Climbers lodge in Eldorado Canyon?

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o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jul 12, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
I’ve been following this thread since the beginning and I am not surprised that the American Alpine Club has decided to not go forward with its proposed hostel project.
I moved to Eldorado Canyon in the winter of 1971. I lived in a delightful little rundown cabin with the words “We Blew Inn” written in bottle caps above the front door. The cabin was located just west of where the post office is today.
That was the period where I discovered the sport that directed my life for the next thirty five years.
For my first twenty years of climbing I spent the lion’s share of my free time doing routes and often just hanging out in that wonderful place. It is where I first encountered and shared adventures with many of the lifelong friends. Many of which I still have today.
When I moved away from that little cabin I continued to spend many weekends in Eldorado. We would rent a space in the little campground across the bridge from Supremacy Slab. It was a great little camp ground. We got to know Mr. Fowler pretty well and often he would hang out with us and shoot the breeze till early evening. Often we would be the only ones in that little camp area. It wasn’t cheep but by today’s standards it was a steal.
There is something magic in waking early on a summer morning to the sound of the creek and after coffee and a bite to eat, shouldering your pack and going out climbing till lunch. Then we would hang out by the creek during the heat of the day and then do another route in the cool of the evening.
I know that it’s probably a pipe dream but I would love to see a small (walk in only) campground maintained by the state Park Service in that same spot in Eldorado Canyon.
Why wouldn’t it work? Many Colorado State parks have campgrounds.
BTW:I am planning on climbing some of my favorite moderate traditional classics in Eldorado Canyon in early August while I attend to some issues at my house in Bear Creek Canyon. I might be looking for some mid week partners to hook up with if my regular guys are busy with work.
Olaf Mitchell


DanaB

climber
CT
Jul 12, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
would be stampeded and overrun by Mexicans

JLP,

The above is part of what you wrote. If you had any courage, you'd have signed your name. There is a lot of ignorant crap posted on this site, but this is top ten material.


Dana Bartlett
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Jul 12, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
JLP said:
An open public campground that close to the Front Range would be stampeded and overrun by Mexicans, rednecks, white trash and motorheads...

You are a bigoted, cowardly as#@&%e.
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Jul 12, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
just curious. using white trash is not bigoted but mexican is?
SalNichols

Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
Jul 13, 2013 - 01:26am PT
I'm not sure that I see the offense, unless it was the omission of the modifier "Americans", as in Mexican Americans, either of which beats the hell out of Spic, which is roughly equivalent to "cheap white trash" e.g. residents of E.S.
DanaB

climber
CT
Jul 13, 2013 - 08:36am PT
just curious. using white trash is not bigoted but mexican is?

No, the use of white trash is also very offensive.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 13, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
I thought JLP was being sarcastic... poking at both the inclusiveness of the Eldorado Springs opponents and to the bourgeois affectations of the climbing community...

...that't the way JLP rolls...

but some feel that sarcasm has to be recognizable as such to "qualify." Obviously this interpretation of JLP's post is not universal.

philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jul 13, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
O-Man, get a hold of me when your in town if you have an open day for craggin'.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jul 14, 2013 - 12:17am PT
QuO-Man, get a hold of me when your in town if you have an open day for craggin'.ote Here
I sure will Phil. That would be a lot of fun!
Turok

Trad climber
Jul 14, 2013 - 01:05am PT
Nice to see your post Olaf. I trust you are still getting your fair share of waves.

I began climbing in Eldorado in '66 with Dickon Arndt and Paul Sibley. I moved from Boulder to the "Rocky Roost" cabin in Eldo in the Spring of 1970. I am fortunate indeed to have purchased a small cottage on the creek in 1981 which currently serves as a rental. Although my knowledge of the community dynamic is somewhat dated, it is to some extent, comprehensive. I've seen many climbers and non-climbers come and go and a lot of changes take place. Some for the better, some for the worse. One thing remains the same, it has always been, and remains a privilege to live in the canyon. It's just a hell of a lot more expensive than it used to be.

When Jeff Lowe and I started the International Alpine School in '75 our students stayed at the upper campground during courses for the first couple of years. Truth is, I cannot recall a single unpleasant incident between the climbers, the townspeople or anyone else for that matter. Of course the upper campground is not the post office and the demographic of the community was somewhat different. For one thing there were a lot more climbers living in the canyon in those days--individuals who chose to live in the community because of the proximity to the canyon not in spite of the state park. The vibe was different, not necessarily better, just different and perhaps a bit more accepting of economic diversity. Anyway, when Bill and Luanne Fowler closed the campground we housed our students at the youth hostel in Boulder at Collage and 12th street. It worked very nicely. Probably still would if it were available. A key element was that we had an old Dodge van to transport the climbers to and from the hostel. Anyway, in my opinion, even though Eldorado Canyon does not seem as popular as it once was (I was just there for a week and other than the typical queue at the Bastile Crack, it was nearly empty) it will always be appreciated as a rare jewel to adventure (Trad) climbers. Fact is, in a town the size and reputation of Boulder, climbers should have access to convenient, affordable lodging(camping or hostel) allowing them access to the entire front range and RMNP. Now that a vociferous and somewhat organized "portion" of the Eldorado community have demonstrated though a petition and this forum that they do not "resonate" with a hostel near the community, perhaps the AAC could look to the Marshall or South Boulder area instead. Again, regardless of where it is, the Boulder area needs a venue to lodge visiting climbers. This has been a recognized need for as long as I can remember. I for one hope it happens sooner rather than later. It's a travesty that we are still kicking this around.

In closing let me say to "Pitbull": your thinly veiled threats while humorous, were also pathetic. Why would anyone take you seriously when you don't even have the sand in your sack to sign your posts with your real name. I realize that your selfish, cowardly objective was to stir-up the pot however what you actually did, was cast a nasty pallor on the townsfolk of Eldorado in general. I had the opportunity to speak with a number of long-time residents of the community while I was there recently and they expressed disgust with your diatribe. Curiously enough, some of them seemed to know you. In fact, the word on the street (or should I say dirt and magnesium chloride) is that "Pitbull" is actually a she, and that a competing offer for the post office was at the root of the dust-up. Pitbull, I suggest you stick to painting by the numbers until you've been in Eldo a while longer and get the feel of how things work. Observe your neighbors,(not the ones that burn their friends,(you know who you are), but the one's that have your back). You did everyone in town a disservice with your infantile rhetoric and rather than feeling that you accomplished your goal you should be ashamed of your debasement of the community at large. Long after the hostel issue has been forgotten, your character (or lack thereof) will remain an issue. Good luck with this.

Kevin Donald
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Jul 15, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
EDIT:
Kevin, Thank you for your response to this important issue facing Eldorado Springs.
I value your opinion higher than many due to the fact that for decades you were the quintessential Eldo Climber/ resident. Your ethics and celebrity were and still are to this day inspiring.
I hope our paths cross soon.
Like I stated up thread I am excited to revisit some of those delightful, traditional, rock climbing gems in Eldorado Canyon and feel the Stoke of that magic place.
BTW: I have been getting some great waves on the south side of the island this summer. I am probably going over there today in fact.
Cheers Olaf Mitchell

Turok

Trad climber
Colorado
Jul 16, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
Hi Olaf,
Thanks for your pumehana.
I just sent you a PM with my number. I will be in Eldorado from the 22nd till the 30th with my family.
Be nice to see you.

Cheers!
Kevin
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jul 16, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
Thanks too, Kevin. Well-put and the revelation regarding this Pitbull character is helpful as well.

If the AAC can find a bigger better location not too far away---in fact their stated hope and current intention---all's the better for everyone. Not having to shoehorn ourselves into that strange little berg would be a relief.
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