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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 19, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
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Bump,
I thought Wayne Merry was tonight?? At least that's what the website sez...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 19, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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He is Ryan. Craig DeMartinello is the other speaker on Saturday Night. Maybr gf was talking about the other affair on Saturday?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 20, 2013 - 02:12am PT
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Maybr gf was talking about the other affair
Greg's having an affair? Man, Supertoprope is definitely the place to get all the latest.
Whatever. We made it to Squ'ish and will be here for a few days. Maybe go and heckle Tami tomorrow night.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Jul 20, 2013 - 04:02am PT
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That's Craig De Martino, Mike. The film Gimp Monkey's, about Craig, Pete Davis and Jarem Frye doing the first all amputee ascent of El Cap will show before Craig does a live presentation.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 20, 2013 - 04:06am PT
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Oops! My bad Wayne. Thanks for the correction. I'm really looking forward to speaking with him about his recovery.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2013 - 01:42am PT
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Nice pic, Jim. I wish I would have made it. I will tilt one anyway.
Cheers everyone!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 21, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
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Real sorry to miss your presentation Tammy. If you can do a handstand on the edge of a boat it was obvious that this contest was yours. I bet it was a close tie between you an Big Jim, maybe not :()
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 21, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
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Great to see old friends! And a real treat to meet Wayne for the first time. We skipped the presentations, though and caught up on sleep.
We got to bed late the night before, and Mari dragged me up a great new/old climb yesterday so going to the show would have just meant irritating people with my snoring.
And the new/old climb was terrific. Locals have been cleaning new things and re-cleaning old things up on the far end of the Shannon Falls Wall. Really nice area. We got on something called Chewbacca which is (I think) at least partly on the line of an old route called Snot. Whatever it's called, it was three really good pitches of 5.10 cracks (and a chimney). Beautifully clean and in a great position.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 21, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
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Great to meet old and new friends at the festival. I really liked Wayne's presentation on the 1st ascent of the Nose. Good stories, fabulous slides,and some details that never made it into the "official" histories. Such a gentle, modest guy.
Last night we had Tami, thoroughly pissed off that the promised large batch of Alpinist 44 mags hadn't arrived in time. She gave a very funny (what else?) performance-art talk; I just wish it could have been longer. And Craig DeMartinello gave a thoughtful and funny talk on climbing El Cap with two other disabled climbers. What all these guys/gals have done is amazing.
Couldn't stay for the pub night, maybe next year.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 21, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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A pleasure as always to meet old and new friends, hear some good stories, see some films, and stuff.
Glenn and I had an outing with Wayne on Friday afternoon, up to the base of the Grand Wall. Very pleasant! Here they are afterwards, after supper.
Wayne talking with Baz, one of the festival's steady volunteers, and showing equipment from the FA of the Nose of El Capitan - his story might have been titled "How I Climbed the Nose, and Found True Love". Wayne sent messages to his girlfriend during their twelve days on the last push, writing at night by headlight, and dropping the notes in cans, with streamers. Friends would find them, and mail them to his girlfriend. (Wayne still has them.) He decided that he'd like to marry her, proposed soon after, and they're still married, 54 years later.
Saturday Glenn and I went on a birds' nesting and treasure hunt expedition, to be reported later. Later some of the usual suspects were found having a delightful dinner with Wayne.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 22, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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Hey Anders, great to see you posting here. I look forward to your nesting report. Wish I coulda seen Tami's show last night, herd it was a "hoot"! Maybe u & Anders can get together & do some training with ur slack line & Anders fancy rock rings he won on Friday :-)
I did get a little piece of the festival tho & was fortunate enough to meet Tricouni & get to see Wayne Merry speak on Friday night- it was a really cool show, super interesting & entertaining!
Edit- Big Mike! They let u bring ur slurpee into the nice side of the brew pub I see :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 22, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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Ryan! Yes, the Howe Sound staff were quite accommodating with my slurpee.. Lol. Not to worry, i had a couple of rail ales too.
Dinner was a great time and many a fine tale was told. It was very nice to see everybody, and a rare treat to have them all in town at the same time!
I took a few snaps but mostly enjoyed myself.
Tami (giving me the evil eye) and Dave Harris
Wayne Merry and Glenn Woodsworth
Impromtu group photo
The show was quite entertaining. Tami demonstrated the fine art of shoving a halibut up one's buttocks and then whipped everyone's bottoms with her circus skills.
Craig De Martino's presentation was very inspiring, especially for someone like myself who can relate to his tragic injuries. It made me feel lucky to be where i'm at and we had a great chat after.
What a great weekend! Hope to do it again next year!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 22, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
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OK, so here's Ivan, who's been a if not the main organizer of SMF for some years now, not to mention other events around here.
But before the evening's festivities, Tricouni and I went searching for p'terodactyl eggs, and buried treasure. In 1961, he'd done the first ascent of South South Gully, with Arnold Shives, Tony Ellis, and Frank deBruyn. It was his first FA at Squamish, and the 1967 guide says "This short and easy route is one of the most popular at Squamish". It's in the guidebook - it must be true. It was a good route choice for a hot day, though, as it is oriented anything but south.
Later Glenn tied in with a bowline on a coil.
There were some tattered old lines at the various 'steps' in the gully, which apparently are used to approach a few climbs out on the arête to the side.
Somewhere around here we saw a troll, in his natural habitat.
They're quite shy, and he attempted to retreat to a nearby cave. (The original route climbs a broken area well to the right, then traverses left above what is a rather large chockstone.)
Some people nearby, apparently on Cerberus, or Kerberus if you like the new old Greek (Anastasia?).
The treasure hunt succeeds - we found a fixed vertical piton from 1961, at the base of a steep and apparently stout bit. At this point we had to retreat due to lack of time, but will return. Still, we were able to remove some of the old pin, using a rock as a hammer.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jul 22, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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How did I miss this?? :-\
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 23, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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How did I miss this?? :-
Uh... cuz you're a foreigner? Everybody knows Canadians don't invite foreigners to their parties. Even if you'd found out about it, you'd almost certainly have been turned away at the border.
Hmmm. Wait a minute. This morning's climbing was a veritable united nations. So... Oh, I understand. The French and Swedes, and whatever that other guy was probably didn't enter the country through the US.
But it's okay Tom. If you'd like to go to Squamish, I know the password and can get you across the border.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 23, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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Good strategy for MH and Nails to wear helmets while battling that fearsome Squish bush.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jul 23, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
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Uh... cuz you're a foreigner?
I so desperately want to learn the ways of the Canadian. They are so mysterious. And yes, please...help me cross the border again so that I can learn the ways of the Canadian climber, too.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jul 24, 2013 - 08:08am PT
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That's very helpful, Tami. Thank you. It's like it's another country, or something!
BTW, I picked up Alpinist yesterday, and am loving your article!
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