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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 30, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
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Well the old guys did the Nose in a single push but not in 24 hours.....oh well, the Earth is still on its axis and we still will have to pay taxes. Forty years away from wall climbing exacted its toll....so much to remember, not enough brain cells remaining.
We didn't get very high on our two training forays. Rock fall ended one two pitches up and I got knocked silly by an errant haul bag on the first pitch of the Stovelegs on the other.
On our ascent we reached Camp 4 in 13 plus hours and I knew the NIAD was not in the bag. I suggested to George that we bail and go back up for a fresh go. He responded that he had maxed out his vacation time, so we decided to continue. With the NIAD out of reach, we ratcheted back and continued up in a less hurried pace waking people up along the way. Boy was it cold, should have brought along warmer clothing. George also forgot to put new batteries in his headlamp. Other than that it was a fun night climbing beneath a star studded sky. I had completly forgotten how steep and awkward the upper dihedral is...well my last ascent was over 40 years ago.
George is back at work, I'm still in Yosemite with valuable lessons learned. Yep, I'm going back up. Okay my next partner ( Max Bolland, a 36 year old Bavarian I met in Patagonia ) is still in the puppy stage but I'll make sure I lead 50 plus percent of the pitches to make it legit.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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May 30, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
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Awesome Jim, glad you guys made it out ok with the rock fall and all, way to get after hit, hope I'm climbing that well in my older years :-)
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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May 30, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
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Awesome any way you look at it!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 30, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
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Well Played Sir James!!
I'm glad you didn't bail, and you probably are too. That would have been a huge disappointment, for George not to top out.
Congratulations Senior Senders!
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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May 30, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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Redefine "day" as "single push" and you got it.
What do we mean by a "day" anyway? Is it not a single interval of activity which ends with sleep?
Clinton had trouble with the definition of "be." Nixon recharacterized lies as statements that had become "inoperative." Churchill redefined lies as "terminological inexactitudes." A Donini "Day" (or a Donini/Lowe NIAD) can become a single push climb without a rest for sleep.
In any case, the climbing world is proud of this accomplishment by Donini and Lowe. Congratulations gentlemen!
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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May 30, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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You can do it, Jim! Now that it is fresh in your mind.
Get some good rest, set yourself up for success, and get an eeeearly start (better to climb in the dark when you are fresh and the climbing is easy . . .)
A lot of NAID teams climb the route multiple times before truly going for speed.
Good luck, man!
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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May 30, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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well next time it'll be the pouring down of hot oil. unless the aim is true ... DONINI SCORES!
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MH2
climber
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May 30, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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Very fine. Great to hear about.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 30, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
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Damn, I lost money. But good on yous for fighting the good fight.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 30, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
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Nice work Jim! I'd be hard pressed to do it in a day, even before i broke my back. Congrats!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 30, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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Inspiring none the less...great job both of you...must go do myself...
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 30, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
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Forty years after.....just being in shape to give it a go is an achievement in itself. Great effort.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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May 30, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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My husband used to say, there are old pilots and bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots.
I somehow think this could apply to mountain climbers. You've made it to the old part, so it would be perfectly sensible to avoid attempting too much of the bold stuff.
Some people think climbing is dangerous at any age. Chuckle
The fact that you're still able to climb in good style at this point makes you a hero in my book.
Take care and climb safe, oh and don't forget to enjoy the view.
All the best,
Susie
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 30, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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A "day" or not - it still rocks...
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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May 30, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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Still rockin' it -- love it!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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May 30, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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Donini humbled? It had to happen sooner or later. Good job, any way you look at it.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 30, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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Jim
Sometimes things happen that way. But you and George will
get it another time. Perhaps next year?
Have fun while you're out there!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 30, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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The fact that you're still able to climb in good style at this point makes you a hero in my book.
What Park Rat said!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 30, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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Good work anyway, Jim! Hope to see you in CoR in a couple weeks.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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May 30, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
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Hey Jim,
You and George still sent it! I am 53 and aching a bit here and there, but still getting up the captain every now and again. I loved that you guys continued on through the night to finish. Good on you both. Best of luck in your next attempt.
Cheers,
Doug
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