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Messages 21 - 40 of total 42 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
Found a home for the last one.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 15, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
Thanks a lot Dan, looking forward to wreaking more havoc on my already thrashed elbow!



HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Jul 15, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
This is a really cool idea.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jul 15, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
Ya for josh and John, get some!

I would give one of your large units a go.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 15, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
Thnx!
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2013 - 12:01am PT
I would give one of your large units a go.

Tork-

All the handout prototypes are gone now. I do have 5 brand spanking new of the medium size and one of the small on hand but none of the large right now. I could make some if there was any interest in buying or trading for them.

Due to some recent bailing off exploratory climbs, I am running out of stoppers and bail biners. I might trade a drill holder for a handful of stoppers. I figure I need to get $80 for an SDS holder to make it worth my while and some folks have paid that much already. So, I am willing to trade for something I need of about that value.

Anyway, if anybody wants a drill holder and has something to trade or is willing to pay, let me know. I'm figuring $80 for the SDS holders and $50 for the A-Tapers holders. Money back, no questions asked one year return policy.

Postage is extra but you are always welcome to come by Morgan Hill and pick one up.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Sep 10, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
So I drilled/widened a couple of holes this past weekend.

Banquo sent me the SDS type in the large size. The bit is really recessed in the hole.

This is awesome since the striking surface on the drill holder is closer to the wall.

Due to the SDS tool less design I wouldn't recommend these for re-drilling 1/4" holes. when enlarging holes the bit often binds. When this happens I try to crank harder or just pull the bit out of the hole a little and rotate. When I tried to pull the bit out the holster would just pop off and the bit would stay in the hole.

I ended up switching to a hurricane to finish the re-drill.

Once the 1/4" inner hole was eliminated Banquo's drill really hums along. I would love to see a hurricane style wrist strap instead of the micro attachment wire. The wire is very functional and doesn't get in the way, but I would prefer to have a wrist strap.

I'll report back after the next set of holes.

Thanks again!

 Luke
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Sep 10, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
Culture, thx for the insight. I hadn't thought about binding and pulling outward on Banquo's design. Admittedly, I do more FA drilling than rebolting. (sad but true for now)

crazymountaingoat

Big Wall climber
modesto, ca
Sep 10, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
can i nominate myself? I would love to give them a test run. Ive pounded out about 50 bolts in the last year in all kinds of Granite. Would love to test drive a different drill on some more...

cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Sep 10, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
Hey Luke,

Did your drill have a velcro strap over the middle of the foam grip? If so, you need to really cinch that sucker down. It keeps the ball stopper thingies engaged and then the bit will stay put. It also keeps the foam grip in place.

Clint and I replaced a few old 1/4" bolts this weekend with the same drill and had no problems with the bits coming out while fighting the binding effect. If you don't have a velcro cinch strap I'm sure Banquo will mail you one.

Bob
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
Luke,
To reduce binding when enlarging a 1/4" hole:
 do not hit it very hard until you are past the original 1" or so 1/4" depth
 check your bit tip for wear on the sides (reduced diameter)
 check your bit tip for chipping
 rotate the bit counterclockwise (surprisingly, this really helps)

Also, if it starts to bind, you can:
 rotate it by hand while pushing it in with your other hand (without hammering). This "rounds out" the hole a bit.
 hit it lightly a few extra times in the zone where it is binding - this should also help round out the hole.

Bob and I both are using the Dan's "Bayonet" drill holders now.
I dislike the big cable wrist loop on the Hurricane because mine does not rotate easily on the shaft, so it gets in the way of rotating the holder.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
The idea was that the bits would be easy to remove which isn't always a good thing. The cinch strap will lock the bit in if you cinch it by the balls. Squeezing the handle by the balls with your hand will sometimes lock the bit in too. If you didn't get a strap I have some. I've also found some much better foam tubing. Better foam costs more too, about a buck an inch in the small quantities I'm buying.

I'm done giving away drill holders but I do have some of the short ones, the medium ones and a couple A-taper ones. I would happily part with the SDS ones for $80 and the A-taper ones for $50. Between materials, parts and tools I think I've got a couple grand into this little project so far. I'm pretty sure I'll never come out ahead.

Edit:
Also, I never use the loop when drilling. I work on the never drop anything principle. In fact, I don't think I've ever used the loop for anything but put one on because people seem to expect one. I'm working on making them spin easier. High end bicycle shifter cable is really nice since it is small diameter and has been run through a die or something so it has a really smooth surface. Can't afford to buy it for this application. Perhaps somebody has a bike shop and can collect any used cables from the trash.
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Sep 10, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
Squeezing the handle by the balls with your hand

Be careful, too much squeezing your handle might make you go blind.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
I imagine somebody yelling "it keeps pulling out." To which the reply is "squeeze the balls, that'll keep it in."
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
I'd be willing to trade one of my holders for any SDS holder in new or good condition. I want to do some comparison tests. Petzl, Hurricane, Pika but probably not the Fixe.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Sep 10, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
I do have the cinch Velcro so I will try to really tighten it up.

I think the foam is fine. I didn't realize the velcro was functional for holding the bit in place.

I have no problems with the strap/wire rotating on my hurricane. I got it from a friend so I think it is still pretty new. Perhaps less than 50 holes drilled.

The only thing wrong with my my hurricane is a loose grip. I guess I just need to re-epoxy it.

Thanks for the tips guys. It really helps!! Hopefully I'll get better at re-drilling holes. Right now it seems that it takes almost as long as a fresh hole.

 Luke
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 06:11pm PT
Dan,
You can borrow my Hurricane for awhile.
Plus these:
 Rawl A-taper, no rubber grip
 5.10 A-taper, with Rawl rubber grip. The heaviest of these.
 Petzl Rocpec, but the SDS retainer is broken. It's quite light. Too bad it doesn't last.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Looks like I will be at the facelift staying at Yellow Pines. I'll bring some holders and drills in case anybody would like to try one out. If you want one, bring money or something to trade.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
In the post linked below, I speculated:

I think you could shear off the torque screws if you put a wrench on it and tried to. So far I haven't had any trouble twisting by hand but I've been drilling new bolts not replacing bolts.

So I decided to torque test a drill holder. I clamped an 8mm bit I don't need in a vise and cranked on it with an 8 inch long wrench. I pulled 60 lbs (40 ft-lb) when the bit twisted like taffy. I think my holders work well enough when torqued.

I still have 6 of the 4 inch long ones and 4 of the 3-1/2 inch long ones. Also a couple A-Taper holders.


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2180408&msg=2180683#msg2180683

Torquing drill holder to 40 ft-lb
Torquing drill holder to 40 ft-lb
Credit: Banquo

3.5" holder with a 110x10mm SDS drill. 6 inches overall. ANSI standard...
3.5" holder with a 110x10mm SDS drill. 6 inches overall. ANSI standard for 3/8" carbide bits is 0.398-0.406" while for 10mm it is 0.402-0.411"
Credit: Banquo
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Oct 19, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
Hey there say....

Do you have any need for the old style rubber grips that fit the Rawl / FiveTen / FISH holders of yesteryear?

I have an assload of them and they need a project. The rubber is really dense and can be drilled or cut to fit all sorts of stuff.

Let me know.

Here is a pic stolen from 426:



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