Squamish Mountain Festival

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Messages 1 - 50 of total 50 in this topic
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 11, 2013 - 01:51am PT
I can't believe that it starts next week and none of you hosers have started a thread.

http://www.squamishmountainfestival.com/

Who is going? I am going to try and make it on Sat. and Sun.

Is it even possible to get a room in town? Probably a dumb question.

gf

climber
Jul 11, 2013 - 02:05am PT
i think a bunch of rooms are booked out for the gondola workers, but don't worry wayno, plenty to go round

gf
cmcc

Trad climber
Redding, CA
Jul 11, 2013 - 02:13am PT
We were there last year and had no problem getting a camp site.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2013 - 02:23am PT
I will probably have a wife and an old dog. I don't want to camp.

Edit- I will camp if I have to, That's not really an issue. The F-150 with the shell is just cozy with even the dog.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 11, 2013 - 11:58am PT
Bump
bakesale

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Jul 11, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
I'm heading up and as usual camping at Chek fri-sun. Last year was good and I even took a clinic. Hope this year is even better.
Dr. Christ

Mountain climber
State of Mine
Jul 11, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
Love Squamish.

Never met a Canadian I didn't like, except Scott, he's a dick.

Sounds like fun, but I won't be there.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jul 12, 2013 - 02:25am PT
Lol Wes. Too bad. I'd love to meet ya.

I'm going, buddy! I got tickets for wednesday night and saturday night. I'd love to go see Wayne Merry on Friday too but don't know if i'll be able to make it.

There should be quite a few available rooms Wayno. Bmacd has stayed squamish hotels a bit, maybe shoot him an email for recco's.

Edit: Oh yeah, Tami is presenting on Saturday!!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 12, 2013 - 02:42am PT
Oh, dear.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jul 12, 2013 - 02:43am PT
^^^
Lol..
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jul 13, 2013 - 03:23am PT
Bump for Wayno
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2013 - 04:03am PT
I tried so damn hard to pull it it off but I can"t make it. I am actually kinda bummed out. But the week after is looking really good...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jul 18, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
Hey Wayno,

That's cool. Hope to see you soon!

I went to the show last night, it was really good. Looking forward to the next couple night's presentations.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 18, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
Party down lads!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 18, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
I tried so damn hard to pull it it off.........


AAGGHGHGGHH!!!!!! Wayno fer the luvvagawd LEAVE IT ALONE !!! DON'T PULL IT OFF !!!


GUFFAW !!!!


We'll miss you here. Yeah, I'm yappin' Sat night. A short little one ; I have been given 15 mins. No slides, just some yap. Will be interesting.

I hope.


Snicker.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:04am PT
A short little one

No kidding.

Looks like we'll be heading up. Not sure if we'll take part in the festivities or not, but we'll be available for climbing eating and drinking.
MH2

climber
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:30am PT
we'll be available for climbing eating

?

Is this what happens to a route developer who's been doing it for too long?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:39am PT
Is this what happens to a route developer who's been doing it for too long?

No, it's what happens to a writer who has been overwhelmed by deadlines and responded by opening another bottle and saying "F*#k it. I'm gonna get drunk and hang out on supertoprope where I can be sloppy with my words."

Which is to say, I won't be available for climbing (I'm much too short to be a worthwhile objective), eating (who wants to eat a gnarly old human), or drinking (you gonna open one of my veins?). But I will be in Squ'ish for the weekend, and look forward to seeing some of you. And sharing climbs, food, and drinks.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2013 - 12:58am PT
AAGGHGHGGHH!!!!!! Wayno fer the luvvagawd LEAVE IT ALONE !!! DON'T PULL IT OFF !!!

Too late. I tried too hard.

Big cheer to all at the fest!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 19, 2013 - 01:42am PT
Too late. I tried too hard.

Don't despair. I've got a consolation prize to uncork for you if you come over on Monday or Tuesday
gf

climber
Jul 19, 2013 - 02:16am PT
Just in from the wed night showing but got there late due to a slight detour to the shining sea traverse and a swim off same rocks. Sarahs' presentation was stunning, shattered was pretty damm real and wide boyz?
Well they seem to have achieved their goal of some kind of perverse domination.
Can't wait for Wayne Merry on Sat night
Oh yeah, Tami's the warmup act :/
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2013 - 02:22am PT
I got to meet and chat with Wayne Merry at the Oakdale Festival. I think you will not be disappointed. A great guy!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jul 19, 2013 - 03:05am PT
Looking forward to seeing some people! Who's up for some cragging on saturday??
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2013 - 03:33am PT
Hmmm... ...Saturday... What am I doing... Oh yeah, sweating in a kitchen... oh welll... my spirit will be with you....

Such is life.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 19, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
Bump,


I thought Wayne Merry was tonight?? At least that's what the website sez...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jul 19, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
He is Ryan. Craig DeMartinello is the other speaker on Saturday Night. Maybr gf was talking about the other affair on Saturday?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 19, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
Oh yeah, Tami's the warmup act :/

Unsure how to take that Mister Foodeater........
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 20, 2013 - 02:12am PT
Maybr gf was talking about the other affair

Greg's having an affair? Man, Supertoprope is definitely the place to get all the latest.

Whatever. We made it to Squ'ish and will be here for a few days. Maybe go and heckle Tami tomorrow night.
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Jul 20, 2013 - 04:02am PT
That's Craig De Martino, Mike. The film Gimp Monkey's, about Craig, Pete Davis and Jarem Frye doing the first all amputee ascent of El Cap will show before Craig does a live presentation.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jul 20, 2013 - 04:06am PT
Oops! My bad Wayne. Thanks for the correction. I'm really looking forward to speaking with him about his recovery.
gf

climber
Jul 20, 2013 - 05:21am PT
Unsure how to take that Mister Foodeater........
boy a fellow can get into all kinds of trouble not checking his calendar from who speaks when.....
Tami -it was a riff on a previous post :/
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jul 21, 2013 - 12:43am PT
Some good company showed up for supper tonight with Wayne Merry.
It was nice to meet you Wayne !

Tami, Ghost, Fossil Climber and Tricouni:
Credit: Jim Brennan
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2013 - 01:42am PT
Nice pic, Jim. I wish I would have made it. I will tilt one anyway.

Cheers everyone!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 21, 2013 - 03:08am PT
And I won the handstand contest!!! Won a coolio slackline fer my efforts. SHUT DOWN THEM YOUNGUNS !!! HAHAAHAH!!!


Fabulous to meet Wayne M & to see old friends again. Salut to all of you.

I really enjoyed Craig's presentation.

harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jul 21, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Real sorry to miss your presentation Tammy. If you can do a handstand on the edge of a boat it was obvious that this contest was yours. I bet it was a close tie between you an Big Jim, maybe not :()
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 21, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Great to see old friends! And a real treat to meet Wayne for the first time. We skipped the presentations, though and caught up on sleep.

We got to bed late the night before, and Mari dragged me up a great new/old climb yesterday so going to the show would have just meant irritating people with my snoring.

And the new/old climb was terrific. Locals have been cleaning new things and re-cleaning old things up on the far end of the Shannon Falls Wall. Really nice area. We got on something called Chewbacca which is (I think) at least partly on the line of an old route called Snot. Whatever it's called, it was three really good pitches of 5.10 cracks (and a chimney). Beautifully clean and in a great position.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 21, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Awww, heck, David, you only missed me kickin' some young bucks in a handstand contest.

A bit of a sandbag really........hee hee heee.


I won a SLACK LINE !!! YOWZA .


But DAMN. Now I can't bag on Slackers any more.


SNICKER!
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jul 21, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
Great to meet old and new friends at the festival. I really liked Wayne's presentation on the 1st ascent of the Nose. Good stories, fabulous slides,and some details that never made it into the "official" histories. Such a gentle, modest guy.

Last night we had Tami, thoroughly pissed off that the promised large batch of Alpinist 44 mags hadn't arrived in time. She gave a very funny (what else?) performance-art talk; I just wish it could have been longer. And Craig DeMartinello gave a thoughtful and funny talk on climbing El Cap with two other disabled climbers. What all these guys/gals have done is amazing.

Couldn't stay for the pub night, maybe next year.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 21, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
A pleasure as always to meet old and new friends, hear some good stories, see some films, and stuff.

Glenn and I had an outing with Wayne on Friday afternoon, up to the base of the Grand Wall. Very pleasant! Here they are afterwards, after supper.
Credit: Mighty Hiker

Wayne talking with Baz, one of the festival's steady volunteers, and showing equipment from the FA of the Nose of El Capitan - his story might have been titled "How I Climbed the Nose, and Found True Love". Wayne sent messages to his girlfriend during their twelve days on the last push, writing at night by headlight, and dropping the notes in cans, with streamers. Friends would find them, and mail them to his girlfriend. (Wayne still has them.) He decided that he'd like to marry her, proposed soon after, and they're still married, 54 years later.
Credit: Mighty Hiker

Saturday Glenn and I went on a birds' nesting and treasure hunt expedition, to be reported later. Later some of the usual suspects were found having a delightful dinner with Wayne.
Tami, Ghost, Wayne, Tricouni, Mari, Trudi, Jim Brennan, Big Mike, Phil...
Tami, Ghost, Wayne, Tricouni, Mari, Trudi, Jim Brennan, Big Mike, Phil, Dave.
On chair: my cool sunhat.
Credit: Mighty Hiker
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 22, 2013 - 12:29am PT
Hey Anders, great to see you posting here. I look forward to your nesting report. Wish I coulda seen Tami's show last night, herd it was a "hoot"! Maybe u & Anders can get together & do some training with ur slack line & Anders fancy rock rings he won on Friday :-)

I did get a little piece of the festival tho & was fortunate enough to meet Tricouni & get to see Wayne Merry speak on Friday night- it was a really cool show, super interesting & entertaining!


Edit- Big Mike! They let u bring ur slurpee into the nice side of the brew pub I see :-)
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jul 22, 2013 - 01:00pm PT

Ryan! Yes, the Howe Sound staff were quite accommodating with my slurpee.. Lol. Not to worry, i had a couple of rail ales too.

Dinner was a great time and many a fine tale was told. It was very nice to see everybody, and a rare treat to have them all in town at the same time!

I took a few snaps but mostly enjoyed myself.

Tami (giving me the evil eye) and Dave Harris


Wayne Merry and Glenn Woodsworth


Impromtu group photo


The show was quite entertaining. Tami demonstrated the fine art of shoving a halibut up one's buttocks and then whipped everyone's bottoms with her circus skills.

Craig De Martino's presentation was very inspiring, especially for someone like myself who can relate to his tragic injuries. It made me feel lucky to be where i'm at and we had a great chat after.

What a great weekend! Hope to do it again next year!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 22, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
OK, so here's Ivan, who's been a if not the main organizer of SMF for some years now, not to mention other events around here.
Credit: Mighty Hiker

But before the evening's festivities, Tricouni and I went searching for p'terodactyl eggs, and buried treasure. In 1961, he'd done the first ascent of South South Gully, with Arnold Shives, Tony Ellis, and Frank deBruyn. It was his first FA at Squamish, and the 1967 guide says "This short and easy route is one of the most popular at Squamish". It's in the guidebook - it must be true. It was a good route choice for a hot day, though, as it is oriented anything but south.
Tricouni, racking up.
Tricouni, racking up.
Credit: Mighty Hiker
Later Glenn tied in with a bowline on a coil.
The approach - somewhere here he dropped his helmet, which bounced qui...
The approach - somewhere here he dropped his helmet, which bounced quite nicely.
Credit: Mighty Hiker
There were some tattered old lines at the various 'steps' in the gully, which apparently are used to approach a few climbs out on the arÍte to the side.
Peter Winter, chair of the Access Society, en route to some desperate,...
Peter Winter, chair of the Access Society, en route to some desperate, after the morning's Adopt-a-Crag.
Credit: Mighty Hiker
Somewhere around here we saw a troll, in his natural habitat.
Credit: Tricouni
They're quite shy, and he attempted to retreat to a nearby cave. (The original route climbs a broken area well to the right, then traverses left above what is a rather large chockstone.)
photo not found
Missing photo ID#312374
Some people nearby, apparently on Cerberus, or Kerberus if you like the new old Greek (Anastasia?).
Credit: Mighty Hiker
The treasure hunt succeeds - we found a fixed vertical piton from 1961, at the base of a steep and apparently stout bit. At this point we had to retreat due to lack of time, but will return. Still, we were able to remove some of the old pin, using a rock as a hammer.
Remnants of fixed pin from 1961.
Remnants of fixed pin from 1961.
Credit: Mighty Hiker
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 22, 2013 - 08:41pm PT
Great pix & hilarious commentary Anders !

I too greatly enjoyed Craig's talk.

Thanks fer da pix Big Mike!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jul 22, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
How did I miss this?? :-\
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 23, 2013 - 12:30am PT
How did I miss this?? :-

Uh... cuz you're a foreigner? Everybody knows Canadians don't invite foreigners to their parties. Even if you'd found out about it, you'd almost certainly have been turned away at the border.

Hmmm. Wait a minute. This morning's climbing was a veritable united nations. So... Oh, I understand. The French and Swedes, and whatever that other guy was probably didn't enter the country through the US.

But it's okay Tom. If you'd like to go to Squamish, I know the password and can get you across the border.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Jul 23, 2013 - 12:47am PT
Good strategy for MH and Nails to wear helmets while battling that fearsome Squish bush.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jul 23, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
Uh... cuz you're a foreigner?

I so desperately want to learn the ways of the Canadian. They are so mysterious. And yes, please...help me cross the border again so that I can learn the ways of the Canadian climber, too.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 23, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
Oh, dear.

Okay, Tom, heerz some tips.

1. It's "root" not "rowt"

2. A woolen winter hat is a "toque" ( "tooke" )

3. Taxes are due 30 April. Not the fifteenth.

4. Set off fireworks on Halloween. Not some random day in early July.

5. Canada has two official languages; typically our Prime Minister speaks neither.

6. Speakin' of Halloween, best costume to wear for trick or treating is a polar explorer ... unless you live on the Left Coast, in which case it's a jellyfish.

7. Cdn navy vessels carry booze legally. Yers don't. Guffaw.

mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jul 24, 2013 - 08:08am PT
That's very helpful, Tami. Thank you. It's like it's another country, or something!

BTW, I picked up Alpinist yesterday, and am loving your article!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:25am PT
Grin & thanks!
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