Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 106 of total 106 in this topic |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 30, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
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Well the old guys did the Nose in a single push but not in 24 hours.....oh well, the Earth is still on its axis and we still will have to pay taxes. Forty years away from wall climbing exacted its toll....so much to remember, not enough brain cells remaining.
We didn't get very high on our two training forays. Rock fall ended one two pitches up and I got knocked silly by an errant haul bag on the first pitch of the Stovelegs on the other.
On our ascent we reached Camp 4 in 13 plus hours and I knew the NIAD was not in the bag. I suggested to George that we bail and go back up for a fresh go. He responded that he had maxed out his vacation time, so we decided to continue. With the NIAD out of reach, we ratcheted back and continued up in a less hurried pace waking people up along the way. Boy was it cold, should have brought along warmer clothing. George also forgot to put new batteries in his headlamp. Other than that it was a fun night climbing beneath a star studded sky. I had completly forgotten how steep and awkward the upper dihedral is...well my last ascent was over 40 years ago.
George is back at work, I'm still in Yosemite with valuable lessons learned. Yep, I'm going back up. Okay my next partner ( Max Bolland, a 36 year old Bavarian I met in Patagonia ) is still in the puppy stage but I'll make sure I lead 50 plus percent of the pitches to make it legit.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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May 30, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
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Awesome Jim, glad you guys made it out ok with the rock fall and all, way to get after hit, hope I'm climbing that well in my older years :-)
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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May 30, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
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Awesome any way you look at it!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 30, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
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Well Played Sir James!!
I'm glad you didn't bail, and you probably are too. That would have been a huge disappointment, for George not to top out.
Congratulations Senior Senders!
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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May 30, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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Redefine "day" as "single push" and you got it.
What do we mean by a "day" anyway? Is it not a single interval of activity which ends with sleep?
Clinton had trouble with the definition of "be." Nixon recharacterized lies as statements that had become "inoperative." Churchill redefined lies as "terminological inexactitudes." A Donini "Day" (or a Donini/Lowe NIAD) can become a single push climb without a rest for sleep.
In any case, the climbing world is proud of this accomplishment by Donini and Lowe. Congratulations gentlemen!
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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May 30, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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You can do it, Jim! Now that it is fresh in your mind.
Get some good rest, set yourself up for success, and get an eeeearly start (better to climb in the dark when you are fresh and the climbing is easy . . .)
A lot of NAID teams climb the route multiple times before truly going for speed.
Good luck, man!
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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May 30, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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well next time it'll be the pouring down of hot oil. unless the aim is true ... DONINI SCORES!
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MH2
climber
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May 30, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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Very fine. Great to hear about.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 30, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
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Damn, I lost money. But good on yous for fighting the good fight.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 30, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
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Nice work Jim! I'd be hard pressed to do it in a day, even before i broke my back. Congrats!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 30, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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Inspiring none the less...great job both of you...must go do myself...
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 30, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
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Forty years after.....just being in shape to give it a go is an achievement in itself. Great effort.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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May 30, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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My husband used to say, there are old pilots and bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots.
I somehow think this could apply to mountain climbers. You've made it to the old part, so it would be perfectly sensible to avoid attempting too much of the bold stuff.
Some people think climbing is dangerous at any age. Chuckle
The fact that you're still able to climb in good style at this point makes you a hero in my book.
Take care and climb safe, oh and don't forget to enjoy the view.
All the best,
Susie
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 30, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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A "day" or not - it still rocks...
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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May 30, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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Still rockin' it -- love it!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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May 30, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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Donini humbled? It had to happen sooner or later. Good job, any way you look at it.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 30, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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Jim
Sometimes things happen that way. But you and George will
get it another time. Perhaps next year?
Have fun while you're out there!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 30, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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The fact that you're still able to climb in good style at this point makes you a hero in my book.
What Park Rat said!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 30, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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Good work anyway, Jim! Hope to see you in CoR in a couple weeks.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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May 30, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
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Hey Jim,
You and George still sent it! I am 53 and aching a bit here and there, but still getting up the captain every now and again. I loved that you guys continued on through the night to finish. Good on you both. Best of luck in your next attempt.
Cheers,
Doug
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 30, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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Oh the horror: NIAP rather than NIAD. Given the extra endurance required to keep going through the night, it might be physically more impressive for a newly-minted septuagenarian such as yourself. (Not that I would know; the nose in any time frame is not in my septuagenarian future.)
Anyway, cheers for what 99.99% of the population would consider an almost inconceivably outstanding feat, and best wishes for doing even better if that's your goal.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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May 30, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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Great job, you know this sport takes a lot of persistence.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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May 30, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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Jim,
At 62 next month all I can say is thank you and George for inspiring me off my fat ass. Time to do things I've never done, it may be getting late but there's still light!
Charlie D.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 30, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
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Good job! As they say nowadays "the monkeys are sending".
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 30, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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Pushing on past 24hrs continuous climbing!!?? NIAP! GDAMN! I'm even more impressed with the old legendary hardmen. Beginning to see why both of you were so incredibly successful. If at first you don't succeed just gut the damn thing out till it gives!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 30, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
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stoke is where you make it!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 30, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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Really impressive Jim.
Inspiring
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
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May 30, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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too bad you didn't get the NIAD, but sounds like you had fun.
good luck on the next one.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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May 30, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
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Awesome! I'm in my freaking 40s and am feeling it, Great to hear I have at least 30+ years to go!!11
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 30, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
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thanks for inspiration Jim, 14 years to Go for me..
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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May 30, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
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Wow, great attempt - i think you will getterdone next time... and thoroughly impressive as it is! Thanks for the post!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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May 30, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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Good effort guys! Nose in a push is a great achievement. I'm sure you'll fire it "in a day" next time.
Here's the original Nose In A Day article I wrote back in 1988. Back then, most of these techniques were new and innovative--now of course all standard stuff, with quite a bit of evolution. But perhaps there's a tip or two that might be useful for those not needing to break records...
http://www.deuce4.net/web/OrigNIAD.pdf
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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May 30, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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Pfffft. Slackers. :)
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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May 30, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
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Not giving up and climbing through the night... Batso would approve.
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Scott McNamara
climber
Tucson, Arizona
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May 30, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
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You guys are completely inspiring!
Jim, the other day when we spoke at the Oakhurst fruit stand, you were looking pretty honed.
NIAP;
Escaping getting killed by rockfall; and,
Escaping getting killed by a haul bag.
Hummmm, seems like a pretty lucky guy to me.
I think you better buy a lottery ticket this week---and visit the Curry ladies dorms.
Have Fun!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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May 30, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
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Amazing job, I'm sure if George had more time you would get it done. Since it was over 40 years last time up I'd pretty well call that an onsight. How many people of any age get the NIAD on their first go? Not many. Good luck on your next tour.
I just want to know what you eat for breakfast so I can start eating it.
Are there pics coming?
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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May 30, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
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Way to go Jim. George just needs to stop working for a bit longer next year and the record will be yours.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 30, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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Nice work Men!
You're doing us AARP- ers proud!!
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craig mo
Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
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May 30, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
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Very inspiring
so its a fail
to bail
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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May 30, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
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Hey Jim,
Climbing that thing is a single push is one hell of an effort. I second what Rgold said +1.
I'm going to get worked on Halfdome in less than 2 weeks. Perhaps you will still be around.
All the Best,
Steve
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 30, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
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Given the extra endurance required to keep going through the night, it might be physically more impressive for a newly-minted septuagenarian such as yourself.
or for most of us. bailing woulda been a whole lot easier. good on ya.
sounds like a great time in any event.
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ChizzDizzle
Trad climber
Rocklin,CA
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May 30, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
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How was meeting Kara? Did you guys talk about your Bieber
Collections??
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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May 30, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
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excellent and congratulations!! official monkeys now for sure.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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May 30, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
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It will be more significant when you two do the NIAD at the ages of 70+
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 30, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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You guys performed admirably considering the first two beat downs that could have been fatal.
Thanks for your inspiration to us all.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 30, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Good on yah George and Jim and Deuce4 that was a cool writeup and history in the making.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 30, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
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What else have you guys been climbing in preparation?
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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May 30, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
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No bail = No Fail
Way to go!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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Getting that puppy love thing again with the Valley, now we have to bring back Janis and Jimmie.
My next NIAD (attempt) partner , Max, is safely atop El Cap Tower with his lovely gf Steffi. They'll be down on Sunday and after a couple of rest days its back up on the Captain.
Climbing with George reminded me why the dude has put up so many ferocious alpine climbs....no quit in his DNA!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 30, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
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Well, I could have told you that running out of daylight won't turn George around.
He always uses that, "I don't have any more days" excuse!
We walked off Angel's Landing in climbing shoes in the dark rather than rap back to our approach shoes with 90 minutes of light left.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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May 30, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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This is unprecedented and amazing. Congratulations Jim and George!!!
Cheers!
Mark
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 30, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
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Good climbing guys!
Duece, thanks for the link. That's awesome!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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May 30, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
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way cool to keep after it. Arguably pluckier to climb into the night and finish the route (more than that: to do it, knowing NIAD wasn't going to happen, which had to have been disappointing) than actually sending NIAD. I'm impressed.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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May 30, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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Wonderful Jim. Glad to hear things are still going well up there and your interest in all this is actually blooming all over again, as you say, like puppy love.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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May 30, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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Well done young men
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 30, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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Cool Jim. Congratulation to both of you.
I would definitely need a nap.
Is there a definition of "in a push" that includes napping?
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micronut
Trad climber
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May 30, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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A massive undertaking and proud proud send.
You guys just need a little more general climbing experience and you'll be there. My recommendation for both of you would be to get out of the climbing gym and away from trade routes and just get experience climbing cracks. Maybe try an alpine route. Maybe travel outside of California if you haven't yet. You'll get there. Just give it another ten or fifteen years.
Scott
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 30, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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NIAP is a mega accomplishment
and just being in the Valley is always wonderful no matter what happens
congrats!
and best wishes for good luck on your next plan!
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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May 31, 2013 - 12:01am PT
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Congratulations to you both.... Certainly some record was broken as you have 139 years between the two of you. Just awesome!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 31, 2013 - 12:28am PT
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Lol Micro!!
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WBraun
climber
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May 31, 2013 - 12:43am PT
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Why would I want to climb El Cap?
It's impossibly too hard and what to speak of doing it before the deli closes.
No sane man goes near it ......
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 31, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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Is there a definition of "in a push" that includes napping?
Freakin' love that!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 31, 2013 - 03:23am PT
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Good try at the 24 hours....big adventure no doubt. Have fun on the rest of your yosemite vacation. Let's climb something in the desert next fall;......talk to you soon......enjoy!
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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May 31, 2013 - 03:33am PT
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Very well done!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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May 31, 2013 - 06:00am PT
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the stone remembers your flesh,
your flesh knows intimately your bones;
you have conditioned your skeleton to dance,
pretend el cap is a beautiful woman
and lead her thru a serenade
in step with the merry breezes
that song across the stone plane.
you see, jim,
make light of reality
and it concedes willingly
to your wiley will,
even in a day.
perhaps the plus tacked on to your in-a-day attempt
was not borne of your lack of training;
perhaps you are approaching your goal with shackles around
your dream...
for example,
when you are searching for a good hold
upon which to progress,
don't look around yourself to see what's
behind It.
look thru yourself and the holds will
meet you halfway;
and the sum of your moments will equal less than a day.
and your song will
end in a proper conclusion.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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May 31, 2013 - 08:24am PT
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Jim:
When your ready I have an extra rocking chair on the porch and I'll let you use my hands-free beer can opener.
Sooner or later you'll have to accept reality.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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May 31, 2013 - 08:52am PT
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Phil,
That was a really great post! It made me chuckle.
Now I HAVE to get out and at least hike.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 31, 2013 - 09:40am PT
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Why would I want to climb El Cap?
It's impossibly too hard and what to speak of doing it before the deli closes.
A man with the proper priorities.
Although some people get it done before the Deli opens.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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May 31, 2013 - 09:41am PT
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Rgold spoke for me upthread. ie "Given the extra endurance required to keep going through the night, it might be physically more impressive for a newly-minted septuagenarian such as yourself. ...cheers for what 99.99% of the population would consider an almost inconceivably outstanding feat, and best wishes for doing even better if that's your goal." Good for you guys getting on it and finishing the route Jim. Now take some geritol and take a nap, and you'll feel fine again in 5 or 6 rest days after the muscles stop aching:-)
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go-B
climber
Hebrews 1:3
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May 31, 2013 - 10:00am PT
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Proud as is Jim! Even Alex and Hans did a few runs to the top together before they did their record! Stay pcyched!
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tooth
Trad climber
B.C.
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May 31, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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Solid!
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Double D
climber
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May 31, 2013 - 11:19am PT
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Too legit to quit... good on ya!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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May 31, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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does anyone else get
sewing machine leg
when they post to a donini thread?
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crazytom
climber
Maine
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May 31, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
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Jim, that you're still climbing as hard as you do and even trying NIAD is a real inspiration!!!!!!!!!!
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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May 31, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Er, TFPU.
Old dog learns new tricks. Happens to the best of us, apparently.
Cheers on that
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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May 31, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
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Bumpity bump !
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 31, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
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Ok, I guess this means there's hope for all of us.
I plan to go for NIAPWAN!!
(Nose in a push with a nap)
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 31, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
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Napping while belaying worked well for one of my wall partners.
Hell I cannot blame him... I'm younger and slower than Donini and Lowe.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 31, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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Napping while belaying worked well for one of my wall partners.
A tried and true technique to be sure, but I have trouble sleeping through all that squealing and whimpering nearby.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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May 31, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
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Woot!!! Nice Jim and George. NIAD or NIAP is a great accomplishment for most, and at your guy's age? I'll have to be cognizant of George being in shape the this summer when we get out .... Could kick my young 53 year old ass....
Paul
PS See you next week?
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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May 31, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
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Nothing short of inspiring.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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May 31, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
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What was the actual time for the climb? I can't find that info without spending too much time. Is it 26 hours or........? Is it on the El Cap Report? Is there a TR ? It's impressive no matter what - that ain't no day climb! Congrats Jim. I said in the other thread I would consider it NIAD if you just kept moving. Cheers!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
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My next partner Max is currently with his radiant gf at Camp 6. I'll meet them at the top tomorrow with cold beers. Then after a few days rest for Max, it's back to the Nose!!!
I wanted to get out of my comfort zone and renew old rock climbing aquaintances as I entered my 70 th year...mission already accomplished. There is, however, a little bit of unfinished business.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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May 31, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
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A great motivator that, 'unfinished business', Jim. Look forward to hearing about your NIAD!
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 31, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
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Congrats on getting the job done, Jim and George!
Time is fleeting, but the deed remains.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de La Playa
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May 31, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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You shouldn't discount the impact of getting hit in the head as hard as you did.
My girlfriend was still exhibiting effects of a concussion she sustained when she banged her head in a fall nine months later. Also, 40 years is a lot of rust to shake off. I bet you'll pull it off on the second attempt, but think carefully about whether or not you've fully recovered from the headbanging.
Best to you on take two.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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I take back what I said about accepting Jim's climb as a handicapped NIAD. I don't know what I was thinking.....like he's old or something. I forgot 70 is the new 55!
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Hi Jim-
Way to keep at it and inspire all!
Cheers, Brian
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Amazing and inspirational!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jim! I'm sure you will have fun on the next run up the nose. See you soon!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Super cool from someone who probably won't get NIAL-ifetime.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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How many times did it take Hans to do the NIAD? You are kicking ass and taking names Jim. Keep up the stoke, cause it keeps the rest of us pumped and going for it!
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nita
Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
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Nothing short of inspiring no doubt ...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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NIAP is a much harder way to do it. Well done for not quitting.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Those OLD monkeys SENT
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Macronut
Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
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Amazing! Way to take on the Golden Years head on. Maybe a new Golden Age of Climbing for Yosemite is taking hold. Watch out Jim has unfinished business.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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again, like Nature said.
I'd be lucky to send it in a week.
Jim and George, another feat in unbelievable careers.
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nopantsben
climber
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ha Jim, good job! you knew that George wasn't going to bail from camp 4 when the niad chances were low.. he's not bailing.
well done, quite inspiring. good luck on the next go!
cheers
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kschmitz@bresnan.net schmitz
Mountain climber
Jackson, Wyoming
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67 years old and last time up Nose in the 60s but the NIAD still my dream. Kim S
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Welcome Kim,
I'm 67 as well, and although I'm sure you won't remember, we met around a table in camp 4 in 1970.
I'm sure a few of the older climbers here are glad you chimed in.
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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ahh,,old and bold,,getting out of bed at this age can be challingin what happend to chapman? proud of ya,mate,,,
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
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I'm back in Ouray. Hiked up on Saturday to meet my German friends Max and Steffi when they topped out on the Nose. I somehow strained the deltoid muscle on my left arm carrying a moderate load with an ill fitting pack. That combined with increasingly hot temps led to my decision to come back next May for another Nose climb, hopefully in a much better time. Maybe I'll find myself coming full circle to the 70's with annual pilgrimages to climbing's Mecca.....hallowed ground.
Everything is contingent on getting another sweet apartment set up in Yosemite West. Dirt bagging in Camp 4 is definitely, most definitely, most, most definitely NOT in the cards.
Yosemite Valley.....jaw dropping scenery, the center of the climbing world and one of the worst hangs that comes to mind. Oh well.....doesn't take much imagination to figure out why the hordes descend and for so many different reasons.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Welcome home, Jim.
Again, congrats on an unbelievable effort.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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It's the nose in a blow. Or the nose in one blow. Take your pick.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 16, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
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No offense, SuzeRat, but this Harding fellow would have gone for the NIABG, thus buttressing further his rep and those of his partners, like always.
Burgundy Glass.
I was away in desertoland with Cosmic at the time of this report, and so missed it.
Better luck in the further awesome adventures of Hard Core Donini, JD.
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| Messages 1 - 106 of total 106 in this topic |
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