oct 2, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
Ahhhh Pinkie Pie!

A wonderful choice.
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Oct 2, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
I saw the movie at Facelift and thought it was really well done. Decided to talk to Richard the next day and was impressed by what a thoughtful and conscious man he is (and was, I am sure). Saw it again last night and talked to Jeff. He has put a lot of work and thought into providing a broad and telling story. Good on you.

There will always be somebody who gets pissed off or does not see it a particular way. But the light needs to be shown if your going to see the whole picture. Ammon and the whole crew did this well.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 2, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
Thank you MUCH! It was a true pleasure to meet you, and I just wish we had had more time to talk. Maybe next year, 'cause I definitely want to be part of Facelift! :-)
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Oct 3, 2013 - 12:18am PT
Self appointed ethical arbiter/historian positing on film and WWWeb for posterity is all the vindication anyone could possibly hope for...

the ascenders will be remembered for the ascending.
the arbiter will be remembered for.....
MisterE

climber
Oct 3, 2013 - 12:33am PT
...his own boldness, hopefully.

Lucky Goes To The Creamery - 5.11X unrepeated
Lucky Goes To The Creamery - 5.11X unrepeated
Credit: Larry Coats
Da_Dweeb

climber
Oct 3, 2013 - 01:13am PT
There will always be somebody who gets pissed off or does not see it a particular way.

A key point. Some people just aren't going to like or do right by some other people, no matter what. Some people are simply not going to be open to a different perspective, no matter what. There is wisdom in recognizing when there is no prize to the fight.

Hopefully Steve is remembered as MisterE presents him.
Lovegasoline

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Oct 3, 2013 - 03:58am PT
Did the movie's budget include a six of 0E for a Swilliam interview and was the latter included in the movie?
If not, I can't imagine that the movie can realistically claim to present any sort of fair, or even general, assessment of the overall drama surrounding the climb and its legacy.
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