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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 24, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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I carry a couple extra long slings. When the anchor end of the rope starts getting heavy, I pull it tight and clove it to the next piece with a very long sling, then get another piece in above it. It ain't perfect.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Nov 25, 2013 - 12:15am PT
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^haha
it's scary every time!
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 25, 2013 - 12:22am PT
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so i use a plain old stock grigri. why is the SP any better? don't clove hitches supposedly slipp at 2.5kN? backup knott, etc, butt still, the grigri cannot be that much worse than the SP, right?
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Nov 25, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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I am sure as hell no solo master so dont trust me but it seems that for free climben the SP is WAY better then gri gri. for aiding it really doesnt matter?
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 25, 2013 - 12:43am PT
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so whutt type of device should I use for a solo ascent of this crack?
it's fairly hott.
can anyone tell me where this is? I will pay you in beer if you can pinpoint it.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 25, 2013 - 01:10am PT
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Hey, that's an interesting article. I never considered how a clove hitch loads a biner.......that there is a correct way to attach it. I don't think these issues would affect an SP however.
For the person wondering about the GriGri; The SP must spread the load to more of the rope, especially in free climbing falls.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 25, 2013 - 01:50am PT
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name the formation to which it is attached (in view from a 2wd road), and I will gift you a case of your choice 'merican localbrew, strong.
betcha can't do it. I don't think it has been climbed.
I mention it because the Grigri blows my ass on the transition to free. I'm knott gonna mod it.
Does the SP actually catch falls in the event that you don't have a backup?
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 25, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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Well, yes... in theory. There's some kind of centrifugal clutch (I imagine something like the pawls in a lawnmower starter) that engage when you rotate the drum too fast. So as long as you don't try to yank an armful of slack through it to clip some pro, and just climb at a nice steady pace, the rope feed through flawlessly.
If you fall, the drum spins fast enough to engage the pawls (I don't know, I haven't and won't take it apart) and the drum stops, the clove cinches down, and you stop.
However, the factory manual says right in it that the device can't and won't catch all falls, so tie some kind of backup. Mine has caught every time I've tested it; but it's a rare thing that I don't use some kind of backup.
Not a chance in hell I'm going to possibly name that formation. It does, however, look like fun. Keep posting those pics in that other thread. Good stuff.
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MisterE
climber
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Nov 25, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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Not many women posting about soloing on this rig on this thread - just sayin'...
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Nov 25, 2013 - 08:56am PT
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Johnnyrig- The SP uses a bidirectional roller clutch. A bit hard to see in the patent drawing, but basically it's a set of rollers that roll freely when moved slowly, but move off-center and lock when moved quickly. The pieces in question are numbers 40, 50, and 52.
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Enty
Trad climber
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Nov 25, 2013 - 09:13am PT
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Can we have some more photos of good anchor set-ups please?
Cheers,
E
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Nov 25, 2013 - 09:37am PT
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Sorry eKat! I was trying to keep the pic small, so cropped it out. :(
Here ya go! :)
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 25, 2013 - 09:43am PT
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Aha! I see it quite well. There are three rollers, held it toward center by the S-shaped spring. When inertia/centrifugal force overcomes centering spring force the rollers get sandwiched between the outer drum and the triangular ramp, effecting lockup.
Nice!
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Nov 25, 2013 - 09:49am PT
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Yikes! Sorry eKat!!! I will pull the pics if you like. I'm more than a bit of an enginerd, and am fascinated by these sorts of things, so spend a lot of time reading patents for fun and like sharing the more interesting bits. :)
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Nov 25, 2013 - 10:34am PT
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I completely understand, eKat. And seriously, will pull if you'd like.
On a side note, I think your/Blanchard's drawings would be *fantastic* on a shirt from patentwear. http://www.patentwear.com/index.php?cPath=14
(yes, I'm that much an enginerd)
-a.
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Nov 25, 2013 - 11:36am PT
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That's Guido??? Awesome! One more reason to put it on my xmas list. :)
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 25, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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Good call - the holidaze are coming. All this talk of removing the drawings......I've got my copy now.
eKat, Have you thought about making a key-chain version of SP?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 25, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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a little ledge and haul bag......
This is the Silent Partner 'beauty' thread after all.
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