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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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My new guidebook Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks is now at the printer, scheduled for publication on June 16. All color, with 288 routes, including 45 new routes not in the 2001 edition. It has 155 routes on Tahquitz and 133 routes on Suicide Rock, all with topos and detailed pitch by pitch descriptions.
It also features color action photos by Greg Epperson and Kevin Powell. It's available right now for a pre-publication order at amazon.com, or you can pick one up this summer at Nomad Ventures Climbing Shop in Idyllwild ($25)
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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I guess "snakes on everything" didn't make the cut
how about the "Le Toilet"??
Hi Craig,
Le Toitlette is in! ....need to upgrade those 2 bolts!!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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I like that one...nice thin slab moves on great rock...although it ain't no sport climb!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 13, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
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nice...
mine'll be on its way
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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May 13, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
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Bob, what's The Trough rated now?
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MisterE
Social climber
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May 13, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
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Nice, Bob! Skip and I will definitely be getting this one - congrats on getting it done!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 14, 2013 - 12:22am PT
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Nice Bob, I can't wait to see it.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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May 14, 2013 - 10:42am PT
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It looks beautiful, Bob. I'll be buying a copy (even though it's an eight hour drive away, and I've done just about all the route there I plan on doing - it looks like a worthy addition even just for reading over).
Any chance you could drop everything else you're doing in life and do a full, comprehensive guidebook to the area with the same level of detail and coverage? :) :)
Sorry, just dreaming.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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May 14, 2013 - 11:03am PT
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Strong work, Bob.
However, I can't find the " pre-publication discount ($16) at amazon.com."
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 14, 2013 - 11:32am PT
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Hey Bob
I climbed Grace Slick recently and saw 2 fresh lines on either arete right and left, will those be in the new book?
How about routes behind tahquitz? Will there be FA info or will Randy's book still be in print (love the history in that book).
Really psyched to check this book out, your Josh guide had some great new routes I hadn't previously seen and all of your routes I've been on have been awesome, so thanks for that as well!
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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May 14, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
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cool..
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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May 14, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
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My preorder in is. Thanks for letting us know!
Eric
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 14, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
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However, I can't find the " pre-publication discount ($16) at amazon.com."
Interesting, yesterday when I went to Amazon I was able to place an order at the "pre-order price" of $16 - but today I checked Amazon and see that it says "$24.95" however it still states the "Pre-order Price Guarantee." Odd.
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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May 14, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
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Let me know if Amazon gets fixed and I'll preorder too : )
bumpski!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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Bob, what's The Trough rated now?
Hi Gary,
5.4 ** (2 out of three stars) in the new book
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 14, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
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Yes that's etude. Looks a bit like Alison Tudor, but I could be wrong...
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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May 14, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
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G davis-
Those routes by grace slick are Partners in Crime and Coup de Grace.
I've only climbed Coup, it was a calf and toe burner for me.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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May 14, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
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I don't know about the $16 pre-order price, but Amazon is constantly adjusting prices based on demand and what they see you doing on Amazon and how long you wait. And pricing may vary from customer to customer. For some items, if you go to a page and let it sit there for a few hours, or revisit is later on, often the price will be less as an enticement to buy. This has happened to me a few times. A form of electronic bargaining, so to speak.
Eric
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
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I climbed Grace Slick recently and saw 2 fresh lines on either arete right and left, will those be in the new book?
How about routes behind tahquitz? Will there be FA info or will Randy's book still be in print (love the history in that book).
Hi GDavis,
Both of those routes are in the new book. The one to the left of Grace Slick is called Patners in Crime (5.10a PG *), and the one to the right of Grace Slick is a 4-pitch slab route called Coup de Grace (5.10b PG *)
The book also includes several areas to the east of the main Tahquitz Rock, including Owl Rock, Diamondback Buttress, The Gate Cliff, The Hinterland Wall, St. Pauli Girl Slab, and the North Gully Wall.
First ascent info is included with every route, plus there is a History chapter (edited by John Long) that includes some historical action photos of Chuck Wilts, Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, Ivan Couch, John Long, and Darrell Hensel in action.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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May 14, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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I know some are on a budget, but even at $25, anything written by Bob is going to be a great deal. Especially knowing the immense time and effort that goes into producing a good guide book.
Cheers,
Eric
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romand
climber
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May 15, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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Looking forward to the new book! I wonder if this means the current guide will be going out of print?
I always thought that a fold out guide would work really well for Tahquitz - similar to the Cramer guide to Granite Mtn, AZ.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 15, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
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I've always marveled at Bob's ability to ferret out new lines. I'd look at a cliff and think it's climbed out and he comes along and adds all these new lines, and they're good!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 15, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
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Climbed super pooper to price of fear today, in a light breeze and low 70's.
just doesn't get any better than a long, strenuous jamming pitch capped off with the most exposed 5.10 slab on the rock.
Life is good! Get out there!
:)
Just wait, kids, tahquitz north face cragging will soon be all the rage. Climb 10 stellar pitches in the shade on Saturday in July, all to yourself.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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May 15, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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Climb 10 stellar pitches in the shade on Saturday in July, all to yourself.
Not!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 15, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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Open your eyes TGT, and get off Sahara/wlong/whodunit :)
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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May 15, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
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I think I've done everything there 10a and under other than maybe the Y cracks and a few obscurities.
The N side has plenty of routes that don't have lines, but you are never out of earshot or sight of other parties.
This ain't the 70's when you could have a whole face to yourself.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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I feel like I got a great deal, but I hope the discount doesn't mean that Bob gets short changed.
Thanks Dave....I get the same royalty no matter what price amazon sells it at. I say, go for the pre-publication discount!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
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available today on amazon.com for a pre-publication discount price of $15.45
the price fluctuates, but this is the lowest I've seen it!
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Lloyd Campbell
Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
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May 16, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
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Purely an academic question, but the last version of the full guidebook came out in what... 2001? So how come a select guide now instead of an updated full guide, given that it's been 12 years since the last full version? This will effectively kill any full guidebook for a few years until Falcon runs out of the select books, right? Anways, just curious...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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I was wondering the same thing. I never buy select guides--they just cram everyone onto the same routes. But if it's got all the new routes incorporated into it I guess I kind of have to.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
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Although it's a "Best Climbs" book, this one is fairly comprehensive, much more so than your average "select" book and includes a majority of the new routes done since the 2001 book.
It also gives you some new spots to check out: Owl Rock, Diamondback Buttress, The Gate Cliff, Hinterland Wall, St. Pauli Girl Slab, and Triple Threat Arete.
The 2001 book will still be available, and includes the obscure and less traveled routes.
Go up to Tahquitz on a weekend and you'll see people on the same routes time and time again- climbers want to climb the quality routes, and they're a known entity.
If you want to avoid the crowds, weekdays at Tahquitz are like a dream come true, you can often have the place all to yourself!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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Anything on One Hour Rock?
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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Didn't include One Hour Rock.
Kelly Vaught and Frank Bentwood did a couple of new routes up there in recent years, but besides that, all the routes are ancient and in need of bolt replacement.
Although the quality of the rock is excellent- some of the best granite in Idyllwild, the approach trail is non-existent, and getting around the base of the rock and up and around the various tiers of cliffs involves horrendous bushwhacking and sliding around on pine needle-covered dirt, which really detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.
The good news is that unlike Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, there is great potential for new routes, and if you make the arduous approach you'll likely have the crag all to yourself, even on the most crowded weekend.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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May 17, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
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Looking forward to your book, Bob.
Does anyone remember/climb with Dave Mahr from Glendora? We met through the de St. Croix brothers. In the early '70s, Dave and I did several one pitch routes on the cliff bands behind me in this picture, and a 2-3 pitch route on the rock just between Andrea and me (about 5.9). We used all nuts, and didn't place any bolts. Wondering if you have a name for that area? I'll check out the book.
Cheers Andrea!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 17, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
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I had a buddy, Eric Held, who always called that area (to the left of the N. Face when you're facing it) Pink Floyd's Wall. That was late 70s. Can't say I ever heard anyone else call it that though.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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Nice summit high five!
Not sure of any name for that cliff, I believe Owl Rock is below it.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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May 17, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
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$15.75
Best deal I ever got on a brand spankin' new guidebook!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
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$16.06 today on amazon....not sure how much longer the pre-publication deal will last.
Release date revised to June 18.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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May 26, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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Fat Dad...I did some foraging in that area with a guy named steve mackay back in 75...Steve also called it the Pink Floyd wall ...There was a little water fall on the way up there that steve called the Pink Floyd health spa...We liked to jump into the cold water before every climb to purify our souls...
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other
Trad climber
LA, CA
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May 27, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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Are the topos, gear lists, photos, route descriptions more detailed/informative then the latest Vogel guide? Is it like a supertopo version?
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
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Are the topos, gear lists, photos, route descriptions more detailed/informative then the latest Vogel guide? Is it like a supertopo version?
Yes, text descriptions are much more detailed, with pitch by pitch written descriptions.
The topos are photo diagram style (like in my book Best Climbs Joshua Tree National Park), with the routes drawn over actual photos of the cliff. There are also 14 pages of old school hand-drawn topos for bolt intensive areas like the Weeping Wall, Sunshine face, Flinstone Slab, etc.
The gear lists are more detailed.
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Fluid
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 30, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
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Thanks, Bob, really looking forward to it, I always enjoy your work, the guidebooks and routes both.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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Thanks Fluid...it's in the stores now and available at Nomad Ventures.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Nice book, Bob! Couldn't wait for my Amazon preorder once I saw the book at Gear Co Op... so when my Amazon order arrives I'll have two books, haha... I'll probably give one to my son so he can start his collection going. :) Joe
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I bought it;....it has hinterland area, owl rock, and a bunch of stuff not in any other guidebook. This summer, I'm doing stuff I haven't done up there before;...and now I got the goods. If you have the "old" guides.....well;.....best get the latest new info......I also like alternatives to the established classics, which can get crowded on the Sat/Sunday.......time to get busy up in Idyllwild...
Here is Shelby Beardslee a few weeks ago on his birthday climb on Tahquitz..
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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The new book is now available at Nomad Ventures climbing shop in Idyllwild.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
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now shipping from amazon.com with a current price of $16.70
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jun 12, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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Got an email from Amazon today saying my copy has been shipped...looking forward to seeing it!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 12, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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Fat Dad...I did some foraging in that area with a guy named steve mackay back in 75...Steve also called it the Pink Floyd wall
It's interesting how oral history can be pretty accurate. I think that the guy who told me that name also knew Steve Mackey. Never met him but wasn't he the guy who did that old Rubidoux guide?
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 18, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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got my book in the mail over the weekend!
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jun 18, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
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Got mine, Bob! Great job. I love the format and for most folks , it's got everything they'll want to do. I still owe you one for Graceland. I never knew about the tree trick and lead to the first bolts with my knees slapping like castanets(as Largo would say). Sorry to see it didn't make the cut.
Congrats on a very nice guide!
TY
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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Thanks Tony.
That tree at the start of Graceland is dead now, and looks like it might fall down one of these days. Someone added a bolt to the start so you no longer need to use the tree for any protection shenanigans. Must have been scary without the tree and without the bolt!
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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Jun 19, 2013 - 01:30am PT
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Got mine recently too. Just what I always wanted! Nice work!
Eric
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jun 19, 2013 - 10:45am PT
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Just ordered one new for $14. Looking forward to receiving it!
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Jun 19, 2013 - 11:00am PT
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Nice job on the book. So stoked I booked a cabin and will soon be sliping down the slide for the first time since late 70s :-)
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jun 19, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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What a blessing it was to have those crags growing up, with all those FFAs to do, on such perfect rock, in such a great setting, with such an iconic history. Because of the hike and the trad scheme common back then the place, combined with all the pure crack climbking out at Josh, was the perfect training ground for the trad monster of the 70s and 80s. After a good winter at Tahquitz and Josh we could go up to the Valley and crush it.
One of the most interesting articles we might ever see would be for a new hotshot to go back and climb those routes in pre-EB shoes like Robbins boots or PAs.
Nice effort Brother Gaines!
JL
One of these dudes could do the old stuff in the old shoes, and on that hangs a story . . .
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jun 20, 2013 - 10:23am PT
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I got my copies yesterday (two: one to use and one to keep pristine).
Thanks, Bob, it's beautiful. I especially liked the treatment of the newer/obscure stuff east of Tahquitz - I've walked under lots of that and wondered many times.
Oh yeah, thanks too for a crappy night's sleep. I stayed up reading the book until after midnight...
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