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romand
climber
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May 15, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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Looking forward to the new book! I wonder if this means the current guide will be going out of print?
I always thought that a fold out guide would work really well for Tahquitz - similar to the Cramer guide to Granite Mtn, AZ.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 15, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
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I've always marveled at Bob's ability to ferret out new lines. I'd look at a cliff and think it's climbed out and he comes along and adds all these new lines, and they're good!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 15, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
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Climbed super pooper to price of fear today, in a light breeze and low 70's.
just doesn't get any better than a long, strenuous jamming pitch capped off with the most exposed 5.10 slab on the rock.
Life is good! Get out there!
:)
Just wait, kids, tahquitz north face cragging will soon be all the rage. Climb 10 stellar pitches in the shade on Saturday in July, all to yourself.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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May 15, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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Climb 10 stellar pitches in the shade on Saturday in July, all to yourself.
Not!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 15, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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Open your eyes TGT, and get off Sahara/wlong/whodunit :)
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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May 15, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
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I think I've done everything there 10a and under other than maybe the Y cracks and a few obscurities.
The N side has plenty of routes that don't have lines, but you are never out of earshot or sight of other parties.
This ain't the 70's when you could have a whole face to yourself.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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I feel like I got a great deal, but I hope the discount doesn't mean that Bob gets short changed.
Thanks Dave....I get the same royalty no matter what price amazon sells it at. I say, go for the pre-publication discount!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
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available today on amazon.com for a pre-publication discount price of $15.45
the price fluctuates, but this is the lowest I've seen it!
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Lloyd Campbell
Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
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May 16, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
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Purely an academic question, but the last version of the full guidebook came out in what... 2001? So how come a select guide now instead of an updated full guide, given that it's been 12 years since the last full version? This will effectively kill any full guidebook for a few years until Falcon runs out of the select books, right? Anways, just curious...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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I was wondering the same thing. I never buy select guides--they just cram everyone onto the same routes. But if it's got all the new routes incorporated into it I guess I kind of have to.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
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Although it's a "Best Climbs" book, this one is fairly comprehensive, much more so than your average "select" book and includes a majority of the new routes done since the 2001 book.
It also gives you some new spots to check out: Owl Rock, Diamondback Buttress, The Gate Cliff, Hinterland Wall, St. Pauli Girl Slab, and Triple Threat Arete.
The 2001 book will still be available, and includes the obscure and less traveled routes.
Go up to Tahquitz on a weekend and you'll see people on the same routes time and time again- climbers want to climb the quality routes, and they're a known entity.
If you want to avoid the crowds, weekdays at Tahquitz are like a dream come true, you can often have the place all to yourself!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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Anything on One Hour Rock?
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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Didn't include One Hour Rock.
Kelly Vaught and Frank Bentwood did a couple of new routes up there in recent years, but besides that, all the routes are ancient and in need of bolt replacement.
Although the quality of the rock is excellent- some of the best granite in Idyllwild, the approach trail is non-existent, and getting around the base of the rock and up and around the various tiers of cliffs involves horrendous bushwhacking and sliding around on pine needle-covered dirt, which really detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.
The good news is that unlike Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, there is great potential for new routes, and if you make the arduous approach you'll likely have the crag all to yourself, even on the most crowded weekend.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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May 17, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
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Looking forward to your book, Bob.
Does anyone remember/climb with Dave Mahr from Glendora? We met through the de St. Croix brothers. In the early '70s, Dave and I did several one pitch routes on the cliff bands behind me in this picture, and a 2-3 pitch route on the rock just between Andrea and me (about 5.9). We used all nuts, and didn't place any bolts. Wondering if you have a name for that area? I'll check out the book.
Cheers Andrea!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 17, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
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I had a buddy, Eric Held, who always called that area (to the left of the N. Face when you're facing it) Pink Floyd's Wall. That was late 70s. Can't say I ever heard anyone else call it that though.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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Nice summit high five!
Not sure of any name for that cliff, I believe Owl Rock is below it.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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May 17, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
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$15.75
Best deal I ever got on a brand spankin' new guidebook!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
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$16.06 today on amazon....not sure how much longer the pre-publication deal will last.
Release date revised to June 18.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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May 26, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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Fat Dad...I did some foraging in that area with a guy named steve mackay back in 75...Steve also called it the Pink Floyd wall ...There was a little water fall on the way up there that steve called the Pink Floyd health spa...We liked to jump into the cold water before every climb to purify our souls...
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