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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Aug 19, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
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I'm looking into getting a SP for soloing walls. My only fear is my leg getting caught in the loop as I fall and pinching my leg if the SP doesn't stop me fast enough.
Irrational fear?
What ropes are better for use with the SP....flexible, limp ropes? Or stiffer, more cable-like ropes?
I was skimming the instruction manual and what are the pros and cons of using the prussik backup versus a clove/fig 8 backup knot?
Thanks
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Aug 20, 2013 - 02:04am PT
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Beware of where your foot is in relation to the hoopty loops. Keep a prusik on ya to release tension if yer convinced of a constriction, but use the backup knot system as a backup, not a melty prusik. My SP runs fine with a Tendon Ambition and a REI Equinox, both 9.8. And listen to the sage advice of others here who cheat death for longer than my naive 2 year noobishness.
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Deekaid
climber
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Aug 20, 2013 - 03:08am PT
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what's with the pistol ? gimme a break ...and i am a gun guy
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Aug 20, 2013 - 08:52am PT
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Removed, for you sensitive types.
It's not like I posted some topless chick. It was just a shot looking down the route I went up with the SP. I missed the gun til you pointed it out. Touchy.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Aug 20, 2013 - 09:40am PT
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of note, i store my slack on a gear loop,
which is not full strength. so i have
tied a short sling around the main belt
of my harness to back up this gear loop,
Smart. I do the same thing to back up my sh1tty old harness. I tie a full strength 1" runner around my waist for use as a chalkbag belt. When I tie in, I just include the full strength runner in the figure eight tie in loop.
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Deekaid
climber
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Aug 20, 2013 - 10:42am PT
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not touchy or sensitive just think its dumb to climb with a pistol
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Aug 20, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Dumber than climbing solo in the middle of nowhere with a SP? Plenty of mountain lion sightings around these parts lately, and meth-addled rednecks, with guns. 'course I left my dog at the base to distract them. Maybe next time I can leave it there with her in a backpack and some beer? I duno. It's pointless. To each his own. Thanks for your opinion though!
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Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Aug 20, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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I used my SP a few times, but climbed well below my grade as I do not quite trust it enough (I never fell on it). How quickly does it stop and is it sudden or dynamic? What is the longest fall one took on it without rattling one's teeth?
The benefit of the SP is that you get to climb the route twice so you get better fast. The drawback is that it is a slow process, at least for me. Cheers!!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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though the silent partner is
anti-social, like i,
we enjoyed the company of footloose
and friend,
who graciously captured my most recent outing.
in this instance, i realized one of the worst hassles,
as i entered the crux, overhanging on small
feet and a poor hand jamb, my belay came tight.
too many twists in the rope piled up downstream
of my silent partner.
i yelled, take, and slumped into a 10'er.
on the rebound,
after a fall, the leader re-enters
the crux with a built-in slack-loop
for there is no convenient way
to reel the fall-generated slop back in.
another wonderful day out in the mountains,
with my silent partner,
it is a self-esteem stimulant,
for when nearly everything else in your life
is falling down around you,
the silent partner always is there
to help me walk rewardingly
amonst the jagged pieces of my existence.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Aug 27, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
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What ropes are better for use with the SP....flexible, limp ropes? Or stiffer, more cable-like ropes?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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you want a nicely shaven,
teen rope (18 of course).
worn-out shag don't hunt in this case.
also the newly unpackaged ropes
they offer a statutory belay.
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julton
climber
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Aug 27, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
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The best rope for the silent partner is a Beal Tiger Unicore Golden Dry 10mm.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Aug 27, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
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^^^ ... fresh outa the wrapper. Just be sure to perform the yankee hand test first.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 23, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Bump for the silent partner...
'cause sometimes real people have to bail
or won't go climb in snow and hail
Do you sit on yer ass like you were in jail?
Nah... not with a Silent Partner!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 23, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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Haha.. damn it .. I said sorry!
:)
What did ya climb?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Nov 23, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
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^^haha called out!
In the end it's all about having fun right?!
I like having a breathing partner, but I love that I can still get out and have fun when none are available or willing.
Wege, your SP pictures are always inspiring to me to get out there more.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Nov 23, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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heh heh, I wasn't pointing fingers... just singing praises.
I ended up working on the truck most of the day, front diff was full of water, t-case was empty, had an out-of-round tire, and put in a new headlight switch that doesn't leave me in the dark at inopportune moments.
Took the dog up by washoe boulders, hiked up the hill, and played with a pile of choss for an hour or so. Dude, it was like a 5.3 traverse with a 30ft altitude gain! I shoulda took a picture of the whole thing, which I think most little kids would use for king-of-the-hill or something. 4th class fer sure!
But I did build an anchor, place some nuts and cams, and fought the rope through the SP, besides getting the dog out for a run. Win-win.
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okie
Trad climber
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Nov 24, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
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Any tricks for keeping the clove from jamming under rope weight? I couldn't seem to get very far without tying off multi-directional pro.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 24, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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That's probably one reason Norwegian ties his rope off in multiple loops - that would give more consistency. I was going to try and keep my spare rope in a big light sack on my back - there are pics of that in other SP threads I think. Seems like the more worn the rope is, the more it's likely to bind up in the clove?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 24, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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