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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 16, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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this wonderful device, originally offered by wren
now available thru rock exotica is absolutely lovely.
the belay offered is smooth, easy to manage,
predictable, convenient, and most of all safe.
i love to climb with warm-blooded partners,
but i have to admit my days alone on the mount
with the metal-blow-up-device suit me
the best.
aint nothing like coiling the rope on
top of a committing route,
that i've just overcome, me, myself, i, and the silent partner.
patrons must follow the directions included with the device,
and they should earn graduating levels of comfort with the
silent partner by starting easy and working up to greater
challenges.
i've taken 30 foot whippers on mine and the catch
was smooth and uneventful.
documentation of it's use is difficult, for
the poperautzi has not yet caught wind of my travels,
luckily my faithful friend and wife occassionally
joins me on my solo outings,
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Aug 16, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
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looks like fun. I would like to try this system some time.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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kat if i had to pen
a slogan for the device
it surely would read,
there's nothing i can't do.
im melancholy by nature,
and i love the double negative,
like,
my worst enemy's enemy is my best friend,
or however beethoven beautifully put it.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Aug 16, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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weegy what is the hardest route you've have climbed with the SP?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Aug 16, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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I just parted with my Partner. She needed to be set free..She deserved better than sitting in a closet all day. Definitely the silent type, she never said anything.. but I could just tell .. she wasn't happy.
I think Hamik will give her what she's looking for.
Be free my old friend.
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Aug 16, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
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I've had a long term illicit affair w my SP. We don't go out often, but when we do the excitement is almost too much to bare(sp! Ha!) I sneak away so as to not cause any undue concern for my main squeeze, and simply indulge to my heart's content.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
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liasons aplenty! yes sir anxious.
sleeper my hardest leads to date have
been on my self belay.
i hate talking numbers though,
it makes me feel like
im posting nude.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Aug 16, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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understood weegy ;)
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Andrew Barnes
Ice climber
Albany, NY
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Aug 16, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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The Silent Partner seems outlandish, until you try it. Then it feels totally natural. Not only is it natural, it actually becomes both enjoyable and addictive. I feel a bit strange recommending that people use the SP, for the obvious reasons - besides being an antisocial loser, must I not be messed up in the head to be soloing? But then, upon further rational consideration I realize that (1) it is much safer than climbing ropeless (free or aid), (2) it is the best soloing belay device available, and (3) if I'm mentally messed up enough to want to solo, it's actually safer to use the SP than not to use the SP.
The SP has been used for major (i.e. either long or difficult) routes by several big time climbers who use this site/forum. Hope some of them post to this thread. The SP could definitely use some positive publicity.
Andrew Barnes.
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Deekaid
climber
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Aug 17, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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just a bump as a counterpoint to that other thread
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 17, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
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Love my Silent Partner, it is a thing of beauty when you fall. Sometimes I curse loudly when I come up short on my backup knot, but that's my fault though, not the devices.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Aug 17, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Lots of fun but ya gotta keep track of that backup knot
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 17, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
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hey there say, norwegian...
thanks for the share, and for all that joined in...
i don't know much about any of this, but i love reading and
soaking it all in...
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Aug 17, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Aug 17, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Norwegian is just a bad ass, plain and simple.
I got a silent partner at some point. Was able to use it once on some easy climb at the 5 books area of Yosemite, to be on the safe side. Sane roped solo of a climb I had done with a friend once before. I think on the same day I watched a guy take a near catastrophic ground fall from one of the other climbs on the same formation. It was f*#kin scary, I saw it coming, but couldn't for the life of me yell up to the dude as he was getting pumped and didn't want to add further delay toy to the issue.
Anyway, got up on my easy climb, got past my initial shakes, and sweated my way up the climb… easy enough… But a huge pain in the ass with the amount of work it took to get that rope up there, back down to pull the gear and release the bottom anchor then ascend to the high point.
Sweat, rope drag, sheath destruction and did I mention sweat?
Once I was at the top of the climb and on my way back to the car, I decided I'd probably not do that again and just stick to not push my limits with soloing (the big plan) and just stick to stuff that I knew I could do without too much hesitation.
Still got the brand new, single use silent partner in my small gear bag along with a small rack of medium to small cams also single use and retired.
Cheers Nor
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sangoma
Trad climber
south africa
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Aug 18, 2013 - 03:04am PT
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Hay Jingy
I'll look after her and show her a good time ...
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 11:07am PT
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oh yes the potential for
mishaps and tangles is vast.
a couple of regular fvck ups that i endure:
a slack loop tied to the backup knot works
its way toward the silent partner, as they
are supposed to. it's the driver's job to watch
these loops and when they get near,
he/she's to let out the next back up knot.
being a space-driven bunch, these often get
overlooked. the worst is when that
loop seats across the soul of your boot and
as you attempt to stand up, it lifts
your foot right off the hold.
another one is to let the loop go all the
way into the silent partner, then you got a tight
clove hitch and tons of tension in your belay,
often this happens at crux. so you have to reverse
moves, get a hand or two free, loosen the clove
hitch, back out some slack, and the release
the next back up knot. and then reclimb the crux.
the silent partner severely twists the rope,
so after numerous laps, the rope has a warped mind
of its own and does all kinds of circus acts.
my favorite is the slack coils horribly entangling
amongst themselves, so they arrive in the form
of a giant ball of rope that your're trying to force
thru a tight little cavity, that is the silent partner
vagina.
you can see in these pictures, i've a tangle on the way
as i didn't stack my coils with care and one has looped
another:
these aren't simple outings, with the silent partner.
just like with a reel pardner,
each end of the rope has a personality,
and these play out as they will across
the moutain's jaw.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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of note, i store my slack on a gear loop,
which is not full strength. so i have
tied a short sling around the main belt
of my harness to back up this gear loop,
to create a full-strength back-up system.
i use clove hitches instead of figure-eights,
because you can untie them with one hand, sukcas.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Aug 18, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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Having all those loops on the harness looks Soooo awkward. Any thoughts about backpacking the slack? That's my idea when I get a SP.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
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paul / ekat,
that picture of the rack of cloves is worst case:
the line of ascent within my scope
has no real stances / rests,
and i plan to run out my 70 meter rope to it's end
(multi-pitch climb.)
more common is the scenario where i carry
(3) or (4) cloves depending on the distance
between stances on a pitch where i can
add some slack coils along the way.
or on single pitch stuff,
it's not usually necessary to carry more
than 60' of rope,
which is about (4) cloves / coils.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Aug 19, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
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I'm looking into getting a SP for soloing walls. My only fear is my leg getting caught in the loop as I fall and pinching my leg if the SP doesn't stop me fast enough.
Irrational fear?
What ropes are better for use with the SP....flexible, limp ropes? Or stiffer, more cable-like ropes?
I was skimming the instruction manual and what are the pros and cons of using the prussik backup versus a clove/fig 8 backup knot?
Thanks
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Aug 20, 2013 - 02:04am PT
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Beware of where your foot is in relation to the hoopty loops. Keep a prusik on ya to release tension if yer convinced of a constriction, but use the backup knot system as a backup, not a melty prusik. My SP runs fine with a Tendon Ambition and a REI Equinox, both 9.8. And listen to the sage advice of others here who cheat death for longer than my naive 2 year noobishness.
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Deekaid
climber
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Aug 20, 2013 - 03:08am PT
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what's with the pistol ? gimme a break ...and i am a gun guy
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Aug 20, 2013 - 08:52am PT
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Removed, for you sensitive types.
It's not like I posted some topless chick. It was just a shot looking down the route I went up with the SP. I missed the gun til you pointed it out. Touchy.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Aug 20, 2013 - 09:40am PT
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of note, i store my slack on a gear loop,
which is not full strength. so i have
tied a short sling around the main belt
of my harness to back up this gear loop,
Smart. I do the same thing to back up my sh1tty old harness. I tie a full strength 1" runner around my waist for use as a chalkbag belt. When I tie in, I just include the full strength runner in the figure eight tie in loop.
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Deekaid
climber
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Aug 20, 2013 - 10:42am PT
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not touchy or sensitive just think its dumb to climb with a pistol
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Aug 20, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Dumber than climbing solo in the middle of nowhere with a SP? Plenty of mountain lion sightings around these parts lately, and meth-addled rednecks, with guns. 'course I left my dog at the base to distract them. Maybe next time I can leave it there with her in a backpack and some beer? I duno. It's pointless. To each his own. Thanks for your opinion though!
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Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Aug 20, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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I used my SP a few times, but climbed well below my grade as I do not quite trust it enough (I never fell on it). How quickly does it stop and is it sudden or dynamic? What is the longest fall one took on it without rattling one's teeth?
The benefit of the SP is that you get to climb the route twice so you get better fast. The drawback is that it is a slow process, at least for me. Cheers!!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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though the silent partner is
anti-social, like i,
we enjoyed the company of footloose
and friend,
who graciously captured my most recent outing.
in this instance, i realized one of the worst hassles,
as i entered the crux, overhanging on small
feet and a poor hand jamb, my belay came tight.
too many twists in the rope piled up downstream
of my silent partner.
i yelled, take, and slumped into a 10'er.
on the rebound,
after a fall, the leader re-enters
the crux with a built-in slack-loop
for there is no convenient way
to reel the fall-generated slop back in.
another wonderful day out in the mountains,
with my silent partner,
it is a self-esteem stimulant,
for when nearly everything else in your life
is falling down around you,
the silent partner always is there
to help me walk rewardingly
amonst the jagged pieces of my existence.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Aug 27, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
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What ropes are better for use with the SP....flexible, limp ropes? Or stiffer, more cable-like ropes?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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you want a nicely shaven,
teen rope (18 of course).
worn-out shag don't hunt in this case.
also the newly unpackaged ropes
they offer a statutory belay.
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julton
climber
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Aug 27, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
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The best rope for the silent partner is a Beal Tiger Unicore Golden Dry 10mm.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Aug 27, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
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^^^ ... fresh outa the wrapper. Just be sure to perform the yankee hand test first.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 23, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Bump for the silent partner...
'cause sometimes real people have to bail
or won't go climb in snow and hail
Do you sit on yer ass like you were in jail?
Nah... not with a Silent Partner!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 23, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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Haha.. damn it .. I said sorry!
:)
What did ya climb?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Nov 23, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
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^^haha called out!
In the end it's all about having fun right?!
I like having a breathing partner, but I love that I can still get out and have fun when none are available or willing.
Wege, your SP pictures are always inspiring to me to get out there more.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 23, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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heh heh, I wasn't pointing fingers... just singing praises.
I ended up working on the truck most of the day, front diff was full of water, t-case was empty, had an out-of-round tire, and put in a new headlight switch that doesn't leave me in the dark at inopportune moments.
Took the dog up by washoe boulders, hiked up the hill, and played with a pile of choss for an hour or so. Dude, it was like a 5.3 traverse with a 30ft altitude gain! I shoulda took a picture of the whole thing, which I think most little kids would use for king-of-the-hill or something. 4th class fer sure!
But I did build an anchor, place some nuts and cams, and fought the rope through the SP, besides getting the dog out for a run. Win-win.
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okie
Trad climber
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Nov 24, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
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Any tricks for keeping the clove from jamming under rope weight? I couldn't seem to get very far without tying off multi-directional pro.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 24, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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That's probably one reason Norwegian ties his rope off in multiple loops - that would give more consistency. I was going to try and keep my spare rope in a big light sack on my back - there are pics of that in other SP threads I think. Seems like the more worn the rope is, the more it's likely to bind up in the clove?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 24, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 24, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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I carry a couple extra long slings. When the anchor end of the rope starts getting heavy, I pull it tight and clove it to the next piece with a very long sling, then get another piece in above it. It ain't perfect.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Nov 25, 2013 - 12:15am PT
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^haha
it's scary every time!
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 25, 2013 - 12:22am PT
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so i use a plain old stock grigri. why is the SP any better? don't clove hitches supposedly slipp at 2.5kN? backup knott, etc, butt still, the grigri cannot be that much worse than the SP, right?
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Nov 25, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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I am sure as hell no solo master so dont trust me but it seems that for free climben the SP is WAY better then gri gri. for aiding it really doesnt matter?
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 25, 2013 - 12:43am PT
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so whutt type of device should I use for a solo ascent of this crack?
it's fairly hott.
can anyone tell me where this is? I will pay you in beer if you can pinpoint it.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 25, 2013 - 01:10am PT
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Hey, that's an interesting article. I never considered how a clove hitch loads a biner.......that there is a correct way to attach it. I don't think these issues would affect an SP however.
For the person wondering about the GriGri; The SP must spread the load to more of the rope, especially in free climbing falls.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 25, 2013 - 01:50am PT
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name the formation to which it is attached (in view from a 2wd road), and I will gift you a case of your choice 'merican localbrew, strong.
betcha can't do it. I don't think it has been climbed.
I mention it because the Grigri blows my ass on the transition to free. I'm knott gonna mod it.
Does the SP actually catch falls in the event that you don't have a backup?
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 25, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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Well, yes... in theory. There's some kind of centrifugal clutch (I imagine something like the pawls in a lawnmower starter) that engage when you rotate the drum too fast. So as long as you don't try to yank an armful of slack through it to clip some pro, and just climb at a nice steady pace, the rope feed through flawlessly.
If you fall, the drum spins fast enough to engage the pawls (I don't know, I haven't and won't take it apart) and the drum stops, the clove cinches down, and you stop.
However, the factory manual says right in it that the device can't and won't catch all falls, so tie some kind of backup. Mine has caught every time I've tested it; but it's a rare thing that I don't use some kind of backup.
Not a chance in hell I'm going to possibly name that formation. It does, however, look like fun. Keep posting those pics in that other thread. Good stuff.
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MisterE
climber
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Nov 25, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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Not many women posting about soloing on this rig on this thread - just sayin'...
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Nov 25, 2013 - 08:56am PT
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Johnnyrig- The SP uses a bidirectional roller clutch. A bit hard to see in the patent drawing, but basically it's a set of rollers that roll freely when moved slowly, but move off-center and lock when moved quickly. The pieces in question are numbers 40, 50, and 52.
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Enty
Trad climber
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Nov 25, 2013 - 09:13am PT
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Can we have some more photos of good anchor set-ups please?
Cheers,
E
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Nov 25, 2013 - 09:37am PT
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Sorry eKat! I was trying to keep the pic small, so cropped it out. :(
Here ya go! :)
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 25, 2013 - 09:43am PT
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Aha! I see it quite well. There are three rollers, held it toward center by the S-shaped spring. When inertia/centrifugal force overcomes centering spring force the rollers get sandwiched between the outer drum and the triangular ramp, effecting lockup.
Nice!
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Nov 25, 2013 - 09:49am PT
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Yikes! Sorry eKat!!! I will pull the pics if you like. I'm more than a bit of an enginerd, and am fascinated by these sorts of things, so spend a lot of time reading patents for fun and like sharing the more interesting bits. :)
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Nov 25, 2013 - 10:34am PT
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I completely understand, eKat. And seriously, will pull if you'd like.
On a side note, I think your/Blanchard's drawings would be *fantastic* on a shirt from patentwear. http://www.patentwear.com/index.php?cPath=14
(yes, I'm that much an enginerd)
-a.
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adatesman
climber
philadelphia, pa
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Nov 25, 2013 - 11:36am PT
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That's Guido??? Awesome! One more reason to put it on my xmas list. :)
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 25, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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Good call - the holidaze are coming. All this talk of removing the drawings......I've got my copy now.
eKat, Have you thought about making a key-chain version of SP?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 25, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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a little ledge and haul bag......
This is the Silent Partner 'beauty' thread after all.
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chick_on_ice
Trad climber
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Nov 25, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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Warning, I apologize for the newbie questions.
I was out this past weekend and borrowed a minitrax from a friend to top-rope some things because I didn't have a partner. Would a silent partner work the same as a minitrax (I'm looking to top-rope only at the moment rather than lead-solo or whatever you call it---is rope soloing the technical term for that?). Anyway, where can I get one of these gizmos? I would primarily be using it to do laps on some ice near where I go to school. Any advice would be much appreciated!
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mareko
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Nov 25, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
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I miss my SP (or Bobby) and my big wall gear that got stolen a couple of weeks ago. Saving my pennies for a new SP.
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Nov 25, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
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Since you're on the subject what about using a SP in really DRY freezing conditions? Think steep winter wall. Always figured that the warning about cold weather were more due to a concern over icing not stiff lubricants or whatever. Thoughts?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 25, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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I'd worry about frozen condensation. Screws up camera's could screw up the internal working mebbe. There is a lot riding on that internal mechanism. Thing is stout but the mechanisms have to be able to move as intended.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 25, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
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I don't recall seeing that in the online manual but who really reads instructions anyway?
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chick_on_ice
Trad climber
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Nov 25, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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And this is why I asked you guys instead of going off and self-teaching. Good to know. I guess I'll just solo instead ;)
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 25, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
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Haha.. awesome.
oh
and
YER GUNNA DIE!
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chick_on_ice
Trad climber
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Nov 25, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
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I'm pretty determined not to. If anyone needs a partner in Hyalite from dec. 2-10, I'm the girl in the bivy sack camping out for that week. And this way my soloing will be minimized!
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 25, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
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I always read the instructions. Following, however...
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Guys. Has this been discontinued?
I can't find it anymore on the Rock Exotica page. They discontinued the Soloist some time ago and now the http://www.rockexotica.com/solo-belay/ page leads to an error page.
WTF?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Ekat, you say that a person should not use the Silent Partner in freezing and below conditions, as water/icing will effect it. But as long as there is no precipitation or wet conditions, won't the Silent Partner work as normal with no issues? I have used mine in below freezing temps regularly, and there appears to be no issue. As long as I keep it clean and dry, I think I'm good and the device locks up as it should. Am I correct in this assumption, or is there something I'm missing?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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I'd worry about frozen condensation. Screws up camera's could screw up the internal working mebbe. There is a lot riding on that internal mechanism. Thing is stout but the mechanisms have to be able to move as intended.
I said this earlier. Just one bad condensation day and.....
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 16, 2016 - 01:52pm PT
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Bump
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 13, 2016 - 11:36am PT
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I have been using mine quite a bit recently. George Bracksiack gave me his after he injured himself in a fall, not the Silent Partners fault but it resulted in one of the keeper pins snapping off and George shattering his femur, ouch!! Fortunately George is doing well and I was able to repair the Silent Partner.
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dominikz
Trad climber
Poland
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Anyone selling Silent Partner these days?
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dominikz
Trad climber
Poland
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Jun 19, 2017 - 03:16am PT
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Damn, missed that auction!
Still anyone?
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dominikz
Trad climber
Poland
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Aug 20, 2017 - 01:32pm PT
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There has to be a way to get email notifications once someone puts something on this forum. Otherwise, I'll never get the damn device!
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Aug 20, 2017 - 06:16pm PT
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dominikz, what is your e-mail address? The PM function no longer works.
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NegativeK
climber
Chicago
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Aug 20, 2017 - 07:35pm PT
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They're slowly inching up in price in the used market (going for over retail on eBay); guess we're getting them while we can.
Is there any hint or wiggle of anyone starting their manufacture back up? Or a good replacement in the works?
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Aug 21, 2017 - 06:58am PT
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Wild Country Revo might be a replacement. I've got my preorder in, will report back once I have it and test it out
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| Messages 1 - 85 of total 85 in this topic |
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